RHS Level 2 R2112 Lawns Flashcards
Understanding choice establishment and maintenance of garden plants and lawns
State appropriate grass mixtures for the establishment of an ornamental high quality lawn.
Agrostis capillaris 5%
Festuca rubra subsp. commutata 25%
Festuca rubra rubra 20%
Dwarf lolium perenne 50%
State appropriate grass mixtures for the establishment of a hard wearing utility lawn.
Lolium perenne 70%
Festuca rubra rubra 30%
State the benefits of establishing lawns from seed (rather than turf)
Cheaper
Less work involved in sowing seeds than laying turf.
Specific mixtures of seed can be chosen to fit with difficult conditions.
Can be stored easily with little deterioration
Planning sowing is easier, can wait for right conditions.
State the limitations of establishing lawns from seed (rather than turf)
Takes longer to establish 9-12months before normal use.
The soil surface needs a more careful final preparation.
Weeds can compete with young grass
Sowing is much more dependent on good weather for establishing.
The seedbed is more vulnerable to animals causing disturbance.
Sowing is done at busiest time of year and has a narrower time slot.
Describe the procedure for establishing a lawn from seed.
Select a seed mixture appropriate to the location and proposed function of the lawn.
Choose the right time of year - September is preferred (warm soil, unlikely to dry out). April is the next best time. A quick germination of 7-10 days is needed for.
Choose the right day and conditions. Not frosty or raining. The soil should be dry enough so it’s not sticky but has moisture below the surface.
Clear the site - removing rubble, previous grass or unwanted plants and weeds using hand tools, scythe or strimmer.
Grading - smoothing or eliminating surface irregularities. Fill in small holes with topsoil.
Levelling - suitable number of pegs are made all marked 10cm from the top. The master peg is knocked in up to it’s mark to indicate desired level. All measurements will be taken from this. The other pegs are knocked into the ground on a grid system of about 2m squares and using a straight edge and spirit level they can be knocked in to be exactly level with the master peg. Soil is then added or removed from around the pegs until the soil surface is level with the marks on the pegs.
Digging - removes weeds, relieves compaction, aerates.
Fine tilth- produce a fine tilth on the surface using fork and rake
Firming - walk over site, shuffling walk with overlapping steps
Final grading/raking
Base dressing - e.g. growmore at 50g/sqm
Seed sowing - measure the right amount of seed appropriate to the area e.g 35-50g/sqm.
Scatter seed - mark out small, measured areas and walk over them scattering the appropriate amount of seed for that area in two directions (at right angles to each other).
Or use a spreader to release the seed at exactly the right rate.
Lightly rake over the area.
Water, using a fine spray, unless rain is forecast.
Protect site from birds by using black cotton netting.
When seed has reached 5cm it should be cut down to 2.5cm using a rotary mower.
Watering may be necessary throughout the following summer until well established.
State the benefits of establishing a lawn from turf.
The lawn can be used very soon after laying. 1 month.
Instant effect
Easier to achieve neat edges to paths and borders
Can be laid in late autumn and winter which are quieter times.
No problem with birds and animals after laying.
Better on slopes, erosion and washing down of seed can happen.
State the limitations of establishing a lawn from turf.
More expensive
Good quality is relatively difficult to obtain
Variations in thickness can give an uneven lawn
May contain weeds
Laying turf well requires some skill
Needs good planning, turf doesn’t store well
Dryness after laying can cause shrinkage and gaps.
Describe the procedure for establishing a lawn from turf.
Check turf has no pests and diseases. Is a good uniform colour. Includes desirable lawn grasses. No bare patches. Recently mown. Uniform thickness. Plenty of white roots present. Good soil. No breaks.
Store turf in a sack if using soon or spread out if longer than 3 days.
Choose the right day, can be laid most times of the year but avoid extreme temperatures/conditions.
Clear the site - removing rubble, previous grass or unwanted plants and weeds using hand tools, scythe or strimmer.
Grading - smoothing or eliminating surface irregularities. Fill in small holes with topsoil.
Levelling.
Digging - removes weeds, relieves compaction, aerates.
Firming - walk over site, shuffling walk with overlapping steps
Final grading/raking
Base dressing - e.g. growmore at 50g/sqm
Lay turf end to end in a straight line against an existing straight edge. Tamping down each turf with the head of a rake to bed them in.
Stand on planks on the first row to lay the next row.
They should be staggered like bricks.
At the end the row shouldn’t finish with a small piece, move the nearest long piece to the end and fit the small piece in behind it.
Shape or trim any edges.
Top dressing using a mixture of sand/loam is brushed into any cracks to help knitting together.
Water thoroughly and keep well watered in dry warm weather.
Describe differences between maintenance for a high quality ornamental lawn and a hard wearing utility lawn.
Mowing:
Ornamental lawns can be cut lower than utility lawns, down to 1cm in summer and slightly higher in spring and autumn therefore will need to be done more regularly. 3 cm for utility lawns.
Weed control:
Ornamental lawns need more attention than utility lawns.
Describe the yearly maintenance for lawns. Part one Jan-June.
January:
Turfing is possible during a fine spell.
February:
Continue turfing.
Scatter worm casts when they are dry with a besom broom. Worm casts can act as a top dressing
March:
Mow lawn 3cm for utility lawns, 2cm for ornamental lawn.
A cylinder mower may be sufficient to firm down any lifting due to frost.
Moss attention
April:
Mowing.
If lawn is in poor condition can add blood,fish and bone 70g/sqm
A good organic lawn could have a population of clover which would supply nitrogen. Can also leave mowings on the lawn to keep nutrients adequate.
Moss attention- lightly scarify
Overseed if necessary.
May:
Mowing
To control weeds first follow basic organic principles to encourage strong growth and suppress weeds.
Remove taprooted and rosette weeds by using special pronged tools.
In late may get rid of ants nests when they appear on the lawn.
June:
Mowing
If irrigation is needed in dry spells do it infrequently and thoroughly.
Describe the yearly maintenance for lawns. Part one July-Dec
July:
Mowing
If you’re not irrigating don’t spike/aerate
August:
Mowing
Identify any lawn diseases and treat them accordingly like red thread, fusarium patch, dry patch.
September:
Aeration is useful if a top dressing is going to be applied.
Feeding if needed should be low nitrogen.
Topdressings of bulky material to even out bumps and hollows and improve surface structure of lawn. Loam, sand, leaf mould applied at 1.5kg/sqm spread evenly. Grass leaves should not be buried.
Moss should not have built up if conditions are correct.
Scarification is necessary if a thick thatch has built up.
October:
The best disease control bis good turf management.
If there is a disease problem regularly aerate and scarify, make sure lawn is not hungry but don’t apply high nitrogen feeds especially late in the season
November:
Established lawns usually cope with a certain level of soil-bourne pests.
Soaking well with water and with damp Hessian or black plastic laid over damaged areas will bring up leatherjackets for removal by hand.
