Test 2 Flashcards

1
Q

Stitch class 100

A

aka chainstitch. Simplest stitch type. Has one or more needle threads and is formed by interloping. This stitch is very insecure and unravels easily. If a stick is broken or skipper or if that last loop is not fastened securely. This stitch is used for sewing buttons and buttonholes, hemming, basting, and pad stitching.

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2
Q

Stitch class 200

A

aka hand stitch. Is made with a needle that is passed from one side of the material to the other as a single line of thread. The most important machine to duplicate this stitch is a pick stitching machine.

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3
Q

Stitch class 300

A

aka lockstitch. The most common stitch type. Has two or more groups of threads that interlace to form the stitch. One group is called the needle threads and the other the bobbin threads. These stitches do not unravel easily and always require a bobbin. Very versatile. They are used for seaming, hemming, and setting zippers and pockets.

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4
Q

Understitch

A

A stitch used on enclosed seams to precent the seam from rolling to the face side

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5
Q

Edgestitch

A

A row of machine stitching close to a seamline or garment edge

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6
Q

Topstitch

A

A row of stitching that shows on the face side of the garment. Generally topstitching is sewn with the garment face side up

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7
Q

Easestitch

A

A seam that joins two piles of unequal length by easing the longer section to the shorter one so the difference in length is imperceptible.

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8
Q

Grade

A

trimming your seam to various levels making each layer of fabric a different width. Doing this reduces bulk within the seam area.

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9
Q

Trim

A

The process of cutting away some material during the construction process

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10
Q

Facing

A

A garment component used to finish straight and curved edges. On a curved edge a separate facing is generally preferred.

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11
Q

stitch class 500

A

aka the over edge stitch. formed with one or more groups of threads that interlope to from a thread sheath around the fabric edge. Used in an overlock machine and serger

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12
Q

samplemaker

A

An indicudal who makes the sample garment

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13
Q

patternmaker

A

An individual who makes any paper pattern, but especially the first paper pattern

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14
Q

sample garment

A

The first garment made form the design sketch

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15
Q

first pattern

A

The pattern created from a design sketch for the fist sample garment

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16
Q

production pattern

A

A perfected patter used for cutting garments for mass production

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17
Q

duplicates

A

A copy of the original prototype garment in the sample size. In the sewing room, duplicates are used as a guide and standard for production by the contractor or factory foreman. They are also used by the marketing staff to advertise the product in print and showrooms.

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18
Q

Design ideas three categories

A
  1. modification of new fabrications of successful styles from the current or previous season and adaptations of current trends
  2. Knockoff or copies of more expensive high fashion designs
  3. orignial trend setting designs
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19
Q

croquis

A

A sketch of a design idea

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20
Q

slopers

A

A manufactures pattern for a basic silhouette

21
Q

foundations pattern

A

The basic block for a pattern; also called a sloper

22
Q

trial garment

A

The first garment made from the design sketch

23
Q

underpressing

A

The group of pressing operations performed during the construction method

24
Q

model/ style number

A

A particular model or garment in the collection

25
Q

production patternmaker

A

an indicial responsible for perfecting the first pattern for the prototype and making the pattern that will be used for the production of the garment

26
Q

proofing

A

To make one or more garments using the perfected first pattern and industry techniques, to be sure the garment meets the firms fit, quality, and production standards

27
Q

costing

A

estimation of the cost to produce a garment. In some firms, the designer considers only the costs for materials and labor; in others he or she considers all costs and profits.

28
Q

production engineer

A

an individual responsible for using for using the equipment, labor, and materials of the factory

29
Q

grading

A

a method for increasing and decreasing the sizes of the individual pattern pieces so that garments in larger and smaller sizes will have the same appearance, fit, and proportion as the sample garment.

30
Q

cut-make-trim

A

an outside firm that cuts and sews garments

31
Q

marking

A

planning the layouts and making markers

32
Q

spreading

A

the fabrics to create a spread of lay

33
Q

cut parts

A

cutting the lay into cut parts -> the individual garment components or garment parts

34
Q

bundling

A

the cut parts so they are ready for sewing or other procedures such as fussing interfacing, pleating, shirring, or silk screening.

35
Q

stacking up / laying up the cut

A

the process of stacking the material one layer on top of another to create a lay. Whether it is done manually or with a spreader it is a slow, time consuming process because it must be done with precisely to avoid fabric waste and to ensure that the piles are aligned so the parts can be cut accuratly

36
Q

whole garment / single- hand production

A

A production in which one person assembles all or most of the garment

37
Q

operators

A

individuals who assemble garment components at sewing machines

38
Q

finishers

A

individuals who do finishing or hand sewing on garments

39
Q

pressing

A

the the process of shaping the material, garment components, and completed garments with heat, moisture, pressure, and time. The two types of pressing operations are underpressing and off-pressing

40
Q

Underpressing

A

incldues all pressing operations performed during the construction of the garment. It prepares each component for the next sewing operation and included busting seams, pressing darts and pocket, molding and shaping garment parts, fusing, creasing, and shrinking. Although underdressing adds to the quality of the garment it is generally kept to a minimum because it increases the cost of production. On better garments underdressing occurs at various stages of assembly

41
Q

Top pressing / Finish pressing/ off pressing

A

Is the final pressing. It describes the pressing operations performed after the garment has been assembles. It includes pressing edges, reviving the nap, removing any glazing, and smoothing the fabric.

42
Q

centered zipper

A

visible zipper. What I used in skirt

43
Q

lapped zipper

A

covers zipper chain. One side of zipper welt laps over another

44
Q

invisible zipper

A

looks like a continuation of seam.

45
Q

fly zipper

A

type of welt or lapped zipper that is decorative and functional. Most jeans. top is usually finished with a waistband

46
Q

double turn hem

A

is commonly used on casual and washable garments. It can be narrow as on jeans and shirts, or wiser for tops and pockets.

47
Q

Narrow hems

A

(rolled and chiffon) are used on lightweightt and transparent garments.

48
Q

Hand hemming

A

on better garments hems are generally finished inconspicuously by hand.