rapid fire coastal systems/landscapes Flashcards

1
Q

distinguish between an open and closed system

A

closed system=transfer of energy in/out system boundary but not matter
(carbon cycle, sediment cells)

open system=both transferable
(coasts, ecosystems)

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2
Q

difference between negative and positive feedback

A

N=effects on action nullified by subsequent knock-on effects (counter-acted; gryones=more deposition=less transportation to neighbouring beach)

P=effects amplified/multiplied (loop/cycle; tourism in florida Orlando, D&P increasing+expansion)

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3
Q

4 major subsystems

A

Atmo(air)sphere
Lith(land)sphere
Bio(living things)sphere
Hydro(water)sphere

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4
Q

4 types of coast

A

OFFSHORE beyond influence of waves
NEARSHORE waves are breaking “breakerzone”
FORESHORE low and high water zone (under-tidel/surf zone)
BACKSHORE usually above the influence of waves

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5
Q

constructive VS destructive waves

A

C=strong swash and weaker backwash. Builds material up the landward side of the beach

D=weak swash and stronger backwash, this carties material away from the beach and can lead to gentle beach profiles/shapes

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6
Q

what is meant by breakerzone

A

zone within waves approaching commerce breaking, typically in water depths of 5-10 metres

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7
Q

4+ sources of energy in coastal system with features

A

WIND main input of energy forming waves/sandunes
-also factor of EROSION/TRANSPORTION materials can dispersed (by energy from wind by process of ABRASION

FETCH longer=higher wave energy=bigger waves

WAVES undulations of water surface caused by winds blowing across the ocean + energy transferred by friction

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8
Q

3 factors affecting wave height

A

fetch; wind speed; wind duration.

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9
Q

change in waves in shallow water

A

deep water=constant wavelength; waves move into breakerzone and touch seabed=wavelength shortens (frictional resistence); waves become unstable and once depth < 1.3 times waveheight, they break as surf
PROCESS EXPENDS MASS ENERGY USED TO MOVE SAND/SHINGLE

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10
Q

wave refraction

A

As waves approach a coast they are refracted so that their energy is concentrated around the headland but reduced around bays. Indicated by bending of wave crests leading to them becoming parallel to the shore=swash-alingned. Positive correlation between wave energy and water depth.

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11
Q

3 types of current

A
LONGSHORE CURRENT (clittoral drift) waves hit the coast at an angle. This creates a flow of water running parallel to the shore
RIP CURRENTS stongs moving away from the beach. They are formal when water is piled up along the coast by incoming waves.
UPWELLING the movement of cold water from the deep ocean towards the surface.
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12
Q

tides/waves/currents

A

TIDES controlled by moon (periodic); high/low tide=sea level
WAVES controlled by wind
CURRENTS seasonal/permanent

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13
Q

tidal surges (storms)

A
  • caused by meteorological conditions
  • sea level can rise by 1cm for every 1millibat drop in pressure
  • strong winds drive the water towards the shore=pling-up water against the coast
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14
Q

low energy VS high energy coast

A

LOW=low wave energy=deposition>erosion e.g=Baltic sea

HIGH=strong winds; erosion>deposition
e.g. Cornish coast

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15
Q

PVLI (most expensive place to build, scale high to low)

A

Peak
Land
Value
Intersection

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16
Q

sediment cell

A

length of coastline & associated nearshore area within which the movement of sand/shingle is largely self-contained. Interruptions to this movement within one cell doesn’t affect neighbouring beaches (closed system)
-11 accross the UK

17
Q

difference between marine and sub-aerial processes

A

MARINE those that operate on a coastline and are connected to the sea (waves/tides/longshore drift)

SUB-AERIAL these operate on the land but affect the shape of the coast (weathering/mass movement/run-off)

18
Q

tombolo/bar/spit

A

Tomobolo=mainland to an island
Bar=goes across two headlands
spit=carries on simple/compound

19
Q

marine processes examples

A
abrasion/corrasion
attrition
biological weathering and erosion
corrosion/solution
hydraulic
rock quarrying
water-layer weathering
20
Q

marine transportation

A

TRACTION big boulder dragged along river bay
SALTATION when they bounce
SUSPENSION they now float, thin particles
SOLUTION dissolved

21
Q

sub-aerial processes examples

A
freeze-thaw
salt crystallisation
chemical weathering
-hydration
-hydrolosis
-oxidation
-acid rain
biological weathering
hunan activity
mass movement/slumping
22
Q

cliffs and wave-cut platforms

A

clif, area of cliff recession, wave-cut platform

  • the wider the gap, the more momentum needed for the wave to erode the cliff usually requires high tide/energy waves (negative feedback)
  • tide undercutting the rock will lead to the overhang collapsing
  • types dependent on structure of strata (inland/horizontal/seaward)
23
Q

geos, caves, blowholes, arches, stacks, stumps

A

areas on a stretch of coast have small cracks suseptible to erosion, leading to the crack collapsing firming a geo. waves undercutting geo via corrosion/hydraulic action, flooding the cave which leads to an arch. Roof of arch=no support so weathering via biological weathering e.g. Roof of arch will collapse to form a stack, but via corrosion/hydraulic action leads to a stump

24
Q

headlands/bays

A

bay=soft rock (cove)
headland=hard rock (on disordinate coastline; prevailing winds concentrate on headlands which erode)

wave refraction occurs targeting headland as 1st point of contact; gets full force of wave energy, the erosion occurs either side of the headland where the soft rock is.

high energy coast=erosion>deposition= formation of a bay (deatructive waves)

E.G. SELWICK’S BAY, EAST YORKSHIRE BAY

25
Q

biggest coties 1950>2016

A

1950:

1) NY
2) London
3) Tokyo

2016:

1) Shanghai
2) Karachi
3) Beijing

26
Q

characteristics of coastal landscape

A
  • coastal geology/lithology
  • climate
  • nature of tides/waves

DEPENDENT ON:

  • high/low energy coast
  • dominant process either erosion/deposition
  • how intensely managed the coast is
  • sediment supply
27
Q

3 types of rock

A

IGNEOUS ganite/basalt (generally hard rock)
METAMORPHIC slate/marble
SEDIMENTRY clay/chalk/limestone/sandstone

28
Q

how landforms change over time

A
  • tectonic processes
  • sea level change
  • changing ocean currents
  • natural disasters e.g; storms/tsunamis
  • changes in sediment supply
  • human activity
29
Q

sand dunes (inputs)

A
  • plentiful sediment
  • onshore winds
  • large tidal range (low tides)
  • sheltered area behind beach where sediment can accumulate
  • obstacle to trap sand (vegetation, growth of these stabilise dunes)
30
Q

formation of sand dunes

A

wind blows over sand, only moves with enough velocity & usually dry sand grains. Grains collect around obstacles (dead birds).
Saltation=partices lifted in the air. Strikes other sand grains.

31
Q

aims of coastal management

options

ICZM (inter-coastal zone management)

A
  • defend against flooding
  • defend against coastal erosion
  • stabilise beaches
  • stabilise sand dunes
  • protect fragile esturaties

HARD ENGINEERING large, expensive, environmentally damaging projects using concerete, rock and wood

SOFT ENGINEERING (including managed retreat) - these tend to be smaller, cheaper options using more natural resources

32
Q

hard engineering examples

A
sea walls
groynes
cliff drainage
rock bund
rock armour (rip-rap)
gabions
revetments
offshore bars
33
Q

soft engineering examples

A
beach replenishment
building bars
beach reprofiling
fencing/hedging
replanting vegetation
beach recycling