Understand the choice of herbaceous perennial plants and 'bulbs for display, and how to grow them Flashcards
Name TEN herbaceous perennial plants suitable for growing in an herbaceous border
- Acanthus spinosus
- Verbena bonariensis
- Alchemilla mollis
- Paper Oriental ‘Picotée’
- Achillea millefolium ‘Terracotta’
- Ajuga reptans
- Anenome x hybrida
- Helleborous x hybridus
- Pachysandra terminalis
- Persicaria affinis
Name FIVE herbaceous perennials suitable for growing in shade and FIVE suitable for use as groundcover
Shade
- Persicaria affinis
- Pachysandra terminalis
- Ajuga reptans
- Alchemilla mollis
- Helleborous x hybridus
Groundcover
- Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’
- Lamium maculatum
- Galium odoratumn
- Geranium clarkei ‘Kashmir White’
- Vinca major
Name FIVE herbaceous perennials suitable for growing in shade and FIVE suitable for use as groundcover
Shade
- Persicaria affinis
- Pachysandra terminalis
- Ajuga reptans
- Alchemilla mollis
- Helleborous x hybridus
Groundcover
- Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’
- Lamium maculatum
- Galium odoratumn
- Geranium clarkei ‘Kashmir White’
- Vinca major
Name TEN bulbs or corms or tubers, of which FOUR should be suitable for growing in a border, FOUR containers, FOUR for naturalising
- Muscari armeniacum (B, N, C)
- Galanthus nivalis (B, N)
- Crocus tommasinianus (B, N, C)
- Narcissus ‘Tête-à-tête’ (B, C)
- Dahlia ‘Bishop of Oxford’ (B, C)
- Anenome nemorosa (B, N)
- Camassia quamash (B, N)
- Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ (B)
- Eranthis hyemalis (B, N)
- Cyclamen hederifolium (N, C)
Describe the soil preparationm planting, routine maintenance and control of weeds, pests and diseases (aphids, slugs and snails, vine weevil, grey mould, powdery mildew, stem or bulb eelworm) required forr growing herbacesous perennials and bulbs, corms and tubers
Soil prepation to include cultivation, addition of organic matter and /or fertiliser.
Planting to cinclude specification (bare root, container grown, planting techniques for herbaceous perennials and bulbs, corms and tubers
Routine maintenance tasks to include support, watering, deadheading, feeding, and renovation by division
Methods of weed crontrol to include physical (hand weeding), chemical (herbicides) and cultural (mulches)
Control of pests and diseases for appropriate situations
Describe soil prepation for herbaceous perennials and bulbs, corms and tubers
As previously described:
DIG
SPRINKLE
FORK
RAKE
WALK
RAKE
When do you plant herbaceous perennials, bare root perennials in borders, and in container grown?
Often planted in mixed borders with trees, shrubs and bulbs - traditionally grown in a herbaceous border
Perennials best planted in spring (March to early May) / or autumn (late September to October), while the ground s moist. / This is especially the case for bare root plants / container-grown - any time as long as not frozen or waterlogged / need to be kept moist
Describe how to plant bare root herbaceous perennials
Usually by mail order / good sized clumps can be planted staight away in the border / smalller clumps of roots should be potted and grown on in a cold frame or sheltered area
- (Assumed soil already prepared) - place bare roots how think should look on the surface - according to spacing instructions - see if happy
- Use a trowel or spade to dig a hole just deep and wide enough to set in the clump - aim to bury just the roots, leaving th base of the stems (when in growth in summer) and/or shoots (in spring) above ground
- Firm back around the soil, using your hand for small clumps and heel for larger ones
- Water well even if ground is moist and water is forecast - settle soils and prevents dessication
Describe how to plant container-grown herbaceous perennials
- Assume soil prepped as previously described
- Arrange the pots on the surface to see what they look like and if you like the position - but according to plant spacing guidelines
- Individually know out each plant from its container / check the roots / if they are circling around the compost it is best to tease them out ( push fingers into rootball along the bottom edge and pull to rip the roots / do in a few places / encourages the roots to spread into surrounding ground
- Use trowel or space to dig a hole just deep and wide enough to set in the rootball - aim to bury just the roots, leaving the bases of the stems or shoots above the ground
- Firm back around the soil, using hand for small clumps and heel for larger ones
- Water well
What is the routine maintenance of herbaceous perennials
Taller plants will need supporting using stakes - do this before the plants need it
Keep them well watered - especially in first year - applying water to roots underneath the foliage /
mulch to conserve water / retain nutrients / prevent annual weeds / improves soil structure / best around April
Feed the plants if the plants appear yellow or the growth is poor with a liquid fertiliser
Deadhead to prolong flowering
Weeding
Cut the plants back - chelsea chop at the end of May - to produce more, smaller blooms later on
Divide plants in the dormant season to rejuvenate the plants -
- cut back the plant and remove dead foliage
- loosen soil from around the roots and gently tease roots apart if possible / split with a spade or saw if the roots are woody or solid fleshy roots
- Remove any weeds or diseased material
- trim back roots if necessary
- replant the younger growth as oppose to the central older pieces
When to plant bulbs, corms and tubers
Pot grown bulbs can be planted any time
Autumn
Spring-flowering bulbs (e.g. daffodils, crocus, hyacinths) should be planted preferably by the end of September
Plant Tulips by November
Plant hardy summer-flowering bulbs (e.g. lillies, alliums, crocosmia) in September and October)
Spring
Plant tender summer-flowering bulbs (e.g. gladioli) in early spring
Summer
Plant autumn-flowering bulbs (e.g. nerines) by later summer
How to plant bulbs, corms and tubers in borders (applies to spring, summer and autumn flowering bulbs)
Plant in groups of 6 at least - the more the better the display
- (Assume soil already prepared) Dig a deep hole or use a bulb planter / Plant most bulbs at two to three times their depth
- Place the bulb in the hole with their ‘nose’ or shoot, facing upwards / space them at least twice the bulb’s own width apart
- Replace the soils and gently firm with the back of a rake / Avoid treading on the soil as this could damage the bulbs
- If ground is moist or the bulbs are autumn-planted, watering is not critical / otherwise water straight after planting
Maintenance of bulbs, corms and tubers
hardy bulbs ar low maintenance especially when grown in the ground - container grown will need more food and watering
Ensure well-watered while in growth and 6 weeks after flowering until the leaves die down
Feed for good flowering next year / every seven to ten days with a high-potassium fertiliser or liquid tomato feed beginning as soon as the shoots appear / stop once foliage starts to die down
Deadhead by cutting of spend flowers at the base of the flower stalk to put energy into the bulb for next year’s display
Cut back foliage 6 weeks after flowering / waiting until it is yellow and straw-like
May need to overwinter hardy bulbs in container if in a colder regions / tender, half-hardy grown in container can be brought indoors over winter / if in mild area could try covering with mulch to insulate and then remove it in spring
Divide the clumps every few years to keep them vigorous and flowering well. This stops them becoming congested which can reduce flowering
Pests for herbaceous plants and bulbs
Diseases for herbaceous perennials and bulbs
