Section 2 Flashcards
What do fibres come in?
Short length (staple fibres) and long lengths (filaments)
Can filaments be cut into stable fibres?
Yes
How is yarn produced?
Stable fibres are spun to produced yarn and tend to be hairier, also filaments can be spun as they are and the yarn is more smooth
Where do natural fibres come from?
Natural sources eg cotton, silkworms, sheep
What length to natural fibres come in?
Staple fires apart from silk they come in filament fibres
What happens after the natural fibres are harvested?
They’re cleaned, straightened before there spun
What do natural fibres come from?
Natural sources
Are natural fibres biodegradable and sustainable?
Yes
What are advantages about natural fibres?
There absorbent and strong
What are disadvantages about natural fibres?
Poor resistance to biological damage eg mound and moths
What are regenerated fibres?
Are made of natural materials that are chemically treated to produce fibres.
Are all regenerated fibres the same?
No different fibres are made by using different chemicals
Give an example of a regenerated fibre.
Viscose fibres are made by dissolving cellulose in sodium hydroxide solutions. This liquid is forced through tiny holes, and hardened to form filament fibres. These filaments are stretched into a yarn which is around onto spools, or chopped into staple lengths
Are regenerated fibres sustainable?
The fibres have a renewable origin but many are made using synthetic chemicals, which make them less sustainable than natural fibres. However, some regenerated fibres like ten cel are produced so that almost all of the chemicals used can be recycled, and the fibres are recyclable and biodegradable
What properties do regenerated fibres have?
They have similar properties to natural fibres, but can be given different properties by using different chemicals
What are synthetic fibres?
Man made fibres
What are synthetic fibres made of?
They’re made from polymers, long chains of molecules. These molecules come mainly from coal and oil
How are synthetic fibres made?
The polymers are melted or dissolved in solution. This liquid is then forced through tiny holes and hardened to form filament fibres
How are synthetic fibres turned into yarn?
The filaments are stretched into yarn which is wound onto spools, or chopped into staple lengths
What are synthetic fibres properties?
They can be given different properties. In general, they’re resistant to biological damage, and can be changed by heating to form different shapes and textures. However they’re not very absorbent , so can be hard to dye
Are synthetic fibres sustainable?
They are made from non-renewable sources, they’re less sustainable than other types of fibres
What are fabrics made of?
Yarn or fibres which are stuck together
What are 3 weaves?
Plain, twill and satin
What are fabrics made of?
Yarn
What are woven fabrics?
Different woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarn - the weft, which travels from right to left, and the wrap, which travels up and down the weave
What is a plain weave?
The simplest weave - the went yarn passes over and under alternate warp yarns, making it unpatterned
What are the properties of a plain weave?
It’s hard wearing, strong and holds it shape well. It also has a smooth finish (making it good for printing)
What weave is the cheapest and used to make loads of fabrics, especially cotton based ones?
Pain weave
What is a twill weave?
A twill weave creates a diagonal pattern on the surface of the fabric. Eg the weft yarn goes over two yarns and under one. The next weft yarn repeats this, but one warp yarn further along
What are the properties of a twill weave?
It’s stronger and drapes better than a plain weave
What is a twill weave used for?
Denim
What’s a satin weave?
The weft yarn goes over four or more warp threads and under one
Why is a satin weave shiny?
The long weft yarns on the surface (called floats) catch the light, so satin weave makes shiny fabrics like satin
What’s bad about a satin weave?
The floats can snag, so the fabric is quite delicate and doesn’t resist abrasion
What are non woven fibres?
Non woven fabrics are layers of fibres held together by bonding or felting
What are the advantages of non weave?
They don’t fray, and can be cut in any direction, which means there’s little waste when laying out patterns
What are disadvantages of non woven fibres?
They don’t stretch and aren’t very strong
What are bonded fabrics?
These are webs fibres held together by glue, stitches needle punches or heat
What are bonded fabrics used for?
They’re used for interfacing, artificial leathers and disposable cloths
What are felted fabrics?
Felting is an older way of making non-woven fabric. Felt is made by combing pressure, moisture and hearts interlock a mat of wool fibres
What are felted fabrics used for?
