Sparkling Wine in Italy

Question 1

Tell us about Sparkling Wines in Italy?

Answer 1

Sparkling wine is made in most Italian regions, often for a local market. This study guide covers Prosecco, Asti, Lambrusco, Franciacorta and Trentodoc.

In recent years, Italy has become a major producer of sparkling wine due to worldwide demand for Prosecco. As a result, Italy overtook France as the largest exporter of sparkling wine by volume in 2009 and has consolidated that position since then. (France remains the largest exporter by value.)

Within Italy, there are two sectors:

Tank method – 96 per cent of Italian sparkling wine production is made by the tank method and half of this was Prosecco. The tank method for sparkling wine was developed in Italy in the late 1880s (named after Martinotti) and refined by the Frenchman, Charmat. Prosecco and Lambrusco are mainly made by this method. Asti uses a variation on the method. Tank method wines are classified depending on their level of pressure in the bottle: either as spumante (minimum 3 bar of pressure) or frizzante (1–2.5 bar).

Traditional method – The remaining 4 per cent is split primarily between Franciacorta (17.5 million bottles, 2018) and Trentodoc (7 million bottles, 2017). Together, the entire traditional method sector is one-tenth of the size of Champagne production.

Question 2

Tell us about Prosecco?

Answer 2

Prosecco is principally made from the Glera grape variety grown in north-east Italy and made with the tank method. It has light to medium (-) intensity apple and pear, a light body, medium to medium (+) acidity and low or medium alcohol. In terms of sweetness, the wines range from Brut to Demi- Sec, with Extra Dry being the most common style. They are produced in both fully sparkling (spumante) and lower pressure (frizzante) styles.

The wines are mainly acceptable to good quality in the Prosecco DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and good to very good quality in the DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) area. The DOC wines are mainly of light intensity, while the DOCG wines typically show medium intensity and greater definition and range of primary fruit than the DOC wines (pear, apple, peach). The price of DOC wines is mainly mid-priced with some inexpensive examples in supermarkets. The DOCG wines are mainly mid-priced, with a few wines at premium prices.

Prosecco has been a huge commercial success that in turn has led to the revision of the DOC/DOCG regulations in 2009. Since then, there have been the following PDOs:

Question 3

Tell us about Prosecco DOC?

Answer 3

The former IGTs (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) devoted to Prosecco, covering nine entire provinces in the regions of the Veneto and Friuli, were combined and expanded to become this vast DOC from Trieste to Vicenza, with plantings now at 23,000 ha. While the denomination includes mountains and hills, the grapes are overwhelmingly grown on the plain. The geographical indications Treviso or Trieste may be added to Prosecco DOC if the grapes have been grown and the wine made within these two areas. From the point of view of volume of production, Treviso is much more important.

Question 4

Tell us about Conegliano valdobbiadene – Prosecco DOCG?

Answer 4

The hilly, historic area between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene (7,700 ha) in the Veneto, was promoted from DOC to DOCG. Most vineyards are between 200–320m. The name of the DOCG is Conegliano Valdobbiadene – Prosecco. Producers must use either or both names of the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Within the spumante category, the term ‘Superiore’ may be added and/or ‘Prosecco’ omitted. In this case, Superiore is part of the name of the wine and implies no difference in terms of winemaking (e.g., it does not require a higher alcohol level). From here on, the abbreviation Prosecco DOCG is used to refer to this denomination.

Question 5

Tell us about Asolo Prosecco DOCG?

Answer 5

This is a separate DOCG of more than 1,800 ha in the hilly area south of Valdobbiadene. Within the spumante category, the term ‘Superiore’ may be added.

The principal variety now officially known as Glera was previously known as Prosecco. The name was changed so that Prosecco could be used to designate defined areas that were entitled to use the name and to prevent other regions or countries from exploiting the success of the name.

Production volumes in the three denominations are summarized in the following chart:

Prosecco DOCG: 16%
Asolo DOCG: 2%
Prosecco DOC: 82%

Question 6

Explain the climate and soils in Prosecco?

Answer 6

The climate in Prosecco DOC in general is warm and moderately continental, with moderate rainfall. The flat plain is affected by moist air and fog from the rivers of the region, increasing the number of sprays needed to combat disease. In the hillier area of Prosecco DOCG there are cooling influences coming from altitude itself and the higher diurnal temperature ranges, which make for longer, slower ripening. As a result, wines from the DOCG area can have higher acidity and more intense fruit flavours.

Soils across this very large region vary considerably, but, in general, they are more fertile on the plain, contributing to higher yields and lighter intensity wines.

Question 7

Explain the grape varities for Prosecco?

Answer 7

Glera is a vigorous, semi-aromatic variety capable of very high yields. It is susceptible to millerandage, to powdery and downy mildew, to drought in summer and to grapevine yellows. As the first two buds do not bear much fruit, it has to be trained long, typically on vertically trellised systems with 8–12 buds (see the next section). Low to medium planting densities (3,000 plants per hectare) are normal due to the vigour of the variety. The permitted yields are high – see Wine Law and Wine Business.

