Test 1 Flashcards

1
Q

Grainline

A

Lengthwise grain across the selvage
Crosswise grain down the cut edge
Lengthwise grain is the strongest
Crosswise grain is stretcher because thread is shorter

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2
Q

Pressing

A
  1. Press Seam flat
  2. Press seam open on wrong side (use tip of iron)
  3. Press seam flat on wrong side
  4. Press seam on face side of fabric
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3
Q

Backstitching

A
  • Forward 2-3 stitches backward 2 then forward

- Beginning and end of seam

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4
Q

Seam Allowances

A
  • Bernina = 3/8, ½, 5/8, further 1”
  • Industrial Machine = quarter inches
  • Distance from the raw edge to the needle hole of the farthest stitching.
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5
Q

Stitch Length

A
  • Distance from the beginning of the seamline to the end
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6
Q

Eased Seam

A

: A seam that joins two piles of unequal length by easing the longer section to the shorter one so the difference in length is imperceptible. recently used ins tread of small darts at the back shoulder, waist, bust, elbow, and armscye.

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7
Q

Shirred

A

A seam that had gathering or shirring at the seamline on one or both components

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8
Q

Understitching

A
  • A stitch used on enclosed seams to prevent the seam from rolling to the face side
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9
Q

Edgestitching

A

A row of machine stitching close to a seamline or garment edge

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10
Q

Topstitching

A

A row of stitching that shows on the face side of the garment. Generally topstitching is sewn with the garment face side up

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11
Q

SSA (plain) seam

A

o Type of superimposed seam
o “Stacked”
o Least Costly, Simplest’
o Plain seams on dresses, blouses, trousers, etc.

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12
Q

lockstitch

A

A stitch made on a lockstitch machine; it required a bobbin and a hook or shuttle to create stitches. Two or more groups of thread that interlace to from the stitch. One is called the needle threads and one is called the bobbin threads. Most common stitch type.

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13
Q

Overlock Machine

A

A machine that makes a finish that enclose the raw edge with thread

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14
Q

Overlocked Seam

A

An edge finish made on an overlock machine. Generally used as a utilitarian finish on seam to prevent raveling, it can be used decoratively on the face of the garment

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15
Q

Darts

A

Most of triangle 12SPI, bottom 15SPI

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16
Q

Bound Seam

A

A seam finish for plain seams in which the raw edges are enclose by another fabric separately or together. Double-fold bias tape, Iace, seam, binding, and lightweight fabric are frequently used for binding. Seam allowances can be encased separately or together, and they can be stitched with one or more runs

17
Q

Lapped Seam

A

A seam formed by lapping on layer over the other at the nestle so that only the seam allowances are facing

18
Q

Single Needle Flat Fell Seam

A

A complex seam made with all raw edges turned under so that the finished seam is attractive on both the fave and wrong sides of the garment. Expensive. It is suitable for all types of cotton sportswear and blouses, but it is used most frequently for setting sleeves on mens shirts

19
Q

Complex Seam

A

A seam that requires more than one step during the construction process. Drapery French, French, flat-felled, slot, itched, and welt seams are complex seams

20
Q

Slipstitch hem

A

A hand hemming stitch working right to left, alternating stitches between the hem and the garment creating small Vs

21
Q

french seam

A

A complex seam in which both raw edges are enclosed. Generally French seams are on the inside of the garment with no visible stitching lines on the face side, but they can be used as a tri on the face side

22
Q

lap seam

A

A seam formed by lapping one layer over the other at the needle so that only the seam allowances are facing