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RHS Level 2 - Unit 2113 > Site selection > Flashcards

Site selection Flashcards

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1
Q

Factors to be considered when selecting a site for outdoor food production

A

Area (of Land Available)

Accessibility

Aspect

Availability of water

Slope

Susceptibility to frost and wind

Shade

Soil - Depth, Drainage, pH, Structure, Texture

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2
Q

Site suitability considerations for Area of land available

A
  • window sill or large allotment
  • make best use of space available
  • e.g. veg plot, pottage garden, containers, raised beds, dwarf cultivars.
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3
Q

Site suitability considerations for Accessibility

A
  • tools and resources close to hand
  • easy access to site
  • paths wide enough - deliveries?
  • on-site storage - security?
  • access to water
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4
Q

Site suitability considerations for Aspect

A
  • direction to which site is open
  • south-facing is best (North won’t get sun)
  • sheltered, but open to air movement
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5
Q

Site suitability considerations for Availability of Water

A
  • need water source - standpipe?
  • run hosepipe - summer months
  • have water butts for rainwater
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6
Q

Site suitability considerations for Slope

A
  • level or slight southerly slope
  • steeper slopes cause problems:
  • rain can erode topsoil
  • loses moisture and nutrients
  • maintenance is gruelling!
  • more exposure at top than lower down
  • water drains downwards = water-logging and leaching of nutrients.
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7
Q

Site suitability considerations for Susceptibility to Frost and Wind

A
  • Frost pockets damage fruit buds, fruitlets, seedlings, mature plants;
  • Frost pockets form at base of slope, in areas of shade, by hedges across a slope.
  • Wind damage - plants are sensitive to wind!
  • Wind causes soil erosion - particles blown away;
  • Wind causes plants to lose water - higher transpiration;
  • Coastal winds case salt damage - scorch plants
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8
Q

Site suitability considerations for Shade

A
  • site should not be overshadowed by trees or buildings - crops shaded from essential sunlight;
  • there is extra warmth in area in front of south-facing wall - sunny spot!
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9
Q

Site suitability considerations for Soil TEXTURE

A
  • sand, silt or clay?
  • loamy, mixed soil is best for a wide range of plants;
  • root veg like sandier soils (warm & good drainage)
  • brassicas like more clay soil (but be careful of water-logging?!)
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10
Q

Site suitability considerations for Soil STRUCTURE

A
  • how particles clump together
  • poor structure is easily compacted, easily waterlogged and restricts root growth;
  • air available?
  • mixed crumb structure is idea - OM is essential - add in to improve structure;
  • need high diversity of organisms - OM helps this!
  • cultivation can help improve structure
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11
Q

Site suitability considerations for Soil DRAINAGE

A
  • influenced by texture and structure;
  • needs to be well aerated and well-drained, not prone to waterlogging, yet moisture retentive;
  • waterlogging kills plants;
  • artificial drainage or raised beds can remedy
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12
Q

Site suitability considerations for Soil DEPTH

A
  • good depth important for root system of fruit trees;
  • built-up beds or containers - raised beds?
  • root crops need deeper soil;
  • earth-up potatoes;
  • 45cm ideal depth for fruit trees;
  • 30cm ideal depth for veg plants.
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13
Q

Site suitability considerations for Soil pH

A
  • pH affects how well plants take up mineral nutrients;
  • may develop deficiencies if pH is inappropriate;
  • pH of 6.5 to 7.0 is suitable for most crops;
  • blueberries and cranberries like a low pH;
  • brassicas favour higher pH - up to 7.5 (protects against clubroot)
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14
Q

Reasons for providing shelter - influences on growth of crops

A
  • limits damage by exposure to wind (leaf injury, branch injury, snapped stems, blown over, fruits knocked);
  • limits water loss (wind = transpiration);
  • insects less likely to fly in windy conditions - affects pollinators (BUT also pests!);
  • limits frost damage to buds;
  • provides warmth early and late in the year;
  • provides microclimate - increases crop production.
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15
Q

Definition of a windbreak?

