systems and processes

Question 1

what is a source of energy for a coastal environment?

Answer 1

wind (south easterly wind)

Question 2

how does wave refraction occur?

Answer 2

it occurs when energy is concentrated at the headland and the wave bends and the energy is dissipated into bays either side

Question 3

what happens when a wave enters shallow water?

Answer 3

The front of the wave slows and the wavelength shortens which causes the height to increase

Question 4

What is wave energy affected by? (3 things)

Answer 4

strength of wind
duration of wind
the fetch

Question 5

What do constructive waves look like?

Answer 5

they are low surging waves with a long wavelength

Question 6

what do destructive waves look like?

Answer 6

they are high plunging waves with a short wavelength

Question 7

which type of wave causes beach gain

Answer 7

constructive wave

Question 8

Which type of wave causes beach loss

Answer 8

destructive wave

Question 9

What is the beach profile needed for a destructive wave?

Answer 9

steeper but over time flattened

Question 10

What is the beach profile needed for constructive wave?

Answer 10

gentle but over time made steeper

Question 11

What is a marine process?

Answer 11

a process that occurs on a coastline and operates with the sea

Question 12

What is a sub aerial process?

Answer 12

process that slowly breaks down the coastline

Question 13

How does freeze thaw weathering work?

Answer 13

water fills crack in rock, then freezes, then breaks the rock as it expands

Question 14

How does salt crystallisation weathering work?

Answer 14

saline creeps into the rocks and evaporates, leaving salt crystals behind

Question 15

How does wetting and drying weathering work?

Answer 15

clay rocks expand when they are wet and contract when they are dry. this causes cracks that are prone to other weathering methods

Question 16

What is a mass movement rockfall?

Answer 16

When pieces of rock fall off the cliff edge.

Question 17

What is a mass movement mudflow?

Answer 17

saturated soil falls down a slope

Question 18

What is a mass movement landslide?

Answer 18

Large blocks of rock sliding downhill

Question 19

What is a mass movement rotational slip?

Answer 19

saturated soil slumps down a curved surface

Question 20

What is erosional hydraulic action?

Answer 20

The force of fast flowing water hitting the bed and banks and forcing water and air into cracks. The changes in air pressure cause the river bed to weaken

Question 21

What is erosional wave quarrying?

Answer 21

High energy waves hit the cliff face and enlarge joints and have the power to remove large chunks of rock

Question 22

What is erosional cavitation?

Answer 22

compressed air in joints causes water to be under a lot of pressure and air comes out of the joints in fizzing enlarging fissures

Question 23

What is transportation traction?

Answer 23

large stones and boulders roll along the seabed by moving water

Question 24

What is transportation saltation?

Answer 24

small stones bounce along seabed, particles are thrust up and down causing continuous bouncing

Question 25

what is transportation suspension?

Answer 25

particles of sand and silt are carried along by moving water which causes murky water

Question 26

what is transportation solution?

Answer 26

dissolved materials transported through moving water

Question 27

What is long shore drift?

Answer 27

waves approach the shore at an angle and material is pushed up the beach as swash. as the water runs back down the beach the backwash goes back down the beach and is picked up by an incoming wave. Sediment moves in zigzag movement.

Question 28

What is a high energy coastline?

Answer 28

Waves are powerful
Rate of erosion faster than rate of deposition
Headlands, cliffs and wave cut platforms

Question 29

What is a low energy coastline?

Answer 29

Waves are not powerful
Rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion
Beaches and spits

Question 30

How are waves formed?

Answer 30

Frictional drag disturbs the surface and creates ripples. In open water there is orbital motion of water particles. Horizontal movement of water occurs near the coast as waves are driven onshore

Question 31

What is marine deposition?

Answer 31

Takes place where the waves are low energy. The sea lays down material when there is a reduction in energy resulting in a decrease in volume of water.

Question 32

What is aeolian deposition?

Answer 32

The transport and deposition of material by the wind

Question 33

What are inputs of a coastal environment

Answer 33

energy from waves, tides and sea currents
sediment
geology of the coastline
sea level change

Question 34

What are outputs of a coastal environment

Answer 34

dissipation of wave energy
accumulation of sediment above the tidal limit
sediment removed beyond sediment cells

Question 35

How is wind an input into the coastal environment?

Answer 35

The fetch is the distance of open water which a wind blows interrupted
It places vital role in wave formation