quiz 1 Flashcards
define cosmetic science
cosmetic science is the study of the effects raw materials and mixtures have on parts of the human body like hair skin and nails
it is involved with developing, formulating and producing cosmetic and personal care products
what are the branches of cosmetic science
anatomy and physiology
chemistry \pharmacology
formulation technology
current rules and regulations
analytical sciences
microbiology
customer needs
marketing and business
define cosmetics
articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed on, introduced into or applied on the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance without affecting the structure of function.
define drugs (2)
articles intended for the diagnosis, cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseases or
articles other than food intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals
what is the legal differentiator between a cosmetic and a drug
the products intended use i.e what the product is used for
what is the common factor between otc-drugs and cosmetics (2)
purchased without a prescription
safe and effective for the use by the general public
define otc-drug-cosmetic products
give examples
they meet the definition of both otc drugs and cosmetics, they can be cosmetic and drugs at the same time
toothpaste that prevents tooth decay
deodrants antiperspirants
mouthwash to prevent or treat gingivitis
what are the other terms
personal care products
decorative care products
makeup
color cosmetics
advertisement terms
- cosmeceuticals
- nutraceuticals
- organic products
- cruelty free products
- hypoallergenic products
- preservative free products
- clinically proven claims
- patented formula claims
- dermatologist recommended claims
explain microbial growth in cosmetics
a cosmetic roduct which has a high water content is a good medium for microbial growth and the additional components in the product can serve as nutrient for the microorganisms.
a contaminated producted which shows no visible signs of contamination is more dangrous than preservatives.
what can otc drug cosmetics be classifed based on?
target group
dosage form
legal status
applications
fucnctions
target group (4)
babies
teenagers
women
men
dosage forms (6)
creams ointments lotions
solutions gels powders
others classification
skincare haircare oralcare
lip facial makeup
legal status (2)
cosmetic products
drug cosmetic products
applications (6)
body lips nails
face hair hands
functions (6)
cleansing
moisturing
facal creams
eye makeup
hand creams
aftershave
what are dosage forms based on
physical and pharmaceutical properties
define cosmetic “dosage form”
the final physical form of a mixture of chemicals that the consumers can take in their hands, purchase and use as cometic or drug cosmetic products
what is w/o/w emulsion
it is a type of double emulsion in which water droplets are dispersed into oil droplets
define a solution
the 3 types and their examples
describe its stability
a solution is a clear homogenous liquid consisting of one or more chemical ingredients dissolved in a solvent or a mixture of two mutually miscible solvents
it is thermodynamically stable
water based solutions - water is vehicle eg. eye makeup remover, shampoo, hand soap
hydroalcoholic - water and alcohol is the vehicle - eg. facial toner, hair spray, mouthwash
anhydrous - non water
organic vehicle solvent - base coat and nail polish remover
oily solvent - afterbath oirls, prewaxing oils
preparation of solutions
solids that need heating are dissolved in the solvent first
easily evaporating and colored pigments are added later to avoid loss of product and denaturation or change in their chemical composition
define an emulsion
describe the stability
2 common types
2 uncommon types
emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two immiscible phases
the dispersed or internal phase
an the external of continous phase
they are thermodynamically in
stable and separate over time
o/w - shampoo, facial moisturizing creams
w/o - diaper rash creams, sunscreens, barrier creams
w/si - cosmetic erspective, nice skin feel, fast drying effect, foundation, eye shadow, sunscreens
w/o/w - complex double emulsion
define an emulsion
describe the stability
2 common types
2 uncommon types
emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two immiscible phases
the dispersed or internal phase
an the external of continous phase with one or more emulsifying agents
they are thermodynamically in
stable and separate over time
o/w - shampoo, facial moisturizing creams
w/o - diaper rash creams, sunscreens, barrier creams
w/si - cosmetic erspective, nice skin feel, fast drying effect, foundation, eye shadow, sunscreens
w/o/w - complex double emulsion
why are emulsions preferred
what are the two sub categories
unique structure
good skin feel
deliver both hydrophillic and hydrophobic substances as they can incorporate both
lotiosn and creams
state the difference and eg of lotions and creams
lotions
high water content