Scientific research has identified three varieties called Prosecco, but in practice, these are normally blended.

While many wines are 100 per cent Glera, up to 15 per cent of other local varieties or certain international varieties are permitted.

Question 8

Explain the training, pruning and trellising for Prosecco?

Answer 8

Common options for Glera are Sylvoz, double- arched cane and single or double Guyot.

Sylvoz – This is a high cordon system with shoots that hang downwards. It is well suited to high vigour sites such as on the fertile, flatter land of Prosecco DOC and where the aim is for high yields, but it is sometimes used in the DOCG. It is inexpensive to create initially, minimises winter pruning and is suitable for machine harvesting, all of which reduces cost. The height of the cordon provides some protection from frost.
The disadvantages are that it may encourage over cropping, it requires careful monitoring and trimming of the canopy to avoid excessive shading and it is difficult to distribute the clusters evenly.

Double-arched cane – This is a form of replacement cane pruning where the canes are bent into arches. This improves the evenness of growth and the fruitfulness of Glera and it increases the ventilation of the canopy, reducing the incidence of fungal diseases. This system is very common on the hillside sites of Prosecco DOCG where high fruit quality is the main aim. The disadvantages are that individual branches must be tied in on every plant (adding to cost) and care must be taken to maintain an open canopy by repeated shoot thinning.

Guyot – This form of training is used on the flatter land where, after winter pruning, it is possible to work with machines, reducing cost.

Question 9

Explain the vineyard management in the DOC?

Answer 9

In general, work in the vineyard and harvesting on the flatter land of Prosecco DOC can be done by machine. The vineyards are large and there are considerable economies of scale. High yields of grapes on the plains lead to wines of lower concentration. In the DOC, mechanical harvest is the norm, saving on cost.

Question 10

Explain the vineyard management in the DOCG?

Answer 10

The best wines in the DOCG come from south-facing hillside sites leading to more concentration in the final wine. This is due to reduced fertility (poorer soils and better drainage than on flatter sites) with greater day/night temperature differences and therefore slower growth. Consequently, there is a longer season for flavours to develop in the grapes and higher acidity. Lower, but still generous, yields in the DOCG area lead to higher concentration of flavours. The steepest parts of the DOCG the land is terraced with grassy banks called ciglione. These must be maintained and repaired, adding cost.

Work has to be done by hand in the steeper parts of the hills of the DOCG area, at higher cost. In the DOCG, producers choose whether to pick by hand (adding cost) and or whether to machine harvest. Fruit for DOCG wines in the categories Cartizze, Rive and sui lieviti must be picked by hand.

Question 11

Explain the winemaking for Prosecco?

Answer 11

If the grapes have been picked by hand, then the winemaker can choose either to press whole bunches (which some believe preserves primary fruit flavours). Otherwise, grapes are destemmed and pressed.

Fermentation of the base wine lasts for 15–20 days at a controlled temperature of around 18°C (64°F) to preserve primary fruit. Malolactic conversion is blocked for the same reason and to retain acidity. Second fermentation in tank takes one month at 12–15°C (54–59°F), again to preserve the primary fruit. After a short time on the lees (a few weeks), the wines are then chilled, filtered and bottled. There is no requirement to age the wines (for both DOC and DOCG wines) as the emphasis is on freshness.

Traditionally, Prosecco has been made without final adjustment of the sweetness (i.e. no dosage). The winemaker calculates how much sugar is required as tirage to provide both the required level of CO2 (spumante or frizzante) and the sugar that will remain in the final bottled wine (Brut, Extra Dry, Dry). However, since 2014 it has been possible to adjust the sweetness when the wine is racked off the lees of second fermentation.

Some quality-focused winemakers, especially in the DOCG area, slow the process of second fermentation down (by lowering the temperature) or age the wine on the lees for a few months for extra complexity. There are a few examples of a longer form of tank method, Charmat lungo, conventionally regarded as keeping the wine in contact with the lees for at least 9 months. Contact with the lees is ensured by agitating the lees with an insert within the tank.

Question 12

What other styles of Prosecco are there?

Answer 12

Prosecco Col Fondo
This is a traditional style typically producing lightly cloudy, dry wines in a frizzante style. It is a labelling term that can apply to either DOC or DOCG wines. The phrase rifermentazione in bottiglia (refermentation in the bottle) must appear on the bottle. Second fermentation is in the bottle and the wine is left undisgorged and is bone dry. It is typically finished with a crown cap and contains sediment. It can be aged for a short time. Production levels are tiny, but, as with Pet Nat, it is fashionable in some wine bars and specialist wine retailers. The traditional name for this style is Col Fondo, but from 2020 the Prosecco DOCG regulations will require the wines to be called sui lieviti (on the lees).

Tranquillo
A tiny amount of still wine is made, labelled Tranquillo.

Question 13

Explain the wine law for Prosecco?

