waves Flashcards

1
Q

How does the wind create waves?

A

Frictional drag

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2
Q

What determines the size and energy of waves?

A

Length of a fetch

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3
Q

Whats a prevailing wind direction?

A

Direction the wind is travelling

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4
Q

Swell waves

A

Low and slow

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5
Q

Storm waves

A

Tall and fast

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6
Q

What movement do waves travel in

A

Orbital

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7
Q

Constructive waves have a … wavelength and … frequency

A

Long
Low

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8
Q

How many waves per minute- constructive

A

8-10

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9
Q

Constructive waves have … swash and … backwash

A

Strong
Weak

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10
Q

How many waves per minute- Destructive

A

10-14

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11
Q

How do destructive waves gain height?

A

When they break

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12
Q

What do destructive waves take away from the beach

A

Sediment and material

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13
Q

How does wave refraction work?

A

Waves break onto an irregularly shaped coastline

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14
Q

What is a tide cycle?

A

Periodic rise and fall of the sea surface produced by gravitational pull

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15
Q

Longshore currents

A

Waves approach the coastline at an angle, this transfers sediment parallel to the shoreline

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16
Q

Rip currents

A

Strong currents moving away from the shoreline as a result of buildup seawater, hazardous for swimmers

17
Q

Warm ocean

A

Currents transfer heat from low latitudes to high latitudes

18
Q

Cold ocean

A

Currents from high to low latitudes

19
Q

Whats a sub-ariel process

A

collective term for weathering and mass movement