Cava Flashcards
Tell us about Cava?
Traditional method sparkling wines have been made in Spain since the late nineteenth century, principally in or close to the city of Barcelona, in Cataluña in north-east Spain. The early pioneers included members of the Ferrer and Raventós families who founded the Freixenet and Codorníu groups of companies. These two companies are by far the biggest producers today.
The word Cava began to be used informally in the 1960s, as the industry recognised it would need a generic term for traditional method sparkling wine on the journey towards Spain’s eventual membership of the EU. Cava became enshrined in Spanish law in 1972 as a protected denomination for sparkling wines made by the traditional method. When Spain joined the EU in 1986, Cava was recognised as a quality sparkling wine produced in specific regions. In 1989, the EU authorities gave it PDO (protected designation of origin) status named after a wine, rather than a place. However, unusually for a PDO wine, grapes can be sourced from a number of different, unconnected areas. Wine production is regulated and overseen by the Consejo Regulador del Cava.
Traditionally, the wines were made from three local varieties: Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. Chardonnay is increasingly used in blends, though quality producers are also putting renewed emphasis on the local varieties.
Explain the location and climate for Cava?
Most grapes for Cava are grown and most Cava is produced within Penedès in Cataluña – more than 95 per cent in both cases. Grapes may also be grown and Cava produced in a number of areas other than Cataluña, for example, in parts of Rioja (500 km from Barcelona) or Valencia (350 km to the south of Barcelona).
There are significant differences between the locations in which Cava is made. The more important areas are Penedès, Lleida and Tarragona.
Tell us about Catluna - Penedes Region?
This is the main area of production and has a predominantly Mediterranean climate with bright, sunny summers, mild winters and moderate rainfall (540 mm) spread through the year. The vineyards range from the coast to higher altitudes inland with the largest extent being at 200–300 metres. A minority of vineyards are up to 700–800 metres above sea level. Here, summer nights can be distinctly chilly, producing grapes with more intense flavours and higher acidity than grapes grown at more typical, lower altitudes. The soils vary too, from alluvial soils and clay at lower altitudes to stony clay and granite sub-soils at higher altitudes. All soils types are relatively poor in nutrients, with adequate drainage and water retention making them suitable for viticulture.
These variations express themselves in the styles of wines made. For example, Macabeo- based wines made from grapes grown in higher altitude vineyards have more flavour and higher acidity than grapes grown closer to sea level, giving them an ability to age well in the bottle. There is a myriad of blending opportunities available to producers, making this the prime location for Cava production. For the Clàssic Penedès DO (Denominaciones de Origen), see Recent Developments in Cava and Other Spanish Sparkling Wines.
The principal towns are San Sadurní d’Anoia, in and around which the principal Cava producers are located, and Vilafranca del Penedès, where the Consejo has its headquarters.
Tell us about the Lleida province?
Lleida is the Catalan name for this province, which is called Lérida in Spanish. The land in this province rises up into the mountains, including both slopes and a high plain (range is 100–700 metres). The climate is Mediterranean at lower levels with increasing continental influences at higher altitudes. An irrigation system with water from the Pyrenees has turned this former semi-desert into productive vineyard land. It also can be used to provide frost protection in spring. In general, wines have riper fruit flavours from grapes grown lower down and have fresher flavours and higher acidity from grapes grown at higher altitude.
The province is important for the pioneering 2,200–hectare Raimat estate, producing mainly still wines. This is the largest single- vineyard estate owned by one family in Spain, the Raventós, who also own Codorníu. It pioneered growing Chardonnay that goes into Raimat and Codorníu wines.
Tell us about the Tarragona province?
The grape-growing areas are mainly low lying or undulating hills with a Mediterranean climate. The wines here are quite simple in the main, Macabeo-dominated and for early drinking. Within the province, the Conca de Barberà area is the home of Trepat, the black variety that is increasingly valued for Cava Rosado.
What other areas of Northern Spain are there for Cava?
