TYPES OF FABRIC Flashcards
- From pulp of bamboo grass
- Anti-bacterial
- Mixed w/ cotton and polyester
Bamboo fabric
- Cotton fabric
- W/ white and contrasting color
Bandana
- Broken rib weave
- Pebbly texture
- Granular texture
- From silk, worsted wool & cotton
- Used in jackets, mens ties & cummerbands
- Made as a mourning cloth
Barathea
- Created to simulate actual bark of tree
- Made from cotton and textured
- Printed w/ large vines, leaves & floral used as draperies, slipcovers etc.
Bark cloth
- Named after Jean Batiste, french linen weaver
- Resembles nainsook, but is finer (cotton) light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric
- For foundation garments & linings
Batiste
- Cotton-like fabric cord w/ raised ridges in lengthwise direction
- Used for upholstery & work clothes
- Warp
Bedford cord
- Sturdy warp-faced fabric
- Pronounced cross-wise ribs
- Originated in Bengal, India
Bengaline
- Made when yarn is brushed w/ wire brush
- End fabric has looped, soft pile w/ large air pockets
- Often compared to fur
Berber Fleece
- Small geometric pattern w/ center dot resembling a bird’s eye
- Woven on dobby loom
- Very soft, lightweight & absorbent
- Also called “diaper cloth”
Birdseye
- French word “buckled”, ringed/ curled
- Named for ringed appearance
- Drawn out loop yarn on the face of goods
- Kinky appearance at intervals
- Used in upholstery & window treatments
- Used by Chanel
Boucle’
- Twill weave from France
- Yarns are interspersed w/ nubs
- Dull, nubbed surface effect
- Made in variety of weights
Bourette
- Tightly woven plain weave w/ crosswise rib
- Originally a silk shirting fabric
- Named, because, woven in widths
- Exceeds usual 29”
- Napped face, closely sheared, polished produce a silky gloss
Broadcloth
- Rich jacquard woven fabric
- Raised figure flowers
- W/ pattern emphasize by contrasting surface/ color
- Design in low relief
- Figures loose compared to Damask
- Named derived from french “ornament”
- Latin word “to figure”
- Heavy fabric, rich raised design
- Used for window treatments/ upholstery
Brocade
-Tightly woven jacquard fabric w/ a wrap effect
- Raised to give puffed appearance
- Heavy fabric, highly raised designs
Brocatelle
- Coarse cotton fabric heavily sized w/ glue
- Used for stiffening garments & book binding
- For interlinings in garments
- Named for Bokhara, southwest USSR, 1st made cheap, low-textured loose weave, very heavily sized & stiff
Buckram
- From jute / hemp
- Used in textiles for interiors, esp. wall hanging
- Used for bagging & wrapping & furniture, linoleum manufacture
Burlap/ Gunny
- Made in solid colors w/c are discharge/ resist printed (use chemical) onto white/ contrasting background
- From Calcutta, India
- Oldest cotton staples on market (inexpensive)
Calico
- Calendered on right side to produce slight glass
- Launders well
- From Cambrai, France
- Similar to batiste but stiffer & fewer slubs
Cambric
- Twill face, w/ soft & loosely twisted filling yarn w/c is brushed to produced a soft nap
- Heavy, warm strong & absorbent
- From Canton, China
- Used in linings & interlinings
Canton Flannel
- Even weave, heavy & firm
- Used for clothing & formerly used for tents & sails “duck”
- Rugged, heavy material from plyed yarns
- Usually manufactured in the grey state but some are dyed for different uses.