Answer 13

All Prosecco categories require the wine to be made with a minimum of 85 per cent Glera. High yields are permitted with lower limits for the higher quality denominations:

• Prosecco DOC – maximum yield is 125 hL/ha

• Prosecco DOCG – maximum yield is 94.5 hL/ha;
– if with a mention of a ‘Rive’, 90 hL/ha
– Superiore di Cartizze DOCG or Cartizze – maximum yield is 85 hL/ha

• Asolo Prosecco DOCG – maximum yield is 94.5 hL/ha, the same as Prosecco DOCG There are no minimum ageing requirements, as the aim is to express the primary fruit in the wine. The wine must be sold in bottle. If labelled with a vintage, then the wine must be 85 per cent of that vintage.

Rive + place name – Rive is a local word meaning slope of a steep hill and is followed by a place name (e.g. Rive di Soligo), the name being a single commune or vineyard. In addition, the grapes must be grown in one of 43 Rive; picked by hand; harvested at lower maximum yields and the vintage must be shown on the label.

Superiore di Cartizze DOCG or Cartizze DOCG – A historic, delimited single-vineyard of 108 hectares located in Valdobbiadene with a requirement for a lower yield and only made in the spumante style. With steep hillsides with vineyards on slopes with very good drainage, this has traditionally been regarded as the highest quality area, producing wines with a fuller body and, normally, residual sugar above the level of Brut. The word Prosecco is not normally used in conjunction with Cartizze, thus the bottles are labelled either Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG or Valdobbiadene Cartizze DOCG.

Question 14

Explain the wine business for Prosecco?

Answer 14

Prosecco (both DOC and DOCG) has seen outstanding growth recently, led by exports. Asolo has expanded rapidly to more than 1,800 hectares. While production levels are small compared to the other two denominations, production rose from 1,000,000 to more than 12 million bottles in the period 2013–2018.

Prosecco DOC
Prosecco DOC accounts for roughly half of Italy’s considerable sparkling wine production on its own and has led Italy to become the world leader in the export of sparkling wine by volume. It more than doubled in production between 2011 and 2016. Three-quarters of the wine produced is spumante, one-quarter frizzante.

The average size of vineyard holdings is rising, but still averages around 2.5 hectares, with many growers selling their grapes to merchants and co-operatives. There are roughly 10,000 growers, but only 1,200 producers of base wine and only 350 makers of sparkling wine, including large companies such as Zonin. Co-operatives account for just over half of the fruit grown, while private companies bottle three-quarters of the wine. In other words, co-operatives make large volumes of base wine that they sell to private companies to finish. Treviso is both the most important area for the volume of production and for the sale of base wines to the bottling companies. As noted, the name Treviso can appear on labels after Prosecco DOC as long as the fruit is grown and the entire production takes place in the Treviso province.

The domestic market (25 per cent by volume) has seen steady growth. Roughly half is sold in the hospitality sector and half via retail. Exports (75 per cent) tripled in the decade to 2014. The main exports markets are the UK, the USA and Germany. These three markets account for nearly two thirds of all exports by volume.
In these large markets, Prosecco has become a brand and is seen as an everyday luxury. In some markets, it appears to be bought as an alternative to the cheapest discounted Champagne or as an alternative to still, inexpensive and mid-priced rosé. The popularity of Prosecco cocktails has also contributed to this growth. After the substantial growth of recent times, the aim is now to stabilise and maintain the current levels of sales in the face of increasing competition.

In 2019, DOC Prosecco added the Brut Nature and Extra Brut categories aimed at those who are looking for a drier style. As a result, Prosecco will be sold in the full range from Brut Nature to Demi-Sec. There are also plans for a Prosecco rosé, currently not allowed within the DOC, with Pinot Noir grapes providing the colour.

A challenge for Prosecco DOC has been to protect the name. Some Australian growers (for example in the King Valley) are continuing to use the name Prosecco for their Glera-based sparkling wines. All the Prosecco denominations require the wines to be sold in bottle only and they have been vigilant to stop other sparkling wines being sold on tap as Prosecco.

Conegliano valdobbiadene – Prosecco DOCG
For Prosecco DOCG wines, Extra Dry is the most common style (around 60 per cent) followed by Brut (around 30 per cent). In 2019, the DOCG introduced an Extra Brut category (0–6 g/L).

The 32 large companies each producing more than 1 million bottles a year account for nearly 90 per cent of production. 60 per cent of the DOCG wine is sold in Italy (the largest sales are in northern Italy) and 40 per cent is exported. While sales in Italy have continued to grow, exports have outperformed them. The top three markets are Germany, UK and Switzerland. Significant producers among many include Nino Franco and Bisol.

The challenges for the DOCG are to improve recognition of its potentially higher quality wine among consumers who see Prosecco as a generic brand and to achieve a higher price for their wine. With the DOCG region now fully planted, continued growth depends on achieving higher prices. Thus far, the DOCG has seen excellent growth in both volume and price.

Question 15

Tell us about Asti?