The most important other area is in Rioja, where the Cantabrian Mountains protect the region from excessive rainfall coming from the Atlantic. Grapes grown at higher altitudes (e.g. in Rioja Alta at 425 m above sea level) can have higher acidity than fruit grown at lower altitude, which makes them particularly well suited to quality sparkling wines. The only varieties used here for Cava are Macabeo (locally known as Viura) and Chardonnay. Macabeo ripens much later here than in Penedès where it typically grows as lower altitude.
What grape varities are there for Cava?
Local white grape varieties, Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada, make up the vast majority of plantings for Cava, with smaller, but still significant, plantings of international variety, Chardonnay. The varieties are picked at different times and each grape variety may be picked over a one- to two-week period to gain different characteristics, and to provide different base wines for blending.
Macabeo – This grape variety makes up 36 per cent of vineyards registered for Cava. It is typically planted at 100–300 metres above sea level in Penedès but with some planted higher in Rioja and Lleida. It is late budding (and thus less at risk from spring frosts), is picked first of the local varieties and is high yielding. Macabeo is susceptible to botrytis bunch rot and bacterial blight (a serious disease associated with warm, moist conditions which reduces yields and for which there is no cure). Wines made from Macabeo have light intensity apple and lemon aromas and flavours. In areas other than Cataluña, Macabeo (Viura in Rioja) is the only Spanish indigenous white grape planted, and on occasion in those areas produces a single varietal Cava. However, increasingly, and more normally, it is blended with Chardonnay.
Xarel-lo – This grape variety accounts for 25 per cent of vineyards registered for Cava and is typically planted at sea level and up to as high as 400 metres in Penedès. It is indigenous to Cataluña. Mid-budding (and therefore prone to spring frosts in some years) and ripening, it is susceptible to powdery and downy mildew, but otherwise has good disease resistance. It gives greengage and gooseberry notes, has herbal (fennel) notes that set it apart from the other varieties and can become earthy when fruit is over-ripe. It has a reasonable affinity with oak.
Parellada – This grape variety makes up 20 per cent of vineyards registered for Cava and is typically planted on higher sites (e.g. 500 m) in Penedès. It is indigenous to Cataluña and is the lowest yielding but latest ripening of the three main indigenous Spanish white grapes. The best vineyards are planted at highest altitudes. It needs to be planted at altitude to give it a long-ripening season to reach flavour maturity without excessive potential alcohol. It adds finesse and floral notes. It is early budding (and is therefore prone to spring frosts) and susceptible to powdery mildew.
Chardonnay – This grape variety makes up 9 per cent of vineyards registered for Cava. It adds body, richness and finesse. The choice of clone and rootstock are vital for balanced ripeness because otherwise it would ripen too quickly and accumulate too much potential alcohol.
What black grape varieties are there?
Small volumes of rosé Cava (Rosado) are also made using the following varieties.
Garnacha Tinta – This grape variety is used less and less because of its tendency to oxidise but contributes ripe red fruit and some spicy notes.
Trepat – Trepat is a variety local to Conca del Barberà with strawberry flavours and high acidity. It can legally only be used in Rosado production, but is increasingly used in that style.
Pinot Noir – Pinot Noir is used for Rosado blends and as a single variety; it is often made into Blanc de Noirs wines.
Monastrell is allowed in the production of Cava but is little used. Tempranillo is not permitted in Cava production.
Explain the vineyard management for Cava?
The maximum yield for Cava is set at 12,000 kg per hectare. Vines are typically planted at low to moderate densities (1,500–3,500 vines/hectare) with either traditional bush vines or single or double cordon. Low-density vineyards with moderately high yields are suitable because producers are not looking for intense primary flavours in base wines. Irrigation is permitted, though strictly controlled, to relieve hydric stress and protect the future viability of vineyards. Yields may not be increased by irrigation.
Rootstocks are chosen for tolerance to lime, where needed, and to control vigour. Macabeo in particular tends to grow excessive shoots and leaves and produces little fruit if planted on the wrong rootstock.
