Section B - Coastal Landscapes and Change Flashcards
What is a high-energy environment?
Where the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition
What is a low-energy environment?
Where the rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion
Characteristics of high energy coastlines?
Older resistant rock (igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic) that are all resistant to the erosive powers of the sea, wind and rain
Characteristics of low energy coastlines?
Weaker and younger sedimentary rocks including clays, chalks, sand and sandstone - more susceptible to erosion - leaves areas of low, flat relief or coastal plains
Inputs of the coastal system (4)
Marine - waves, tides, storm surges
Atmospheric - weather/climate, climate change and solar energy
Land - Rock type and structure, tectonic activity
People - Human and coastal management
Processes of the coastal system (5)
Weathering
Mass movement
Erosion
Transport
Deposition
Outputs of the coastal system (3)
Erosional landforms
Depositional landforms
Different types of coast
What is the littoral zone?
An area of the coastline which has all features of a complex coastal system - inputs, outputs and processes
The four ways in which coasts can be classified?
Geology - this can create rocky, sandy, estuarine, concordant and discordant coasts
Energy levels - high or low energy coastlines
Balance between erosion and deposition - creating either erosional or depositional coasts and their features
Changes in sea level - creating emergent or submergent coasts
What is coastal morphology?
The shape and form of coastal landscapes and their features - related to underlying geology, rock type and geological structure (lithology)
What is strata?
Layers of rocks
What are bedding planes?
Horizontal cracks - natural breaks in the strata caused by gaps in time during periods of rock formation
What are joints?
Vertical cracks - Fractures caused by either contractions as sediments dry out or by earth movements during uplift
What are folds?
Formed by pressure during tectonic activity which makes rocks buckle and crumple (EG Lulworth Cove)
What are faults?
Formed when the stress or pressure to which a rock is subjected exceeds its internal strength causing it to fracture - the faults then slip or move along fault planes
What does dip refer to?
The angle at which rock strata lie (horizontally, vertically, dipping towards to sea or dipping inland)
Characteristics and examples of igneous rocks?
Resistant and permeable (EG granite) - very slow recession rate - recedes at less than 0.1cm per year
Characteristics and examples of sedimentary rocks?
Formed in strata (EG limestone, chalk, sandstone and shale) - recedes moderately quickly (0.4-10cm per year)
Characteristics and examples of metamorphic rocks?
Very hard, impermeable and resistant (EG marble and schist) - slow recession rate - 0.1-0.3cm per year
What are concordant coasts?
Where bands of more resistant and less resistant rock run parallel to the coast
What are Dalmatian coasts?
Coastlines where valleys and ridges run parallel to each other - when they are flooded the tops of the ridges remain above the water as a series of offshore islands (EG Dalmatian coast in Croatia)
What are Haff coasts?
Long spits of sand and lagoons aligned parallel to the coast
What are discordant coastlines?
Where the geology alternates between bands of more resistant and less resistant rock - forms bays at low resistance and headlands at more resistance
What are headlands?
Headlands force the oncoming waves to refract or bend – concentrating their energy at the headlands – this increases the waves’ erosive power which leads to a steepening of the cliffs and their eventual erosion into arches and stacks
What are bays?
When waves enter a bay, their energy is dissipated (spread out) and reduced – this leads to the deposition of sediment (sand or shingle) forming a beach
Marine processes - Erosion definition
The break down and removal of materials by water wind and ice - EG hydraulic action, abrasion and corrosion, attrition and solution
Types of erosion - Hydraulic Action
The process by which breaking waves compress pockets of air in cracks in a cliff - the pressure may cause the crack to widen, breaking off the rock
Types of erosion - Attrition
Erosion caused when rocks and boulders transported by waves bump into each other and break up into smaller, smoother, more rounded pieces
Types of erosion - Abrasion
The wearing away of cliffs by sediment rubbing against a rock platform
Types of erosion - Solution/corrosion
Soluble particles dissolving into the sea
Landforms created by coastal erosion - wave-cut notch
When waves break against the foot of a cliff, erosion tends to be concentrated close to the high tide line - this creates a wave cut notch which begins to undercut the cliff - as the wave-cut notch gets bigger, the rock above becomes unstable and eventually the upper part of the cliff collapses
Landforms created by coastal erosion - wave-cut platform
As wave-cut notches get bigger, they migrate inland and the cliff retreats, leaving behind a wave cut platform - waves will break earlier and dissipate meaning these only extend a few hundred meters
Landforms created by coastal erosion - cliffs
Constant wave action and erosion against the base of the cliff ensure that it maintains a steep profile as it retreats inland - steepest cliffs = vertical or horizontal rock strata - gentlest = where rock dips towards or away from the sea
Describe the process of waves, arches, stacks and stumps?
Erosion of rocks EG limestone and chalk tends to exploit lines of weakness EG joints, faults and cracks - when joints and faults are eroded by hydraulic action and abrasion, this can create caves – if the overlying rock then collapses, a blowhole will develop as the cave opens up at ground level – during storm high tides, seawater can be blown out of these blowholes with considerable force
If two caves on either side of a headland join up, or a single cave is eroded through a headland, an arch is formed – this gap is then further enlarged by erosion and weathering – becoming wider at the base
Eventually, the top of the arch will become unstable and collapse leaving an isolated pillar called a stack – the stack itself will continue to be eroded by the sea and as it collapses and is eroded further, it may only appear above the surface at low tide, and is now known as a stump
Process of sediment transport - LSD
Waves approach beach at angle of prevailing wind, carry sediment up beach at angle - backwash then pulls sediment back down at right angles to the beach - net movement is a lateral shift of sediment down the beach
What are the six coastal depositional landforms?
