Wave formation

Question 1

How are waves formed?

Answer 1

Created by winds blowing over the ocean.
Friction between the wind and the water causes energy to be transferred to the water.

Question 1

What is the fetch - how does it impact waves?

Answer 1

Distance wind travels uninterrupted over the ocean surface to create waves.

Question 2

What factors influence waves - what is the most important and why?

Answer 2

Direction and duration of wind.
Strength of the wind.
Fetch.

Question 3

What are the 4 types of wave?

Answer 3

Capillary wave (a very small ripple - start of a wave)
Gravity wave (slightly larger wave)
Sea wave (larger waves that are found on the sea)
Rogue waves (random large waves).

Question 4

What is wave theory

Answer 4

Wave theory is how waves grow.

Question 5

Outline wave refraction

Answer 5

Waves changing direction as they travel up the shore.

Question 6

What are some differences between constructive and destructive waves (that create high and low energy beaches)

Answer 6

Constructive -
particles move in an elliptical form.
lower frequency (6 to 8 per minute)

Destructive -
Particles move in a circular form (wave has a greater height - travels father up the beach)
Quicker frequency (10-15 per minute)

Question 7

How does wave refraction occur?

Answer 7

Depth of water along a coastline varies
As a wave approaches the coast, progress is modified due to friction from the seabed.
As waves approach coast, his headlands - energy concentrated at headlands, reduced around bays.
Refraction tends to make waves approach the coastline parallel to it - energy decreases as water depth decreases.