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MS 101 LE 2 > Waves > Flashcards

Waves Flashcards

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1
Q

A disturbance or oscillation that travels to a matter or space accompanies by a transfer of energy. Can carry energy from one place to another, as a medium they are like a harmonic oscillator, they require a “restoring force” and inertia.

A

Waves

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2
Q

Propagate along a surface or interface

A

Surface Waves

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3
Q

Caused by energy passing through the water, causing the water to move in a circular motion. A progression of energy from one point to another and does no move forward, only the energy in it progresses.

A

Waves

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4
Q

Visual proof of the transmission of energy across the surface of the ocean.

A

Ocean Waves

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5
Q

Anatomy of a Wave:
- Highest point in the wave
- Lowest point in the wave
- Vertical distance between the wave crest and the wave trough
- Water displacement from its undisturbed state. Always one-half the wave height (at least for a symmetric wave).
- Distance from one crest to the next crest or from one trough to the next trough.

A
  • Crest
  • Trough
  • Wave Height
  • Wave Amplitude
  • Wavelength
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6
Q

Defined as wave height divided by wavelength (S = H/L). Therefore, the same wave height will result in high steepness if the wavelength becomes smaller.

A

Wave Steepness

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7
Q

Number of wave crests passing point A, each second.

A

Wave Frequency

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8
Q

Time Required for the wave crest at point A to reach point B

A

Wave Period

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9
Q

Half of the wave height

A

Amplitude

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10
Q

Waveheight divided by wavelength (H/L)

A

Steepness

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11
Q

Causes waves to form

A

Disturbing Force

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12
Q

Interface of Fluids with Different Densities:
- Air-ocean interface
- Air-air interface
- Water-water interface

A
  • Ocean Waves
  • Atmospheric Waves
  • Internal Waves
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13
Q

Acts on a water particle displaced from its equilibrium position

A

Restoring Force

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14
Q

Type of Wave:
- <1 Second, <2 Cm
- 1-10 Sec, 1-10 m
- 10-30 Sec, up to 100 m
- 5-90 minutes, 20 km to 300+ km

A
  • Capillary or Ripple
  • Chop
  • Swell
  • Tsunami
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15
Q

Source of Types of Waves:

A
  • Winds
  • Gravity (Tides)
  • Discontinuity in Ocean Surface
    *Earthquake (Tsunamis)
    *Landslides
    *Rain Drops
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16
Q

Most Ocean Waves Generated by Winds:
- Ripples, Wind generates initial stress on sea surface
- More energy transferred to ocean, Trochoidal waveform as crests become pointed
- Any wave that has moved out of its wind generation source region

A
  • Capillary Waves
  • Gravity Waves
  • Swell
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17
Q

Wave size depends on the:
- The area over which the wind is blowing
- The speed at which the wind is blowing
- How long the wind has been blowing

A
  • Fetch
  • Wind Velocity
  • Duration
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18
Q

Equilibrium Condition, waves can grow no further

A

Fully Developed Sea

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19
Q

Uniform, symmetrical waves that travel outward from storm area, long crests, transport energy long distances

A

Swell

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20
Q

As waves move beyond ___, wind speed ____ and waves move ____ than wind. Wave Steepness ____ and waves become ______ waves.

A

Fetch, Decreases, Faster, Decreases, Long-Crested

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21
Q

Factors Affecting Wave Energy:
*
*
* Distance over which wind blows

A
  • Wind Speed
  • Wind Duration
  • Fetch
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22
Q

Waves:
Stage 1: ?
Stage 2: ?
Stage 3: ?

A

Capillary Waves (CM Scale)
Wind Waves
Mature Sea - Swell

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23
Q

Directly related to wave energy and is usually less than 2 meters.

A

Wave Height

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24
Q

Breakers called ____ form when wave reaches critical steepness.

A

Whitecaps

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25
Q

Describes appearance of sea surface

A

Beaufort Wind Scale

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26
Q

A standing wave that oscillates back and forth within a water body. Water sloshes back and forth, and the wave decreases in size due to friction as its oscillation tries to reach equilibrium. Most often, generated by a persistent strong wind blowing down the long axis of a large water body. When the wind subsides, the water is released as a _____ wave. Can also be generated by a disturbance such as an earthquake, landslide, wave interaction, changes in air pressure, or changes of wind.

A

Seiche

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27
Q

A Series of long-period waves (on the order of tens of minutes) that are usually generated by an impulsive disturbance that displaces massive amounts of water, such as an earthquake occurring on or near the sea floor. Underwater volcanic eruptions, landslides beginning above the water level, and large pieces of falling ice can also cause a ____. They are seismic sea waves. If it comes from a meteorite impact, can also be called ______.

A

Tsunami, Splash Waves

28
Q
  • Long wavelengths (>200km or 125 miles)
  • Behaves as a shallow-water wave
    • Encompasses entire water column, regardless of ocean depth.
    • Can pass undetected under boats in open ocean
  • Speed proportional to water depth
    • Very fast in open ocean
A

Tsunami

29
Q

Historically where the largest tsunami happened.

A

Nicaragua

30
Q

Uses Seismic wave recordings to forecoast tsunami, coordinates information from 25 Pacific Rim countries, with headquarters in Hawaii

A

Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) - Honolulu, HI

31
Q
  • System of Buoys
  • Detects pulse of tsunami passing
A

Deep Ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART)

32
Q
  • Issued when potential for tsunami exists
  • Unusual wave activity Verified
    • Evacuate People
    • Move ships from harbors into deep waters
A
  • Tsunami Watch
  • Tsunami Warning
33
Q
  • Associated with Pycnocline
  • Larger than surface waves
  • Caused by tides, turbidity currents, winds, ships
  • Possible hazard for submarines
A

Internal Waves

34
Q

Among the largest observed internal waves anywhere in the ocean (location)

A

Luzon Strait

35
Q

Oscillate uniformly and progress without breaking
- (1)
- (2)
- (3)

A

Progressive Waves:
- Longitudinal (1)
- Transverse (2)
- Orbital (3)

36
Q

Also called push-pull waves, compress and decompress as they travel, like a coiled spring. Hands clapping or thumping a table, particles move back and forth in the direction of energy transmission and these waves transmit energy through all states of matter.

