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Cosmetics Lec - J > Skin Moisturizers > Flashcards

Skin Moisturizers Flashcards

1
Q

main purposes of skin moisturizers

A
  1. improve skin quality, maintain and/or restore moisture content of the SC, keep skin smooth, and pliable, and help alleviate symptoms of dry skin
  2. keep skin hydrated
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2
Q

enumerate the different moisturizing agents

A
  1. humectant
  2. emollient
  3. occlusive
  4. skin rejuvenators
  5. ceramides
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3
Q

properties of skin moisturizers (simplified)

A
  1. neutral/pleasant odor and color
  2. easy to spread and pleasant during application
  3. non-oily/non-greasy
  4. non-comodogenic
  5. effective hydration and prevent trans-epidermal water loss
  6. protect from environmental factors
  7. reduces dryness, improve dull appearance
  8. smoothens and softens skin
  9. well-tolerated/non-allergenic
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4
Q

enumerate the formulation of skin moisturizers

A
  1. emulsifiers
  2. thickeners
  3. water
  4. preservatives
  5. antioxidants
  6. fragrances
  7. sunscreens
  8. colorants
  9. aesthetic agent
  10. electrolytes
  11. functional ingredients
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5
Q

determination of emulsion type

A
  1. conductivity measurement
  2. solubility
  3. dispersion by dilution
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6
Q

devices used to determine moisturizing effect

A
  1. corneometer
  2. tewameter
  3. d-squame
  4. sebumeter
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7
Q

aesthetic properties of moisturizers

A
  1. rub out
  2. appearance
  3. pick-up
  4. greasiness
  5. tackiness
  6. break
  7. slip
  8. after-feel
  9. delayed after-feel
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8
Q

hygroscopic; increase water content of epidermis; enhance water absorption form dermis to epidermis

A

humectants

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9
Q

replace lost nmf

A

humectant

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10
Q

glycerin

A

humectant

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11
Q

plasticize, soften and smoothen skin, fill void spaces between corneocytes and replace lost lipids in the SC

A

emollients

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12
Q

provide protection and lubrication on skin surface to minimize chafing

A

emollient

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13
Q

enhance skin’s aesthetic smoothness and softness

A

emollient

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14
Q

fatty acid

A

emollient

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15
Q

hydrocarbon

A

emollient

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16
Q

silicon

A

emollient

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17
Q

waxes and oils (e.g., vegetable oil)

A

emollient

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18
Q

gold standard occlusive

A

petrolatum

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19
Q

create hydrophobic barrier to block TEWL form SC

A

occlusive

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20
Q

occlusives are best used in combi with

A

humectants

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21
Q

characteristics of occlusives

A
  1. may be sticky
  2. not easy to remove
  3. leave greasy feeling
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22
Q

restore, protect, and enhance skin’s barrier function

A

skin rejuvenators

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23
Q

proteins like keratin, elastin, and collagen

A

skin rejuvenators

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24
Q

leave protein film that appears to smoothen skin and stretch fine wrinkles

A

skin rejuvenators

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25
Q

most important structural element of intracellular lipids in the SC

A

ceramides

26
Q

link protein-rich corneocytes into a waterproof barrier to protect underlying skin tissues and regulate body homoestasis

A

ceramides

27
Q

reduce dry skin symptoms

A

ceramides

28
Q

for emulsion stability and affects consistency, viscosity, skin feel, color, odor, and care properties

A

emulsifiers

29
Q

contribute to stability, rheological property, and skin feel of emulsions

A

thickeners

30
Q

basic component of emulsions

A

water

31
Q

inhibit bacterial growth & prevent microbial deterioration

A

preservatives

32
Q

prevent oxidation and rancidity

A

antioxidants

33
Q

improve overall aesthetic qualities

A

fragrance

34
Q

protect skin from harmful radiation of sunlight

A

sunscreen

35
Q

used to enhance aesthetic quality

A

colorants (soft colors)

36
Q

pearlescent pigment, soft-feeling agents, and opacifiers that provide uniform appearance

A

aesthetic agent

37
Q

included in water in silicon emulsions at 1-2% to improve formulation’s stability

A

electrolytes

38
Q

natural additives, vitamins, peptides, and proteins, essential fatty acids, hydroxy acids, and beta glucans

A

functional ingredients

39
Q

facial moisturizers are what type of emulsions

A

O/W or W/Si

40
Q

hand and body moisturizers are what type of emulsions

A

W/O

41
Q

hydrophobic but not oily

A

silicon

42
Q

emulsions that allow sustained release of entrapped materials and possible use of incompatible ingredients in the same formulatin

A

multiple emulsions (W/O/W)

43
Q

advantage of multiple emulsions

A

controlled or sustained release of materials

44
Q

used to avoid unpleasant reactions and prevent irritant dermatitis

A

barrier creams or skin protective creams

45
Q

based in changes in electrical properties of the SC

A

conductance method

46
Q

determined based on behavior as dielectric medium

A

capacitance method

47
Q

what is the principle of corneometer

A

capacitance method

48
Q

used as indicator of skin’s barrier function

A

TEWL

49
Q

open chamber TEWL devices determines what using two water sensors

A

vapor pressure gradient above skin surface

50
Q

closed chamber TEWL devices measure what

A

humidity in chamber of diffusion gradient

51
Q

measured using instruments that translate surface unevenness to electrical signal, casting a replica of the skin surface using a silicone rubber impression material, and tactile acuity

A

roughness

52
Q

relationship of friction and dryness

A

linear

53
Q

consists of fixed disc attached to skin and a central rotating disc employed for measurement of the angle of rotation

A

derma, torque meter

54
Q

dermal torque meter measures what

A

elasticity

55
Q

sloughing off of dead skin cells

A

desquamination

56
Q

measure transparency based on the oil present

A

sebumeter

57
Q

ease with which the product is absorbed after application

A

rub out

58
Q

texture of the product

A

pick up

59
Q

ease by which product can spread on or glide over the skin

A

slip

60
Q

sensation

A

after-feel

61
Q

sensation felt after 10 to 15 minutes

A

delayed after-feel

Cosmetics Lec - J (2 decks)

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