Port Flashcards
Chapter 3 Port
1
Q
What explains to origins of Port?
A
Trade wars between England and France in the 17th century
Caused the English to increase trade with Portugal
Brandy was added to stabilize the DRY wines and make sure they made it to England in good condition
2
Q
How did the practice of fortifying wine DURING fermentation start in Port?
A
2 British merchants visited the Abbot of Lamego and found the SWEET wines there were of a higher quality than the DRY wines seen anywhere else
They shipped the entire stocks to England
3
Q
Name some of the earliest Port shippers
A
- Kopke, Warre, Croft, Quarles Harris and Taylor’s
4
Q
What was the traditional role of Shippers in Port? How has that evolved?
A
Shippers were agents that took a commission for shipping Port abroad or acquired Port from brokers in the Douro and then stored them in ‘lodges’ in Vila Nova de Gaia prior to onward shipment overseas
Most have now become producers and have become dominant players in the production of Port with their own vineyards, wineries and bottling facilities
5
Q
What is meant by a Port “lodge”?
A
These are wine cellars/ warehouses, traditionally maintained by “shippers”
6
Q
What treaty ensured that Portuguese wines received lower rates of duty in England than those of any other country?
A
- the Methuen Treaty in 1703
7
Q
How was the success of Port in the 1700’s problematic?
A
Port’s popularity lead to production of large amounts of poor-quality port-style wines (using poor quality spirit, thin wines, and bolstering color with elderberry juice)
Poor quality led to slumping demand, over-supply and falling grape & wine prices
8
Q
What was done to address slumping demand for Port in the 1700s? When?
A
In 1756, the Marquês de Pombal (Prime Minister of POR) drew up production regulations to officially demarcate Port wines
Pombal also created the Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro - aka Real Companhia Velha - from which all Ports for export had to be bought
The Companhia also fixed prices and also had the right to supply the spirit used in fortification
9
Q
What is the Methuen Treaty? When was it signed?
A
A treaty between England and Portugal that ensured Portuguese wines received lower rates of duty than any other country
1703
10
Q
What key events happened in Portugal in the 19th century, affecting Port?
A
Early 19th century = Peninsular Wars and Portuguese Civil war
Later in the century, vineyards hit by both mildew and then phylloxera
Many small producers needed to sell their land and properties in order to survive
Shippers took advantage and started to own vineyards and Quintas (estates)
11
Q
What body is responsible for the administration and supervision of the Port industry? When was it started?
A
Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP)
Instituted 1933
12
Q
What body is responsible for supervising the GROWERS within the Port demarcation? When was it created?
A
Casa do Douro
1932
13
Q
When were the vineyard parcels in the Douro first rated based on suitability for producing Port?
A
Just after the creation of the IVP (Instituto do Vinho do Porto) and Casa do Douro
Approx 1932/33
14
Q
What is the name of the Port classification system? What is the scale on which it rates vineyard parcels of the Douro?
A
The Beneficio
Rating scale A to I based on suitability for producing Port
15
Q
When did Portugal enter the EU?
A
- In 1986
16
Q
What key change happened in 1991 that affected how Port producers made their wines?
A
As a result of entering the EU in 1986, by 1991 producers were permitted to source their own aguardente (fortification spirit) on the open market (rather than being controlled by the Casa do Douro)
This lead to a rise in the quality in the spirit used and an increase in quality of Port wines overall
17
Q
What is the name of the spirit used to fortify Port wine?
A
- Aguardente
18
Q
What controversial move happened in the Port industry in 1990? What was the result?
A
The Casa do Douro bought 40% of Royal Oporto (one of the largest shippers at the time)
It was supposed to allow growers to trade their own products, but the venture went bankrupt
This led to a new inter-professional body - the Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro (IVDP) - to supervise both Port and Douro wine producers
19
Q
What is the IVDP?
When did it come about?
How was it different than IVP?
A
IVDP = Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro
Created in 2003 after the bankruptcy of Casa do Douro
Created to supervise BOTH Port and Douro wine producers
20
Q
What are Patamares
A
One of three vineyard layouts used in the Douro. These are wider planted terraces supported by a steep ramp of earth rather than a stone wall (as with socalcos). They run diagonally up and down the slope.
