Sparkling Wine in Italy Flashcards

Question

Explain wine law and wine business for Lambrusco?

Answer 1

The principal DOCs have been covered above. In addition, spumante and frizzante wines made from Lambrusco varieties can be labelled as IGT Emilia. For spumante wines, the DOC wines make up 25–30 per cent of production and the rest is IGT. The DOCs require a minimum 11% abv for spumante and 10.5% abv for frizzante wines. However, wines in the amabile or dolce styles are permitted to have a minimum of only 7% abv. They must have a minimum potential alcohol of 10.5-11% abv. Labelling terms and sweetness levels are different for spumante wines and frizzante wines. Spumante wines are labelled according to the standard EU categories for sparkling wine. Frizzante wines have fewer sweetness categories (secco/asciutto, abboccato, amabile), with each category encompassing a broader range of sweetness. The average size of properties remains small (less than three ha). However, that average size has more than doubled since 2000 as some growers left the industry and sold their land to others. Most growers take their fruit to be vinified in the co-operatives or larger private wineries. Lambrusco is sold both in Italy (one-third) and in export markets (two-thirds; 2016 figures). In Italy, sales are principally in supermarkets and in the hospitality sector; a small proportion, typically the higher quality wines, is sold through specialist wine shops. Some very good quality examples are made with concentrated and well-defined fruit (e.g. by Cleto Chiarli). However, Lambrusco has struggled to throw off the ‘inexpensive, red, frothy and sweet’ tag. This reputation is in part due to poor quality wines being exported in large volumes in the past. Part of the issue is that ‘Lambrusco’ on its own is not a protected name. (This contrasts with the way that Prosecco protected its name by using the former grape name as the name of a denomination.) As a result, it is still possible to produce and sell inexpensive, low alcohol, wine-related drinks as Lambrusco, which has made it difficult to promote Lambrusco as a high-quality wine.

Answer 2

This is Italy’s largest wine company by value of turnover (2016) that specialises in Lambrusco and Prosecco. Cantine Riunite was created in 1950 by the merger of nine local wine co-operatives in the province of Reggio Emilia. It has since been joined by the CIV co-operatives in the province of Modena and currently has 1,800 members. In 2002, it bought the Prosecco producer Cantine Maschio and further bought the large co- operative Gruppo Italiano Vini (GIV) in 2008. As a result, it has a portfolio of Lambrusco, flavoured wine-based drinks, Prosecco and, since acquiring GIV, wines from across Italy. The company as a whole sells around half its wine in Italy (predominantly via retailers, rather than the hospitality sector) and half is exported. Historically, it had particular success with Lambrusco Amabile in the USA. The top export markets are the UK, USA, Mexico, Germany and France. In recent years, its turnover has risen by around 50 per cent (2010/11–2017/18), much of this growth due to sparkling wine.

Answer 3

Franciacorta is Italy’s largest producing region for traditional method sparkling wine, principally made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is located in Lombardy in central northern Italy. It has pitched its wines to be ‘Italian-made’ competition for very good to outstanding quality Champagne, with high standards for viticulture and winemaking required. The wines typically have ripe apple and peach fruit and prominent biscuit-like, autolytic notes, medium alcohol and medium (+) acidity. They are typically very good or outstanding in quality and premium- priced. Still white and red wines made in the same area are labelled as Curtefranca DOC, but they are not considered further here.

Answer 4

The vineyards are in a compact zone mostly surrounded by low hills, with Lake Iseo at the northern boundary. CLIMATE The climate is warm continental with moderating influences. Cool air descends in summer from the Alps that are to the north of the region. Lake Iseo also exercises a moderating effect on daily and seasonal temperature ranges, though spring frost can be an issue in the most difficult years (e.g. 2017). The climate contributes to fruit that ripens regularly while retaining its acidity. Most vineyard land is on gentle slopes. The region has adequate rainfall, with nearly half of it falling in autumn and winter. Rain during spring can lead to problems with flowering and fruit set, and during the season in general to the need to combat downy mildew and botrytis. Many growers also have irrigation installed and can use it if necessary. Picking is early (second half of August into September), thereby avoiding autumn rain, but having a shorter ripening period than Trento. Vintage variation is limited – the rainy and cool 2014 being the exception.

