02 - Approaches to Luxury Flashcards
approaches to the concept of luxury
original definition
traditional definition
luxury as a distance
luxury as the creator’s light
luxury as a social marker
new luxury paradigm
original definition
luxus = excess (mindless consumption)
- criticizing luxury consumption (roots in Ancient Greece, ex: Plato)
-> now echoed by economists + sustainable development advocates
- ex: Alexandria Cortez ‘tax the rich’ @ the met
traditional definition
relies on:
- physical rarity of the offer (qualified labor + scarcity of constituents)
- multisensory
- strong human content/origin
luxury as a distance
luxatio = distance
- expresses the gap between desire + access
-> the greater the inaccessibility, the greater the desire
-> combining high awareness + artificial rarity
luxury as the creator’s light
lux = light
- brand expresses the aura/light of the creator
-> legitimizing the aura !
luxury as the creator’s light: creator’s pyramid
creator
unique creation
luxury
upper-range
licenses/accessories
-> investments are necessary to feed the dream/light around the brand
methods of legitimizing the aura
- mythologizing the founders
- flagship stores
- artification (LV x Yayoi Kusama)
- political, environmental + social engagement
- natural or spiritual lineage
- iconization of certain products
luxury as a social marker
sense of social elevation/status
- reflect ‘level of life’
-> realities differ in the Western vs Eastern World
Western vs Eastern World
Western = social differentiator
- sense of differentiation
- unknown luxury brand = elite culture
- increasing penetration of a brand dilutes luxury feeling
Eastern = social marker
- reinforces sense of belonging
- unknown luxury brand = taking a risk
- fame of mega brands is reassuring from a face-saving perspective (ex: LV work bag in Tokyo)
new luxury paradigm (
substance (individual function)
- pleasure/experience
symbol (social function)
- social statement (high or low profile)
high vs low profile social statements
high-profile: luxury for others
- be part of a few who can ‘access’
low-profile: minimalism
- doubt legitimacy of logos
new luxury paradigm: new trends
new way to express luxury as social statement:
- logo-driven luxury (high profile)
- responsible luxury (high + low profile)
+ new virtual environments to express luxury
responsible luxury
preference for slow fashion + degrowth
- guilt free luxury (ex: Tesla)
-> engagement should be: tangible, demonstrable + verifiable
logo-driven luxury
fuelled by younger gens (Z/Y/millenials)
+ Chinese consumers
- powered by LV + Gucci
new virtual environments to express luxury as a social statement
since covid:
- status should be visible in virtual environments
- substance losing importance (simply post on insta)
-> Gucci virtual sneakers, metabirkin