21
Q
Is foot treading common in Port production? Why/ why not?
A
Traditionally it was common because it is the gentlest way to achieve quick extraction
However, de-population in vineyard areas has made it difficult to find the labor necessary for foot-treading so alternative solutions continue to be perfected and are now used for wines of all quality levels
22
Q
Where is the Douro region?
A
- NE Portugal
23
Q
What is the general climate of the Douro region (including temp(s))
What mitigating factor?
A
Warm continental,
with temps reaching 40C (104F) in the summer and freezing temps not unusual in winter
Distance from the Atlantic and protection from the Serra do Marão to the W of the region means vineyards are warmer and drier than Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia (70km away
24
Q
What are the 3 main sub-regions of the Port vineyard area?
A
From West to East
Baixo Corgo
Cima Corgo
Douro Superior
25
Which of Port’s subregions is the coolest and wettest? How much rain?
Baixo Corgo
900mm rainfall/year
26
Which wines tend to be produced from fruit in the Baixo Cargo? Why?
Inexpensive Ruby and Tawny Ports (also Rosé)
The cooler wetter climate
High extraction is less important for these wines from both a color and tannin perspective
27
What is the Cima Corgo climate?
How much rainfall?
What is it known for?
It is warmer and drier than the Baixo Corgo (700mm rainfall vs 900mm)
Not as dry as the Douro Superior (700mm vs 450)
Most of the well-known producers have vineyards in this region used to produce Age-indicated Tawny Port and Vintage Ports
28
Describe the Douro Superior (rainfall, climate, plantings)
It is the warmest and driest of the 3 sub-regions of Port
450mm of rainfall vs 900mm Baixo Corgo, 700mm Cima Corgo
Drought is a frequent issue
Sparsely planted
Relatively flat which allows mechanization so plantings are increasing
29
Describe the soils of the Douro
Stony, shallow, free-draining soils
Poor nutrients, limiting vigor
Underlying bedrock is schist (crumbles into layers relatively easily)
Schist in this area is split into vertical layers (rather than the more common horizontal) which allows roots to penetrate deep into bedrock to find water
30
Is irrigation permitted in the Douro for Port?
Only in exceptional circumstances, such as periods of drought under which the vine could be in extreme hydric stress
31
What are the 3 main vineyard layouts of the Douro Valley?
Socalcos
Patamares
Vinha ao Alto
32
What are Socalcos?
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock
Not typically suitable for mechanization so not typically considered for planting new vineyards
Those of the Douro are protected by UNESCO so cannot be converted to other layouts (although can be left to decay?)
33
What is the typical planting density for Socalcos? When is this varied?
Allow for planting densities of 6000 vines/hectare
Can be planted at lower densities to allow for a small tractor to enter the terraces to reduce need for labor
34
What are Patamares?
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Terraces supported by a steep earth ramp rather than a stone wall (as would be for Socalcos)
They allow for small tractors to run up and down the slopes by the use of tracks than run diagonally up the slope
Cheaper to implement and maintain than Socalcos
However erosion and weeds on the ramps can be problematic
35
What are the typical planting densities for Patamares?
3000-3500 vines/ hectare, as the ramps take up a lot of space
36
What are the two types of Patamares?
How do they compare?
Original style (from when bulldozers were large). Large, wide patameres that support 2 rows of vines on each terrace.
Makes efficient use of land, but uneven ripeness can be an issue
Narrow patamares that only support 1 row of vines
More modern version carved by newer, smaller bulldozers
Often use laser tech to ensure precise construction
Often tilted slightly toward the slope and also from 1 side to the other to improve water absorption and drainage + reduce erosion
Fewer problems of uneven ripening
37
What are Vinha ao Alto?
Density?
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Vines are planted in vertical rows up the slopes
Least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high-density planting (~5000 vines/ ha)
38
Why would a vintner like to use Vinha ao Alto? What are the limitations?
Least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high density planting (~5k vines/ha)
Efficient use of the land
However, above 40% incline, mechanization cannot be used, therefore in these situations patamares are more likely
Water runoff and erosion can be significant problems
39
How are vines typically trained / pruned in the Douro?
