systems and processes Flashcards

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1
Q

what is a source of energy for a coastal environment?

A

wind (south easterly wind)

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2
Q

how does wave refraction occur?

A

it occurs when energy is concentrated at the headland and the wave bends and the energy is dissipated into bays either side

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3
Q

what happens when a wave enters shallow water?

A

The front of the wave slows and the wavelength shortens which causes the height to increase

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4
Q

What is wave energy affected by? (3 things)

A

strength of wind
duration of wind
the fetch

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5
Q

What do constructive waves look like?

A

they are low surging waves with a long wavelength

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6
Q

what do destructive waves look like?

A

they are high plunging waves with a short wavelength

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7
Q

which type of wave causes beach gain

A

constructive wave

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8
Q

Which type of wave causes beach loss

A

destructive wave

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9
Q

What is the beach profile needed for a destructive wave?

A

steeper but over time flattened

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10
Q

What is the beach profile needed for constructive wave?

A

gentle but over time made steeper

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11
Q

What is a marine process?

A

a process that occurs on a coastline and operates with the sea

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12
Q

What is a sub aerial process?

A

process that slowly breaks down the coastline

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13
Q

How does freeze thaw weathering work?

A

water fills crack in rock, then freezes, then breaks the rock as it expands

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14
Q

How does salt crystallisation weathering work?

A

saline creeps into the rocks and evaporates, leaving salt crystals behind

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15
Q

How does wetting and drying weathering work?

A

clay rocks expand when they are wet and contract when they are dry. this causes cracks that are prone to other weathering methods

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16
Q

What is a mass movement rockfall?

A

When pieces of rock fall off the cliff edge.

17
Q

What is a mass movement mudflow?

A

saturated soil falls down a slope

18
Q

What is a mass movement landslide?

A

Large blocks of rock sliding downhill

19
Q

What is a mass movement rotational slip?

A

saturated soil slumps down a curved surface

20
Q

What is erosional hydraulic action?

A

The force of fast flowing water hitting the bed and banks and forcing water and air into cracks. The changes in air pressure cause the river bed to weaken

21
Q

What is erosional wave quarrying?

A

High energy waves hit the cliff face and enlarge joints and have the power to remove large chunks of rock

22
Q

What is erosional cavitation?

A

compressed air in joints causes water to be under a lot of pressure and air comes out of the joints in fizzing enlarging fissures

23
Q

What is transportation traction?

A

large stones and boulders roll along the seabed by moving water

24
Q

What is transportation saltation?

A

small stones bounce along seabed, particles are thrust up and down causing continuous bouncing

25
Q

what is transportation suspension?

A

particles of sand and silt are carried along by moving water which causes murky water

26
Q

what is transportation solution?

A

dissolved materials transported through moving water

27
Q

What is long shore drift?

A

waves approach the shore at an angle and material is pushed up the beach as swash. as the water runs back down the beach the backwash goes back down the beach and is picked up by an incoming wave. Sediment moves in zigzag movement.

28
Q

What is a high energy coastline?

A

Waves are powerful
Rate of erosion faster than rate of deposition
Headlands, cliffs and wave cut platforms

29
Q

What is a low energy coastline?

A

Waves are not powerful
Rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion
Beaches and spits

30
Q

How are waves formed?

A

Frictional drag disturbs the surface and creates ripples. In open water there is orbital motion of water particles. Horizontal movement of water occurs near the coast as waves are driven onshore

31
Q

What is marine deposition?

A

Takes place where the waves are low energy. The sea lays down material when there is a reduction in energy resulting in a decrease in volume of water.

32
Q

What is aeolian deposition?

A

The transport and deposition of material by the wind

33
Q

What are inputs of a coastal environment

A

energy from waves, tides and sea currents
sediment
geology of the coastline
sea level change

34
Q

What are outputs of a coastal environment

A

dissipation of wave energy
accumulation of sediment above the tidal limit
sediment removed beyond sediment cells

35
Q

How is wind an input into the coastal environment?

A

The fetch is the distance of open water which a wind blows interrupted
It places vital role in wave formation