Answer 15

Asti DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG are sparkling, low alcohol wines made from Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains) grown in a single delimited area within three provinces of Piemonte: Asti, Alexandria and Cuneo. The vast majority are made by the tank method. Both wines are made by a modification of the tank method, commonly referred to as the Asti method. The wines have pronounced aromas and flavours of orange blossom, grapes and peach. They have medium acidity, and most examples are low alcohol and sweet. Asti DOCG (also known as Asti Spumante) is typically slightly higher in alcohol and fully sparkling. Moscato d’Asti DOCG is lower in alcohol, is semi-sparkling and typically has higher residual sugar than Asti DOCG. The two wines are of good to very good quality and tend to be inexpensive or mid-priced.

Question 16

Tell us about the growing environment and grape growing for Asti?

Answer 16

The climate in the area covered by the Asti DOCG is moderate continental with cold winters and hot, dry summers. There is adequate rainfall with spring and autumn as the rainiest seasons. The former can affect fruit set.

The regulations require the grapes to be grown on hillside sites (for better sunlight interception and better drainage) with a preference for limestone and clay soils. Maximum yields are restricted to 75 hL/ha for tank method wines.

Moscato Bianco, the Italian name for Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains, is an aromatic, early budding, mid-ripening variety with a small berry size. It is prone to powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot and therefore needs careful canopy management to avoid shade and enhance air circulation. It has a thin skin and, due to its scent, is attractive to bees, wasps and flying ants, which feed on the fruit. It is also susceptible to mites. Clonal selection has sought to make it more resistant to disease, perfumed and higher yielding.

In this area, it is planted at medium density and typically trained with the Guyot system with vertical shoot positioning. Guyot is the preferred system as, in combination with low fertility soils and moderate rainfall, the vine does not over crop. VSP ensures good exposure to sunlight, avoiding excessive humidity, and thereby reducing risk of fungal disease and ensuring good ripening of the fruit. In hot years, growers have to be careful not to remove too many leaves to avoid sunburn to the fruit.

The most aromatic juice is obtained from grapes grown on the limestone soils, but, due to its commercial success, vines have also been planted on clay.

Harvest date is decided by ripeness of the fruit with desired acidity, as the acidity is needed to balance the high sweetness of the final wine. Harvest takes place in early to mid- September, normally well before the October rains. For Asti, grapes are picked slightly earlier to ensure high acidity; for Moscato d’Asti, they are picked slightly later for the high aromatic intensity. Hand harvesting is required on the steeper slopes or where whole bunches are desired. Mechanical harvesting is an option increasingly used (as it is much cheaper) where it is possible.

Question 17

Explain winemaking for Asti?

Answer 17

If whole bunches have been picked, then these can be whole bunch pressed which some believe produces the best quality. If grapes are destemmed first or picked by machine, they are pressed at this point as rapidly as possible in order to minimise oxidation. The must is then clarified.

Much production of Asti and Moscato d’Asti takes place in two separate phases and often on two different sites. The first phase is the production, clarification and filtration of the must followed by chilling and storage. Must that is not required immediately is refrigerated (to 2–3°C / 36–37°F) to be maintained in the freshest possible condition for fermentation later when there is demand. The idea is to release wine with the freshest primary fruit flavours throughout the year. Once clarified and chilled, grape must can be kept for up to two years without losing the fresh and fruity aromatics. The second phase is a single fermentation of the warmed-up must when required by demand.

This approach means that large investments are required for presses, flotation tanks, filtration or centrifuge equipment and large heat exchangers and refrigerated storage space. Ongoing energy costs are also high due to the power needed for the machinery and the chilled storage.

Fermentation takes place in pressure-resistant temperature-controlled tanks at low temperatures (16–18°C/61–64°F) to preserve the primary fruit. For the same reason, neutral cultured yeasts are preferred. Malolactic conversion is prevented to preserve acidity.

Asti and Moscato d’Asti is made into a sparkling wine through a single fermentation in tanks that can sustain pressure. The sugar, which is converted into CO2, comes from the sugar in the original must, not through later tirage. Similarly, residual sugar present in the final wine comes from stopping the fermentation before dryness, not through dosage.

At the start, the CO2 produced as part of the fermentation is released through a valve in the tank. The fermenting must will be monitored regularly to check on the falling sugar levels. The amount of sugar required to give the desired pressure (whether frizzante or spumante) and leave the desired final level of residual sugar in the wine is calculated and, once this level is reached, the valve in the tank is closed and the CO2 from the fermentation is retained. Once the desired residual sugar levels and pressure is obtained, the fermentation is stopped by rapidly chilling the wine and filtering it under pressure to remove the yeast.

The wine is released after a few weeks and intended to be drunk young.

Question 18

Explain Asti DOCG?

Answer 18

For Asti DOCG, the final alcohol traditionally used to be in the range of 6–8% abv, resulting in wines that are sweet (around 100g/L residual sugar). Recent modifications to the Asti DOCG regulations, however, now make the final alcohol level open-ended above a 6% lower limit, thus enabling dryer styles of Asti. Regulations now permit the style of the wine to range from Extra Dry to Dolce (sweet), in effect 12g/L and above. The category Brut Nature is in the process of being approved.