1) Spits
2) Beaches
3) Offshore bars
4) Barrier beaches (bars)
5) Tombolos
6) Cuspate foreland
Coastal depositional landforms - Spits
Long narrow feature made up of sand or shingle on drift aligned beaches - sediment moved along by LSD but if a coast suddenly changes direction a spit will build across the estuary mouth
Coastal depositional landforms - Beaches
Commonly found in bays where wave refraction creates a low energy environment which leads to deposition - can consist of either sand or shingle and be swash aligned or drift aligned
Coastal depositional landforms - Offshore bars
Submerged ridges of sand or coarse sediment created by waves from offshore of the coast - destructive waves erode the sand from the beach with their strong backwash and deposit it offshore in bars
Coastal depositional landforms - Barrier beach (bars)
Where a spit extends across a bay to join two headlands, it forms a barrier beach EG Loe Bar in Cornwall - can trap water behind and form lagoons - where a beach becomes separated from the mainland this is called a barrier island
Coastal depositional landforms - Tombolos
A beach that has formed between a small island and the mainland - deposition occurs when waves lose their energy and the tombolo begins to build up
Coastal depositional landforms - Cuspate forelands
Triangular shaped headland that extends out from the main coastline - occurs where a coast is exposed to LSD from opposite directions - sediment is deposited at the point where the two meet which helps to form a natural triangular shape as it builds up - as vegetation grows on the cuspate foreland it helps stabilise it and protect it from storms and erosion
Stabilising depositional landforms - sand dunes
Sandy beaches may be backed by sand dunes formed by sand which has been blown off the beach by strong winds - dunes can develop where sand is initially trapped by debris towards the back of the beach and are stabilised by plant succession
Stabilising depositional landforms - plant succession
Bare ground gradually consolidated by pioneer species - pioneer species modify the environment by binding soil and adding nutrients when they die - creeping plants then help the sand retain moisture which allows species to colonise - this then stabilises the land as more species develop - the final community will then be adjusted to the climatic conditions of the area - known as the climatic climax community
What is a sediment cell?
Systems with sources, transfers and sinks - amount of sediment available in a sediment cell is called the sediment budget - within each cell, depositional figures are in equilibrium with the amount of sediment available - if the sediment budget falls depositions increases but if the sediment budget increases more deposition is likely - the ways in which the system attempts to balance this is known as dynamic equilibrium
What are sub-aerial processes?
Sub-aerial processes are land based processes which alter the shape of the coastline - these are a combination of weathering and mass movement
What is weathering?
The gradual breakdown of rock in situ at or close to the ground surface - divided into mechanical, chemical and biological - by breaking down rock, weathering creates sediment which the sea can use to help erode the coast
Types of mechanical weathering? (3)
1) Freeze-thaw weathering
2) Wetting and drying
3) Salt-weathering
What is freeze-thaw weathering?
Water seeps into cracks in rocks and freezes - this then expands by about 10% - repeated freeze thaw weathering puts pressure on the rocks until they crack and break the rock - usually occurs when the temp oscillates around freezing point - shattered fragments of rock collect at the bottom of the cliff as scree
What is salt crystallisation?
When salt evaporates, it leaves salt crystals behind - these can grow over time and exert stresses in the rock, just as ice does, causing it to break up - salt can also corrode rock, particularly if it has traces of iron
What is wetting and drying?
Frequent cycles of wetting and drying are common on the coast - rocks rich in clay (EG shale) expand when they get wet and contract when they dry - this can cause them to crack and break up
Examples of biological weathering? (4)
- Thin plant roots start to grow into small cracks in a cliff face – these cracks then widen as the roots grow thicker, which breaks up the rock
- Water running through decaying vegetation becomes acidic which leads to increased chemical weathering
- Birds and animals dig burrows into cliffs
- Marine organisms are also capable of burrowing into rocks or secreting acids
What is chemical weathering? (carbonation)
- Carbonation occurs when rainwater absorbs CO2 from the air to form a weak carbonic acid – this reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks such as limestone and chalk to form calcium bicarbonate which is easily dissolved – the cooler the temp of the rainwater, the more CO2 is absorbed, increasing the effect of carbonation in winter
What is mass movement?
The movement of weathered material down a slope due to gravity
Types of mass movement
- Flow - very slight movement - soil creep/solifluction
- Flow - slow to rapid movement - mudflow/earthflow
- Slide - slow to rapid movement - rock fall, rock slide, slump
What is soil creep? (flows)
The slowest form of MM - almost continuous process - very slow downhill movement of individual soil particles
What is solifluction? (flows)
Averages between 5cm and 1m per year - occurs mainly in tundras where the ground is frozen - when the top layer of soil thaws in summer, the surface layer becomes saturated and flows over the frozen subsoil and rocks
What are earth-flows and mudflows? (flows)
An increase in the amount of water (EG due to heavy rain) can reduce friction causing earth and mud to flow over underlying bedrock
What are rock falls (slides)
Rock falls are most likely to occur when strong, jointed, steep rick faces are exposed to mechanical weathering – on slopes over 40 degrees - material either bounces or fall vertically to form scree at the foot of the cliff - block falls are similar to rock falls – a large block of rock falls away from the cliff due to the jointing of the rock