skin care & ingredients Flashcards
Lakes are botanical emulsifiers
false
Vitamin K is helpful for clients with telangiectasia and spider veins
true
Carbomers are used to add fragrance
false
Papaya is used for exfoliation
true
Magnesium crystals and jojoba beads are examples of chemical exfoliants
false
Anhydrous products are designed for oily skin.
false
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are commonly used as exfoliants
true
Fragrances give products their scent
true
Preservatives are used to keep bacteria from living in a product.
true
Enzyme peels dissolve dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix.
false
Functional ingredients allow products to spread, and give them body and texture
true
An exfoliating cream that is rubbed off the skin is a humectant.
false
What do silicones do
Silicones act as vehicles (for spreading) in some products, including makeup foundation
What do emollients do?
Emollients are fatty materials used to lubricate and moisturize the skin.
Emollients _____ the skin’s surface
lubricate
What is the source of mineral oil?
Mineral oil and petrolatum come from the earth, specifically from petroleum sources.
What term refers to ingredients designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin?
Enzymes.
enzymes provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface to make skin softer and smoother, and to help maintain the hydration level of the epidermis.
What do glycoproteins do?
enhance immune response
What is a possible advantage of synthetic ingredients over natural ingredients?
lesser ecological footprint
What is an example of a sunscreen that protects the skin from UVA radiation
zinc oxide
What are the main types of surfactants used in skin-cleansing products?
detergents
What gives products their scent?
fragrances
The main types of surfactants used in skin-cleansing products are _____.
detergents
What is mineral oil?
lubricant derived from petroleum
What are glycoproteins derived from?
yeast
What do emulsifiers cause to mix, in order to form an emulsion?
oil and water
What are lakes
insoluble pigments
What products coat the skin and reduce friction?
lubricants
What is coenzyme Q10
antioxidant
What is an example of an inorganic physical substance
titanium dioxide
What type of ingredient is used to improve the hydration, plumpness, and smoothness of the skin?
lipids
What are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) commonly used as?
exfoliants
What are examples of ingredients that are used to adjust the pH of products?
sodium hydroxide and citric acid
What element turns a fatty acid into a fatty alcohol?
hydrogen
What are carbomers used for?
thickening creams
What type of color agent is not subject to FDA batch certification requirements?
noncertified colors
What is one of the fattiest and heaviest plant oils?
coconut oil
Where in the body are alpha lipoic acids found?
every cell
chemical systems that deliver ingredients to specific areas of the epidermis
delivery system
chemical compounds formed by a number of small molecules
polymers
derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells
plant stem cells
used to enhance the skin’s defense mechanism and stimulate cell metabolism
polyglucons
closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific areas of the skin and control their release
liposomes
spreading agents and carrying bases that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
vehicles
Benzoyl peroxide is an ingredient specifically recommended for mature skin.
false
Green tea is proven to have a positive effect on mature skin.
true
Green tea is an antibacterial and an anti-irritant, and it provides UV protection.
true
Licorice is used for boosting the efficacy of enzyme peels
false
Masks that are designed to stay moist and more hydrating, setting
nonsetting mask
Masks that harden and contain ingredients, which dry and provide a complete barrier on top of the skin, alginate
setting mask
Masks that form a seal that encourages the skin’s absorption of the serum or cream underneath,
alginate
Thermal masks that contains crystals of gypsum, and reach approximately 105 degrees Fahrenheit,
modelage
Wax masks that are used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through the heat trapped
parrafin
Masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as the masks fries and tightens
clay
Masks allow an esthetician to treat several skin conditions at the same time, and are also beneficial for weekly home care use.
mask
What term refers to a detergent-type “foaming” cleanser?
cleansing gel
A valuable ingredient included in some day creams is _____.
sunscreen
Treatment creams are also known as _____.
nourishing creams
What is an ampoule
small sealed vials
How often should moisturizers be used at home?
twice a day
Some lip treatments include this derivative to plump up the lips.
collagen
What type of toner has a higher alcohol content?
astringent
Eye creams are usually lighter and similar to concentrated specialty creams and gels to ____.
protect thin, delicate tissue
What term refers to skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content
fresheners
All of the following are benefits of using moisturizers and hydrators except _____.
stimulating the body’s histamine activity
Sun protection factor (SPF) is based on UVA protection
false
Clients should exfoliate at home once a day.
false
An SPF 15 sunscreen blocks 98 percent of UVB rays.
false
Self-tanners protect from UVA and UVB exposure.
false
Looking tan does not mean the skin has protection from sunburns or photoaging.
true
SPF refers to the sun protection factor in sunscreens that delays sun-induced erythema.
true
Self-tanning lotions are formulated with an ingredient that reacts with melanin and turns the melanocytes darker
false
SPF is based on exposure time alone.