Official production methods now also allow for Asti Metodo Classico. This wine must spend a minimum of nine months on the lees in bottle and must be Dolce in sweetness (i.e. above 50 g/L residual sugar).

Question 19

Explain Moscato d’Asti DOCG?

Answer 19

For Moscato d’Asti DOCG, the final alcohol has to be 4.5–6.5% abv. This results in wines that are sweeter than Asti DOCG (around 130g/L residual sugar). Moscato d’Asti must not exceed 2.5 atmospheres in pressure; in other words, it is frizzante in style.

Question 20

Explain the wine law and wine business for Asti?

Answer 20

The main points of the DOCGs have been covered above.

As noted, the production of Asti and Moscato d’Asti requires high levels of equipment and storage space. This adds significantly to the cost of production. It also means that most of the wine is made by very large producers. Four companies, of which Martini & Rossi is the largest, produce more than 60 per cent of all the wine produced. Smaller producers, including very high-quality producers in Barolo and Barbaresco, typically send the Moscato grapes they grow to specialist sparkling wine firms to be made into wine or buy high quality grapes for the wines to be made by a specialist for them and sold under the produce’s own label.

Co-operatives play a very important role in the region, providing chilled, clarified and filtered juice to the large companies who then carry out the fermentation. For example, Martini & Rossi source about 35 per cent of their needs from 300 growers who deliver fruit to be pressed at its own pressing/chilling station, while the rest of the juice required comes from a number of suppliers including co-operatives.

For marketing purposes, the Consorzio is now promoting three types of Asti wine: Moscato d’Asti, Asti Secco (i.e. an off-dry style) and Asti, which can also be called Asti Dolce (the traditional sweet wine). The introduction of Asti Secco allows the region to complete in the popular off-dry sector for wines, such as Prosecco, that are suited to dryer styles of aperitif and casual drinking than traditional Asti.

The Asti consortium belongs to the overarching promotional body, Piemonte Land of Perfection that also represents prestigious denominations such as Barolo, Barbaresco and Gavi.

The fashion for Moscato in the USA since 2009 led to a doubling of Moscato d’Asti production and export. By contrast, the large majority of Asti is sold in Europe. The proportion of Asti to Moscato d’Asti has stayed broadly the same in the period 2013 to 2018 (70 per cent Asti, 30 per cent Moscato d’Asti.)

Question 21

Tell us about Lambrusco?

Answer 21

Lambrusco is the name of the mainly red, made by the tank method, spumante or frizzante wines made from the family of Lambrusco varieties principally in Emilia-Romagna in central Italy and situated close to the River Po. The red wines have strawberry, red cherry and red plum fruit, medium to medium (+) tannins, high acidity and, usually, residual sugar. The colour of the wine ranges from pale pink to deep ruby. The quality is mainly acceptable to good with a small number of very good examples and the range in prices is from inexpensive to mid-priced.

Question 22

Explain the growing environment and grape growing for Lambrusco?

Answer 22

Lambrusco is mainly grown inland in the former region of Emilia. This area became the western part of the current region, Emilia- Romagna. The region has low hills of around 150 m of altitude. The climate is warm and continental with adequate rainfall (735 mm) for grape growing, though with some threat of rain at harvest time. Irrigation is used to ensure an adequate water supply at critical points.

The soils are alluvial, predominantly clay and silt. They have good water-holding capacity but are prone to compaction. Many vineyards are grassed between rows to allow access by machines in wet periods and to reduce compaction. The high fertility of the soils in combination with the varieties grown lead to very high yields. The most common forms of vine training are cordon trained (e.g. Sylvoz) and Geneva Double Curtain, suitable for high vigour vines and allowing full mechanisation.

Humidity on the river plain makes regular preventative spraying against fungal diseases a necessity, though the amount of spraying has been reduced through sustainable viticulture (better canopy management, close monitoring of weather forecasts to anticipate problems and acting preventatively). Grapevine yellows have posed an increasing threat in recent years. The threat is being tackled by rapid removal of affected plants and by controlling the vectors.

Question 23

Explain grape varieties and DOCs for Lambrusco?

Answer 23

The most important Lambrusco varieties are:

Lambrusco Salamino
This is the most widely planted variety. It produces fragrant, deep coloured, full-bodied wines with high acidity and is mostly blended with other Lambrusco varieties. There is also a DOC called Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce that requires a minimum of 85 per cent of this variety and allows a maximum yield of 133 hL/ha.

Lambrusco Grasparossa
This variety does best on clay and silt and is the only variety to be grown mainly on the hillsides. It produces deep coloured, full-bodied wine with medium (+) tannins. The DOC for this variety is named Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro. It requires a minimum of 85 per cent of this variety and allows a maximum yield of 126 hL/ha.

Lambrusco di Sorbara
This variety makes pale, lighter bodied wines with high acidity. Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC requires a minimum of 60 percentage of this variety and allows a maximum yield of 126 hL/ha.

