What Is A Coastal System? Flashcards
0
Q
Crest
A
Highest point of the wave
1
Q
What are waves?
A
Transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the surface of the sea
As wind strength increases, so does the size and drag of the wave
2
Q
Trough
A
Lowest point of the wave
3
Q
Wave height
A
Distance between crest and trough
4
Q
Wave period
A
Time taken for a wave to travel through one wave length
5
Q
Wave length
A
Distance between two successive crests
6
Q
Wave velocity
A
Speed of movement of a crest
7
Q
Wave steepness
A
Ratio of wave height to wave length
8
Q
Constructive waves
A
Long fetch distance Small waves Flat and long Low frequency Weak backwash = no transportation of sediment
9
Q
Destructive waves
A
Short fetch distance Large waves Steep and short Hugh frequency Powerful backwash = transportation of sediment
10
Q
Tides
A
Controlled by the moon and rotation of the earth
As the moon pulls water to the side of the earth nearest to it, high tide is created
The intervening areas repel water and low tide is experienced
Tidal cycle is 12 hours 25 minutes
