Week 11 Quiz Flashcards
Define muslin
unbleached plain-woven cotton fabric used for testing patterns
Define selvage
narrow, firmly woven strip on both edges of fabric
Define fabric width
measured from selvage to selvage
Define swatch
small piece of fabric representing fabric to be used
Define grain
the direction of threads in fabric
how many grains are there, and what are they?
There are 3…
Lengthwise (parallel to the selvage) (most stable)
Crosswise (perpendicular to selvage)
Pattern grainline arrow (parallel to selvage edge)
Define flat pattern
patterns that are drafted flat on the table
Define notches
symbols used to indicate seams and style lines on patterns
Name the two types of industrial machines we use in class
- Lockstitch machine- bobbin & bobbin case
2. Serger/ Overstitch machine- looper and spreader
Define stitch depth
distance between the upper and lower surface of stitch
what is SPI?
Stitches per inch
What does a high SPI mean?
short stitches
How is thread tension controlled?
by adjusting the pressure on tension disks
Define seam
formed when 2 or more pieces of fabric are joined together
How many dimensions do seams have? What are they?
they have 3…
Length- total distance covered by a series of stitches
Depth- thickness/compressibility of a seam
Width- depend on type of seam
Define seamline
stitches line of a seam, always a specific distance from the raw edge
Define seam allowance
distance between seam line and the cut edge of fabric
When is the plain seam used?
used on lined garments where there is minimum fraying of edges (pressing seam allowance open reduces bulk)
When is the serged seam used?
used on unlined garments for no fraying
When is the french seam used?
used on better quality, lightweight fabrics (not recommended for curves)
When is the flat-felled seam used?
common on jeans and workwear (very strong and bulky
Define seam heading
distance from folded edge to the first row of stitches
When is the clean finished hem used
edge finish- not used to form a structural seam
used to finish raw edges
What are the 4 seam classes?
- superimposed
- lapped
- bound
- flat
What are superimposed seams?
2 or more pieces of fabric joined with seam allowance- one-piece superimposed over the other
most common seam class: includes
- french
- plain
- serged
What is a lapped seam?
2 or more pieces of fabric joined by overlapping
ex. Flat felled seam
What is a bound seam?
Formed by 1 piece of fabric, or by binding or wrapping the edge of another fabric
What us a flat seam?
seam formed by sewing 2 butted pieces of fabric, not overlapping (used when attaching lace)
What are the two stitching classes? Define
BOTH ARE NOT USED TO FORM STRUCTURAL SEAM)
- Edge finishing- stitching that encompasses a cut edge
ex. clean finished hem - Ornamental stitching- used for decoration
What are the 6 classes of stitches?
Class 101- single thread chain stitch (unravels easily)
Class 103- single thread blind stitch (for hems)
Class 205- running stitch (often by hand)
Class 301- lockstitch (regular straight stitch)
Class 504- seaming knits (serger)
