Product Ingridients Flashcards
Surfactant
Surface active agent, provides cleansing action, creates foam found in cleansers soaps and shampoos
Surfactant continued
Molecules have lipophilic (clings to oil and dirt) and hydrophilic part (helps to wash them away)
Surfactant often starts with
Sodium
Ex. Sodium laureth sulfate
Solvent
Can be used to dilute or carry other ingredients
Ex. Propylene glycol, butylene glycol and water
Thickener
also called gelling agents
Makes products look richer, thicker and heavier
Two types of alcohols
Drying alcohols
Fatty alcohol
Drying alcohol
Denatured alcohol or alcohol denant
Antibacterial or drying properties
Isopropyl alcohol
Fatty alcohols
Liquid with very high emollient qualities
Ex. Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol
PH adjuster
Adjusts alkalinity or acidity of product
Prevents irritation
Ex. Sodium citrate and citric acid
Preservative
Chemical ingredients that prevent growth and bacteria, yeast and fungi in products
Many have paraben in it ex. Methylparaben
Colourant
Added to make product more appealing
Doesn’t have major function in skin care
Which ingredients could irritate the skin
Colourants and perfumes
Humectants
Attract and hold moisture form the atmosphere and dermis
Preserve water levels in horny layer
Used to prevent creams from drying out
May have tacky feeling
Examples of humectants
- Glycerin
- Sorbitol
- Sodium PCA
- Propylene Glycol
- Hyaluronic Acid
Occlusives
Prevent evaporation of moisture from skin
3 types of occlusives
Mineral oil
Petroleum or petroleum jelly
Silicones
Mineral oil
Effective film barrier against moisture loss
Source is crude oil
Want cosmetic grade or pharmaceutical grade as opposed to technical
Petroleum or petroleum jelly
Want cosmetic grade
Source is petroleum
Vaseline brand
1-3% in skin care products
Silicones
Includes dimethicone and cyclomethicone
Derived from sand and rock
Silicone for dry skin
Dimethicone
Silicone for oily skin
Cyclomethicone
Free radicals
Harmful molecules unstable
Attack healthy cells, DNA and proteins causing damage and aging.
Examples of free radicals
UV rays, pollution, smoking and stress
Antioxidants
Neutralize free radicals
Anti inflammatory
Repair skin barrier
May increase collagen production
Examples of antioxidants
Vitamin C and E
Coenzyme Q10
Resveratrol
Green tree extract
Pomegranate
Ceramides
Lipids found in horny layer
Reduce evaporation of water
Improve skin hydration and softness
Peptides
Chain of amino acids
Send messages to our skin to behave a certain way
Anti aging benefits
Example of peptides
Palmitoyl pentapeptide aka matrixyl
Helps collagen production
Vitamins
Group of organic compounds
Essential for health and development
Vitamin A
Retinol
Improves skin texture and firmness
Cell renewal
Essential for normal skin development
Vitamin C
Ascorbic acid
Common antioxidants
Strengthens capillaries
Important role in synthesis of collagen
Skin lightening
Challenges with vitamin c
Ascorbic acid can be unstable
Light sensitive- needs dark bottle
Water can lead to oxidation
Protect from air
Vitamin E
Also called tocopherol
Promotes tissue growth and spreads healing process
Protects against sun damage
Vitamin B3
Niacinimide
Anti oxidants and anti inflammatory properties
Strengthens skin barrier
Reduces uneven skin tone
Reduces dull appearance
Softens fine lines
