CTM S Flashcards
1
Q
Cleansing
A
- a method performed to loosen and solutise dirt, waste products of the skin
- thereby allowing the skin to function normally
- regulating sebaceous glands and maintaining a healthy pH
2
Q
Cleansing is considered the basis of skin perfection as
A
- it is the first step
- enables the skin to function properly as it is free from debris, dirt and makeup
- helps to avoid skin congestion such as comedones and blocked pores
- prepares the skin for further treatment
3
Q
What is the basic component of most cosmetics
A
- an emulsion of oil and water to form either an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion
4
Q
Types of cleansing products (5)
A
- cleansing milks
- cream cleansers
- cleansing lotion
- cleansing foams (face wash)
- cleansing gels
5
Q
Cleansing milks
A
- usually oil-in-water emulsions with a high water content making them flow easily on the skin
- used on young, normal, dehydrated, sensitive skin and dry skin that is prone to sensitivity
6
Q
Cream cleansers
A
- water-in-oil emulsions with much smaller water content, making it much thicker and richer in consistency
- high oil content allows it to be massaged over the surface without dragging the tissues
- used on dry, mature, areas of dryness and clients with heavy oil based makeup
7
Q
Cleansing lotion (may contain medicated ingrediants)
A
- solutions of detergents in water which do not usually contain oil and medicated ingredients may be included for greasy, congested skin types (tea tree oil)
- used on normal to combo skin, oily/greasy and problematic skin types
8
Q
Cleansing foams/facial wash
A
- usually contain a mild detergent which foams when mixed with water and are light in texture and the foamy consistency avoids dragging on the skin
- used on most skin types, combo, except dry skin
9
Q
Cleansing gels
A
- lather well and have a strong degreasing action to remove excess oils
- used on oily and acne skin
10
Q
The requirements of a cleansing product:
A
- must be able to remove present makeup efficiently
- must be suitable for the clients skin type
- must not cause allergy or irritation
- must have a good texture for easy application
- must feel pleasant on skin
- must be economical
11
Q
Reasons for not using soap on the skin (NB)
A
- soap being alkali strips the skin of its natural acid mantle (4.5-5.6) which is there to protect against bacteria
- skin feels tight and stripped after
- soap only cleans superficially
- soap is unhygienic as it lies open on a dirty surface and may be used by anyone who enters the bathroom
12
Q
The removal of cleanser
A
- small facial sponges, which are damp have the ability to absorb and are excellent for removal
- the sponges aid in the removal of dead skin cells as they are slightly rough
- a warm compress can also be used
- dry cotton wool and tissues will not absorb the dirt/cleanser
13
Q
Why is it important to cleansing in the morning and evening
A
- the skin functions at night and produces sebum which needs to be removed in the morning before applying a moisturizer
- the skin must be cleansed at night to remove any dirt and sebum accumulated throughout the day as well as to remove any makeup
- one shouldn’t cleanse more than 2x a day as this will disrupt the acid mantle
14
Q
Mast cells
A
- a special cell in the skin which releases Histamine and shows up as an allergy or inflammation on the skin
15
Q
Eye makeup removal
A
- tissue and skin around the eyes is a lot thinner and delicate compared to the rest of the skin on the face
- need to use specific cleanser to remove eye makeup
- product cleanses the eye lid as well as the lashes by emulsifying the makeup
- should be designed to remove both water-based as well as oil-based makeup
16
Q
Oily eye makeup remover
A
- water-in-oil (80% oil and 20% water)
- removes water proof mascara
- removes wax or oil-based eyeshadow and eyeliner
17
Q
Non oily makeup remover
A
- oil-in-water (80% water and 20% oil)
- treating clients with sensitive skins around the eye
- contact lenses
- false lashes
18
Q
Sanitization of facial sponges
A
- wash with anti bacterial soap
- put into liquid sanitizer for 15 min
- place in UV cabinet for 30 min
19
Q
Toners (3) and differ due to the amount of alcohol they contain
A
- freshener/bracer (use with cleansing milk or cream)
- tonic (use with cleansing lotion or facial wash)
- astringent (drying) (use with cleansing lotion or cleansing gel)
20
Q
Functions of a toner
A
- removes all traces of excess cleanser
- produces a cooling effect on the skin when the water/alcohol evaporates from the skins surface)
- creates a tightening effect on the skin due to an astringent which causes the pores to constrict slightly (only temporary)
- restores the acid pH of the skin (4.5-5.6)
21
Q
Skin freshener/bracer
A
- mildest toning lotion and contains little to no alcohols
- mainly consists of purified water and floral extracts such as rose water and orange blossom
- recommended for: dry, delicate, sensitive, mature skin types
22
Q
Skin tonic
A
- slightly stronger toning lotions as they contain a small amount astringent such as Which hazel
- recommended for: normal, combo, oily skin types
23
Q
Astringents
A
- strongest toning lotions and contain a high volume of alcohol
- may contain antiseptic ingredients such as Hexachlorophene (Hibitane)
- recommended for: oily, with no sensitivity, acne skin types
24
Q
