Week 11 Quiz

Question 1

Define muslin

Answer 1

unbleached plain-woven cotton fabric used for testing patterns

Question 2

Define selvage

Answer 2

narrow, firmly woven strip on both edges of fabric

Question 3

Define fabric width

Answer 3

measured from selvage to selvage

Question 4

Define swatch

Answer 4

small piece of fabric representing fabric to be used

Question 5

Define grain

Answer 5

the direction of threads in fabric

Question 6

how many grains are there, and what are they?

Answer 6

There are 3…
Lengthwise (parallel to the selvage) (most stable)
Crosswise (perpendicular to selvage)
Pattern grainline arrow (parallel to selvage edge)

Question 7

Define flat pattern

Answer 7

patterns that are drafted flat on the table

Question 8

Define notches

Answer 8

symbols used to indicate seams and style lines on patterns

Question 9

Name the two types of industrial machines we use in class

Answer 9

1. Lockstitch machine- bobbin & bobbin case

2. Serger/ Overstitch machine- looper and spreader

Question 10

Define stitch depth

Answer 10

distance between the upper and lower surface of stitch

Question 11

what is SPI?

Answer 11

Stitches per inch

Question 12

What does a high SPI mean?

Answer 12

short stitches

Question 13

How is thread tension controlled?

Answer 13

by adjusting the pressure on tension disks

Question 14

Define seam

Answer 14

formed when 2 or more pieces of fabric are joined together

Question 15

How many dimensions do seams have? What are they?

Answer 15

they have 3…
Length- total distance covered by a series of stitches
Depth- thickness/compressibility of a seam
Width- depend on type of seam

Question 16

Define seamline

Answer 16

stitches line of a seam, always a specific distance from the raw edge

Question 17

Define seam allowance

Answer 17

distance between seam line and the cut edge of fabric

Question 18

When is the plain seam used?

Answer 18

used on lined garments where there is minimum fraying of edges (pressing seam allowance open reduces bulk)

Question 19

When is the serged seam used?

Answer 19

used on unlined garments for no fraying

Question 20

When is the french seam used?

Answer 20

used on better quality, lightweight fabrics (not recommended for curves)

Question 21

When is the flat-felled seam used?

Answer 21

common on jeans and workwear (very strong and bulky

Question 22

Define seam heading

Answer 22

distance from folded edge to the first row of stitches

Question 23

When is the clean finished hem used

Answer 23

edge finish- not used to form a structural seam

used to finish raw edges

Question 24

What are the 4 seam classes?

Answer 24

1. superimposed
2. lapped
3. bound
4. flat

Question 25

What are superimposed seams?

Answer 25

2 or more pieces of fabric joined with seam allowance- one-piece superimposed over the other

most common seam class: includes

• french
• plain
• serged

Question 26

What is a lapped seam?

Answer 26

2 or more pieces of fabric joined by overlapping

ex. Flat felled seam

Question 27

What is a bound seam?

Answer 27

Formed by 1 piece of fabric, or by binding or wrapping the edge of another fabric

Question 28

What us a flat seam?

Answer 28

seam formed by sewing 2 butted pieces of fabric, not overlapping (used when attaching lace)

Question 29

What are the two stitching classes? Define

Answer 29

BOTH ARE NOT USED TO FORM STRUCTURAL SEAM)

1. Edge finishing- stitching that encompasses a cut edge
   ex. clean finished hem
2. Ornamental stitching- used for decoration

Question 30

What are the 6 classes of stitches?

Answer 30

Class 101- single thread chain stitch (unravels easily)
Class 103- single thread blind stitch (for hems)
Class 205- running stitch (often by hand)
Class 301- lockstitch (regular straight stitch)
Class 504- seaming knits (serger)