A

A semi-permeable barrier.

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16
Q

Examples of living windbreaks

A

Hedges filter and baffle wind

Shelterbelts - for larger sites - taller trees planted in 3-4 rows, offset - facing prevailing wind.

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17
Q

Examples of non-living windbreaks

A

Netting or plastic mesh (50-60cm high)

Paraweb (webbing) - taller screens over 1.5m

Hit & miss fencing (panels attached to alternate sides of posts)

Hurdles woven from willow or hazel - stakes or whips, woven dead or green - placed at angle to prevailing wind.

Trellis

18
Q

Living windbreaks - Benefits (x4):

A

Look good - aesthetically pleasing

Long lasting

Habitat and food for wildlife

Encourages beneficial organisms

19
Q

Living windbreaks - Limitations (x5):

A

Takes time to establish and grow - not an instant shelter!

Needs regular maintenance

May harbour pests and diseases

Takes up space

Can compete with crops

20
Q

Non-living windbreaks - Benefits (x4):

A

Erects quickly with little effort

Provides instant protection

Low maintenance

Uses little space - good for smaller sites

No competition with crops for nutrients

21
Q

Non-living windbreaks - Limitations (x3)

A

Don’t look as nice

Don’t last as long - e.g. fencing would need regular replacement

No benefit to wildlife

22
Q

Examples of species for living windbreak (x5)

A

Fagus sylvatica

Taxus baccata

Ilex aquifolium

Carpinus betulus (Hornbeam)

Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn)

23
Q

List soil cultivation techniques suitable for vegetable garden

A

Single and double digging

Rotary cultivation

Consolidation

Tilth production

24
Q

Describe single and double digging

A

Ideally in autumn or spring:

Single - remove one spit deep of soil, and invert.

Double - remove one spit deep of soil and work the second spit with fork, incorporating OM.

25
Q

Describe rotary cultivation

A

Mechanical cultivation - less strenuous

In clay/wet, can compact or cause soil pan

In dry, can produce too fine a tilth

Remove perennial weeds - don’t chop in!

26
Q

Describe tilth production

A

Secondary cultivation is the final stage of preparation to achieve a good soil - a good surface tilth

Fine seeds like a good tilth of small, even particles - a fine crumb (this retains moisture and nutrients - aids germination).

Don’t cultivate if soil is too wet/sticky/dry/dusty

After winter, quickly go over with fork/hoe/rake/manual cultivator - breaks up surface clods and uneven surface

Tramp lightly and rake surface in push-pull motion

Larger seeds can have a larger crumb

27
Q

What influences the timing of soil cultivation?

A

Soil texture

Soil structure

Weather

Climate

28
Q

Effects of weather on soil cultivation - inc. cultivation window

A

Too wet - will damage structure

Winter into spring - too wet?

Clay soils should never be worked when wet

Frozen - impossible to work

Later spring - cultivation can recommence

Timings are called the “cultivation window”

Window can vary - weather in north and south differ a lot

Window is shorter in the north - soil takes longer to warm up

Light, sandy or silty soils are better worked in the spring

29
Q

Describe a bed system (layout etc)

A

Relatively small, separate beds in a garden or allotment

Laid out in patterns, so that there are pathways adjacent or through the bed

All parts of bed are accessible

Beds should be 1.5m wide and 3m long

Not necessary to step on soil

Warms quicker if beds are raised (e.g. 30cm)

30
Q

Limitations of not using beds and just using open ground

A

Long parallel drills or rows (e.g. kitchen garden)

Access means walking on soil to maintain it

More likely need to cultivate each year to relieve compaction

31
Q

Describe raised beds, including benefits

A

Typical raised bed is 1.5m wide and 3m long.

Paths in between must be at least 50cm wide (1m if wheelchair is used)

Bed height 30cm

Better drainage in raised bed, .˙. warms up quick in spring, due to raised height

Raised with walls - bricks or planks (with wooden pegs on outside) on side edges.