Canvass
- Softest fabric made, light weight
- Printed w/ delicate floral pattern, paisley/ geometric pattern & faint design
- Originally silk & wool blend; now can be single fiber
- Named from the Anglo-Indian term “ Shalee” — soft
- From Norwich England in 1832
- For sheer curtain, kimono
Challis
- Made of color warp yarn (often blue) white filling yarn
- Molted, colored surface
- Can be made from cotton, silk/ manufactured fibers; commonly cotton
- Used for shirts, dresses & child’s cloth
Chambray
- Woven from chenille yarns
- Fuzzy pile, piles are protruding from it
- French word “caterpillar”
- Fabric looks hairy
Chenille
- Broken twill/ herringbone weave
- Giving a chevron effect
- Wide vs. across the width of fabric
Chevron
- Thin, diaphanous/ gauze-like, soft, flimsy fabric; but strong despite of filmy look
- Wears very well, difficult to handle
- Best for shirring, draping, gathering, tucking etc. - so limp
- French term for “ rag”
Chiffon
- Glazed cotton fabric often printed w/ bright figured & large flower designs
- From hindu word “spotted”
- Glazed calico textiles, imported from India
- Unglazed are called “cretonne”
- Used in draperies, slipcovers, dresses etc.
- Cath kidston brand used the design
Chintz
- Cut pile cotton cloth
- W/ narrow to wide wales that run in the warp direction good
- Soft luster, washable & wears well
- Durable fabric
- Ridged form of velvet
- Used in jackets, bags, pants, upholstery
Corduroy
- Lightweight fabric
- Crinkly surface
- Produced by hard twist yarns, chemical treatment, weave/ embossing
- Very good wearing qualifies
- Very slim effect
- Depend on weight, used for dresses of all types, long dinner dresses, suits & coats.
Crepe
- Chain stitch embroidery
- Fine, loosely twisted, 2-ply worsted on a plain weave fabric
- Done by hand; in Kashmir province of India and England
- Technique said to be thousand yrs. old
- Design used outlines of flowers, vines & leaves; one/ many colors
Crewel
- Lightweight, stiffened, plain weave
- Low yarn count
- Used as stiffener to garments & drapery hems / puffed sleeves
- Olden day used as peticotes
Crinoline
- W/ an irregular pattern of nap going in different directions
- Crushed/ rumpled appearance
- Looks lustrous
- Produced by pressing fabric down in different directions
- Mechanically twisting the fabric while wet
- Used in beddings
Crushed velvet
- Firm, glossy, jacquard pattern fabric
- Similar to brocade but flatter & reversible
- Produced in monochromatic tones
- Features patterns of flowers, fruit & other design, used in upholstery
- 1st brought to the western world by Marco Polo from Damascus
- One of the oldest, most popular cloth to be found today
- Durable, launders well, holds high luster
Damask
- Rugged, serviceable, staple cotton cloth
- Left hand twill on surface
- Used to make blue jeans, for work clothes
- Warp threads are dyed, where as weft threads remain plain white
- Name derived from french
Denim
- Thin, sheer cloth in w/c cords stripes maybe woven into fabric
- Easy to sew & manipulate
- Launders well
- Crisp texture w/c remains fairly well after washing
- Made of silk / wool
- “Palampore” made in Indian; used as bed coverings
Dimity
- Sheer fabric embellished w/ small dot motifs
- May vary in color
From Saint Galen, Switzerland; 1750
Dotted swiss
- Closely woven heavy fabric
- Most durable according to textile industry
- Heavier weights called “canvas”
- Washable; waterproof; wind proof
Duck
- Ribbed cloth w/ crosswise rib effect
- Soft & belongs to the grosgrain family, but its ribs are flatter than grossgrain
- Difficult to launder
Faille
- Compact, matted woolen material
- Derived from the Anglo-Saxon meaning “to filter”
- From wool & fur, often mixed w/ natural/ synthetic
- Done through heat, moisture, chemicals & pressure
Felt
- Jagged, undulating
- Multi- colored pattern
- Known as “bargello” / florentine stitch
Flame stitch
- Slight nap on both sides