A

Longitudinal Waves

37
Q

Also called side-to-side waves, energy travels at right angles to direction of moving particles, generally only transmit through solids, not liquids. A rope attached to a wall, particles move back and forth at right angles to the direction of energy transmission, these waves transmit energy only through solids.

A

Transverse Waves

38
Q

Also called interface waves, waves on ocean surface, combination of progressive and longitudinal waves. The movement of water waves, particles move in a circular path, these waves transmit energy along interface between two fluids of different density (liquids and/or gases).

A

Orbital Waves

39
Q

Water particles move in circle, movement up and down and back and forth.

A

Circular Orbital Motion

40
Q

Orbital Wave Characteristics
- H/L, if it is greater than 1/7, wave breaks
- Time for one wavelength to pass fixed point, range between 6 and 16 sec
- Inverse of period or 1/T

A
  • Wave Steepness
  • Wave Period
  • Wave Frequency
41
Q

Diameter of orbital motion ____ with depth of water. Wave base is equal to ____. The ____ the wave, the ____ the wave base.

A

Decreases, 1/2L, Longer, Deeper

42
Q

Types of waves defined by water depth:

A
  • Deep-water wave
  • Intermediate-water wave
  • Shallow-water wave
43
Q

____ is the velocity of the wave form, not the water. The ____ of a group of waves all travelling at the same speed in the same direction is less than the speed of the waves within the group. Has the equation: C = L/T

A

Celerity

44
Q

Depth where orbital movement of water particles stops. If water depth is greater than wave base (>=1/2 L), wave is a _______. Lack of orbital motion at depth useful for floating runways and other structures.

A

Wave Base, Deep Water Wave

45
Q

Wavelength (L) / Period (T)
Speed is called ____. It is proportional to wavelength. For _____, long waves are fast waves.

A

Wave Speed, Celerity, Deep-water waves

46
Q

The ____ the wavelength, the ____ the speed.

A

Longer, Faster

47
Q

Water depth is <= (1/20L), ____ is proportional to depth of water. For ______, the _____, the _____ the wave.

A

Shallow-water waves, Celerity, Shallow-water waves, Deeper, Faster

48
Q

Characteristics of both deep and shallow-water waves. ____ Depends on both water depth and wavelength.

A

Transitional Waves, Celerity

49
Q

Waves in ______ are large because of prevailing _____.

A

Southern Hemisphere, Westerlies

50
Q

Collision of two or more wave systems

A

Wave Interference

51
Q

In-phase wave trains with about the same wavelengths

A

Constructive Interference

52
Q

Out-of-phase wave trains with about the same wavelengths

A

Destructive Interference

53
Q

Two swells with different wavelengths and different wave heights

A

Mixed interference

54
Q

Difficult to forecast
Occur more near weather fronts and downwind of islands
Strong ocean currents amplify opposing Swells
Also called superwaves, monster waves, sleeper waves or freak waves.
Crests are mountains of water, troughs are holes in the sea.

A

Rogue Waves

55
Q

Massive, spontaneous, solitary ocean waves and can reach abnormal heights, enormous destructive power

A

Rogue Waves

56
Q

Zone of breaking waves near shore

A

Surf Zone

57
Q

Water becoming gradually more shallow, when deep water waves encounter _____ less than 1/2 their wavelength, they become _____.

A

Shoaling Water, Transitional Waves

58
Q

As a deep water wave becomes a shallow water wave:

A
  • Wave speed decreases
  • Wavelength decreases
  • Wave height increases
  • Wave steepness (Height/Wavelength) increases
  • When steepness >= 1/7, wave breaks
59
Q

Navigators have long known that ______ indicate dangerously shallow water. There could be presence of shallowly submerged obstacle such as coral reef, sunken wreck, or sand bar.

A

Breaking Waves

60
Q
  • Water slides down front slop of wave, wave breaks far from shore, wave energy expended over longer distances
  • Wave curls over forming a tunnel until wave breaks, wave energy expended over shorter distances, best for board surfers
  • Wave doesn’t break until close to shore, rolls onto steep beach, energy expended over shortest distance, “destructive”.
A
  • Spilling Breakers
  • Plunging Breakers
  • Surging Breakers
61
Q
  • Bending of Waves
  • Bouncing back of waves
  • Radiating Outward of waves
A
  • Refraction
  • Reflection
  • Diffraction
62
Q

Wave energy unevenly distributed on shore

A

Wave Refraction

63
Q

_____ or wave rays - drawn perpendicular to wave crests.
- more energy released on headlands, energy more dissipated in bays
- large waves at headlands, area of surfing and erosion
- smaller waves at bays, area for boat anchorage and sediment deposition

A

Orthagonal Lines

64
Q

Gradually erodes headlands, sediment accumulates in bays

A

Wave Refraction

65
Q

Waves and wave energy bounced back from barrier, reflected wave can interfere with next incoming wave, with constructive interference, can create dangerous plunging breakers

A

Wave Reflection

66
Q

Occurs when an object (island) causes a wave to change direction and bend around it. (i.e. Ocean waves change direction as they pass a group of islands)

A

Diffraction

MS 101 LE 2 (4 decks)

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