waves Flashcards

1
Q

how do waves form?

A

wind blowing over the surface of the sea.

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2
Q

what things can determine sizes of the waves?

A

-how strong the wind is
-how long the wind has been blowing
-how far the wave has travelled

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3
Q

what does the moons gravitation pull help create?

A

tides

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4
Q

what does swash mean?

A

the waves washing up onto the shore at an angle due to the wind direction.

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5
Q

what does backwash mean?

A

when the water goes back into the sea after swash vertically.

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6
Q

the direction of backwash is determined by what?

A

gravity.

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7
Q

what are the two types of waves?

A

constructive waves and destructive waves.

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8
Q

constructive waves

A

-strong swash with a weak backwash, pushing the sand up but not taking any away into the sea.
-low wave height and long wave length.
-causes deposition(constructs a beach).
-common in summer.
-low frequency(around 8-10 per min).

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9
Q

destructive waves

A

-weak swash with a very strong backwash taking sand back into the sea.
-high wave height and short wave length.
-erodes(destroys)the coast.
-common in winter.
-high frequency(about 10-14 per min).

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