Two further DOCs are named after the provinces of Reggio-Emilia and Modena, not after the names of Lambrusco varieties. Reggiano Lambrusco or simply Reggiano DOC is a DOC made with Lambrusco varieties within a delimited area in the province of Reggio-Emilia. Maximum yields are 126 hL/ha. Lambrusco di Modena DOC or simply Modena DOC is made with Lambrusco varieties grown in the province of Modena. Regulations permit very high yields (161 hL/ha) that can lead to low levels of fruit concentration.

Question 24

Explain winemaking for Lambrusco?

Answer 24

Most wines are macerated on the skins for only 1–2 days, as the Lambrusco varieties have high levels of anthocyanins. This short maceration time also restricts the amount of tannin extracted. For more structured, fuller bodied wines, typically from Lambrusco Grasparossa grapes, the musts are kept on the skins for 3–4 days. First fermentation is at low temperatures for red wines of 18–20°C (64– 68°F) to retain primary fruit aromas. Unusually for red wines, malolactic conversion is blocked to preserve high acidity.

The great majority of wines are made by the tank method. Second fermentation at low temperatures (12–15°C/54–59°F) typically takes two weeks for frizzante wines and one month for spumante. There is no further maturation on the lees as the aim is to preserve the primary fruit character. There is no dosage of dryer styles (zero dosage to Brut), while sweet wines either have the fermentation stopped at the desired sweetness level and/or are sweetened by blending with must or RCGM. The production process enables large volumes of wine to be made and to be ready for release quickly at inexpensive prices.

Some traditional method wines are also made, as are undisgorged bottle-fermented wines (ancestral method).

Question 25

Explain wine law and wine business for Lambrusco?

Answer 25

The principal DOCs have been covered above. In addition, spumante and frizzante wines made from Lambrusco varieties can be labelled as IGT Emilia. For spumante wines, the DOC wines make up 25–30 per cent of production and the rest is IGT.

The DOCs require a minimum 11% abv for spumante and 10.5% abv for frizzante wines. However, wines in the amabile or dolce styles are permitted to have a minimum of only 7% abv. They must have a minimum potential alcohol of 10.5-11% abv.

Labelling terms and sweetness levels are different for spumante wines and frizzante wines. Spumante wines are labelled according to the standard EU categories for sparkling wine. Frizzante wines have fewer sweetness categories (secco/asciutto, abboccato, amabile), with each category encompassing a broader range of sweetness.

The average size of properties remains small (less than three ha). However, that average size has more than doubled since 2000 as some growers left the industry and sold their land to others. Most growers take their fruit to be vinified in the co-operatives or larger private wineries.
Lambrusco is sold both in Italy (one-third) and in export markets (two-thirds; 2016 figures). In Italy, sales are principally in supermarkets and in the hospitality sector; a small proportion, typically the higher quality wines, is sold through specialist wine shops.

Some very good quality examples are made with concentrated and well-defined fruit (e.g. by Cleto Chiarli). However, Lambrusco has struggled to throw off the ‘inexpensive, red, frothy and sweet’ tag. This reputation is in part due to poor quality wines being exported in large volumes in the past. Part of the issue is that ‘Lambrusco’ on its own is not a protected name. (This contrasts with the way that Prosecco protected its name by using the former grape name as the name of a denomination.) As a result, it is still possible to produce and sell inexpensive, low alcohol, wine-related drinks as Lambrusco, which has made it difficult to promote Lambrusco as a high-quality wine.

Question 26

Give us an example of consolidation in a sparkling wine company (Lambrusco)?

Answer 26

This is Italy’s largest wine company by value of turnover (2016) that specialises in Lambrusco and Prosecco. Cantine Riunite was created in 1950 by the merger of nine local wine co-operatives in the province of Reggio Emilia. It has since been joined by the CIV co-operatives in the province of Modena and currently has 1,800 members. In 2002, it bought the Prosecco producer Cantine Maschio and further bought the large co- operative Gruppo Italiano Vini (GIV) in 2008. As a result, it has a portfolio of Lambrusco, flavoured wine-based drinks, Prosecco and, since acquiring GIV, wines from across Italy.

The company as a whole sells around half its wine in Italy (predominantly via retailers, rather than the hospitality sector) and half is exported. Historically, it had particular success with Lambrusco Amabile in the USA. The top export markets are the UK, USA, Mexico, Germany and France. In recent years, its turnover has risen by around 50 per cent (2010/11–2017/18), much of this growth due to sparkling wine.

Question 27

Tell us about Franciacorta?

Answer 27

Franciacorta is Italy’s largest producing region for traditional method sparkling wine, principally made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is located in Lombardy in central northern Italy. It has pitched its wines to be ‘Italian-made’ competition for very good to outstanding quality Champagne, with high standards for viticulture and winemaking required. The wines typically have ripe apple and peach fruit and prominent biscuit-like, autolytic notes, medium alcohol and medium (+) acidity. They are typically very good or outstanding in quality and premium- priced. Still white and red wines made in the same area are labelled as Curtefranca DOC, but they are not considered further here.

