Test 1 Flashcards
Grainline
Lengthwise grain across the selvage
Crosswise grain down the cut edge
Lengthwise grain is the strongest
Crosswise grain is stretcher because thread is shorter
Pressing
- Press Seam flat
- Press seam open on wrong side (use tip of iron)
- Press seam flat on wrong side
- Press seam on face side of fabric
Backstitching
- Forward 2-3 stitches backward 2 then forward
- Beginning and end of seam
Seam Allowances
- Bernina = 3/8, ½, 5/8, further 1”
- Industrial Machine = quarter inches
- Distance from the raw edge to the needle hole of the farthest stitching.
Stitch Length
- Distance from the beginning of the seamline to the end
Eased Seam
: A seam that joins two piles of unequal length by easing the longer section to the shorter one so the difference in length is imperceptible. recently used ins tread of small darts at the back shoulder, waist, bust, elbow, and armscye.
Shirred
A seam that had gathering or shirring at the seamline on one or both components
Understitching
- A stitch used on enclosed seams to prevent the seam from rolling to the face side
Edgestitching
A row of machine stitching close to a seamline or garment edge
Topstitching
A row of stitching that shows on the face side of the garment. Generally topstitching is sewn with the garment face side up
SSA (plain) seam
o Type of superimposed seam
o “Stacked”
o Least Costly, Simplest’
o Plain seams on dresses, blouses, trousers, etc.
lockstitch
A stitch made on a lockstitch machine; it required a bobbin and a hook or shuttle to create stitches. Two or more groups of thread that interlace to from the stitch. One is called the needle threads and one is called the bobbin threads. Most common stitch type.
Overlock Machine
A machine that makes a finish that enclose the raw edge with thread
Overlocked Seam
An edge finish made on an overlock machine. Generally used as a utilitarian finish on seam to prevent raveling, it can be used decoratively on the face of the garment
Darts
Most of triangle 12SPI, bottom 15SPI