Port Flashcards
1
Q
What is Port?
A
- a sweet, fortified wine from the Douro region of Portugal
- made from over 100 grape varieties
2
Q
How did Port come about?
A
- Trade wars between France & England in 17thC meant England increased trade with Portugal
- Popular dry powerful red wines were stabilised with brandy for voyage
- British merchants visited Abbot of Lamego, preferred his sweet wine (fortified during fermentation), and shipped it all to England
3
Q
When and how did most port houses start out?
A
- In the 17th C when France-England trade wars led to increased England-Portugal trade/ sales of port grew
- Kopke (1638) Warre (1729) Croft (1707) Taylor’s (1692) all became Port shippers
- Shippers traditionally agents taking commission for shipping port abroad or acquiring port from brokers and storing it in “lodges” (cellars/warehouses) in Vila Nova de Gaia (across River Douro to Porto)
- Most now dominant players with own vineyards, wineries and bottling facilities
4
Q
Port in the 18th Century
A
- 1703 Methuen Treaty gave Portugal lowest duty rates
- Port too popular - mass of poor quality, thin spirits, colour bolstered with elderflower juice - demand slumped - oversupply, prices dropped.
- So in 1756 Portugeuse PM Marquēs de Pombal official
- regulations and demarcation of Port vineyards
- created Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro (aka Real Companhia Velha)
- Real Companhia Velha
- sold all port for exports
- fixed prices
- exclusive supplier of fortification spirit
- not everyone happy, but quality and sales increases
5
Q
History of port in 19th Century
A
- Challenging
- Peninsular Wars
- Portuguese Civil War
- Mildew
- Phylloxera
- Many small growers sold land/ property
- Shippers took advantage of low prices - vineyards and quintas (estates)
6
Q
What key events happened in the 1930s in the Port industry?
A
-
1933 Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP)
- admin & supervision of Port industry
-
1932 Casa do Douro
- a secondary authority to supervise growers within the Port demarcation
- Vineyard parcels in Douro rated A to I based on suitability for making port - classification remains today in the Beneficio
- the IVP also controlled the purchase of the aguardente (the fortifying spirit)
7
Q
What was Casa do Douro and what happened to it?
A
- 1932 Casa do Douro a secondary authority to supervise growers within the Port demarcation, controlled the purchase of the aguardente until IVP in 1933
- 1990 controversially bought 40% of big shipper Royal Oporto - to allow growers to trade own products. Failed, Casa do Douro bankrupt
- 2003 new interprofessional body IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro created to supervise both Port & Douro producers (reflects growing importance of dry wines of Douro)
8
Q
What major initiatives to improve quality occurred in Port in the 1980s and 1990s
A
- the World Bank Scheme offered low-interest loans to Douro growers to plant/replant up to 10 hectares
- of A or B grade vineyard
- with 5 prescribed grapes Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cão
- major shippers (incl Cockburn’s, Ferreira, Ramos Pinto) & local university funded vineyard research; 2500 ha planted the 5 grapes on patamares (wider terraces)
- 1986 Portugal in EU, by 1991 producers sourced own aguardente and quality improved
9
Q
Latest developments in Port?
A
- new improved patamares design
- alongside the 5 major grapes, other local varieties being used for characteristics can bring to the blend
- Depopulation in vineyard areas has meant alternative solutions to foot-treading (“modern/robotic lagares”) now prevalent
10
Q
Where is Port made?
A
- Douro region, N-E of Portugal
- 250,000 ha of which 43,500 vineyards, 32,000 registered for DO Porto (production of port)
- Vineyard area follows River Douro. 3 sub-regions
- Baixo Corgo (west nr Atlantic, wet, basic grapes)
- Cima Corgo (middle, top vineyards/grapes)
- Duoro Superior (east, most inland, hot, flatter, some premium, some mechanisation)
11
Q
Climate of Douro
A
- Warm continental - 40C in summer, can freeze in winter
- Winding river/tributaries, hills, differing altitudes (0-1000m+) & aspects = microclimates - even within single vineyard - diurnal range, good acidity
- Vineyard area 70km from coast (and cities Porto and Vila Nova di Gaia) sheltered by Serra do Marão to west.