Carpet, underlay, craft material, hats, jewellery and snooker table coverings
How are knitted fabrics made?
Knitted fabrics are made by interlocking one or more yarn together using loops
What are advantages about knitted fabrics?
These loops tarp air, making knitted fabrics good insulators. They also stretch more than woven fabrics
What is a weft knitted fabric?
The yarn runs across the fabric, making interlocking loops with the row of yarn beneath
What are properties about weft knitted fabrics?
These fabrics stretch and can lose their shape easily, also if the yarn breaks it can unravel and make a ladder
What are weft knitted used for?
Jumpers, socks and t-shirts
How are weft knitted fabrics produced?
Hand or machine
How is a warp knitted fabrics made?
The yarns run up the fabric, in loops, which interlock vertically
What are the properties of warp knitted fabrics?
They’re stretchy but still keep their shape. These fabrics are hard to unravel and are less likely to ladder
What are made out of warp knitted fabrics?
Tights, swimwear, fleeces and some bed sheets
How are warp knitted made?
They’re made by machine and the machines can be expensive
How do you find how a fabric is made?
1) Pick it apart to see how it’s constructed
2) if the yarns run straight, it’s woven, to work out which type of weave it is, count how many warp yarns the weft yarns cross before they go underneath one
3) if the yarns loop around each other in a repeated pattern, it’s knitted, weft knitted fabrics will have a simpler pattern than warp knitted ones
4) if there are no yarns, just fibres, it’s no woven.
What is embroidery?
Embroidery is decorative stitching it can be done by hand or machine . Different types of thread give different textures and finishes. CAM embroidery machines can be used to automatically produce designs
What are advantages of embroidery?
1) can do very intricate designs
2) adds texture as well as colour
3) hand embroidery fives unique results
4) quick to do by machine - can be done automatically using cam and cad
What is the disadvantages of embroidery?
1) can be easily damaged so it’s more difficult to care for
2) very time consuming and expensive if done by hand
3) hand embroidered products won’t be identical
How do beads a sequins add decoration?
They add colour and textiles
They also reflect light
You can buy sequin material
What is quilting?
Quilting used wadding between two layers of fabric which are them stitched together in straight lines or in a pattern
An advantage of quilting?
Creates a 3D effect and also gives warmth because the wadding trod air
What are the disadvantages about quilting?
Requires a lot of material
Time consuming
What is a appliqué?
Appliqués involves cutting shapes out of fabrics and seeing them onto a textiles product
What is a padded appliqués?
Appliqué can be passed by placing wadding between the fabric pieces, this adds a 3D effect
What is a reverse appliqué?
This is when holes are cut out of the main fabric and the appliqué is sewn on behind the hole on the inside of the product
How do add a appliqué?
1) position the cut shape on the fabric and keep in places using pins, taking stitches, or a fusible interface like bondaweb
2) the use of bondaweb can also add bulk, stop the appliqué from stretching when it’s being sewn and prevent worsen fabric from fraying
3) fraying can also be prevented by folding the edges of the shape under before stitching
4) machine stitch the design. A close zig zag stitch is usually used - or different stitches can be used for others effects
What are advantages of appliqués?
1) it strengths the base fabric because it makes a double layer
2) shapes can be repeated accurately if templates are used
3) it allows scrapes of fabric to be used rather than being wasted
4) it can be used to add colour and texture to large areas
5) it can be seen automatically using CAM machines
Disadvantages of appliqué?
1) requires a lot of extra material
2) it adds thickness and weighs the product
What is screen printing?
Commercial screen printing uses machines to repeat the same pattern all the way along a log length of fabric
What are two methods of commercial screen printing?
Commercial flats screen printing and rotary screen printing
What is commercial flat-bed screen printing?
This is similar to flat-bed screen printing by hand. Several screens are used - one for each colour
How does a flat -bed printer work?
The fabric passes under the screens on a conveyor belt and the colours are applied one after the other
What is rotary screen printing?
Rotary screen printing is similar to flat -bed screen printing but the screens aw on cylinders
Is rotary screen print fast and widely used?