- From carded wool / worsted yarn
- Now, made from wool, cotton/ synthetic fiber
- If one side nap called “ flannelette”
Flannel
- Lightweight cloth, soft finish & feel
- From plain / twill weave
- Printed w/ small figures on dark/ light backgrounds
- Soft, light fabric
- From India
Foulard
- Uncut loops
- Style by shearing the loops at varying heights
- From fries land Holland
- Used overcoating material for soldiers
Frieze
- Firm, durable compactly woven cloth
- Diagonal line on the face
- From worsted finer but can be cotton/ synthetic/ mixed
- Smooth one side; diagonally ribbed
- Named for cloak/ mantle; during middle ages (popular)
- Refer to coarse long loose outer garments worn in medieval times especially the jews
Gabardine
- Thin sheer
- Plain, leno/ dobby weave
- Lightweight, soft & transparent
- Used for curtains next to glass windows
Gauze
- Dyed yarns introduced at intervals in both warp & filling to achieve block / check effect
- From Italian “Ging-gang” — “striped”
- Strong, serviceable; soft, dull luster surface
- For upholstery
Gingham
- Fine, gauzy, loosely woven fabric in leno weave
- Known for stiffness & used for women’s cloth
Grenadine
- Strong closely-woven corded fabric usually silk/ rayon & w/ cotton filler
- Heavy rather than ribbed fabric from plain/ rib weaves
- Weft heavy than warp
- Called “corded fabric” since weft resemble fine cords
Grosgrain
Japanese term for “soft as down”
Lightweight, plain weave, silk fabric
Softer than shantung
Habotai
- Multi-colored effect
- Created by blending fibers of different colors
- Used multiple shades of grey/ another
- Color to produce muted shade
Heather
- Very stiff, wiry cloth from single horsehair filling
- No more than 26” (66.04 cm) wide
- Used for upholstery/ stiffening, interlinings to garment to enhance its shape
Hair cloth
- Broken twill weave
- Composed of vertical sections that are alternately right angle in direction
- Also called “arrow head weave”
- Broken twill since right & left-hand twill resembles the backbone of a herring fish
- Used as coats esp. cold countries
Kdrama
Herringbone
- Broken twill weave
- Medium-sized broken check effects that from an abstract 4 pointed star
- Doutone pattern, black & white
- Small pattern referred as “puppy tooth”
- Used in coats in kdrama
Houndstooth
- Use resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on threads
“Double Ikat” both warp & weft tie dyed before weaving - From “malay” means “to bind”
- Tribal patterns
Ikat
- Woven w/ yarn of one color in warp & another color in the filling
- Seems to change color as light strikes it
- Other names “changeable & shot”
Iridescent fabric
- Series of paint stripes, light medium/ dark yarns
- Various effects be produced by twist of yarn
Jaspe’
- Metallic threads/ yarn are used
- Shine & glitter makes it suitable for dressy wear
- Usually gold, silver, & copper
- From french term “worked w/ gold & silver wire”
Lame’
- Fabrics joined together w/ the use of high strength reinforcing scrim
- Base fabric, 2 plies thermoplastic film
- Outdoor fabric
Laminated Fabric
-Light, thin cloth, plain weave w/ crisp & crease - resistant finish
- Known for “semi-transparency” range from, gauzy/ sheer to an almost opaque effect
- From linen, now is cotton
- From word “Laon” city in France where it is manufactured
- Fine high count yarns, give a silky feel, crispier than voile but not crispy as organdine
- Can be white, dyed/ printed
Lawn
- Jacquard striped fabric
- Simulating silk & embroidery
- Figuring & color in pattern comes from the warp
Lisserie
- Fine firm cotton cloth w/ plain weave background striped/ plaid in color
- Derived from town in India & old
- For clothing
Madras
- Light weight, open - mesh cloth
- Leno / doupe weave
- For clothing, curtains & mosquito nets
- Similar to grenadine but w/ slightly more open weave
Marquisette
- Soft, double cloth w/c has quilted surface
- Jacquard loom
- 2 sets of warp & weft yarns