- Baixo Corgo westerly, nearest Atlantic, coolest, wettest 900mm- produces grapes inexpensive Ruby/Tawny
- Cima Corgo middle, warmer, drier 700mm, Age-Indicated Tawny & Vintage ports. Best known producers have vineyards here
- Douro Superior furthest from coast, hottest, driest 450mm, drought an issue, more sparsely planted, flatter land allows mechanisation, plantings increasing
12
Q
Soils of the Douro
A
- Stony, shallow, free-draining, poor in nutrients - limits vigour.
- Schist bedrock unusually fractured vertically allows roots to penetrate deep to find water. Irrigation only permitted in extreme drought.
- Schist vital - vineyards follow schist, because in wider area granite impenetrable.
13
Q
Name the three types of vineyard layouts in the Douro
A
- Socalcos traditional, narrow terraces, dry rock walls
- Patamares wider terraces, steep earth ramps, not walls
- Vinha ao Alto vines planted vertically up & down: good for mechanisation.
14
Q
Pros & cons of socalcos?
A
- Describe: Narrow terraces supported by walls of dry rock
- traditional vineyard layout in Douro
- PROS
- 2 rows per terrace: high densities 6000 vines/ha
- allows grape planting on steep slopes (+30% gradients)
- prevent soil erosion
- look nice
- CONS
- Labour intensive (work by hand, also maintain walls, small tractor possible if lower density planted)
- uneven ripening as inner row shaded by outer
- UNESCO protected (cannot change)
15
Q
Pros & cons of Patamares
A
- Describe: (modern) vineyard terraces in the Douro, wider than Socalcos, supported by steep earth ramp, not stone wall, to allow mechanisation (tractors). 2 kinds
- Original form: wider 2 row terraces, made by bulky bulldozers. Diagonol ramps. Pros cheaper to build & maintain, not UNESCO protected, mechanisation. Cons - uneven ripeness of one row shading other. Reduced vine density 3-3500 vines/ha. Wasted space - access ramps. Weeds on ramps. Soil erosion.
- New improved narrow 1 row terrace, precision (laser technology), often tilted toward slope & from one side terrace to other for water retention/drainage/ reduce erosion. 1 row - less uneven ripeness. Less wasted space.
16
Q
Pros & Cons of Vinha ao Alto
A
- Vertical planting up & down slopes
- Pros:
- least expensive to plant & maintain
- allows q high density 5000 vines/ha
- can be mechanised
- Cons
- mechanisation unuseable above 40% incline
- water run-off/ erosion
17
Q
Vine training in the Douro
A
-
Cordon trained/ spur-pruned OR head-trained and cane-pruned AND VSP trellised
- Promotes even sun exposure/ ripening
- allows mechanisation where viable
- Summer pruning (esp leaf removal) for late ripening varieties.
18
Q
Root-stocks used in the Douro
A
- V. rupestris & v. berlanieri 110R and 1103P because drought tolerant
19
Q
What are key considerations when replanting in the Douro
A
- Increasing vine density
- Vineyard layouts that allow mechanisation
- socalcos UNESCO protected, but lower density may allow tractor
- single row patamares ?
- Best grapes/rootstock for that precise area of land (even diff varieties on same terrace)
20
Q
Maximum yield for Port wine production?
A
- 55hl/ ha but drought and other hazards us mean 30hl/ha
21
Q
Risks, pests and hazards in the Douro
A
- late spring frosts esp at altitude
- early summer cool wet weather from West (at flowering and fruit set)
- Downy mildew, botrytis bunch rot - esp in wetter Baixo Corgo (solution canopy management/ fungicide spray)
- poor soils - can fertilise
- weeds on patamares slopes (compete for water/ nutrients - herbicides, poss mower)
- erosion, esp on vinha ao alta slopes - cover crops (help with nutrition/ weeds) Organic/ sustainable growing
22
Q
Harvesting in the Douro
A
- Us by hand as most topography unsuitable for machines
- Ageing regional population/ depopulation is an issue
- Symington Family Estates (largest single grower) developing machine to harvest if no pickers
- Climate means starts in Douro Superior, ends in Baixo Corgo.
- As diff microclimates, diff grapes, mainly hand-harvest, takes several weeks
23
Q
What grapes are permitted in the production of port?