Yes
How many metres can be printed every minute by a rotary screen printer?
300m
Advantages of Commercial screen printing?
1) just as with hand printing, intricate patterns using many colours can be repeated accurately
2) the machinery makes the printing process much quicker and large amounts of fabric can be printed at once. Rotary printing is the quickest way - as fabric is passed along the conveyer belt continuously
3) the screen making process can be computer - controlled, which makes it quicker
Disadvantages about commercial screen printing?
1) set up commercial machinery is expensive
2) screen making takes a long time, unless it’s done using CAM/CAD
Why are fabric finishes used?
1) to change the appearance of the fabric
2) to change the fabric texture
3) to change wearing properties
4) to change after care characteristics
When are fabrics finishes used?
Last stage or fabric processing
Name finishes?
Flame retardance Water resistance Stain resistance Shrink resistance Crease resistance Thermochromic
What is printing?
1) printing is the process of applying ink, dye or paint to fabric in defined patterns
2) printing can be done in small quantities by hand, or in large quantities commercially
3) materials with a tight weave are best for printing on because they have a smooth surface for the dye to be applied to and no surface pattern to detract from the design
What do you need a printing block with?
A raised design
How to make a printing block?
1) you can make one by drawing a pattern on a piece of wood and then cutting the background away , leaving the drain raised
2) or you can stick pieces of card or sting onto a solid block
3) you can also buy rubber blocks with designs already on them
What are advantages of printing blocks?
1) you can print with different colours using the same block
2) you can use several blocks to build up a more complicated design
3) you can easily repeat designs
4) you can use the same block many times before it wears out
What are the disadvantages of printing blocks?
1) making the blocks takes a long time
2) it’s not good for fine detail
What is flat bed screen printing?
The screen is a frame with fine mesh covering it. A stencil is it form card or acetate by hand or using CAD/CAM and put beneath the screen. Alternatively, parts of the screen itself can be blocked off to create the design. Printing ink is lured into the screen. A squeegee is pressed down and drawn across the screen, forcing the ink through the mesh and the holes in the stencil. The screen is lifted up and the design is left in the fabric
What are the advantages of flat bed printing?
1) can produce intricate patterns that can be repeated accurately
2) good for printing large areas of colour
3) easy to use many colours by using several screens
4) printing is quick to do (once you have the screens/stencils)
What are the disadvantages of flat bed screen printing?
1) making the screens/ stencils takes a long time
2) each colour has to be applied separately
What is flame retardence?
Flame retardance finishes are chemicals that make fabrics less likely to catch fire
What is flame retardance used on?
They’re often used on flammable fibres like cotton. Products they’re used on include workwear for welders, racing drivers overalls, night clothes and fabric for soft furnishings to make them meet fire safety requirements
What are Thermochromic dyes?
Change from one colour to another when temperature changes
How are Thermochromic dyes put Onto a fabric?
They can be printed onto fabrics to give a smart finish one that responds to changed units surroundings
Advantages of zips?
1) secure fastening - they close the product fully with no gaps
2) they’re quick and simple to attach
3) they lay flat and don’t add bulk
4) they’re hard wearing and can be washed
5) colours can match or contrast with the fabrics
Disadvantages of a zip?
1) they can snag delicate fabrics
2) they don’t add any interest to products
3) they’re difficult to replace
What are toggles and buttons?
Theses are sewn on and require a buttonhole or a loop to fasten to. They can be made of any hard material - plastic, metal, wood and even glass
Advantages of goggles and buttons?
1) they’re easy to attach and replace
2) colours can match or constant with the fabric
3) they add decoration
What are disadvantages of toggles and buttons?
1) they can fall off - a chocking hazard on children’s products
2) they’re not very strong fastenings
3) that can be damaged in the wash
What are natural dyes?
Until 1850s all dyes came from natural dyes. They’re made from things like onions, beetroot, tea or flower etc
What are advantages of chemical dyes?
- colours are brighter
- easier and cheaper to make
- exactly the same colour can be achieved repeatedly
What are the disadvantages of hemical dyes?
Some are toxic - they can be harmful to people and the environment
What fabrics are better for dyeing than others?