Filled with quality topsoil enriched with OM

Useful if plants require a specialised soil type different to underlying soil

Do not have to have edges - soil can be thrown-up, creating chamfered edge between bed and path

Can be built to any height - bricks are better when building high (can help disabled gardeners)

32
Q

Benefits of “no-dig” method

A

Minimises problems associated with disturbing the soil, e.g.:

bringing weeds to surface

soil degradation - loss of stability

soil opened up, allowing in air and water

spread of pests and diseases between beds (result of walking on soil)

disturbance of organisms, e.g. worms

No walking on beds so no compaction

If beds are raised access is easy

Less soil maintenance - digging, weeding etc.

33
Q

“No-dig” method

A

Mark out beds - include narrow path

Remove all weeds, esp. perennials

Double dig if necessary - incorporate BOM

Apply further OM to surface, to build up

If no weeds or no cultivation needed:

place layer of cardboard over surface**

water cardboard thoroughly (helps breakdown)

spread layer of OM over top, 10cm thick (holds down card and suppresses weeds)

Interplanting or green manures maintain a dense cover on ground

Stay on top of hand-weeding - be vigilant - weed around beds also!

Keep adding more OM to surface when depleted.

** Instead of cardboard, can use porous, woven black plastic (Mypex) - cut slits (crosses) and plant through these.

34
Q

Benefits of advancing and extending the growing season

A

allows early sowing

protects plants from early frosts

brings on tender veg for planting out

allows late crops to continue and overwinter

35
Q

Advancing/extending the season - main methods

A

Mulches

Fleece

Enviromesh

Perforated, clear poly sheeting

Cloches

Low tunnels

Cold frames

Warm soil over winter with black poly sheeting

Start off plants indoors or under glass for earlier vegetable harvest

36
Q

Extending the season - describe the benefits of MULCHES + examples of organic & non-organic

A

These dress the top of the soil

Mulch when still warm and not water-logged!

  • they insulate and help reduce evaporation
  • they stop weed seeds growing
  • they add nutrients and OM

Organic mulches:

  • garden compost
  • horse manure
  • straw
  • seaweed

Non-organic mulches:

  • plastic sheeting - make slits
  • decorative stone or gravel
37
Q

Extending the season - describe the use of FLOATING MULCHES/FLEECE etc

A

Horticultural fleece is a spun plastic crop cover:

  • insulates against frost
  • light and loose
  • different grades
  • edges should be weighted down

Enviromesh is a woven plastic mesh netting:

  • excludes flying insects (flies, butterflies, aphids)
  • lasts longer than fleece but less frost protection

Poly sheeting - perforated, clear is not so useful!

  • warms soil but doesn’t hold heat and can also overheat!
  • no air/water exchange
38
Q

Extending the season - describe CLOCHES and use of

A

Structures placed or built on top of plants

range of shapes, sizes and materials

glass, PVC, polycarbonate. metal or plastic frame

individual cloches can be as simple as a halved plastic bottle!

allows early spring start and later year protection

allows overwintering of suitable crops

protects from rain and wind

higher humidity - keeps warm

inexpensive, moveable, versatile

deters pests - rabbits, birds

39
Q

Extending the season - describe LOW TUNNELS and the use of

A

Small polytunnels for a row of plants (hooped frames)

moved and dismantled easily

poly film can be pulled back in stages to harden plants off

can also be made using fleece

40
Q

Extending the season - describe COLD FRAMES and the use of

A

Low frame made from wood, brick, aluminium

Glass or polycarbonate “lights” that can be raised or slid upwards to allow in air

Protects against rain and wind - also frost if insulated

Maintains a higher temperature and humidity

Acclimatises plants that have been overwintered in a greenhouse

Seeds can be sown earlier in the year

RHS Level 2 - Unit 2113 (3 decks)

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