Skin analysis Flashcards
Why do we analyse the skin
- to recognise skin types and conditions
- recognise any contra-indications
- recognise any disorder which we cannot treat (hypopigmentation, broken capillaries, vitiligo)
- choose the correct products for the treatment + client + skin type or conditions
- choose the correct electrical machines to use during the facial treatment
- advise the client on the correct homecare products = retail= results
How do we analyse the skin?
1) Visually- looking through the magnifying lamp
2) Verbally- asking the client questions
3) Touching- the skin to determine texture and temp
Asking questions (while looking through the magnifying lamp)
1) Occupation
2) Lifestyle
3) Health
4) Skincare
5) Exceptations
Occupation
1) Environment with central heating/air conditioning- dehydration (trans epidermal water loss)
2) Temp extremes- broken capillaries
3) Outdoor work- dehydration, premature ageing, sun damage and pigmentation
4) Factory work- blockages, which lead to pustules and comedones
5) Hot, humid, dry environment- leads to perspiration, leading to moisture loss
6) Cold environment- less sebum production therefore skin feels dry with less protection
*stress can also be a factor
Lifestyle
- client may be too busy to spend time looking after their skin
- social life may be hectic (lack of sleep will lead to dark circles and puffiness)
- active or sedentary (daily exercise and fresh air will have a positive effect on skin)
- stress levels (tension lines, blood and lymph cannot circulate properly which leads to sluggish skin circulation)
Health
- unhealthy eating habits and a diet that lacks water, vitamins, minerals will cause the skin to be dull, rough and dry
- minerals such as iron, calcium, potassium, magnesium are required for growth and repair of tissues
- iron is the most important mineral
- a pale skin may indicate anemia caused by a shortage of iron
- the most important vitamins for the skin are A, C, E, which are antioxidants and fight free-radicals
- a lack of vitamin A will lead to hyperkeratinization and therefore cause blockages in the skin and a rough texture
- lack of vitamin C will lead to fragile capillaries causing defused redness (needed for collagen production)
- smoking and caffeine consumption causes dehydration and pre-mature ageing
- strong medications cause dehydration or odema
- prolonged cortisone (or accutane/retin a) use can thin skin as well as cause swelling of the tissues
Fibroblast
collagen producing cell found in dermis
Skincare
- how do you take care of your skin
- what do you think your skin type is
- how does your skin feel around midday/lunch break
- do you suffer from any allergies (look at eyes for puffiness)
- do you use a moisturizer
- do you use SPF
- how do you wash your face + remove makeup
- do you wear make-up daily
- if i had a mirror and a magic wand, point out to me what i can help with
Expectations
- find out what she is expecting from this treatment
- some things require a course and wont be fixed after one treatment
To determine skin types the following should be noted
1) Skin colour
2) Skin texture
3) Pore size
4) Signs of sebaceous gland activity
5) Evidence of any previous skin conditions
6) Elasticity
7) Muscle tone
8) Any blemishes
9) Temperature (feel)
Skin colour
- a paler skin is usually more sensitive
- an oily skin is usually dull and yellowish due to a build up of dead cells
Skin texture
- a very dry skin is usually rough and tight due to flakes on the skin surface + lack of oil
- an oily skin is smooth unless there are pustules, papules and comedones (congestion)
Cause of dehydration
TEWL
- trans
- epidermal
- water
- loss
Pore size
- an oily skin has large pores due to sebum being secreted through the pores
- a normal and dry skin has small pores
- normal pore size is not larger than the size of a pinhead
Signs of sebaceous gland activity
- sebum present on the skin will be indicated by greasy and shiny areas
Exfoliation vs desquamation
- manual process of removing dead skin cells with an exfoliating agent (granules, enzyme, AHA)
- natural process of shedding skin cells (every 28-30 days)
Evidence of any previous skin conditions
- large pores on a mature skin may indicate a previously oily skin
- scarring shows previous acne
Elasticity
- evidence of lines and wrinkles on the face together with the age of the client indicates whether the skin is ageing naturally or pre-maturely
- sagging skin is a sign of loss of elasticity
- as we age muscles are no longer able to keep skin in place
Difference between expression lines and wrinkles
- wrinkles are permanent on the face and present during facial expressions as well as when the face is in a natural position
- expression lines are only seen during expressions such as laughing, smiling, grinning and frowning
Muscle tone
- dropped facial contours indicate maturity and a loss of muscle tone
- slack muscles will not be able to support the skin and can therefore lead to lines and wrinkles
Any blemishes
- dilated capillaries, pustules, pigmentation, scarring, moles and freckles
Temperature (feel)
- a pale sensitive skin will feel warmer than an oily skin
- we need to check for this by feeling the skin so that we do not over stimulate the skin if it is already warm or hot
2 different types of wrinkles
- dynamic (thru expression)
- static (permanent wrinkles)
How many skin types do you get ?
4
- normal/balanced/young
- dry/alipidic skin
- oily skin
- combination skin
Skin types are determined by the amount of ?
- oil (sebum content) in the skin as well as other conditions present
Normal/balanced/young
Characteristics
- healthy glow, neither shiny nor dull, firm, even texture and rarely develops blemishes or blockages, balanced sebum and moisture content, pores are small
Cause
- extremely rare after reaching puberty
- there is a healthy acid mantle maintaining moisture and sebum levels within the skin
Dry/alipidic skin
Characteristics
- rough and thin texture with evident flaking, dull appearance, dilated capillaries and sensitivity is common, pores are small, premature ageing, resulting in wrinkles, hydration is usually low as there is insufficient sebum to lubricate the surface and prevent evaporation
Causes
- a lack of natural sebum secretion, often in menopausal years due to a drop in estrogen levels
- a disruption to the acid mantle due to prolonged use of harsh drying products
Aggravating factors
- environment, over exposure to UV and incorrect skincare
Oily skin
Characteristics
- shine, large blocked pores, pustules, papules, sallow appearance (dead skin cells adhere to the skin), comedones, uneven coarse texture
Causes
- excess sebum production (hereditary)
- hormonal fluctuations/imbalance (overproduction of testosterone in men, puberty in males and in some cases menopause in females, pregnancy)
Aggravating factors
- harsh products, poor diet rich in fats, oils and sugars, inadequate cleansing and inappropriate skin care, hot humid climates
Combination skin
Characteristics
- recognisable by the presence of more than 1 skin type, the most common combo is the T zone with the characteristics of an oily skin which is accompanied by a balanced cheek area
- most common skin type
- sebaceous glands occur more abundantly on the chin, forehead and nose
Causes
- as with each skin type
Aggravating factors
- care must be taken to treat the skin accordingly and not to over stimulate the more sensitive areas of the face