good flowability
good skin feel
continuous free flowing non greasy
aftershave balm
cleansing milk
creams
high oil content
poor flowability
greasy
moisturizing creams
name the two emulsifiers
w/o emulsifer with high HLB value promoyes formation of oil in water emulsion
o/w emulsifer with low HLB value promotes formation of water in oil emulsion
define ointment
its composition
________ in nature and provides a _________
microbial contamination
examples
ointment is a semi solid containing <20% of water (might be anhydrous) and >50% hydrocarbons, polyols and waxes
occlusive in nature and provides a seal over the skin
lower microbial contamination due to less water content
eg. hair pomade and diaper rash ointments
define paste
why are they hard to remove with water
composition eg
paste is a semi solid dosage form with a large proportion 20-50% solids finely dispersed in a fatty vehicle
regular pastes are anhydrous based on a fatty vehicle and thats why highly adhesive to surfaces and hard to remove with water
eg. toothpastes are water based formulations that mix well with saliva
define suspension
composition and eg (3 types)
define stability and stokes law
suspension is a liquid doage form consisiting of solids undissolved dispersed in a liquid vehicle
water based
hydroalcoholic - liquid colored cosmetics containing pigments facial and body toners
anhydrous - lipstick, mascara, eyeliner
suspensions are thermodynamically instable and tend to separate over time i.e the particles due to gravitation tend to sediment
stokes law, by altering the viscosity and particle size of the dispersed phase we can achieve increased suspension stability
higher the viscosity lower the sedimentation rate
lighter the weight of the particles i.e smaller the particle size, slower the sedimentation rate
define powders acc to FDA
powders are a intimate mixture of dry finely divided chemicals
describe loose and compact powders with examples
what are the binders
loose powders are free flowing mixtures of different dry solid chemicals
eg. mineral facial powders
baby powders
bath salts
compressed powders are a blend of finely divided powders compacted via compression
eye shadows and facial powders
binders - zinc stearate
starch
and triglycerides
define capsule
solid dosage form
soft gelatin capsules
conatins oily liquid
tab broken to release products inside
eg. anti aging serum
define gel according to fda
2 egs.
water content
combination of toothpaste and gel
gel is a semi solid dosage form that contains a gelling agent to provide stiffness to a solution or colloidal dispersion
increase viscosity and have a complex internal structure
may contain fragrance beads or exfoliating beads
water based - facial ceansers
hydroalcoholic formulations- hair styling gels and hand sanitizers
higher amount of water and water evaporates leaving a cooling effect - sunscreens and aftershave gels
combination of toothpaste and gel - cleaning and polishing the teeth for stain removal
define stick
stick is a solid dosage form made of waxes and smaller amount of oils
acive ingredients delivered by a rubbing action eg. sunscreen and antiperspirants
eg. lipstick, blush, concealers
define aerosol
eg. of dosage forms that can be packaged as aerosols
eg. of aerosols
an aerosol is a product that is packaged under pressure and contains various ingredients that are released upon activating an appropriate valve system
lotions creams and suspensions
hair spray and shaving cream
what are two most important laws pertaining to
cosmetics marketed in the United States
the federal food drug and cosmetics act (FD&C act)
the fair packaging and labelling act (FPLA)
what are the laws of fda regarding registrations and restrictions of cosmetic products in the US
the cosmetic manufacturers are not required to register their cosmetic manufacturing establishments witht he fda and the cosmetic ingredients or raw materials do not require any premarket approval from the fda
the manufacturers can use any raw materials they want as ingredients
restrictions only apply for color additives and a small number of prohibited or restricted ingredients as well as active ingredients
who is responsible for the safety of cosmetic products
the cosmetic manufacturers are responsible for substantiating the safety of their products and ingredients before marketing
what are the rules for cosmetics imported to the us
all cosmetics imported to the US are subject to the same laws and regulations as those manufactured in the US
can the Us make an order for mandatory recall of a product
no, it is a voluntary action
when can the fda take a egal authoritative action against cosmetic manuafcturer
if they continue to market a defective product
why is the fda logo not allowed on cosmetics
since the products are not registered with the fda and logo is not allowed it may mislead consumers to think the product with a logo is better than the one which does not have it
labelling and packaging of a cosmetic product are regulated by?