A
- over 100, with field blends still used by many small producers. Good insurance!
- since 1980s focus on five (grants/ research/ clones)
- Touriga Franca
- Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo, Aragonez other Portugal)
- Tinta Barroca
- Touriga Nacional
- Tinta Amarela (Tricadeira other Portugal)
- Also major - Tinta Cão, Sousão
- white grapes
- Malvasia Fina (Boal in Madeira)
- Moscatel Galego Branco (aka Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains)
24
Q
Which is most grown, popular grape for Port
A
- Touriga Franca
- Pros
- late ripening (good for low, South face hot sites)
- thick skinned, resists fungal
- Colour, tannin, acidity, juicy red & black fruit, floral aromas
- Cons
- Vigorous - can need summer pruning
25
Q
What is tempranillo called in Port and what does it contribute?
A
- Tinta Roriz (also Aragonez elsewhere in Portugal)
- Early ripening, prone to water stress (likes cool sites, elevation)
- Body, deep colour
- Need to limit high yield as can get dilute
26
Q
Tinta Nacional’s role in Port?
A
- Pros
- (Best Grape) Mid-ripening, thick-skinned, deep colour, high tannins, med high acid, concentrated black fruit, violets, floral aromas.
- Long-ageing, important in premium
- Cons
- Over-vigour can require summer pruning
- coulure (lowers yields)
27
Q
Describe Tinta Barroca
A
- Key grape in port
- Early ripening, best on coolest sites (high, N facing Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo) to retain acidity and avoid heat damage/ shrivelling
- Earthy flavours, colour fades quicker, can lack acidity, but high yielding
28
Q
What is Trincadeira called in Port and what does it contribute?
A
- Tinta Amarela
- Tight bunches, so prone to fungal diseases
- Full-bodied, concentrated black fruits, spicy notes, approachable young but can age
29
Q
Tinta Cão
A
- important key grape - not top 5, but in 1980s scheme
- low yielding, thick skinned, resistant to fungus
- ripens late, heat tolerant
- concentrated wine, spicey, high acidity, age well
30
Q
Sousão
A
- Increasingly popular thick skinned grape for Port
- deep colour
- retains acidity
- structure
31
Q
What are the key white grapes for Port production?
A
-
Malvasia Fina (Boal in Madeira)
- neutral, med acidity, full-body, slight honey
-
Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains)
- aromatic, often used in unaged styles
32
Q
The advantage of a wide range of varieties in Port?
A
- Differing characteristics
- Reduce vintage variation (eg cool wet years disrupt some varities more than others)
- Spread out the harvest (us hand / labour intensive) so can pick all at optimum ripeness
- Old wines (vinha velha) key part in premium/ super-premium Ports
33
Q
What is Port’s challenge with extraction?
A
- It needs to be very effective
- Port is made by stopping fermentation by adding grape spirit to create sweet wine (usually 80-120g/L residual sugar).
- Therefore maceration with the skins to extract all tannins and colours can only last a maximum of two days - requires very effective extraction methods.
34
Q
What are the options for extraction in port?
A
- Foot treading in lagares
- Modern lagares
- Pumping over
- Stainless-steel pistons
- Autovinifiers
35
Q
What are lagares and how have they been modernised?
A
- Traditional lagares are shallow (0.8m) square granite tanks for treading grapes - large surface area between must and grape skins. Still used some premium ports.
- Foot-treading effective extractor, gentle enough not to crush seeds (bitter tannins). People add heat to ferment.
- Modern lagares (aka robotic lagares) silicon “feet” on stainless steel gantry, press grapes onto lagar floor and later punch down cap. Quality equal to foot treading.
- Initial investment higher, but no need for large hired unreliable workforce.
36
Q
Apart from lagares name three other extraction techniques used in Port production
A
- Pumping over - can produce ports deep colour/tannin, but not as effective as lagares. Used for non-fortified too
- Stainless-steel pistons - open stainless-steel vats, pistons punch down cap to programme. Used together with pumping over for a more even extraction. Then seem as good as lagares.
-
Autovinifiers - sealed concrete/ s-steel tanks manage cap w/o electricity. Rising CO2 pushes juice up pipes to holding tank until pressure valve triggered & releases wine sprayed over cap.
