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Cosmeceutical Science > Surfactants > Flashcards

Surfactants Flashcards

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1
Q

What are Carboxylate Salts best for?

A

Soap making

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2
Q

What are Alkyl Sulfates best for?

A

Budget products

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3
Q

What are Alkyl Ester Sulfates best for?

A

Budget but milder than Alkyl Sulfates

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4
Q

What are Sulfosuccinates best for?

A

Co-surfactants with Alkyl Sulfates to improve mildness and hard water issues

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5
Q

What are Fatty Acid Isethionates best for?

A

Premium/Salon facial products

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6
Q

What are Fatty Acid Taurides best for?

A

Premium/salon hair products

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7
Q

What are Alkyl Glutomates best for?

A

Baby & sensitive skin products

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8
Q

What are Alkyl Sarcosinates best for?

A

Mid priced, suits most personal care products. Used where mildness and foaming is required. May need additional foam boosters and viscosity modifiers

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9
Q

Best surfactant for budget products?

A

Alkyl sulfates

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10
Q

Best surfactant for premium hair products?

A

Fatty Acid Taurides

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11
Q

Best surfactant for premium facial products?

A

Fatty Acid Isethionates

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12
Q

Best for budget but milder?

A

Alkyl ester sulfate

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13
Q

Great Co-Surfactant to improve mildness and hard-water issues?

A

Sulfosuccinates

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14
Q

Mild mid priced all rounder?

A

Acyl Sarcosinates

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15
Q

Best surfactant for Baby or sensitive skin products

A

Acyl Glutomates

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16
Q

Name 3 things you would do to keep a budget product in check? (eg hotel product, very cheap supermarket product)

A
  1. Use Anionic and amphoteric surfactants only
  2. Minimal input
  3. Use cheap materials eg Alkyl Sulfates, Cocomidopropyl betain
  4. Minimal ingredients
17
Q

3 things to consider when making a mid priced product

A
  1. Use Anionic and amphoteric and 1 superfatting/non-ionic and polyquat/hydrolized protein or active and small inputs of added extras for point of difference
  2. Use midpoint surfactant to achieve moderate foam and performance
  3. Use some cheap and some luxury ingredients
  4. Minimum necessary ingredients and some for point of difference/improved performance
18
Q

3 things to keep budget on premium/salon/pharmacy products?

A
  1. Use 1-2 Anionic and 1 amphoteric and 2-3 non-ionic/superfatting and polyquat/hydrolyzed protein and actives and small inputs of added extras
  2. Use mid-high point surfactant to achieve good foam and high standard of performance
  3. Use salon performance materials and actives eg fatty acid Isethionates, fatty acid Taurides
  4. Use several premium ingredients to ensure great performance and marketing story and results
19
Q

What % of active content is typically used with Anionic surfactants? And how many?

A

3-10%

1-3

20
Q

What % of active content is typically used with Non-Anionic surfactants? And how many?

A

1.5-5%

1-3

21
Q

What % of active content is typically used with Amphoteric surfactants? And how many?

A

3-10%

1 only

22
Q

What input would you use for face/hands-small surface area?

A

Low side

23
Q

What input would you use for body=large surface area?

A

Mid-high

24
Q

2 things about Anionic surfactants and examples of

A
  1. Negative charge
  2. Used as primary surfactant
  3. Generally incompatible with cationic surfactants
  4. Common Anionic Surfactants:
    - Carboxylate salts

-Alkyl Sulfates=sodium laurel sulfate. Ammonium lauryl sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate

Alkyl Ester Sulfates= sodium laureate sulfate, ammonia laureth sulfate, sodium C12-13 pareth sulfate

Sulfosuccinates= disodium lauryl Sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth Sulfosuccinate, disodium peg-12 dimethicone

Fatty Acid Isethionates= sodium cocoyl isethionate

Fatty Acid Taurides = sodium methyl cocoyl taurate

Acyl glutomates= sodium cocoyl glutamate

Acyl sarcosinates = sodium lauroyl Sarcosinate

25
Q

Common non-ionic surfactants

A

Alkoxylated alcohols-PEG esters (oleth-5, laureth-7) propoxylated alcohols (PPG esters)

Ethoxylated fats and oils=
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 lanolin

Ethoxylated fatty acid esters= PEG-150 distearate

Glycol esters, glycerol esters and Ethoxylated derivatives= PEG-10 pyglyceryl-2 laurate

Sorbitan and sorbitol esters and Ethoxylated derivatives= sorbitan monolaurate and polysorbate 20

Sucrose esters= sucrose stearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate

Alkyl polyglycosides= decyl glycoside and coco-glucoside

26
Q

Non-Ionic Surfactants, name 5 varieties

A
  1. Emulsifiers- help form an emulsion. Often waxy form, builds viscosity
  2. An opacifier- great for making foaming products look pearlescent (glycol stearate)
  3. A solubiliser- liquid very high HLB >15
  4. Superfatting Agent-where an Ethoxylated or water loving portion with a significant fatty acid or lipid portion (and high HLB) the material will impart conditioning properties to a wash off product but form a mixed Michelle with the cleansing agents ensuring stability. May be waxy, but more commonly liquid at room temperature

A Foaming product- very high HLB liquid non-ionic surfactants are good cleansing and foaming agents. Most commonly alkyl polyglycosides eg decyl glycoside

Cosmeceutical Science (3 decks)

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