Lipids Flashcards
Are plant oils/esters polar or non-polar
Polar
Glycerine backbone
Are mineral oils polar or non polar?
Non-polar
Are silicones polar or non-polar?
Non-polar
What is the recommended combined input of lipids in a serum?
3-3.5% emulsifier free
Up to 5% with emulsifier
Recommended combined lipid input for a cream cleanser?
Up to 3% lipids and up to 3% super fatting agents
Recommended combined total lipid input for an O/W cream/lotion
Typically 10% (7-12%)
May be up to 15%
What is the recommended combined input of lipids in a body butter?
Up to 15%
Limit wax input to 2-3% maximum to avoid waxy drag
Limit low melting point butters eg Shea, coconut oil, mango etc to 10% maximum to avoid climate induced viscosity changes
What is the recommended combined input of lipids in a W/O cream/lotion
Typically 50-70%
May be up to 80% or more
Use light lipids: esters, mineral oils, silicones, to lighten skin feel
What is the recommended combined input of lipids in a balm?
Up to 100% with waxes
Limit low melting point butters to avoid climate viscosity changes
Check compatibility of polarity to avoid syneresis
What is syneresis?
Will sweat, drops of water
What is the recommended combined input of lipids in a shampoo/shower gel?
Up to 1% straight lipid
Up to 3% if non-ionic surfactant refattening agent
Up to 6% if silicone esters (copolyols/PEG/PPG silicones)
If Amodimethicone, refer to supplier recommended input
What is the recommended combined input of lipids in a Conditioner?
Up to 3% straight lipids, including volatile silicones
Up to 6% if silicone esters (copolyols/PEG/PPG silicones)
If Amodimethicone, refer to supplier recommended input
What are synthetic lipids?
Give 3 examples
Lipids that are made not natural
- Mineral oil
- Petroleum
- Paraffin wax
What is a superfatting agent?
Superfatting agents are lipid derivatives, made partially hydrophilic (using ethoxylation) -use in wash off products
What is a volatile silicone?
Give an example
A silicone that will evaporate
Never heat them
Cycolmethicone
Amodimethicone