Report 1 - Coastal Waves and Currents Flashcards
This term describes the motion of the water.
Current
Series of undulating energy forms that move through water.
Waves
Waves where its motion and surface profile recur in equal parts.
Periodic Wave
A phenomenon on which energy is transferred laterally along a wave crest.
Wave Diffraction
Forms when a narrow, fast-moving section of water travels in an offshore direction.
Rip Current
Long narrow islands or spits lying parallel to the mainland that provides protection by absorbing the brunt of the wave attacks .
Barrier Island
The process where water rises up from beneath the surface to replace the diverging surface water.
Upwelling
Waves that become too steep and unstable.
Breaking Waves
Wave where waveform merely moves up and down at a fixed position.
Clapotis or Complete standing wave
This process can cause significant beach erosion.
Longshore drift
Give at least 3 Wave theories
Elementary Progressive Wave Theory
Higher Order Wave Theories
Stoke’s Progressive, Second-Order Wave Theory
Cnoidal Theory
Solitary Wave Theory
Stream-Function Wave Theory
Importance of water waves effect in the field of coastal engineering.
Waves are the major factor in determining the geometry and composition of beaches and significantly influence the planning and design of harbors, waterways, shore protection measures, coastal structures, and other coastal works.
Draw the anatomy of a wave.
Wave Fundamentals and Classification of Waves
- Simple wave
- Complex wave
- Sinusoidal or Simple harmonic waves
- Periodic wave
- Progressive wave
- Clapotis or Complete standing wave
Wave that can be described in simple mathematical terms
Simple Waves