Answer 5

The soils are mixed owing to their formation through the action of glaciers. Six main soil types have been identified, which give a range of expression in the base wines that are then used for blending to add complexity in the wines. The different soils variously emphasise the floral notes, the dried fruit notes and the spicy and vegetal notes.

Answer 6

Plantings are dominated by Chardonnay (75 per cent). Pinot Noir is also widely grown, and some Pinot Blanc continues to be grown, though little is being planted. Regulations require a minimum planting density for new vineyards of 4,500 plants/ ha. Heavy cropping training systems (e.g. pergola and Geneva Double Curtain) are now prohibited. Since the 1990s, cordon training with spur pruning or head training with replacement-cane pruning (Guyot) have become the norm. Many estates (about 75 per cent) are organic and the region aspires to be 100 per cent organic. There are very few growers and no co-operatives. As a result, nearly all the grapes are estate-grown. Typically, these estates have the resources and motivation to grow high quality grapes, contributing to the general high quality of the wines.

Answer 7

Fruit for white wine must be whole bunch pressed (as required by the regulations) to ensure high-quality juice with low phenolic content. (However, the Pinot Noir for rosé wines and for red wines (for blending to make rosé) can be destemmed.) The maximum permitted yield after pressing is limited to 65 hL/ha. Most producers ferment and age wines in stainless steel to preserve primary fruit. For added complexity, especially in Millesimato and Riserva wines, a proportion of some wines may be fermented and/or aged in old oak. Practice varies with regard to whether or not wines go through malolactic conversion. For smaller producers, the use of reserve wines is rare, though larger producers do use reserve wines for extra complexity and depth of flavour. Most wines are in practice vintage wines, though most will not be labelled as such because of the long time on lees required by wines sold as Millesimato (vintage, see next section). The wines must be made by the traditional method and the minimum time on lees is relatively high (18 months for basic non-vintage wines, see next section). This minimum is often exceeded significantly, meaning that the weight of fruit is matched by noticeable biscuit-like autolytic aromas.

Answer 8

The following styles are allowed within the DOCG: Non-vintage – These wines are typically Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blends that may also have up to 50 per cent Pinot Blanco. They must have a minimum of 18 months on lees. As stated, in reality these wines are often made from the fruit of a single vintage. Satèn – This style can only be made from white grapes (in practice mostly 100 per cent Chardonnay). The wines must have a minimum of 24 months on the lees and be made with slightly less sugar at tirage, resulting in a pressure of not more than five atmospheres. They may only be made in a Brut style. Rosé – This style must be a minimum of 35 per cent Pinot Noir and most examples are blends of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Producers are free to extract colour from Pinot Noir either by direct pressing or by short maceration on the skins. Blending with red wine is also permitted. A minimum of 24 months on the lees is required. Millesimato – These are wines with the vintage declared. They must be made with a minimum of 85 per cent of fruit from that year and spend a minimum of 30 months on the lees. Riserva – These are millesimato wines that have spent a minimum of 60 months on the lees. The standard EU categories for dryness/sweetness apply, including dosaggio zero (Brut Nature). It is noticeable that in practice the dosage is frequently at a lower level than would generally be expected for wines labelled at that sweetness (e.g. Brut may be 6g/L or less).

Answer 9

Franciacorta was among the earliest regions to receive its DOC and was later promoted to DOCG. Since 2003, it has had the right to print simply ‘Franciacorta’ on the label, on the model of Champagne. The key production features of the DOCG have been covered in grape growing and winemaking above. The Franciacorta Consorzio is a well-supported body that represents virtually all producers. It has carried out zoning studies to help growers understand the types of soils better with a view to continuing to raise quality. Production is divided between three large companies who between them produce about one-third of all Franciacorta (the pioneer Guido Berlucchi, Ca’ del Bosco and Bellavista) and many medium and small-sized estates. Total production more than doubled in the ten years from 2007 to 2016 (17.5 million bottles sold in 2018). Distribution is 90 per cent in Italy (predominantly in the hospitality sector) and 10 per cent export. The principal export markets are, in this order, Switzerland, Japan, Germany and USA, which account for more than 60 per cent of exports.