- No electricity, so cheap, but reliant on CO2, so very little extraction before fermentation, and results in lighter colour, body and flavour - basic Tawny, White & Ruby Ports.
37
Q
Advantages of stainless steel fermentation vessels in Port (though some use granite, concrete or old wood for small volume wines)
A
- easy cleaning
- easy temperature control (if necessary cooling to slow fermentation & period of extraction)
38
Q
Port fermentation temperatures
A
- RED 28-32C
- warm enough to allow sufficient extraction, but not so warm as to accelerate fermentation and reduce the time needed for extraction
- WHITE 20C
39
Q
Are Port grapes de-stemmed before fermentation?
A
- Not necessarily. If ripe, stems can aid pressing (reduce compaction of pomace and improve drainage)
40
Q
Yeasts used in Port?
A
- Often ambient, as sufficient to start ferment in warm temperature (28-32C) and no need to completely ferment.
41
Q
What is different about the fortification of port compared to other fortified wines?
A
- Legislation: spirit (aguardente) to fortify must come from grapes/ grape-derived products & be 77% abv (+/- 0.5%)
- Low compared to 95-96% of other fortifieds
- 95% is neutral, 77% has more character, why Port has spirity aromas.
- Because of lower alcohol, need 1 L of spirit for every 4 L of fermenting must to produce wine of 20% abv, so style & quality of the aguardente has significant influence
42
Q
Where do Port producers source their aguardente?
A
- Since 1991 (EU law) wherever they want
- From 1967-76 had to buy from Casa do Douro
- 1976 IVP tendered contract and all producers had to use same cheap spirit from Portugal, then France
- Now producers better understanding
- some neutral to show wine’s character
- some aromatic (fruity esters) to add character
- high quality added to premium wines: affects price
43
Q
When and how is fermentation stopped in Port?
A
- When wine reaches sugar concentration producer wants (80-120 g/L), alcohol 5-7%. Will depend on house style.
- Wine is drained from skins and aguardente added, the spirit kills the yeast cells and fermentation stops
44
Q
Why is quick drainage after fermentation important in Port production?
A
- Because the wine is drained from the skins before the aguardente is added, so fermentation will continue, using up sugar that may be desired in the final wine.
- Modern vessels (incl modern lagares) are designed to drain v quickly, compared to the traditional lagares - can take hours.
45
Q
What happens to the grape skins left after draining?
A
- They will be pressed & press wine blended into fortified free run wine to provide greater colour and tannin - important for wines to undergo long ageing
46
Q
Acidification in port?
A
-
Common
- Port grapes are picked when flavours/tannins ripe (pot alcohol not an issue), so acidity can be low and PH high
47
Q
Malolactic conversion in Port?
A
- No. Lactic acid bacteria cannot tolerate high concentration of alcohol in the wine after fortification.
48
Q
What happens to Port after fermentation and fortification?
A
- All Ports spend first winter in Douro
- Wines are left to clarify before being racked off the gross lees. Then rotary vacuum filter to extract remaining wine from lees.
- In Spring wines may be shipped to lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia for maturation (cooler, more constant temperature - Atlantic influence); but tourism & congestion means increase in producers building insulated, humidity controlled lodges in vineyard area.
49
Q
Blending in Port - when and why?
A
- At any time
- V important (more varied stock held the better)
- diff vineyard parcels
- diff varieties (though often co-fermentation)
- diff ages/vintages (complexity)
- diff styles (vintage v ruby) but also for diff markets
- consistency (NV and general House style)
- price
- volume
- Also make wines differently as blending options eg
- Range of young wines sweet to dry to use to adjust sweetness in final blend
50
Q
What is Port matured in?
A
- Oak, even if short time
- Sizes vary according to oxidation required
- Balseiros (100,000l vats) store wines fresh
- Pipes (600l barrels) gentle oxidation
- Only old oak: don’t want new oak aromas
51
Q
Why is racking carried out during Port maturation?
A
- To remove accummulating lees which could create off flavours
- To control the amount of oxidation (more frequent, more O2, though topping up also affects that)
52
Q
List all the styles of Port
A
- Basic Ruby
- Basic Tawny
- Reserve Ruby/Tawny
- Tawny with an indication of age
- also very old, no age indicated super-premium
- Colheita
- Vintage
- Single Quinta
- Crusted
- Late Bottle Vintage
- Rosé Port
- White Port
53
Q
What influences the style of Port?