Question 28

Explain the climate for Franciacorta?

Answer 28

The vineyards are in a compact zone mostly surrounded by low hills, with Lake Iseo at the northern boundary.

CLIMATE
The climate is warm continental with moderating influences. Cool air descends in summer from the Alps that are to the north of the region. Lake Iseo also exercises a moderating effect on daily and seasonal temperature ranges, though spring frost can be an issue in the most difficult years (e.g. 2017). The climate contributes to fruit that ripens regularly while retaining its acidity. Most vineyard land is on gentle slopes.

The region has adequate rainfall, with nearly half of it falling in autumn and winter. Rain during spring can lead to problems with flowering and fruit set, and during the season in general to the need to combat downy mildew and botrytis. Many growers also have irrigation installed and can use it if necessary. Picking is early (second half of August into September), thereby avoiding autumn rain, but having a shorter ripening period than Trento. Vintage variation is limited – the rainy and cool 2014 being the exception.

Question 29

Explain soils in Franciacorta?

Answer 29

The soils are mixed owing to their formation through the action of glaciers. Six main soil types have been identified, which give a range of expression in the base wines that are then used for blending to add complexity in the wines. The different soils variously emphasise the floral notes, the dried fruit notes and the spicy and vegetal notes.

Question 30

Explain grape varieties and vineyard management for Franciacorta?

Answer 30

Plantings are dominated by Chardonnay
(75 per cent). Pinot Noir is also widely grown, and some Pinot Blanc continues to be grown, though little is being planted. Regulations require a minimum planting density for new vineyards of 4,500 plants/ ha. Heavy cropping training systems (e.g. pergola and Geneva Double Curtain) are now prohibited. Since the 1990s, cordon training with spur pruning or head training with replacement-cane pruning (Guyot) have become the norm.

Many estates (about 75 per cent) are organic and the region aspires to be 100 per cent organic. There are very few growers and no co-operatives. As a result, nearly all the grapes are estate-grown. Typically, these estates have the resources and motivation to grow high quality grapes, contributing to the general high quality of the wines.

Question 31

Explain the winemaking for Franciacorta?

Answer 31

Fruit for white wine must be whole bunch pressed (as required by the regulations) to ensure high-quality juice with low phenolic content. (However, the Pinot Noir for rosé wines and for red wines (for blending to make rosé) can be destemmed.) The maximum permitted yield after pressing is limited to 65 hL/ha. Most producers ferment and age wines in stainless steel to preserve primary fruit. For added complexity, especially in Millesimato and Riserva wines, a proportion of some wines may be fermented and/or aged in old oak. Practice varies with regard to whether or not wines go through malolactic conversion. For smaller producers, the use of reserve wines is rare, though larger producers do use reserve wines for extra complexity and depth of flavour. Most wines are in practice vintage wines, though most will not be labelled as such because of the long time on lees required by wines sold as Millesimato (vintage, see next section). The wines must be made by the traditional method and the minimum time on lees is relatively high (18 months for basic non-vintage wines, see next section). This minimum is often exceeded significantly, meaning that the weight of fruit is matched by noticeable biscuit-like autolytic aromas.

Question 32

What wine styles are there with Franciacorta?

Answer 32

The following styles are allowed within the DOCG:

Non-vintage – These wines are typically Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blends that may also have up to 50 per cent Pinot Blanco. They must have a minimum of 18 months on lees. As stated, in reality these wines are often made from the fruit of a single vintage.

Satèn – This style can only be made from white grapes (in practice mostly 100 per cent Chardonnay). The wines must have a minimum of 24 months on the lees and be made with slightly less sugar at tirage, resulting in a pressure of not more than five atmospheres. They may only be made in a Brut style.

Rosé – This style must be a minimum of 35 per cent Pinot Noir and most examples are blends of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Producers are free to extract colour from Pinot Noir either by direct pressing or by short maceration on the skins. Blending with red wine is also permitted. A minimum of 24 months on the lees is required.

Millesimato – These are wines with the vintage declared. They must be made with a minimum of 85 per cent of fruit from that year and spend a minimum of 30 months on the lees.

Riserva – These are millesimato wines that have spent a minimum of 60 months on the lees.

The standard EU categories for dryness/sweetness apply, including dosaggio zero (Brut Nature). It is noticeable that in practice the dosage is frequently at a lower level than would generally be expected for wines labelled at that sweetness (e.g. Brut may be 6g/L or less).

Question 33

Explain the wine law and wine business for Franciacorta?

Answer 33

Franciacorta was among the earliest regions to receive its DOC and was later promoted to DOCG. Since 2003, it has had the right to print simply ‘Franciacorta’ on the label, on the model of Champagne. The key production features of the DOCG have been covered in grape growing and winemaking above.

The Franciacorta Consorzio is a well-supported body that represents virtually all producers. It has carried out zoning studies to help growers understand the types of soils better with a view to continuing to raise quality.