Cordon-trained and spur-pruned or
Head-trained and cane-pruned
VSP trellised to promote even sun exposure and ripening, and allow for mechanization where viable
40
What rootstocks are used in Douro?
Drought-tolerant rootstocks such as 110R and 1103P
Both of which are hybrids of V. rupestris and V. berlandieri
41
What are key considerations when replanting Port vineyards?
Socalcos are UNESCO protected so cannot be converted to other layouts; can be planted at lower densities to allow small tractors to enter and reduce need for labor
In other cases, the goal is often on increasing vine density
Vineyard layouts that allow mechanization
Selecting the best planting material (grape variety, rootstock, etc) for the area of land (which may include planting different grape varieties on the same terrace)
42
What is the max yield permitted for Port wine production?
What is common?
55 hL/ha
Due to limited water availability, and hazards/diseases, yields more likely to be around 30 hL/ha
43
What are the main viticultural hazards for Port?
Late spring frosts in highest altitude vineyards
In some years, cool, wet weather during the early summer which disrupts flowering & fruit-set
Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot, especially in the wetter Baixo Corgo
44
What are the key vineyard management practices for Port?
Canopy management and spraying with fungicides to combat mildew and bunch rot
Fertilizers may be used as necessary to improve poor nutrient status
Herbicides may be required to control weeds that grow on slopes of patamares and compete w/ vines for water and nutrients (mower may be used instead if there is space)
On vinha ao alto slopes, cover crops may be grown to prevent erosion improve soil structure and nutrition, and reduce the presence of weeds
Many are shifting to sustainable or organic techniques where possible
45
How are grapes for Port typically harvested?
Exceptions?
Generally done by hand as much of the vineyard topography does not allow for machine harvesters
Symington Family Estates (single largest grower of the region) has been developing a suitable machine harvester to mitigate the flight of labor
46
How many grape varieties are permitted in Port production?
What grapes are the focus?
Over 100 grape varieties are permitted
Since the 1980s 5 prescribed varieties have been the focus of replanting efforts and clonal research:
Touriga Franca
Tinta Roriz
Tinta Barroca
Touriga Nacional
Tinto Cão
47
What is the common planting practice of the many small vineyard owners in The Douro
Field blend
48
Why are most Port wines made from a blend of varieties?
To make use of the differing characteristics that each variety contributes
To reduce vintage variation (cool, wet years disrupt some varieties more than others)
Many vineyards are planted as a field blend, with mix of varieties with different ripening cylces
49
What is the term for old vines in Portugal?
What are grapes from these vines typically used for?
Vinha velha
Used as key part of the blend in premium and super-premium Port wines; some make wines exclusively from old vine fruit
50
Describe Touriga Franca
Late-ripening, therefore suitable for grown in the warmest sites (low altitude, S-facing)
Tight bunches of thick skinned grapes, so relatively resistant to fungal disease
Can be vigorous so need mgmt/ summer pruning
Contributes color, tannin and acidity
Juicy red and black fruit flavors + floral aromas
Popular w/ growers and producers
By far the most grown variety
51
Describe Tinta Roriz
aka Tempranillo (Spain), Aragonez (POR)
Early ripening that is best grown in relatively cool sites (otherwise suffers from water stress)
Lends body and deep color
Capable of producing high yields, but these need to be limited so wines don’t lack concentration
52
Describe Tinta Barroca
Early ripening variety best planted on coolest sites (high altitude or N-facing slopes, generally in Baixo Corgo and Cima Corgo) to avoid heat damage and grape shriveling
Not as floral as some of the other grapes
Flavors tend to be more earthy
Unless planted on coolest sites, it can lack acidity
Color tends to fade more quickly than with Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca
Capable of producing high yields
53
Describe Touriga Nacional
Mid-ripening w/ thick-skin, producing wines w/ deep color intensity and high levels of tannin
Retains acidity well and displays concentrated flavors of black fruit and floral aromas
Said to have long aging potential so often a component of premium and long-matured wines
Can suffer from excess vegetative vigor which needs to be managed w/ summer pruning
Susceptible to coulure, which can lower yields and cause vine imbalance
54
Describe Tinta Amarela
aka Trincadeira in other parts of POR
Prone to fungal disease due to tight bunches
Produces full-bodied wines
Concentrated black fruits and spicy notes
Approachable in youth but also capable of aging
55
Describe Tinto Cão
Low yielding
Thick-skinned resistant to fungal disease
Ripens late and very tolerant of heat
Produces concentrated wines w/ high acidity
Capable of aging well
56
What are the key white varieties of Port production?