A
- Mainly quality of base wine and form of maturation
- Minimum ageing wines legally defined and analysed by IVDP before permitted to label
- Producers start to make decisions on grapes/styles during growing season - weather crucial - but producers can impact
- re canopy management and harvest dates
- in winery eg gentle extraction on least ripe grapes to avoid underripe flavours/tannins, so suited to less concentrated styles like basic Tawny
54
Q
What is the difference between Basic Ruby and Reserve Ruby?
A
- Basic is med-body, med tannins, mix of red & black fruits
- From wines not suitable long ageing (eg fruit not tannin)
- Protective wine-making to retain primary fruits - stainless steel/concrete ferment, aged in bulk (steel/concrete or large old wood) for max 3 yrs
- Blend of years, consistent style
- Use cheap spirit (to hit low price point) so often slightly harsh alcohol
- Reserve Ruby no min age requirement (unlike Reserve Tawny which is 7 yrs in wood)
- tasted/ approved by IVDP’s tasting panel
- more concentrated, higher quality and price than basic
55
Q
What is the difference between Basic Tawny and Reserve Tawny?
A
- Basic Tawny shows some lightness of colour/browning but not from long oxidative ageing, instead light extraction (like rosé port) to look older.
- Fermenting must is drained early concentrating remaining wine which can be used to add more colour/flavour to Ruby Port.
- Reserve Tawny higher quality/ more concentrated
- Must be aged min 7 years in wood (unlike Reserve Ruby which has no min age)
56
Q
Describe Tawny with an Indication of Age?
A
- Long ageing in wooden barrels (pipes 620-640l)
- Controlled exposure to O2, over time tannins soften, alcohol integrates, primary become tertiary (dried fruits), oxidation (caramel, nuts). Old barrels so no oak flavours.
- Long ageing means clarification and stabilisation occurs naturally in barrel, so don’t need filtration pre bottling.
- 10, 20, 30, 40 on label is “the characteristics of a wine that age” (IVDP panel) - NOT min or average age. Usually blend of diff vintages, can be older and younger
- Must state year of bottling - important as these wines lose their freshness after bottling.
- Relatively expensive (long ageing, need racking, topping up as evap), sales increasing, stocks decreasing, prices rising.
- Quality can be extremely complex and concentrated - outstanding
57
Q
Give two examples of a very old non-age indicated Tawny
A
- Taylor’s Scion 150yrs + £2.5k bt
- Grahams Ne Oublie (1882) £4.5k bt
58
Q
Define Colheita Port
A
- Tawny Port from single vintage
- Aged in small barrels min 7 yrs before bottling
- Label must state vintage of wine and year it was bottled
- Producer can bottle according to demand eg once reached 7 years, could bottle part in one year, then more in following years
- Wine in barrel can be topped up with wines/spirit to avoid ullage.
- Usually cheaper than vintage ports, but some v old colheitas super-premium
59
Q
What is key difference between Vintage Port and Tawny Port?
A
- Tawny Port is aged in barrels and when Tawny is bottled, it is ready to drink and will not improve in bottle.
- Vintage Port is aged in bottle and will improve in bottle (depending on age)
60
Q
What is a “declared vintage” in Port?
A
- Vintage Port - when grapes/ young wine exceptional
- Producers register intention declare Vintage in 2nd year after harvest, IVDP panel approve the young wine
- Some years everyone declares (2011, 2016), some years mixed (2015).
- Market conditions matter: if 2 years in a row, second vintage may take sales from first (2017 and 2016 declared)
61
Q
Describe the grapes in Vintage Port
A
- Very high quality plots, often shipper’s own vineyards.
- Some super-premiums from v select plots, old vines eg Quinta do Noval’s Nacional (old, ungrafted vines)
- Touriga Franca & Touriga Nacional key components - colour/tannin/flavour concentration for long term ageing
62
Q
How do producers determine whether to declare a vintage?