Appilication of a toner
A
- 2 pieces of damp cotton wool or spritzer
25
Q
Our skin and water
A
- skin depends on water to keep it soft, supple and resilient
- 70% of our body is composed of water
- skin is an important reservoir as it holds 20% of the body’s total water retention
- most water is held in the lower layers of the dermis but it circulates to the top layer of the epidermis where it evaporates, leaving the skin dehydrated
26
Q
The skin protects its water contents in 3 ways:
A
- a layer of sebum keeps the skin lubricated and therefore reduces water loss
- skin cells contain NMF (natural moisturizing factor) which fixes the moisture content in the skin
- the cells of the skin are held together by “cement” called lipids which form a water tight barrier
- the application of a moisturizer helps to maintain the natural oil and moisture balance in the skin
27
Q
Emulsion
A
- basic formulation of a moisturizer is oil and water to make an oil-in-water or a water-in-oil
- the water is needed to put the lost moisture back into the surface layers and the oil help to prevent further water loss
28
Q
Humectant (forms the water part of an emulsion)
A
- attracts water from the air to the skin (water based ingredient)
- prevents the cream itself from drying out in the tube or pot
- eg; glycerin
29
Q
Emollient (forms the oil part of an emulsion)
A
- oil based ingredient
- emollients soften and nourish the skin
- seals the skin and prevents water loss
- eg; almond oil, castor oil, olive oil
30
Q
Vegetable oil emollients
A
- almond oil, olive oil, avocado oil
- wildly used and preferable than animal based emollients (lanolin or mineral oil)
31
Q
Moisturizer has the following benefits:
A
- protects the skin against external damage such as wind, sun and pollution
- softens the skin
- plumps out our cells which minimise the appearance of fine lines
- provides a barrier between the skin and makeup and external elements
- may contain other specific ingredients such as vitamins and antioxidants which improve skin condition
- hyaluronic acid- water attracting
- contains UV filters to protect against sun
32
Q
Non comedogenic
A
not going to cause blackheads (comedones)
33
Q
Day moisturizer
A
- applied after cleansing and toning and before applying makeup, may contain spf
- contains 85-90% humectant and 15-10% emollient
- has a light liquid formulation
- used on: young combo skin, dehydrated skin, normal, sensitive skin
34
Q
Moisturising creams
A
- contains up to 70-85% humectant and 15-30% emollient
- has a thicker formulation and cant be poured
- used on: dry skin/alipidic skin and mature skin
35
Q
Moisturizing gel
A
- contains up to 80-90% humectant and 10-20% hydroxyethylcellulose (gelling agent)
- light texture, non-oily suited for younger skins
- added ingredients: aloe vera, glycerin, purified water, allantoin, panthenol
- used on: oily and acne skin
36
Q
Night cream/moisturizer
A
- applied at night after cleansing, toning and perhaps blotting
- contains more emollients (makes it more expensive) and is thicker
- oil helps to seal the surface and prevent moisture loss
- contain active ingredients: such as plant extracts and vitamins which are most effective at night when the skin is most receptive and there is active cell repair and cell renewal taking place
37
Q
Neck cream (can also be sold as a neck + bust cream)
30+ years
A
- first area to show signs of ageing
- as the client ages the collagen fibres in the dermis become weak and the collagen looses its ability to hold moisture and plumpness which causes wrinkles and sagging of the skin
- formulation is similar to a night cream
- contains a lot of anti ageing ingredients to help improve condition of skin (vitamins, elastin and amino acids)
- should be applied in a gentle, upwards stroking movement with the finger tips (gravity pulls the skin down)
38
Q
Eye cream
25+ years
A
- eye tissue is very fine and easily becomes dry which emphasizes fine lines (Crows feet)
- special care must be taken to not stretch the skin as this area contains a large number of mast cells which respond to an irritant
- too much rubbing in the area may cause it to become red and swollen
- contain firming ingredients and are usually applied at night with the ring finger as it uses less pressure (use gentle, circular motions inwards toward the nose)
*mature client may apply it in the morning as well
39
Q
Eye gel
20+ years
A
- applied in the morning to help reduce puffiness + dark circles ( can be applied at night as well)
- has a cooling and soothing effect
- contains stimulating and draining ingredients: green tea, aloe, rooi bos
- client who is concerned with ageing and dark circles can apply eye gel in the morning and eye cream at night)
40
Q
2 types of dark rings around the eyes
A
1) Brown/yellow pigmentation rings (not from melanin)- inherited form, only laser or light chemical peels can reduce this
2) Reddish, purple/blue rings- the skin around the eye is very thin in some clients and so the blood vessels around eye and beneath the skin of the eye are more visible
41
Q
Other causes of puffiness and dark circles
A
- lack of sleep
- poor diet and smoking
- lack of exercise
- genetic
- allergies
- high salt intake (edema) causes puffiness
42
Q
Draw a diagram illustrating a w/o and o/w emulsion
A
in notes
43
Q
Acid mantle =
A
slightly acidic which prevents microbial invasion
44
Q
pH of skin
A
4.5-5.6