false
as defined by the U.S. Food And Drug Administration (FDA): articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
cosmetics
soap or detergent that cleans the skin
cleansers
products formulated to add moisture to the skin
moisturizers
term used to describe high-quality products or ingredients intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance
cosmeceutical
all natural, terms often used in marketing for skin care products and ingredients derived from natural sources
natural
term often used in marketing for skin care products and ingredients derived from natural sources
all natural
term used to describe natural-sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals
organic
term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process; nor are any of its ingredients tested on animals
cruelty-free
a product that is labeled vegan should not contain any animal ingredients or animal by-products
vegan
emollient with moisturizing properties; also, an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities
lanolin
refers to ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions
hyoallergenic
this term indicates that no additional ingredients have been added to a product to specifically provide a fragrance; however, it may already contain ingredients that have a scent
fragrance - free
antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing
lavendar
products formulated to have no smell; because most ingredients in a formulation do have an odor, more ingredients have to be added to neutralize the smell
unscented
ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients
functional ingredients
properties include enhancing the penetrative abilities of other substances; antiinflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin
urea
give products their scent
fragrances
mineral physical sunscreen ingredient that reflects UVA and UVB rays; also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antimicrobial
zinc oxide
ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin
performance ingredients
describes products that do not contain any water
anhydrous
oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss
emollients
fats or fat-like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
lipids
emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources
liquid paraffin
derived from coconut, one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient
coconut oil
derived from the oil palm tree; one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient
palm oil
derived from hemp seeds, very light botanical oil used as an emollient
hemp seed oil
emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats
fatty acids
coats the skin and reduces friction; mineral oil is a lubricant
lubricant
emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
fatty alcohols
emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols
fatty esters
type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products
detergents
surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
emulsifiers
systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis
delivery systems
spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
vehicles
closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release
liposomes
chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate
polymers
chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations; they kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
preservatives
one of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against diverse organisms
parabens
one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic
methylparaben
all-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. Probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies
Quaternium-15
a chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative
chelating agents
oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche
essential oils
therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service
aromatherapy
hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize
herbs
“smell” receptors in the nose that communicate with parts of the brain that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories
olfactory nerves
substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color
color agents
inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)
certified colors
insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
lakes
colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments
noncertified colors
ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products
carbomers
acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products
pH adjusters
baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and pH adjuster
sodium bicarbonate
antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents; specially denatured (SD) alcohol is a mixture of ethanol with a denaturing agent
alcohol
ingredients derived from plants
botanicals
peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin
exfoliation
provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface
enzymes
abbreviated AHAs; acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Alpha hydroxy acids also stimulate cell renewal
alpha hydroxy acids
mixable with water
water soluble
exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs). BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin
beta hydroxy acids
beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
salicylic acid
compatible with oil
oil soluale
natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
retinol
plasticizers used in skin care formulas to moisturize and soften skin, and to dissolve or blend ingredients
phthalates
ingredients that attract water; humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dehydration
humectants
ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface
hydrators
ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface
hydrophilic agents
vitamin A derivative that has demonstrated an ability to alter collagen synthesis and is used to treat acne and visible signs of aging; side effects are irritation, photosensitivity, skin dryness, redness, and peeling
retinoic
agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells
keratolytic
chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skin’s firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides
peptides
substances from plants such as chamomile, aloe, plant stem cells, and botanical oils that help to heal the skin
healing botanicals
derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; health and anti-aging benefits
plant stem cells
ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate metabolism; hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin
polyglucans
ingredients used in anti-aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen
beta-glucans
skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing
glycoproteins
inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
titanium dioxide
berry rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, and E; protects, replenishes; helps heal damaged skin
acai berry
seaweed derivatives used as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants; also nourishes the skin with vitamins and minerals
algae
seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness
seaweed
derived from the root of the comfrey plant, helps to soften and protect while actively soothing skin
allantoin
popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and humectant with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties
aloe vera
a natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil
alpha lipoic acid
derived from the kernels of the argan tree; very light botanical oil used as an emollient
argan oil
derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
azulene
drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne
benzoyl peroxide
anti-inflammatory plant extract
calendula
plant extract with calming and soothing properties
chamomile
powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells
Coenzyme Q10
derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system
echinacea
formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams
glycerin
powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant
green tea
skin-brightening agent
kojic acid
anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation
licorice
lubricant derived from petroleum
mineral oil
emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources
petrolatum
derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes; an emollient
sqalene
reduces the activity of oil glands and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry, dead cells; commonly used in acne products
sulfur
soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties
tea tree oil
extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent
witch hazel
also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin’s surface
toners
toners, skin-freshening lotions, and liquids applied after cleansing to soothe and hydrate
fresheners
also called toners, these liquids help remove excess oil on the skin
astringents
mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin
exfoliants
products used as a physical method of polishing dead cells off the skin
mechanical exfoliants
chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue,” that holds them together (desmosomes)
chemical exfoliants
natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
papaya
exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin
gommage
concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
mask
oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten
clay mask
often seaweed based mask applied after a serum or treatment cream. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or serums, and dry to form a rubberized texture
alginate
thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient
modelage masks
mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin
paraffin wax masks
oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of a desert shrub; used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
jojoba
concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
serums
small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base
ampoules
abbreviated SPF; indicates the ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage; the SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure
sun protection factor
