Skin Moisturizers Flashcards
main purposes of skin moisturizers
- improve skin quality, maintain and/or restore moisture content of the SC, keep skin smooth, and pliable, and help alleviate symptoms of dry skin
- keep skin hydrated
enumerate the different moisturizing agents
- humectant
- emollient
- occlusive
- skin rejuvenators
- ceramides
properties of skin moisturizers (simplified)
- neutral/pleasant odor and color
- easy to spread and pleasant during application
- non-oily/non-greasy
- non-comodogenic
- effective hydration and prevent trans-epidermal water loss
- protect from environmental factors
- reduces dryness, improve dull appearance
- smoothens and softens skin
- well-tolerated/non-allergenic
enumerate the formulation of skin moisturizers
- emulsifiers
- thickeners
- water
- preservatives
- antioxidants
- fragrances
- sunscreens
- colorants
- aesthetic agent
- electrolytes
- functional ingredients
determination of emulsion type
- conductivity measurement
- solubility
- dispersion by dilution
devices used to determine moisturizing effect
- corneometer
- tewameter
- d-squame
- sebumeter
aesthetic properties of moisturizers
- rub out
- appearance
- pick-up
- greasiness
- tackiness
- break
- slip
- after-feel
- delayed after-feel
hygroscopic; increase water content of epidermis; enhance water absorption form dermis to epidermis
humectants
replace lost nmf
humectant
glycerin
humectant
plasticize, soften and smoothen skin, fill void spaces between corneocytes and replace lost lipids in the SC
emollients
provide protection and lubrication on skin surface to minimize chafing
emollient
enhance skin’s aesthetic smoothness and softness
emollient
fatty acid
emollient
hydrocarbon
emollient
silicon
emollient
waxes and oils (e.g., vegetable oil)
emollient
gold standard occlusive
petrolatum
create hydrophobic barrier to block TEWL form SC
occlusive
occlusives are best used in combi with
humectants
characteristics of occlusives
- may be sticky
- not easy to remove
- leave greasy feeling
restore, protect, and enhance skin’s barrier function
skin rejuvenators
proteins like keratin, elastin, and collagen
skin rejuvenators
leave protein film that appears to smoothen skin and stretch fine wrinkles
skin rejuvenators
most important structural element of intracellular lipids in the SC
ceramides
link protein-rich corneocytes into a waterproof barrier to protect underlying skin tissues and regulate body homoestasis
ceramides
reduce dry skin symptoms
ceramides
for emulsion stability and affects consistency, viscosity, skin feel, color, odor, and care properties
emulsifiers
contribute to stability, rheological property, and skin feel of emulsions
thickeners
basic component of emulsions
water
inhibit bacterial growth & prevent microbial deterioration
preservatives
prevent oxidation and rancidity
antioxidants
improve overall aesthetic qualities
fragrance
protect skin from harmful radiation of sunlight
sunscreen
used to enhance aesthetic quality
colorants (soft colors)
pearlescent pigment, soft-feeling agents, and opacifiers that provide uniform appearance
aesthetic agent
included in water in silicon emulsions at 1-2% to improve formulation’s stability
electrolytes
natural additives, vitamins, peptides, and proteins, essential fatty acids, hydroxy acids, and beta glucans
functional ingredients
facial moisturizers are what type of emulsions
O/W or W/Si
hand and body moisturizers are what type of emulsions
W/O
hydrophobic but not oily
silicon
emulsions that allow sustained release of entrapped materials and possible use of incompatible ingredients in the same formulatin
multiple emulsions (W/O/W)
advantage of multiple emulsions
controlled or sustained release of materials
used to avoid unpleasant reactions and prevent irritant dermatitis
barrier creams or skin protective creams
based in changes in electrical properties of the SC
conductance method
determined based on behavior as dielectric medium
capacitance method
what is the principle of corneometer
capacitance method
used as indicator of skin’s barrier function
TEWL
open chamber TEWL devices determines what using two water sensors
vapor pressure gradient above skin surface
closed chamber TEWL devices measure what
humidity in chamber of diffusion gradient
measured using instruments that translate surface unevenness to electrical signal, casting a replica of the skin surface using a silicone rubber impression material, and tactile acuity
roughness
relationship of friction and dryness
linear
consists of fixed disc attached to skin and a central rotating disc employed for measurement of the angle of rotation
derma, torque meter
dermal torque meter measures what
elasticity
sloughing off of dead skin cells
desquamination
measure transparency based on the oil present
sebumeter
ease with which the product is absorbed after application
rub out
texture of the product
pick up
ease by which product can spread on or glide over the skin
slip
sensation
after-feel
sensation felt after 10 to 15 minutes
delayed after-feel
