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marine science > tides, waves, currents > Flashcards

tides, waves, currents Flashcards

1
Q

tides

A

the rhythmic rise and fall of the ocean’s waters

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2
Q

high tide

A

rising, incoming tide, flow

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3
Q

low tide

A

receding, outgoing tide, ebb

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4
Q

slack tide

A

vertical movement stops

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5
Q

What is a wave period of a tide?

A

12 hours 25 min

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6
Q

How long is a tidal day?

A

24 hours 50 min

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7
Q

How many high and low tides does Massachusetts have?

A

2 high and 2 low tides daily

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8
Q

What causes tides?

A

gravitational pull of sun and moon on earth

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9
Q

Does the sun or moon have a greater effect on tides?

A

moon is closer, therefore greater effect

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10
Q

tidal bulge

A

moon pulls water away from surface

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11
Q

spring tide

A

moon and sun are in direct line with one another

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12
Q

What is the result of a spring tide?

A

unusually high tidal range

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13
Q

tidal range

A

vertical distance between high and low tides

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14
Q

How often do spring tides happen?

A

2 times a month

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15
Q

neap tide

A
  • sun and moon are at right angle
  • pulls cancel each other out and causes a weak pull
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16
Q

What is the result of a neap tide?

A

unusually low tide range

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17
Q

How often do neap tides happen?

A

2 times a month

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18
Q

diurnal tides

A

1 high and 1 low / day

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19
Q

Where are diurnal tides located?

A

parts of Gulf of Mexico and Asia

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20
Q

semi-diurnal tides

A

2 high and 2 low / day

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21
Q

Where are semi-diurnal tides located?

A

Atlantic coasts of North America and Europe

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22
Q

mixed tides

A

2 high and 2 low / day (height varies)

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23
Q

Where are mixed tides located?

A

Pacific coast

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24
Q

progressive waves

A
  • oscillate uniformly and progress without breaking
  • energy transferred from one molecule to another
  • water molecules move in circular orbits at sea’s surface
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25
Q

What are the types of progressive waves?

A

longitudinal, transverse, orbital

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26
Q

longitudinal and transverse are ___ waves

A

body

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27
Q

orbital are ___ waves

28
Q

What are orbital waves also called?

A

interface waves

29
Q

Where are orbital waves?

A

waves on ocean surface

30
Q

What are the components of orbital waves?

A

has components of both transverse and longitudinal wave

31
Q

wave period (T)

A

time for one wavelength to pass fixed-point

32
Q

time for one wavelength to pass fixed-point

A

wave period (T)

33
Q

How long is a wave period?

A

range between 6 and 16 seconds

34
Q

wave speed

A

celerity (C)

35
Q

What does each letter mean? C=L/T

A

c=celerity
l=wavelength
t=period

36
Q

wave frequency

A

inverse of period or L/T, the number of wave crests that pass a point in a given period of time

37
Q

inverse of period or L/T, the number of wave crests that pass a point in a given period of time

A

wave frequency

38
Q

How do waves develop?

A

sequence by which waves typically evolve in the open ocean when wind interacts with the sea’s surface

39
Q

capillary waves

A

ripples, less than 2cm

40
Q

gravity waves

A
  • more energy transferred to ocean, >2cm
  • length of wave is 15 to 35 times height
41
Q

What factors affect wind wave formation?

A
  • wind speed
  • wind duration
  • fetch
42
Q

wind duration

A

length of time wind blows in one direction

43
Q

fetch

A

distance over which wind blows

44
Q

What are the types of ocean currents?

A

surface currents, deep currents, equatorial countercurrents, subpolar gyres

45
Q

surface currents

A
  • wind-driven
  • primarily horizontal motion
46
Q

deep currents

A
  • driven by differences in density caused by differences in temperature and salinity
  • vertical and horizontal motions
47
Q

equatorial countercurrents

A

eastward flow between North and South equatorial currents

48
Q

subpolar gyres

A
  • rotate opposite subtropical gyres
  • smaller and fewer than subtropical gyres
49
Q

What is western intensification?

A

top of hill of water displaced toward west due to hemispheres

50
Q

What contributes to western intensification?

A

Coriolis effect

51
Q

What are qualities of western intensification?

A

faster, narrower, deeper, warm

52
Q

What are eastern boundary currents?

A
  • eastern side of ocean basins
  • tend to have the opposite properties of western country currents
53
Q

What are qualities of western intensification?

A

cold, slow, shallow, wide

54
Q

upwelling

A
  • vertical movement of cold, nutrient-rich water to surface
  • high biological productivity
55
Q
  • vertical movement of cold, nutrient-rich water to surface
  • high biological productivity
56
Q

What is upwelling caused by?

A
  • diverging surface water
  • coastal winds
  • offshore winds
  • sea floor obstructions
  • sharp bend in coastline
57
Q

diverging surface water

A

surface waters move away from area partly because of ekman transport

58
Q

Where does diverging surface water occur?

A

equatorial upwelling, coastal upwelling

59
Q

coastal upwelling

A
  • ekman transport moves surface seawater offshore
  • cool, nutrient-rich deep water comes up to replace displaced surface waters
60
Q
  • ekman transport moves surface seawater offshore
  • cool, nutrient-rich deep water comes up to replace displaced surface waters
A

coastal upwelling

61
Q

Where is an example of coastal upwelling?

A

U.S. west coast

62
Q

the u.s. west coast is an example of ___

A

coastal upwelling

63
Q

downwelling

A
  • vertical movement of surface water downward in water column
  • water piles up and then sinks
  • low productivity
64
Q
  • vertical movement of surface water downward in water column
  • water piles up and then sinks
  • low productivity
A

downwelling

65
Q

What causes downwelling?

A
  • converging surface waters
  • coastal winds

marine science (3 decks)

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