1) natural fibres are he best for dyeing as they’re very absorbent
2) the couloir of the fabric you begin with makes a difference to the final colour, eg if you dye yellow fabric red you get orange
3) fabrics that have an uneven colour need to be bleached before dyeing to ensure an even colour
4) for some fabrics and dyes you need to use a chemical called a mordant (eg salt) to fix the colour to the fabric. This makes the fabric colour fast - dye won’t come out in the wash
What are components?
- They are pre-manufactured parts
- components at the bits and pieces that you use in addition to the fabric to make a textile product.
- they can be functional eg zip to close your coat ore decorative eg lace edging
What are zips?
1) they can be made out of plastics or metal, and be big and bulky or sank and concealed (hidden) I. Your textile design
2) some zips are fixed at one end (eg on hand bags). Zips on jackets are not fixed (so you can get the jacket off)
3) zoos with two sliders can be opened in two directions - the ends can be fixed (eg on suitcases) or open (eg in some jackets)
What are advantages of Velcro?
1) safe and soft (good for kids products)
2) it can be machine washable
3) it’s hard wearing
What are the disadvantages on Velcro?
1) hooks collect fibres after time and become less sticky
2) not very decorative
What is Velcro?
1) Velcro comes in two halves - a rough tape and a smooth tape. Nylon hooks on the rough half attach to soft loops on the smooth half
2) Velcro requires a large amount of force to open it - so it needs to be firmly attached to the fabric and isn’t suitable for using with delicate fabrics
What are press studs (poppers)?
These can be used to fasten items that need to be opened and closed quickly. They can be made of metal or plastic and come in different sizes depending on the strength of fastening you require (bigger metal press studs are harder to open than small plastic press studs). And they’re not ver decorative
Aw some component fastenings?
Yes
What are labels?
1) labels show care instructions and the fibre content
2) safety information and size might also be shown on a label
What are threads?
1) threads can be used for joining fabric, securing other components or decorative stitching
2) they come in different thicknesses and textures. Sewing threads are fine and will form neat and strong seams. Embroidery threads can be thicker and have a variety of textures
What are trimming?
1) trimmings include lace, ribbons, braid, laces, beads and sequins
2) they’re mainly used to add decoration
3) ribbons, braids and laces can also be threaded through eyelets or holes to make fastening. But they’re often not vey secure
What are electronic components?
Electronic components can be added to textile products for decoration (eg LED lights in clothing) or for function (eg heated motorbike clothing?
2) power for components can be supplied from batteries or solar panels that are integrated into the textile product
What are interfacing?
Interfacing as are extra layers of fabric hidden inside a product. They’re used to give strength, support and stability
How are some interfacing fusible?
They’re fusible because they stick into materials when heated (eg ironing). Bondaweb is a fusible double sided interfacing used to bind fabrics together. It’s used, for example, appliqués
What are interfacing a used for?
They’re used in collars, cuffs, around button holes, and anywhere a product needs extra strength
What are motifs?
Are small fabric badges (often embroidered) that are sewn on to add decoration. They can be used to show membership of clubs or teams
What are technological advances in component design?
1) Sensors in clothes that monitor things like heart rate and blood pressure
2) washable electronic switches to operate things like MP3 players and mobile phones
3) wadding that responds automatically to temperatures I that it insulates when it’s cold and doesn’t insulate when it’s hot is another idea
4) the development of conductive fabrics is making it easier to interstate electronic components into clothing as it means that wires aren’t needed to conduct the electricity
What does flame retardence do to fabrics?
Using a fire retardant finish on fabrics like clotting makes the fabric slightly stiffer, but the fabric is still softer and cheaper to produce than a synthetic flameproof fabric like nomex. However specially produced fabrics like nomex do provide better protection
Can flame retardance wash out?
Yes so care is needed
What is water resistance?
Chemicals (eg silicone) can be applied to the surface of fabrics to stop water droplets passing through
What fabric is usually given a water resistance finish?
Nylon and is used for costs and tents
What are advantages about water resistance?
Fabrics with a water resistant finish can be washed and dry-cleaned without affecting the performance of the finish
What are disadvantages of water resistance?