Misty, humid mornings mean that botrytis and downy mildew can be a threat. Powdery mildew can also be an issue during periods of dry weather. Vines are treated with copper and sulfur to counteract them. Canopy management measures, such as removing leaves from the north side of the row, are used to aid air circulation and reduce shade within the canopy. Grapevine moth is an issue, with some producers treating this using sexual confusion techniques.
Grapes are typically tested for sugar levels, acidity and pH in order to make a decision on picking dates. Full phenolic ripeness is not needed for most Cava, as the juice will be extracted quickly to avoid excessive phenolic pick up. Low potential alcohol and appropriate acidity are important criteria in setting a picking date, which is typically earlier than for still wines.
A recent development has been testing for gluconic acid values (indicator of botrytis infection) in grapes. Too high a level can have a negative effect on yeast in the secondary fermentation process and will result in a subsequent drop in wine stability. If grapes have values that are too high, they will be rejected, maintaining the quality of the final wine.
Producers can choose whether to pick mechanically or by hand. The vast majority of grapes are harvested by hand (90 per cent) as vineyards are very widely scattered in ownership, fragmented and on very uneven terrain, though gradually more grapes are being machine-harvested. Grapes for high-quality wines are all picked by hand. Most of Freixenet production is from small contracted growers and is picked by hand, while Codorníu have their own vineyards in Penedès and at Raimat, which are mostly picked mechanically. Recent improvements in mechanical harvesting have meant that this method can deliver 80 per cent whole berries. In addition, grapes can be picked at night, raising quality at lower price points.
Basic fruit, if handpicked, can be selected in the vineyard and transported in 25 kg crates. Handpicked premium fruit is transported in smaller crates (e.g. 10 kg) to avoid grapes splitting, which could lead to microbial spoilage. Quality focused producers often press whole bunches for base wines with low phenolic content. The big companies press grapes in the region where they are grown to avoid oxidation and to maintain quality. The juice is refrigerated and transported to the main wineries in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia.
Explain the winemaking for Cava?
Pneumatic presses are used for a soft press. This is to maintain wine quality by avoiding the extraction of phenolics. Rosado must be made from a minimum of 25 per cent black grapes and by contact with the skins, rather than by blending red and white base wines. Yield is restricted to 80 hL/ha with a limit of one hectolitre of must being pressed from 150 kg of grapes.
Grapes are typically picked early enough to have sufficient natural acidity without adjustment. Large producers use cultured yeasts, either from strains that they propagate themselves (Freixenet; Cevipe co-operative) or that they buy in (Codorníu, choosing the appropriate strain for the conditions in each vintage). The first fermentation takes place in large-format stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, 14–16°C (57–61°F), to preserve fruity aromas. Malolactic conversion is typically prevented to preserve acidity. Thereafter the wines are made by the traditional method.
The wines are typically from the fruit of one season, whether they are marketed as vintage or non-vintage. The use of reserve wines is not common because vintage variation is limited and storing reserve wines would add cost.
Historically, wines were disgorged by hand, but Cava producers, in line with the large volumes produced, were the early adopters of the gyropalette on an industrial scale. More recently, the process of disgorgement has been made even faster. This has been achieved by a combination of yeast strain selection and the use of bottles with smooth glass on the inside surface to speed up flocculation. In addition, an automated rotating drum has been developed to replace the gyropalette. The entire disgorgement process can now take as little 80 minutes. The large companies plan to match disgorgement and finishing dates to reflect peaks in demand.
Most Cava is Brut with 8–9 g/L as a typical dosage level. Medium-Dry (Semi-Seco) is popular in certain markets (Spain, Germany). Quality producers have a new focus on the Brut Nature style.
Explain the styles of Cava?
There are three main categories of Cava with different styles (on Cava de Paraje, see next section):
Cava – Cava must undergo a minimum nine months of lees ageing (tirage to disgorgement). When made as a white, it has light to medium intensity lemon, apple and herbal notes, light biscuit autolytic notes and medium to medium (+) acidity. The wines are typically acceptable to good in quality and inexpensive to mid-priced.
