systems and processes

Question 1

What are the four sources of energy in coastal systems?

Answer 1

wind
Waves
tides
currents

Question 2

What happens to the wind during storms?

Answer 2

pressure gradient (difference between high and low pressure) is high and winds very strong

Question 3

what do strong winds lead to?

Answer 3

powerful waves

Question 4

prevailing wind

Answer 4

wind consistently blowing in the save direction

causes higher energy waves compared to winds that change direction frequently

Question 5

how are waves created?

Answer 5

wind blowing over the surface of the sea

friction between wind and surface of sea gives water a circular motion

Question 6

what is the fetch?

Answer 6

maximum distance of sea the wind has blown over uninterrupted

Question 7

what creates more powerful higher waves?

Answer 7

high wind speed

long fetch

Question 8

What happens when waves approach the shore?

Answer 8

friction with sea bed slows the bottom of the waves and makes motion more elliptical, crest of wave rises and then collapses

Question 9

swash

Answer 9

water running up the beach

Question 10

backwash

Answer 10

water washing back towards the sea

Question 11

characteristics of constructive waves

Answer 11

low frequency
low and long
strong swash

Question 12

characteristics of a destructive wave

Answer 12

high and steep
high frequency
strong backwash

Question 13

tides

Answer 13

periodic rise and fall of the ocean surface caused by gravitational; pull of moon and sun

Question 14

why are tides important?

Answer 14

affect the position at which the wave breaks

high tide break higher up the shore

Question 15

where are most landforms created?

Answer 15

between maximum high tide and minimum low tide

Question 16

currents

Answer 16

general flow of water in one direction

Question 17

what are currents caused by?

Answer 17

wind
water temperature
salinity

Question 18

why are currents important?

Answer 18

move material along the coast

Question 19

high energy coastline

Answer 19

large powerful waves
strong winds long fetches and steeply shelving offshore zone
rate of erosion higher

Question 20

low energy coastline

Answer 20

low inputs of energy
small gentle waves
gentle winds
short fetches
deposition

Question 21

what features are found at low energy coastlines

Answer 21

salt marshes and tidal mudflats

Question 22

why might a coastline be low energy?

Answer 22

might be a reef or island offshore which protects coast from full power of waves

Question 23

how are rivers sources of sediment?

Answer 23

rivers carry eroded sediment into coastal system

especially in high rainfall environments where significant river erosion occurs

Question 24

how are river valleys a source of sediment?

Answer 24

sea level rise floods river valleys creating estuaries

sediment in the estuary becomes part of coastal system

Question 25

how is erosion a source of sediment?

Answer 25

sediment eroded from cliffs by waves weathering and landslides

Question 26

how are marine organisms a source of sediment?

Answer 26

sediment formed from crushed shells of marine organisms

Question 27

how are offshore deposits a source of sediment?

Answer 27

waves tides and currents transport sediment into coastal zone from offshore deposits

Question 28

positive sediment budget

Answer 28

more sediment enters than leaves

coastline builds outwards

Question 29

negative sediment budget

Answer 29

more sediment leaves than enters

coastline retreats

Question 30

sediment cell

Answer 30

closed systems between two prominent headlands
sediment recycled
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