These finishes don’t make the fabric water proof - if the surface becomes saturated the water will leak through
What is stain resistance?
Fabrics can be made stain resistant with a finish of a mixture of silicone and fluorine or a Teflon coating, these finish stop grease and dirt from penetrating the fabric
How has satin resistant been improved?
More recently, nanoparticles has been used
What are stain resistant mostly be used on?
Carpet and upholstery
What does commercial dyeing involve?
Huge amounts of fabric at a time. The fabric is dyed a uniform colour. It can be done continuously -this is where very long lengths of fabrics are dukes the same colour in a continuous process.
What is batch dyeing?
In batch dyeing,a batch of fabric is dyed with one colour, then another batch with a different colour, and so on
How is batch dyeing done?
1) the fabrics are initially produced and stored without dyeing
2) when a large amount of fabric of the same colour is required, it is dyed in a batch
3) the fabric is mounted on a series of rollers so that it is continually cycled through the dye
4) the dye material is put in a separate machine to fix the dye (to stop it running)
Why is batch dyeing useful?
Batch dyeing is useful because as fashionable colours change quickly, textiles manufacturers need to be able to respond quickly, and produce large batches of fabrics in different colours
What is an advantage of hand dyeing?
You can add designs to the fabric using resist. A resist is something which prevents the dye from reaching the fabric - it’s applied in a pattern before dyeing
How do you make tie dye?
1) fabric is tied with stings or rubber bands to crate a resist
2) the fabric is then immersed in dye
3) the dye doesn’t get to the tied areas
4) once the dye had dried and the fabric is untied, the pattern is revealed
What are the advantages of dyeing?
1) every piece is unique
2) the equipment is cheap
3) it’s an easy way to add pattern to fabrics
What are the disadvantages of tie dye?
1) the outcome is unpredictable
2) you can’t repeat a pattern exactly
3) you can’t create a detailed pattern
4) it’s time consuming for large areas
How is batik created?
1) The fabric is stretched across a frame. Then the hot wax is applied with a brush or a tjanting to create a pattern
2) once the wax is dry the dye is painted on or the fabric can be immersed in a bath
3) the wax is ironed to reveal the pattern
What fabrics do batik work best on?
Natural fabrics as they are absorbent
What are the disadvantages of batik?
1) it’s time consuming - each part of the design has to be painted separately
2) you need to be careful when working with hot wax, and it’s easily dropped in the wrong place
3) it can be tricky to iron the wax out
What are the advantages of batik?
1) it’s a more precise way of adding patterns to fabrics than tie dye
2) patterns can be more detailed
3) every product will be unique
What is silk painting?
Similar to bakit but you use silk, also the resist is a liquid called hurts and the dye is always painted on.
What’s a advantage and disadvantage of silk painting?
Because silk is so fine the colours are very vivid however silk is expensive and mistakes are costly
What is crease resistance?
Chemicals or resins are used to make the fabrics feel slightly stiffer. The finish is durable, but care is needed when washing and ironing
What is shrink resistance?
Scales on wool fibres cause wool to shrink in the wash. Hot water and rubbing cause the fibres to move against each other and the scale ms tangle and lick together. To stop this scales can be permanently removed with chlorine or a coating applied to smooth the surface of fibres
Which finishes are cheaper?
Finishes that are applied mechanically
What is fabric brushing?
1) brushing fabric gives it a soft raised surface
2) fabric can be brushed by passing them between rollers covered with wire brushed to raise the surface
3) the raised surface traps air and keeps the body warmer
4) brushing is a permanent finish
What is calendaring?
1) calendering makes fabrics smoother and shiner
2) heavy heated rollers are used to squash the fabric
3) the finish is not permanent and wears off with time, but fairly durable
What is pre-shrinkage?
1) natural fibres which are prone to shrinking (eg cotton and wool)
2) this reduces further shrinkage when the fabrics are washed
3) it’s done by steaming the fabric on a vibrating conveyor belt
What is one off production?
1) it’s made to meet an individual clients specification
2) the product is high quality, as it’s made by one person or a small team
3) this mean the product takes a long time and high labour material and costs
