WAVES Flashcards
1
Q
wave length
A
distance from crest to crest
2
Q
wave height
A
trough to crest
3
Q
wave steepness
A
ratio between height and length
4
Q
wave energy
A
length X height^2
5
Q
wave power
A
energy X velocity
6
Q
wave period
A
average time between waves
7
Q
swash time
A
interval between break and swash teaching it’s highest point
8
Q
waves breaking
A
- wave becomes more elliptical in movement
- friction slows down base of wave
- crest of wave tides as it moves forward,velocity and wave length decrease
- wave steepens until it reaches a ratio of 1:7
- water rushes up the beaches as swash
- water from previous wave returns as backwash
9
Q
constructive waves are
A
flat
10
Q
destructive waves are
A
steep
11
Q
constructive waves have a strong
A
swash
12
Q
constructive waves have a weak
A
backwash
13
Q
destructive waves have a strong
A
backwash
14
Q
destructive waves have a weak
A
swash
15
Q
constructive waves height and length apart
A
<1m and 100m
16
Q
destructive waves height and length apart
A
> 1m and 20m
17
Q
constructive wave frequency
A
6-8 per min
18
Q
destructive wave frequency
A
10-14 per min
19
Q
effects of constructive waves
A
steeper gradient of beach
more deposition