Key characteristics of each?
Malvasia Fina
AKA Boal in Madeira
Neutral wines w/ Med acidity
Full body
Slightly honeyed characteristic
Moscatel Galego Branco
AKA Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains
Aromatic
Often used for un-aged styles of Port
57
What is the typical residual sugar (RS) of Port wine
- Usually 80-120 g/L
58
What is the maximum time of skin maceration in Port?
What is the implication?
Maximum of two days
Extraction techniques need to be very effective
59
What are the key methods used for extraction during maceration in Port production?
Foot treading in “lagares” (singular lagar)
Modern “lagares”
Pumping over
Stainless steel pistons
Autovinifiers
60
Briefly describe foot treading
Shallow (80cm/ ~31in) square tanks
Allows large surface area btw must and skins
Foot treading effective but gentle enough not to crush seeds (would release bitter tannins)
Still used by small # of premium/super-premium
61
Briefly describe Modern Lagares
Pros/cons (vs traditional)
AKA robotic lagares
Silicon feet attached to SS overhead bridge structure that press grapes against the lagar floor and then punch down the cap
Reduces need for large workforce
Initial investment high
62
Briefly describe pumping over in Port production
Same as non-fortified wine production
Can produce deep color and high concentration
Not as effective as foot treading or modern lagares
63
Briefly describe the use of Stainless Steel (SS) pistons in Port production
Uses open SS vats w/ pistons that punch down the cap to a programed schedule
Can be used in conjunction w/ pumping over
Almost as effective as using lagares (when used w/ pumping over) and seems to produce similar quality wines
64
Briefly describe what autovinifiers are and how they are used in Port production
Sealed concrete or SS tanks provide a solution to cap management without electricity (note from Year in Port: electricity didn’t reach much of Douro until 1970s!)
Rising pressure of the CO2 produced from ferment pushes the juice up through pipes into a holding tank
When pressure of CO2 reaches a certain level, a valve is automatically released and the wine in the holding tank, no longer supported by the gas pressure, sprays over the cap
Inexpensive but relies on CO2 released from ferment so little extraction occurs before the ferment starts
Therefore, wines that use this technique tend to be lighter in color, body and flavor (Tawny, white, Ruby)
65
What were the traditional vessels typically used for extraction in Port? What is common now? Why?
Traditional lagares were made from granite
Modern vessels tend to be made from stainless steel
allows for easy temp control which can be useful if a longer extraction period is needed
Easy to clean
Some producers use concrete, granite or old wooden vessels, but usually for small volumes
66
Are grapes used in Port production stemmed or de-stemmed? Why? What are the pros/cons?
They may be either stemmed or de-stemmed
Stems can add bitterness if unripe (negative)
Stems can aid in pressing when they are fully ripe - reducing compaction of the pomace and enabling better drainage (positive)
67
What are the typical fermentation temps for (non-White) Port?
As with other red wines, temps tend to be 28-32C (82-90F)
Warm enough to allow sufficient extraction but not so warm that ferment progresses too quickly and reduces the available extraction time before pressing and fortification
68
What are the typical fermentation temps for White Port?
Ranges from 17-22C (63-72F)
There are also White Ports made in a highly oxidized style (typical when Malvasia is a key part of the blend). These tend to be slightly warmer - 20-22C (68-72F) to extract more phenolics
69
What requirements are there regarding the spirit that is used to fortify Port wines?
Spirit must come from grapes or grape-derived products
Must be 77% abv (+/- 0.5%)
Typically called “aguardente”
From 1967-1976 all aguardente had to be purchased from the Casa do Douro; from 1976 the IVP tendered the contract for the spirit - meaning all producers were using the same spirit
Since 1991, producers have been able to source and buy their own aguardente thus can use different spirits for different styles of wine (some will use more/less neutral depending on the focus on the grape wine)
70
To what abv level are Port wines fortified?
