types of waves

Question 1

how is a wave formed?

Answer 1

by wind blowing over the sea

Question 2

how are ripples formed?

Answer 2

friction with the waters surface

Question 3

three things the energy of a wave is determined?

Answer 3

the strength of the wind
duration of the wind
distance of open water which the wind blows (the fetch)

Question 4

define backswash

Answer 4

the retreat of a wave back towards the sea

Question 5

define swash

Answer 5

the forward movement of water up on to a beach as the wave breaks.

Question 6

motion in deep water and how it changes as it becomes more shallow

Answer 6

in deep water, each molecule within a wave moves in a circular motion but as it goes further up the shore water molecules begin to move in an elliptical (rugby ball) shape.

Question 7

characteristics of constructive waves

Answer 7

low waves with long wave lengths and formed by a distant storm. strong swash. water soaks into the beach so they have a weak back swash. builds up the beach.

Question 8

characteristics of destructive waves

Answer 8

higher waves with shorter wavelengths formed by local storms. As they crash down (plunge) on to the beach there is little swash but strong backswash which overtime results in the beach becoming eroded.

Question 9

what waves are usually present in the winter

Answer 9

destructive

Question 10

what waves are usually present in the summer

Answer 10

constructive

Question 11

what makes the waves crash?

Answer 11

as frictional drag with the seabed increases, the base of the waves is slowed down so the top is travelling faster. this causes the wave to tilt, break and move towards the shore in the surf zone