Answer 10

Trentodoc is the trademarked name for bottle-fermented sparkling wine made from the classic Champagne varieties (especially Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) grown in the Trentino region of northern Italy under the DOC Trento. It is named after Trento, the main town of the region. Giulio Ferrari is credited with making the first traditional method sparkling wine with Chardonnay grapes in Italy in 1902, having visited the Champagne area. The grapes are grown on hillside sites below high mountains. While many of the wines are 100 per cent Chardonnay, they can also include Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Meunier. The wines typically have ripe apple fruit and biscuit-like, autolytic notes, and medium alcohol balanced by medium (+) to high acidity. The wines are typically very good to outstanding in quality and are sold for premium and super-premium prices.

Answer 11

Located in the north of Italy and in sight of the Alps, Trentino has a warm, continental climate but with marked cooling influences. Daytime summer temperatures can be high because of the mountains offering protection from cold winds coming from the north and heat building up on the valley floor between the high mountains during the growing season. All these factors contribute to higher daytime temperatures than might be expected this far north and with this altitude (see Vineyard Management below). However, there is high diurnal range due to cold air descending from the mountains at night. This enables grapes to retain the acidity that is particularly important for sparkling wine.

Answer 12

Soils in general are stony and well drained and become poorer in nutrients on the steeper slopes, all contributing to slow steady growth. This results in wines with high flavour intensity.

Answer 13

The vineyards for Trentodoc are typically on slopes above the valley floor in the range of 400–700 m, but with a few vineyards at higher elevations. These elevations (giving a high diurnal range) mean that the fruit takes longer to ripen, building up flavour intensity while retaining acidity, and the harvest is normally two weeks later than in Franciacorta. Working on the hillsides and steep slopes adds considerable extra cost, as most work has to be done by hand. Vines are trained either to Guyot on sloping vineyards or with the pergola system on the steeper, terraced vineyards, with planting densities around 4,500–6,000 plants per hectare. Chardonnay is planted on cooler sites (for longer, cooler ripening) and Pinot Noir on the warmer south- and south-east facing slopes. The main diseases are the two forms of mildew and botrytis, depending on weather conditions. The lowest slopes and valley floor are susceptible to frost in spring. Winemakers will usually determine a picking date by acidity (e.g. pH 3.2) and the harvest normally starts in early September.

Answer 14

Yields are limited to 105 hL/ha, but many producers crop at lower levels. First fermentation is normally in stainless steel, and malolactic conversion takes place because acidity is typically higher here than in Franciacorta. The DOC regulations require that the wines must be made by the traditional method. Cultured yeasts are common, including local strains isolated by the oenology school in the region. Some companies use small amounts of reserve wines in their non-vintage blends. Minimum ageing on the lees is 15 months, but the common practice is for much longer (20–30 months is frequent for more evident toasty notes). Vintage wines must spend a minimum of 24 months on the lees and Riserva wines a minimum of 36 months (but in practice 5–10 years is frequent). These longer times on the lees contribute to the cost of production. With regard to sweetness levels, Trento and Trento Rosato can go from Brut Nature to Dolce (though most are Brut), while Trento Riserva (white and Rosato) may be Brut Nature to Brut only.

Answer 15

The features of the DOC have been covered in the winemaking details above. There are 54 producers and numerous small growers. In terms of volumes, four companies produce 95 per cent of the sparkling wine. * Ferrari is the single biggest and most dominant producer. It makes wine from the fruit of its own 100 hectares and from bought in fruit from 500 hectares of the denomination’s 800 hectares * Two major co-operatives have important sparkling wine brands: Rotari (for the Mezzocorona co-operative) and Altemasi (for the Cavit co-operative) * The fourth is Cesarini Sforza, now a part of the La Vis co-operative group. Sales have increased from 7m bottles in 2010 to 9m in 2019. Trentodoc has a long-standing focus on the Italian market that accounts for 80 per cent of sales. An exception is Cavit, which only sells 35 per cent in Italy with most of its wine going to northern Europe, especially Sweden. Recent initiatives have begun to promote Trentodoc in export markets. For example, Trentodoc has become a sponsor of the Institute of Masters of Wine with a view to making the name better known in the trade worldwide. The Trentodoc trademark was created in 2007. The two ‘O’s in the trademarked name are designed to be reminiscent of the process of riddling.