Production is divided between three large companies who between them produce about one-third of all Franciacorta (the pioneer Guido Berlucchi, Ca’ del Bosco and Bellavista) and many medium and small-sized estates. Total production more than doubled in the ten years from 2007 to 2016 (17.5 million bottles sold in 2018). Distribution is 90 per cent in Italy (predominantly in the hospitality sector) and 10 per cent export. The principal export markets are, in this order, Switzerland, Japan, Germany and USA, which account for more than 60 per cent of exports.

Question 34

Tell us about Trentodoc?

Answer 34

Trentodoc is the trademarked name for bottle-fermented sparkling wine made from the classic Champagne varieties (especially Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) grown in the Trentino region of northern Italy under the DOC Trento. It is named after Trento, the main town of the region. Giulio Ferrari is credited with making the first traditional method sparkling wine with Chardonnay grapes in Italy in 1902, having visited the Champagne area. The grapes are grown on hillside sites below high mountains. While many of the wines are 100 per cent Chardonnay, they can also include Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Meunier.

The wines typically have ripe apple fruit and biscuit-like, autolytic notes, and medium alcohol balanced by medium (+) to high acidity. The wines are typically very good to outstanding in quality and are sold for premium and super-premium prices.

Question 35

Explain the climate in Trentodoc?

Answer 35

Located in the north of Italy and in sight of the Alps, Trentino has a warm, continental climate but with marked cooling influences. Daytime summer temperatures can be high because of the mountains offering protection from cold winds coming from the north and heat building up on the valley floor between the high mountains during the growing season. All these factors contribute to higher daytime temperatures than might be expected this far north and with this altitude (see Vineyard Management below). However, there is high diurnal range due to cold air descending from the mountains at night. This enables grapes to retain the acidity that is particularly important for sparkling wine.

Question 36

Explain the soils in Trentodoc?

Answer 36

Soils in general are stony and well drained and become poorer in nutrients on the steeper slopes, all contributing to slow steady growth. This results in wines with high flavour intensity.

Question 37

Explain the vineyard management for Trentodoc?

Answer 37

The vineyards for Trentodoc are typically on slopes above the valley floor in the range of 400–700 m, but with a few vineyards at higher elevations. These elevations (giving a high diurnal range) mean that the fruit takes longer to ripen, building up flavour intensity while retaining acidity, and the harvest is normally two weeks later than in Franciacorta. Working on the hillsides and steep slopes adds considerable extra cost, as most work has to be done by hand.

Vines are trained either to Guyot on sloping vineyards or with the pergola system on the steeper, terraced vineyards, with planting densities around 4,500–6,000 plants per hectare. Chardonnay is planted on cooler sites (for longer, cooler ripening) and Pinot Noir on the warmer south- and south-east facing slopes. The main diseases are the two forms of mildew and botrytis, depending on weather conditions. The lowest slopes and valley floor are susceptible to frost in spring. Winemakers will usually determine a picking date by acidity (e.g. pH 3.2) and the harvest normally starts in early September.

Question 38

Explain the winemaking for Trentodoc?

Answer 38

Yields are limited to 105 hL/ha, but many producers crop at lower levels. First fermentation is normally in stainless steel, and malolactic conversion takes place because acidity is typically higher here than in Franciacorta. The DOC regulations require that the wines must be made by the traditional method. Cultured yeasts are common, including local strains isolated by the oenology school in the region. Some companies use small amounts of reserve wines in their non-vintage blends.

Minimum ageing on the lees is 15 months, but the common practice is for much longer (20–30 months is frequent for more evident toasty notes). Vintage wines must spend a minimum of 24 months on the lees and Riserva wines a minimum of 36 months (but in practice 5–10 years is frequent). These longer times on the lees contribute to the cost of production.

With regard to sweetness levels, Trento and Trento Rosato can go from Brut Nature to Dolce (though most are Brut), while Trento Riserva (white and Rosato) may be Brut Nature to Brut only.

Question 39

Explain wine law and wine business for Trentodoc?

Answer 39

The features of the DOC have been covered in the winemaking details above. There are 54 producers and numerous small growers. In terms of volumes, four companies produce 95 per cent of the sparkling wine.

• Ferrari is the single biggest and most dominant producer. It makes wine from the fruit of its own 100 hectares and from bought in fruit from 500 hectares of the denomination’s 800 hectares
• Two major co-operatives have important sparkling wine brands: Rotari (for the Mezzocorona co-operative) and Altemasi (for the Cavit co-operative)
• The fourth is Cesarini Sforza, now a part of the La Vis co-operative group.

Sales have increased from 7m bottles in 2010 to 9m in 2019. Trentodoc has a long-standing focus on the Italian market that accounts for 80 per cent of sales. An exception is Cavit, which only sells 35 per cent in Italy with most of its wine going to northern Europe, especially Sweden. Recent initiatives have begun to promote Trentodoc in export markets. For example, Trentodoc has become a sponsor of the Institute of Masters of Wine with a view to making the name better known in the trade worldwide.

The Trentodoc trademark was created in 2007. The two ‘O’s in the trademarked name are designed to be reminiscent of the process of riddling.