- Stand out pattern gives “pouch/ quilted”
- From French mean “ cushioned/ padded”
-Meant to mimic french handmade quilts
Metallase
- Heavy felted, hard, plain, face- finished
- Napped; closely sheared
- From Mowbray fox-hunting area in Leicestershire
Melton
- Very coarse yarn; rough substantial rather than bulky
- Tendency to slide stretch & fray
- Sag in time
Monk’s cloth
- Net-like open appearance
- Variety of construction; woven, knits, laces / crocheted fabrics
- 1st use in interiors “office chair” Herman Miller
Mesh
- Generic term for variety of cotton fabric
- Sheers to coarse sheeting
- Smooth delicately woven cotton fabric
- Used for dress & curtains
- French term “mousseline”
- Named 1st made mosul, now Iraq
- Fine linen known as “Sindon”
Muslin
- Fine, soft fabric w/ plain weave
- Light weight form of muslin
- Usually w/ stripe, luster
- Used for infant wear, lingerie / blouses
Nainsook
- Sheer fabric of silk, rayon/nylon
- Smooth transparent, high textured, plain/ novelty weave
- Delicate & lightweight
- “French Terga”
- Used for curtains, evening or bridal wear
- Like voile but has more body
Ninon
- Soft white, closely woven cotton fabric
- When from silk; called “organza”
- Sheerest & crispiest cotton cloth
- Prone to crinkling
- Calendered on right to produce slight gloss
- Similar to batiste but stiffer and few slub
Organdine
- Coarse cloth, part cotton waste on it.
- Cheap fabric
- 18th C. made from flax but 19th C. made in cotton
- From town in Germany
Osnaburg
- Tightly woven, plain weave, ribbed w/ slightly lustered surface
- Ribbed created by finer silk w/ heavier filler where yarn is covered by warp yarn.
Ottoman
- Soft, porous rather stout fabric
- Silk like luster finish
- Basket weave structure, soil easily
- Used for men’s shirt
Oxford
- French word “plush”
- Satin faced material from high luster by roller pressure treatment during finishing
- Resembles velvet but has much long pile type of crushed velvet; the pile is forced in one direction, applying heavy pressure.
Panne
- Cotton cloth w/ smooth firm finish
- Closely woven, plain weave fabric
- Fine, lustrous, smooth cloth w/ min. thread count of 180 threads per square inch
- Common weave for bed sheets
Percale
- Medium weight/ heavy fabric w/ raised cords that run in the warp direction
- Tightly woven & durable
- For polo shirts & waffle weave
- Valued by golfers
Pique
- Treated in a striped motif/ spot formation
- Use caustic soda solution that shrinks parts of the goods to provide sprinkled/ pleated effect
- No need to be ironed
- Called wrinkle crepe & made in shrink process
Plisse
- Warp pile covered w/ surface of cut pile yarns
- Pile is longer but not densly woven as velvet
- From french term “peluche”; Latin “Pilus” means “Hair”
- For upholstery & furniture; dress & millnery
Plush
- From cotton sometimes silk
- 1st made in France in 1834 as dull surface net w/ various shred holes
- White/ colored dots
- For curtains, bassinets, formal wear
Point D’esprit
- Originally thin, natural, tan- colored silk
- From wild Chinese silk w/ knotty rough weave, high luster
- Named from Chinese “Pun-ki” meaning “ woven at home on ones own loom”
- Used as drapery lining
Pongee
- Combed & carded fabric w/ satin weave construction
- Calendered to produce high luster
- W/ intricate floral patterns called “chintz”
Polished Cotton
- Fine rib effect in filling direction from selvage to selvage
- Heavy, durable fabric; ribbed appearance
- From obsolete French “papeline”
Poplin
- Similar to poplin but more distinctive cross rib cord
- Heavy suits & coats for men & boy’s wear used
- For upholstery & drapery
Rep
- W/ satin weave
- Smooth lustrous surface effect
- Used if the fabric uses short- staple yarns such as cotton (skips 6-7 yarn)
Sateen
- Very smooth, lustrous face effect while back of material is dull
- From Zayfun, China
- Favorite of court life since it exquisite quality & feel from latin “Seta” — silk