A
- quality & ripeness of fruit from best vineyards
- quality of lots (batches) of young wines stored in large old wooden vats to avoid too much oxidation
- tasted over next 2 years
- Those lots not suitable for Vintage may become Single Quinta, LBV, Crusted or poss even Tawny
63
Q
Ageing of Vintage Ports
A
- Maximum of 3 years in large old wooden vessels, but majority bottled in 2nd Spring after harvest (18-20mths in wood)
64
Q
What is the benefit of 18-20 months of wood ageing for young Vintage Ports
A
Allows small amount of O2 = anthocyanin-tannin bonding which stabilises colour for long ageing in bottle
65
Q
Are Vintage Ports fined and filtered before bottling?
A
No, so heavy sediment forms
66
Q
Describe flavour profile of young vintage Ports
A
- Deep in colour, full-bodied, high tannins, pronounced intensity of ripe black fruit, sometimes floral notes. Can be quite spirity as alcohol takes time to integrate.
- Very good to outstanding in quality
67
Q
Why are Vintage Ports so profitable for Producers?
A
- Outstanding quality so (super) premium priced
- Limited time in wooden vessels (us 18-20 mths) early release from winery.
68
Q
Describe Single Quinta Port
A
- Grapes from one estate (Quinta) and one vintage
- Made when grapes not good enough for Vintage declaration
- eg Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas, Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos
69
Q
What is Crusted Port?
A
- Non-vintage Port aged in wood for up to 2 years before bottling without fining or filtration: hence a deposit or “crust” forms in the bottle.
- Label must state bottling date
- After 3 years can include “bottle matured” on label (can release earlier w/o it)
- Style can be similar to Vintage Port, can age a long time and usually good to very good, med-premium priced
70
Q
LBV (Late Bottled Port)
A
- Single vintage wines, aged for 4-6 years in large old wood/ stainless steel to avoid oxidisation before bottling
- This extra ageing makes the wines more approachable on release than Vintage Ports.
- filtered (normal) or “unfiltered”
- filtered bottled ready to drink (undecanted) because
- fruit less quality than Vintage
- longer ageing before bottling
- More body/tannin/intensity than Ruby, good-v good, mid price
71
Q
How do “unfiltered” LBVs differ from normal LBVs?
A
- “unfiltered” on label
- Because they are unfiltered, they will improve in the bottle.
- Tend to be more full-bodied, spend 4-5 years in wood then a few years in bottle (LBVs 4-6 in wood or stainless steel before bottle and release)
- if min 3 years in bottle “bottle matured” like Crusted
- very good quality, can taste like young Vintage
- us mid-priced
72
Q
Rosé Port (aka Pink Port)
A
- Invented by Croft in late 2000s
- Black grapes from coolest sites - altitude or Baixo Corgo
- Must macerates few hours, before draining free run juice and clarifying (can also use lightest press juice)
- Fermentation 15-16C to keep red berry fruit
- Aguardente neutral & high quality (to not stand out) as less intense flavours/tannins
- Bottle soon after fortification/ released within year
- Inexpensive-mid priced, colour varies pale salmon to almost ruby. Flavour varies with producer.
73
Q
What are the two basic styles of White Port?
A
- Fruity, unoxidised, Moscatel dominated, aromatic, fruity & floral. Crushed grapes, add SO2, 2 hours maceration, chilled (limit O2), must is drained, pressed, juice fermented off skins at under 18C (normal white) to retain fruit. Stainless steel/ v large old oak short period. Lemon colour, med body, stone fruits/ floral notes
- Highly oxidised, Malvasia dominated (subtle in youth, honeyed, nutty with age). Longer on skins, more phenolics to support ageing. Several yrs in small casks (like premium Tawny). Amber/brown, flavours of caramel, citurs peel, dried stone fruit, nuts
- There is a half-way: slight oxidation, less oak aged - fresh fruit, but slight nuttiness.
