Wave Generation + Characteristics Flashcards
1
Q
Why are waves important in coastal environments?
A
- they have the power to shape a coastal envi, creating new landforms + eroding away the beach
2
Q
What are the characteristics of waves?
A
- crest (highest point of wave)
- trough (lowest point of wave)
- wavelength (distance taken for wave to repeat)
- wave height (vertical distance between crest + trough)
3
Q
How are waves formed?
A
- winds move across surface of water, causing frictional drag: creates small ripples + waves leading to circular orbital motion of water particles in ocean
- as seabed becomes shallower towards coastline, orbital of water particles become more elliptical: leads to more horizontal movement of waves
- wave height inc., but wavelength + wave velocity dec.
- causes water to back up from behind wave until wave breaks + surges up beach
4
Q
What 3 factors influence the size and energy of a wave?
A
- strength of wind
- duration of wind
- size of fetch
5
Q
How does the strength of the wind influence the size + energy of a wave?
A
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