Woven Fabrics Flashcards
Shuttle weaving machine, weaving system
Woven fabric consists of sets of yarns interlaced at right angles to each other. Weaving is done on a loom. The long threads, also called the warp yarns, lengthwise yarns or ends, are kept stretched and under tension, usually between a warp beam and a cloth beam. These warp yarns are spread, some up and some down to form an opening or shed. This is done with heddles; wire or metal strips with an eye in the centre through which the warp yarns are threaded. The harness is a frame that holds the heddles in position. A loom must have at least two harnesses, but may have up to 32.
The filling yarn, also known as the weft yarn, crosswise yarn, woof or picks, is wound on to a bobbin placed into a shuttle.
This shuttle is then moved through the opening or shed. The filling yarn has now been placed over some and under other warp yarns. It is then pushed firmly into place against the previously inserted filling yarn with a comb-like device called a reed or a batten.
Before the next filling thread can be laid, the shed must first be changed. Those warp threads that were raised and under which the shuttle passed, must be lowered, while the warp threads over which the shuttle passed must be lifted, thus creating a new shed.
Shuttleless weaving machines were invented to
increase the weaving speed, and to lower noise levels.
The weight of a fabric is an important property.
It is used to determine if the fabric is suitable for a particular end use. The weight of a fabric is often given in grams per square meter.
Very light weight
Net curtains, sheer blouse, gauze, mosquito netting
Light weight
Lining, summer dress, shirt, blouse, summer pyjamas
Medium weight
Summer suit, slacks, table cloth, light weight jacket
Heavy weight
Light weight coat, winter suit, work clothes, towelling
Very heavy weight
Winter coat, heavy sweater, heavy canvas
Plain weave
Plain weave is the simplest and also the least expensive weave type. The weft threads pass over and under one warp thread alternately. Plain weave fabrics are more snag resistant but wrinkle more, and have a lower tear strength compared to the other basic weaves. The two sides of the fabric look the same there is thus no difference between the face or back of the fabric.
Plain weave fabrics
generally vary from very light weight to medium weight and they are used for a wide variety of products; the actual end use, as with all fabrics, depending of the type of fibre and type of yarns used to produce it.
End uses: Plain Weave
End uses include blouses, dresses, fancy dress costumes, handkerchiefs, leisure wear, lingerie, pants, shirts, summer sportswear, sample garments, curtains, interfacings, furniture coverings, household textiles, sheets, mattress coverings, polishing cloths, decoration.
Examples of cloth: Plain Weave
Examples of cloth woven in plain weave are muslin, percale, calico, cheesecloth, gingham, batiste, lawn, organdy, handkerchief linen and chiffon.
Variations of plain weave include:
Basket weave
Basket weave is a type of plain weave with two or more warp yarns interlaced as a unit with two or more filling yarns.
Light weight basket weave fabrics
are used for shirts and the heavy weight and coarse weaves for blazers, informal suits, curtains, drapes, furniture covers and upholstery.
Examples of Basket weave
monk’s cloth, Hardanger cloth, Oxford cloth and hopsack.
Variations of plain weave include:
Rib or cord weave
This is also a variation of plain weave. Heavy yarns are used in either the warp or filling direction, or by grouping yarns in specific areas of the warp or filling, or by having more warp yarns than filling.
Rib or cord weave: The light weight and medium weight fabrics used for
The light weight and medium weight fabrics are often used for blouses, coats and evening coats, dresses and formal dresses, graduation gowns, golf jackets, pyjamas, raincoats, shirts, trousers (casual), facing and linings, quilts, ribbons and upholstery. Heavy weight fabrics are used for trousers, work wear and upholstery.
Examples of Rib or cord weave
Examples are broadcloth, poplin, faille, bengaline, grosgrain, dimity and Bedford cloth.
Twill weave fabrics
Twill weave fabrics are characterised by a diagonal line on the surface of the fabric. The yarns in twill fabrics are usually tightly packed, producing a strong and durable cloth. They are more expensive to produce than plain weaves. Twill weaves are more wrinkle resistant, more resistant to soiling and showing soil, heavier, and have a more pliable drape and hand compared to plain weave fabrics. They are, however, more prone to ravelling. The prominence of the twill line depends to some extent on the length over which the yarns “float” across each other. Twill fabrics have either a left- or right-hand diagonal and they can be weft-faced (more weft yarns floating on the face), warp-faced (more warp yarns floating on the face) or balanced (warp and weft equally prominent). In the simplest twill weave, the filling crosses over two warp yarns and then under one, over two, under one, and so on. In the next row, the sequence begins one yarn further on. There are a number of types of twill weaves, herringbone twill being one of them.
Twill weave fabrics
Twill weave fabrics are generally light to medium weight and they find use in blouses, dresses and fancy dresses, head squares, leisure wear, pockets, protective clothing, rainwear, scarves, skirts, sneakers, suits, trousers, uniforms, furnishings and upholstery. Tweeds can be medium to heavy weight and are used for suits and coats.