74
Q
White Port labelling options
A
- Like Tawny Ports
- Reserve if aged in wood min 7 years
- Indication of Age 10, 20, 30, 40 if characteristics deemed by IVDP tasting panel
- Colheita if single vintage and min 7 years
75
Q
Businesses involved in Port Production
A
- 21000 growers (43% less 0.5ha, 92% less 5 ha)
- Most sell grapes to med/large producer or co-op
- Cooperatives make 20% wine, mostly sold to producers
- Brokers often employed to trade grapes & wine
- 30-35 producers make significant volumes
-
Top 5 make 80% vol
- Porto Cruz
- Symington Family Estates
- Sogrape
- Fladgate Partnership
- Sogevinus
76
Q
Name the top 5 Port Shippers (producers) and their key brands
A
- Porto Cruz largest, with largest brand Gran Cru
- Symington Family Estates Cockburn’s, Dow’s, Graham’s Warre’s
- Sogrape (Portugal’s biggest wine co) Sandeman, Offley & Ferreira (and many non-port)
- Fladgate Partnership Taylor’s, Fonseca, Croft, Kroh
- Sogevinus Burmester, Barros, Calem, Kopke
77
Q
What is the IVDP and what does it do?
A
- 2003 Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro (succeeding IVP 1933) new interprofessional body created to govern & represent Port & Douro producers (reflects growing importance of dry wines of Douro)
- registers vineyards/ cos involved in wine prod/ shipping
- regulates amount of Port made in a year - the Beneficio
- controls volume Port released each year (1/3 shipper’s total stocks)
- analyses/tastes Port to meet legally defined Port styles
- helps promote Port and unfortified wines from Douro
78
Q
What is the beneficio?
A
Both
- the amount of port must that can be produced in any one year and
- the system that regulates it
79
Q
What is the aim of the beneficio system?
A
to keep grape and wine prices stable through a balance of supply and demand
80
Q
How are vineyards rated for the benefico system?
A
- Each vineyard parcel is classified according to its capacity to produce quality grapes for Port; eg location, altitude, soil, grape varieties etc
- Each factor is given numerical value, total gives a letter A to I denoting how much Port can be made from parcel
- A is highest quality; can make most wine. Vineyards below F cannot make Port, but unfortified wine or spirits
81
Q
Who decides what the beneficio (amount of Port wine must that can be made) is each year?
A
- The three main bodies:
- IDVP
- growers
- producers
- They take into account market demand and current stocks, aiming to keep grape and wine prices stable
82
Q
How does beneficio card trading work (or not?!)
A
- Landowners get card (certificate) for each parcel of land, and can trade that card for the grapes grown on it
- in reality may be from different parcel of land
- The beneficio sets prices for Port grapes - relatively high 1.2-1.4€ inside system, 0.25-0.4 outside
- So growers give lesser quality grapes as beneficio cards (guaranteed a high price), and sell their best quality grapes on open market (no price controls, will get higher price)
- Producers may then substitute the inferior beneficio grapes for their own high quality grapes that are not part of beneficio system to make a better quality Port!
- the inferior grapes may be used/ resold for unfortified wines
83
Q
How do most Port grape growers make their money?
A
- Most growers don’t make their own port. They make their money purely through beneficio trading
- this means there is lots of trading
- all transactions/payments must be recorded by and made through the IVDP, which monitors and controls the process.
84
Q
Why do many producers feel the beneficio system does not help them?
A
- As demand for Port declines, the volume of Port has been reduced to avoid oversupply
- Yet at the same time total vineyard area has been allowed to grow, leading to oversupply of grapes for unfortified Douro wines
- As prices for these grape are not fixed by the beneficio, grape prices plummeted
- Port producers feel they are subsidising the industry for unfortified Douro wines by paying artificially high prices for Port grapes.
85
Q
Port sales
A
- Production in 2017 82m litres, sales 75m litres
- Steady decline after 3 decades of growth 1970-2000
- 85% Port by vol exported
- France is largest market, then domestic Portuguese. But cheap Port less drunk as an aperitif in these markets and Holland.
- Yet increase in av price - premium ports like age-indicated Tawny up - better quality/ marketing
- Special categories (everything above standard Ruby, Tawny, White & Rosé) 23% sales vol, 45% value
86
Q
How are Port producers trying to revive fortunes?
A
- Symington, Qunita do Noval, Ramos Pinto, Niepoort all diversified into still unfortified wines
- It is hoped growing popularity of Douro still wines may attract new markets to Port wines
- Expansion of Rosé and White Ports, both as aperitifs & cocktail mixers - white Port v gin with tonic lower alcohol
- Further potential in Premium re Ports in hospitality eg Graham’s 4.5L Tawny Ports presented to customers as digestifs create great social media photos.
