Woven Fabrics Flashcards
Shuttle weaving machine, weaving system
Woven fabric consists of sets of yarns interlaced at right angles to each other. Weaving is done on a loom. The long threads, also called the warp yarns, lengthwise yarns or ends, are kept stretched and under tension, usually between a warp beam and a cloth beam. These warp yarns are spread, some up and some down to form an opening or shed. This is done with heddles; wire or metal strips with an eye in the centre through which the warp yarns are threaded. The harness is a frame that holds the heddles in position. A loom must have at least two harnesses, but may have up to 32.
The filling yarn, also known as the weft yarn, crosswise yarn, woof or picks, is wound on to a bobbin placed into a shuttle.
This shuttle is then moved through the opening or shed. The filling yarn has now been placed over some and under other warp yarns. It is then pushed firmly into place against the previously inserted filling yarn with a comb-like device called a reed or a batten.
Before the next filling thread can be laid, the shed must first be changed. Those warp threads that were raised and under which the shuttle passed, must be lowered, while the warp threads over which the shuttle passed must be lifted, thus creating a new shed.
Shuttleless weaving machines were invented to
increase the weaving speed, and to lower noise levels.
The weight of a fabric is an important property.
It is used to determine if the fabric is suitable for a particular end use. The weight of a fabric is often given in grams per square meter.
Very light weight
Net curtains, sheer blouse, gauze, mosquito netting
Light weight
Lining, summer dress, shirt, blouse, summer pyjamas
Medium weight
Summer suit, slacks, table cloth, light weight jacket
Heavy weight
Light weight coat, winter suit, work clothes, towelling
Very heavy weight
Winter coat, heavy sweater, heavy canvas
Plain weave
Plain weave is the simplest and also the least expensive weave type. The weft threads pass over and under one warp thread alternately. Plain weave fabrics are more snag resistant but wrinkle more, and have a lower tear strength compared to the other basic weaves. The two sides of the fabric look the same there is thus no difference between the face or back of the fabric.
Plain weave fabrics
generally vary from very light weight to medium weight and they are used for a wide variety of products; the actual end use, as with all fabrics, depending of the type of fibre and type of yarns used to produce it.
End uses: Plain Weave
End uses include blouses, dresses, fancy dress costumes, handkerchiefs, leisure wear, lingerie, pants, shirts, summer sportswear, sample garments, curtains, interfacings, furniture coverings, household textiles, sheets, mattress coverings, polishing cloths, decoration.
Examples of cloth: Plain Weave
Examples of cloth woven in plain weave are muslin, percale, calico, cheesecloth, gingham, batiste, lawn, organdy, handkerchief linen and chiffon.
Variations of plain weave include:
Basket weave
Basket weave is a type of plain weave with two or more warp yarns interlaced as a unit with two or more filling yarns.
Light weight basket weave fabrics
are used for shirts and the heavy weight and coarse weaves for blazers, informal suits, curtains, drapes, furniture covers and upholstery.
Examples of Basket weave
monk’s cloth, Hardanger cloth, Oxford cloth and hopsack.
Variations of plain weave include:
Rib or cord weave
This is also a variation of plain weave. Heavy yarns are used in either the warp or filling direction, or by grouping yarns in specific areas of the warp or filling, or by having more warp yarns than filling.
Rib or cord weave: The light weight and medium weight fabrics used for
The light weight and medium weight fabrics are often used for blouses, coats and evening coats, dresses and formal dresses, graduation gowns, golf jackets, pyjamas, raincoats, shirts, trousers (casual), facing and linings, quilts, ribbons and upholstery. Heavy weight fabrics are used for trousers, work wear and upholstery.
Examples of Rib or cord weave
Examples are broadcloth, poplin, faille, bengaline, grosgrain, dimity and Bedford cloth.
Twill weave fabrics
Twill weave fabrics are characterised by a diagonal line on the surface of the fabric. The yarns in twill fabrics are usually tightly packed, producing a strong and durable cloth. They are more expensive to produce than plain weaves. Twill weaves are more wrinkle resistant, more resistant to soiling and showing soil, heavier, and have a more pliable drape and hand compared to plain weave fabrics. They are, however, more prone to ravelling. The prominence of the twill line depends to some extent on the length over which the yarns “float” across each other. Twill fabrics have either a left- or right-hand diagonal and they can be weft-faced (more weft yarns floating on the face), warp-faced (more warp yarns floating on the face) or balanced (warp and weft equally prominent). In the simplest twill weave, the filling crosses over two warp yarns and then under one, over two, under one, and so on. In the next row, the sequence begins one yarn further on. There are a number of types of twill weaves, herringbone twill being one of them.
Twill weave fabrics
Twill weave fabrics are generally light to medium weight and they find use in blouses, dresses and fancy dresses, head squares, leisure wear, pockets, protective clothing, rainwear, scarves, skirts, sneakers, suits, trousers, uniforms, furnishings and upholstery. Tweeds can be medium to heavy weight and are used for suits and coats.
Examples of twill weave are
chino, drill, denim, gabardine, serge, surah, wool sharkskin, some flannels and some tweeds.
