Weft knit structures

Question 1

Which is the most cost effective knit and why?

Answer 1

-Plain as it uses the least yarn and least machine time

Question 2

Why does plain knit require little machine time?

Answer 2

It only uses one set of needles, as sinkers oppose the needles movements and provide tension for knitting.
All needles knit at each contact with the cam.

Question 3

What are a plain knits two main visual features?

Answer 3

• face loops on one side

- reverse loops on other

Question 4

What are the advantages of a plain knit?

Answer 4

• stretches more in width than in length, meaning it doesn’t grow with use but does allow comfort through width stretching
• used for light weight applications
• easy/ cheap to produce with stripes

Question 5

What are disadvantages of plain knits?

Answer 5

• can be unravelled from both ends

- one dropped stitch makes laddering easy

Question 6

What are plain knits used for?

Answer 6

• most widely used structure in apparel
• hosiery such as everyday knickers and boxers
• most common structure for standard t-shirts and classic jumpers
• common in children’s wear, sportswear, and general clothing

Question 7

Which knit structures require 2 needle beds?

Answer 7

Rib, interlock and purl

Question 8

Why are rib/interlock/purl knits referred to as ‘double jersey’ or double knit?

Answer 8

Because they use two needle beds

Question 9

How are rib/interlock/purl different to plain knit?

Answer 9

They are bulkier, harder to sew, more expensive

Question 10

How are rib fabrics knitted?

Answer 10

On the same needles at every course, forming columns of loops

Question 11

In rib knits, what is a wale and what is it made out of?

Answer 11

-wale is a column of stitches, made from a single loop type

Question 12

In rib knit, what is a course and what is it made of?

Answer 12

A course is a row composed of both face and reverse loops

Question 13

In rib structures and names, what do each of the numbers refer to? For example, a 2x2 rib?

Answer 13

First number refers to the number for Front Bed Needles

The second number to Back Bed Needles

Question 14

What are rib knits commonly used for?

Answer 14

-knitwear for cuffs and waistbands as well as entire garments

Question 15

What are the disadvantages of rib knits?

Answer 15

• more expensive than plain knit (use more yarn + longer time to make)
• require two needle beds
• can be unravelled from the end knitted last

Question 16

What are the advantages of rib knit?

Answer 16

• easy to cut and sew because they don’t curl at the edges like a plain knit
• reverse is identical to face
• high stretch in width direction making them comfy
• can be patterned

Question 17

How are interlock knits made?

Answer 17

Knitted on two beds same way as ribs except instead of the needle beds being in rib gating, they are in interlock gating, where the needles directly face each other. This means you can only knit on alternate needles

Question 18

What is the downside with knitting on alternate needles to create an interlock knit?

Answer 18

More expensive to produce as you have to knit two courses to create one complete course of stitches

Question 19

How are the advantages of using interlock?

Answer 19

More stable than rib fabrics

Question 20

What are interlock knits used for?

Answer 20

Good quality t shirts, jogging trousers, other apparel

Question 21

What are purl knits known for? What are they used for?

Answer 21

• known for interesting surface texture
• not always in fashion, used in knitwear and occasionally jersey products
• also known to curl at edges

Question 22

What determines a specific purl structure?

Answer 22

The arrangement of Wales made from both types of loops