the FD&C act
the fair packaging and labelling act
what is the EU regulation
what do they aim
EU regulation 1223/2009
aims at ensuring that the consumers health is protected and they are well informed by monitoring the composition and labelling of the products
what are the sections in the EU regulation
registration of the manufacturing facilities and products
premarket approval
manufacturing
use of ingredients
testing and product safety
packaging and labelling
what is the regulatory authority in the kingdom of bahrain
what does it determine
ministry of health bahrain
the registration procedure detrmines whether or not the product meets the safety and performance requirement outlined in applicable legislations and standards
According to the Bahraini Regulations, products must meet certain criteria, including:
- being free from pork or its derivatives
- being safe for human health under normal and reasonably foreseeable conditions of use
- being stable and having properties that impact safety, efficacy and quality that does not change during its shelf life
- being free from filthy and decomposed substances
what do gmps provide
main aim is to prevent harm from occuring to the end consumer
what are GMPs
GMPs are guidelines that provide minimum requirement that manufacturers must meet to ensure that their products are high in quality consistently from batch to batch
The FDA’s guideline can effectively help manufacturers self-inspect their operations and provides recommendations for the following areas:
Documentation and Records ▪ Buildings and facilities
▪ Equipment
▪ Personnel
▪ Raw materials
▪ Production
▪ Laboratory controls
▪ Internal audit
▪ Complaints, adverse events, and recalls.
location
machinery
processing
sanitary
maintenance
personnel
what does designing and formulation of a skincare product depend on
the structure of the human skin, its main functions and the indication of the product
what is the role of the skin
physical defense role, immune metabolic and uv protection function
what does the skin layer include
epidermis - stratum corneum and active epidermis
-dermis
- subcutaneous fat layer
what is the startum corneum
stratum corneum is a structured layer with stratum corneum cells embedded in a lipid layer which acts as a barrier of any penetrations
define epidermis
outermost barrier layer has a protective function against external influences
- stratum corneum 15-30 layers of dead cells
- stratum lucidum 3-5 layers of dead cells
- stratum granulosum - cells begin to die
- stratum spinosum - lipid and protein synthesis
- stratum basale - single layer of divided cells
define stratum corneum
whats it called
its layers
function of its layers
stratum cornuem is the outermost layer of the skin
natural barrier
brick and mortar stucture - unqiue
sebum, natural moisturizing factor, corneocyte, intercellular lipid matrix, comeodesomosome, cornified lipid envelope
covalently bound lipids provide a hydrophobic surface tot he corneocytes which is important for water barrier function
corneocytes contain a blend of hygroscopic compounds collectively referred to as the natural moisturizing factor
what is keratinization
its a dynamic process of epidermal renewal
begins in the basal layer where new skin cells called keratinocytes are formed and continually pushed upward
by the time they reach the SC they are dead cells
keratinization and shedding are continuous processes
define dermis and its layers
dermis is the layer under the epidermis and functions as a supporting frame for the epidermis providing nutrients and oxygen via the blood capillaries
- sebaceous gland- all over the body except palsm of hand and soles of feet. largest and most conc in the face and scalp which gives rise to acne and other skin diseases
- nerve endings - to transmit sensory signals such as touch, pain, pressure and temperature from the skin
- blood vessels - to provide nutrients and oxygen to the epidermis
sweat glands
define hypodermis
it is aloose connective tissue that stores fat in fat cells
what is the moisture content of the skin
including dermis and epidermis it is 80%
describe skin classification according to moisture content
normal water content - soft, smooth, glowing
low water content - dry, itchy, tight
describe the movement of water in the skin
there is a continuous movement of water in the skin from the deeper to the superficial layers where the water evaporates
skin can be classified generally by?
cosmetically relevant groups?
gender, color, uv sensitivity, vulnerability, oiliness, healthiness, special needs among others
sensitivity to ultraviolet light
based on hydration state and lipid content
gender
skin can be classified generally by?
cosmetically relevant groups?
gender, color, uv sensitivity, vulnerability, oiliness, healthiness, special needs among others
sensitivity to ultraviolet light
based on hydration state and lipid content
gender
skin types based on uv radiation exposure
name of the scientist
fitzpatrick
6 types
1. pale white - always burns never tans
2. white to light beige - easily burns tans minimally
3. beige - burns moderately - tans gradually to light brown
4 light brown - burns minimally - tans well to moderately brown
5. moderate brown - rarely burns tans profusely to dark brown
6. dark brown or black - never burns, tans profusely
skin types based on hydration state and lipid content
5 types
normal, dry, oil, combination, sensitive
not constant
affcted by
internal factors - hydration , lipid content, pH, moisture binding capacity
external factors - Uv light, wing, temperature, humidity content
skin types based on gender
androgen stimulation causes increase in thickness of skin thicker by 25%
slower aging because of thick skin and hih collagen content
men skin thins with advacing age whereas in women stays the same until menopause
higher hydration in SC in young men
men sweat more
men more sensitive to Uv radiation