Satin weave
Satin weave fabrics have long floats on the surface. A float is a portion of a warp yarn that extends over two or more adjacent filling yarns. These long floats reflect light and create a shiny and smooth appearance. Satin fabrics are also frequently used as lining fabrics as they easily slip over other fabrics. Satin fabrics are not as durable as plain or twill weaves because the floats are easily snagged.
Satin weave fabric
Satin weave fabric come in various weights and their uses include dresses and fancy dresses, jackets, pants, heavy shirts, shoe uppers, trousers, work uniforms, curtain linings and linings.
Examples of satin weaves
Examples of satin weaves are antique satin, slipper satin, bridal satin, sateen and moleskin. A satin is a warp-faced fabric, whereas sateen is a weft-faced fabric. Note that one warp yarn can cross as many as seven adjacent weft yarns in satin weave, but only two in twill weave. Moleskin has a suede look on the face.
Dobby weaves
Dobby weaves have small designs, such as dots or geometric patterns. The designs are angular and repetitive; even floral designs appear geometric. A dobby loom can have as many as 24 to 40 harnesses. Dobby designs are always small and do not make use of long floats.
Dobby weaves fabrics
Dobby weaves are generally medium weight fabrics and they are used for blouses, bonnets, dresses, children’s and women’s wear, vests, collars, cuffs or as decoration.
Examples of dobby weave
Examples of dobby weave are birdseye, huckaback and piqué.
Jacquard weave
Fabrics such as damask, brocatelle and brocade, which have highly complicated woven designs, are woven on Jacquard looms. The Jacquard mechanism (named after its inventor, the Frenchman Joseph Jacquard) can lift one or more warp yarns independently of the others. The pattern to be woven is punched out on cards, reminiscent of computer punch cards or the cards used for machine knitting. Today the Jacquard loom is controlled by computer and not by cards. Bear in mind that a Jacquard fabric does not have holes in it; the holes are in the cards which control which warp yarn will be lifted.
Jacquard weave: Note the differences between brocade and damask.
Damask is a reversible fabric with a figured design on a satin weave background, usually only in one colour. It is flatter than brocade. Brocade has a more prominent, raised design on the front with the coloured yarns not being used carried as long floats on the back of the fabric. Brocade, unlike damask, has only one right side.
Jacquard weave: Tapestry
Tapestry like fabrics are also made on Jacquard machines. These fabrics have highly patterned designs on the face with the same designs, but in a different colour, on the back.
Leno or gauze weave
In leno weave, pairs of warp yarns are twisted around each other between filling yarns.
Leno weaves are generally light weight and are used for ties and curtains.
Examples are grenadine, marquisette and interlock embroidery canvass.
A pile weave
A pile weave fabric has an extra set of warp or weft yarns interlaced with the ground warp and weft in such a way that loops or cut ends stand up densely on the surface of the fabric. Note that weaving is not the only way in which a pile fabric can be created. It can also be done by tufting, knitting or sew-knitting, but then we cannot talk of pile weaving.
A pile weave fabrics
In some pile fabrics (weft-pile), such as velveteen and corduroy, an extra set of weft yarns floats over three or more warp yarns. After the fabric has been woven, these floats are cut and brushed to form a pile. In other pile fabrics (warp-pile) such as velvet, velour and Wilton and Axminster rugs, the pile is formed from an additional set of warp yarns. Warp pile fabrics can be made by any one of three methods: (1) the wire-cut pile method, (2) the looped pile or terry cloth method, or (3) the double-weave method.
Pile weaves are used for
Pile weave fabrics can be produced in a range of weights. They are used for dresses, jackets, robes, skirts, suits, sportswear, trousers, home furnishings, towels, drapes and upholstery.
Double weave fabrics
Double weave fabrics consist of two sets of warp yarns, two sets of weft yarns, and sometimes, a fifth set of yarns that hold the two layers together. Warp-pile fabrics such as velvet are often constructed as a double weave fabric.
Plain: Advantages
Simple, less expensive to produce, more snag resistant
Plain: Disadvantages
Wrinkle more, lower tear strength
Twill Advantages
Strong, durable, more wrinkle resistant, more resistant to soiling and showing soil, heavier, more pliable drape and hand
Twill Disadvantages
More expensive to produce, prone to ravelling
Satin Advantages
Shiny, smooth appearance, easily slip over other fabrics
Satin Disadvantages
Less durable because the floats are easily snagged
Plain Fabric example
muslin, percale, calico, cheesecloth, gingham, batiste, lawn, organdy, handkerchief linen and chiffon
Basket Fabric example
monk’s cloth, Hardanger cloth, Oxford cloth and hopsack
Rib Fabric example
broadcloth, poplin, faille, bengaline, grosgrain, dimity and Bedford cloth
Satin Fabric example
antique satin, slipper satin, bridal satin, sateen and moleskin
Twill Fabric example
chino, drill, denim, gabardine, serge, surah, wool sharkskin, some flannel and some tweeds
Dobby Fabric example
birdseye, huckaback and piqué
Jacquard Fabric example
damask, brocatelle and brocade
Leno Fabric example
grenadine, marquisette and interlock embroidery canvass
Pile Fabric example
Velveteen, corduroy velvet, velour and Wilton and Axminster rugs
Double Fabric example
Velvet