- Term used when filament fiber such as silk, nylon/ polyester are used
Satin
- High grade coating fabric
- From wool of merino sheep raised in Saxony, Germany
- Fine & high quality fabric
- Soft to the cloth, drapes well
- Absorb moisture well resist wrinkles
- Name for soft woolen cloth w/ effects
Saxony
- Open mesh plain weave cloth
- Used w/ buckram
Scrim
- Lightweight cotton cloth
- Warp lies fast & second warp becomes crinkled, because of chemical treatment
- Striped/ checkered
- For summer suits
Seersucker
- Oldest basic term in textile
- Diagonal lined/ ridges on both sides
- 2 up & 2 down twill weave
Serge
- Raw silk from Tussah silk fabric made from several fiber but designated slub filling yarn
- Wrinkles a bit & slips at the seams
- From one of the city in China (originated)
Shantung
- From twill weave
- Smooth compact surface resembles skin of shark
- Substantial feel , lightweight, excellent wear
- Sheds dirt readily
Sharkskin
- Fine quality cotton fabric
- Thread count is low, sheeting defined as muslin
- Thread count is high, the yarn is combed
- Defined as “Percale”
Sheeting
- Lightweight, from different, colored yarns making iridescent look
- Crisp but not stiff hand
- From rayon/ polyester blend
- Used for apparel, sophisticated window treatments & pillow
Shimmer
- From Germany & Austria
- To produce freedom of body movement for the athlete
- Good surface texture, durable & moisture absorbent
Stretch Woven
- Twill weave silk/ rayon
- Wrinkles easily
- Soft & flexible, lightweight & lustrous
Surrah
- Fine, plain weave, smooth both sides w/ sheen on its surface
- May be solid colored, printed/ woven
- Luxury for women’s wear 16th C.
-From Persian fabric named “Taftan” - Dressy fabric
Taffeta
- Plain weave, 2 up & 2 down twill weave
- From Spain
- Called “tiritana”
- Associated w/ Scottish clans
- Specific woven pattern signify Scottish clan in modern era
- Blocks of color that repeat vertically & horizontal
- Square patter & lines known as “Sett”
- Known as “plaid”
Tartan
- From cotton
- Uncut loops on both sides of fabric
- Absorbent, the greater the loops the more it absorbs
- When pile is only one side called “Turkish Towelling”
Terry Cloth
- Broad term, extremely strong
- Covering for pillows, mattresses & box springs, home furnishings & for work clothes & sports clothes
- Striped, twill/ sateen weave
- Sturdy & strong smooth & lustrous
Ticking
- From 100% microfiber polyester
- lightweight fabric
- Silky feel & slight sheen, excellent draping
- Known as “crepe de chine”
Tissue Faille
- Durable heavy poplin
- From polyester & cotton blend
- Utility cloth, for table cloth, chair covers
Trigger
- Rough, irregular, soft & flexible, unfinished
- Shaggy cloth
- “Tweed River”
- Oldest & most popular outer wear fabrics
- Twill plain weave
- Check / herringbone pattern
Tweed
- World’s 1st ultra microfiber
- Tradename: Dr. Miyoshi Okamoto in1970
- Feels like natural suede
- Age better that real suede, multifunctional
- For fashion, interior, automotive & industrial
- Described as the most all microfiber on market.
Ultrasuade
- Loosely applied to cut pile cloths
- Fine raised finish
- French term “Velvet”
- Resembles velvet but has a lower cut pile
Velour
- Warp pile cloth in a succession of rows of short cut pile stand close together to have even surface
- Extra set of filling warps
Velvet
- Filling pile is made by cutting an extra set of filling yarns (weft)
- Usually made in cotton
- Imitation velvet
Velveteen
- Crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton like fabric
- Similar appearance to organdy / organza
- Used in blouse dresses
- From French term “veil”
Voile
- Honeycombed weave
- Used for coatings, draperies, dresses and towels
Waffle
- Have been laundered before shipping
- Done to reduce shrinkage
Washed
- Cloth made from cross-bred yarns and a strongly colored
- Highly raised, lustrous and nap in one direction
Zibeline