Cava Reserva – To qualify for Reserva, the wines must spend a minimum of 15 months ageing on lees, meaning that the autolytic notes are more evident. The wines are typically good to very good in quality and mid-priced.
Cava Gran Reserva – These wines must undergo a minimum 30 months of lees aging, and so can show pronounced toasty, smoky autolytic notes. The wines are very good to outstanding in quality and premium in price.
Explain the wine law and wine business for Cava?
Grape varieties, yields and minimum time for ageing have been dealt with above. While most Cava is Brut in style, basic Cava and Cava Reserva may be produced in a range of styles of sweetness. However, Cava Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado (see below) may only be Brut, Extra Brut or Brut Nature.
The Consejo Regulador del Cava administers four separate registers regarding the whole production process of Cava. These are:
- growers
- producers of base wines
- storekeepers of base wines
- Cava producers
Although these are separate registers, it is feasible, and quite common, for a Cava producer to figure on all four registers.
There is a good deal of cross flow between all four entities and across all geographical regions. For example, it is legal, indeed common, for grapes grown in Tarragona to be turned into base wines there, but to be transported up to the Barcelona region to be turned into finished Cava, so long as all movements are appropriately logged and all other legal parameters are met with.
As previously mentioned, Cava production is notable for the huge scale of the biggest companies. Freixenet and Codorníu produce around 75 per cent of all finished Cava. The Cevipe co-operative processes 55 million kilos of grapes a year but produces no finished Cava. It sells base wines to other companies (e.g. Freixenet).
Total shipments of Cava were just under 250 million bottles in 2018, just under one-third of which went to Spain and the rest was exported. The shipments grew rapidly from 1980 to 2010 and has plateaued since then. The high-volume export markets are Germany, Belgium, UK and USA. The basic Cava category makes up 87 per cent of the wine sold with Reserva accounting for 11 per cent and Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado 2 per cent together. Rosado makes up 8 per cent of sales.2
Cava sales have increased by just over 50 per cent since 2000, but by only small percentages since 2010. Recent initiatives are intended to raise standards and to increase sales in the context of increased demand for sparkling wine around the world.
Some producers of high-quality Cava have become disenchanted with the perceived image of Cava as an inexpensive wine of only good quality. A number of initiatives has been taken to address this issue.
The new category, Cava de Paraje Calificado, single estate or vineyard Cava, was introduced in 2017 for estate-produced and ‐bottled Cava. To qualify, the Cava must be made from the grapes of one single estate, owned by the producer of the wine. The vines must be at least ten years old, with a maximum production yield of 8,000 kg per hectare, 48 hL/ha after pressing. The wine cannot be acidified (as other Cava can). The finished wine must be aged at the estate for a minimum of 36 months and, as noted, must be Brut sweetness level or lower.
A number of high quality producers (examples include Gramona and Recaredo) left the Cava DO in 2019 and founded the legally recognised producer group Corpinnat. This commits members to making sparkling wines by the traditional method with 100 per cent organic grapes, grown in Penedès, harvested by hand and vinified entirely on the premises of the winery. 90 per cent of the grapes used must be approved local varieties. There are three categories with minimum ageing on the lees of 18, 30 and 60 months.
In other developments, two Spanish regions have created categories for traditional method sparkling wines. In 2014, the Penedès DO introduced a category called Clàssic Penedès for sparkling wines made from certified organic grapes grown in the DO. The wine must be made by the traditional method with a minimum of 15 months on the lees. The strapline is ‘making DO Penedès the first appellation in the world to offer a category of premium sparkling wines that are 100% organic’. Producers using this category include Albet I Noya and Loxarel.
In 2017, the Rioja DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) approved the use of the name Rioja for sparkling wines with the new category, Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja (Quality sparkling wine of Rioja) and implemented in 2019. The grapes must be hand harvested and the wine made by the traditional method. There are three tiers: Crianza, aged on the lees for a minimum of 15 months; Reserva, minimum 24 months; Gran Añada, minimum of 36 months.