Most are fortified to between 19-22% alcoholic strength
The exception is for basic ruby, tawny, white and rosé Ports that can be fortified to a min 18% abv
71
What is the alcoholic strength of aguardente? How does that compare to the spirits used for other fortified wines?
Fortified wines other than Port typically used spirits that are in the range of 95-96% abv
These spirits are neutral
Aguardente is 77% abv (+/- 0.5%) and therefore adds more character and adds a “spirit-y” aroma. Additionally more is required to reach similar level of alcohol.
72
How do the spirits used for Port compare to those used for other fortified wines?
The spirit used for Port (aguardente) is lower in alcohol - 77% abv vs 95-95% for other fortified wines
This means that the aguardente has more character rather than being neutral
Additionally, since this spirit is lower alcohol, more must be used to achieve a similar level of strength (approx. 1L of spirit for every 4L of fermenting must to get to 20% abv). This, in turn, means that b/c there is more spirit to must ratio, the spirit has more influence on the final style and quality of the wine
73
At what abv level is fermentation of Port must stopped via fortification?
When the wine reaches ~5-7%
Depends on the concentration of sugar the producer wants to retain in the wine - generally from 80-120 g/L
74
Why does the draining of the must from the skins during Port production have to be efficient?
Because the aguardente (fortifying spirit) is not added until the wine is drained from the skins, and since the wine will continue fermenting until it is fortified, the process must be efficient so as not to use up sugar that may be desired in the final wine
Modern fermentation vessels (including modern lagares) are designed to drain as quickly as possible, compared to traditional granite lagares which can take hours to drain
75
Why are modern lagares designed to drain more quickly than traditional lagares?
Because the fermenting must will continue fermenting until the spirit (aguardente) is added, which does not happen until the wine is fully drained from the skins
As fermentation continues, the sugar level drops and may go below what the winemaker desired in the final Port
76
What happens to the skins left after draining the Port must?
The skins will be pressed and much of this press wine will be blended into the fortified free run wine to provide greater color and tannin, necessary for wines that are to undergo long periods of aging
77
At what level of ripeness are Port grapes picked? What implications does this have?
They are picked when the tannins and flavors are ripe
Too much alcohol is not a consideration for these wines
Since they are ripe, acidity can be low and pH high, therefore acidification is common
78
Does Port wine typically go through Malolactic Conversion? Why / why not?
- No. Lactic acid bacteria are unable to tolerate the high concentration of alcohol in the wine after fortification. Additionally, the wines are already low acidity and MLF would make that acidity be perceived as even lower
79
Where do Ports typically spend their first winter? Subsequent?
All spend their 1st winter in the Douro
In the spring, they may be shipped from wineries in the vineyard area to lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia
80
How are Port wines often clarified from their gross lees?
During the months that follow fermentation, the wines are left to clarify before they are racked off their gross lees
A rotary vacuum filter is often used to extract the remaining wine from the lees
81
When does blending happen for Port?
- It can happen at any time
82
What are the key things that are used in blending Port?
Different vineyard parcels
Different grape varieties (although some are co-fermented)
(And depending on style) different vintages to maintain a consistent YOY and consistent NV house style (not for vintage port)
83
What are the KEY reasons for blending in Port?
Many Ports are non-vintage (NV) and consumers expect consistency YOY
Port producers typically have a house style and blending past vintages can help maintain that style consistency
Blending can help achieve the profile and quality for the style it is to become - such as Vintage Port will have deeper color, more concentration of flavors and higher tannins compared to Reserve Ruby or LBV
84
Where do modern Port producers store their Port for maturation? Why?
While the climate of Vila Nova de Gaia is better suited to the maturation of Port wines than the vineyard area (due to strong Atlantic influence the temps are cooler and more constant), most producers have built well-insulated, humidity controlled lodges in the vineyard area
This is mainly due to the rise in tourism in Vila Nova de Gaia and the congestion that came with it
85
What vessels are used for Port maturation?
Most styles of Port are aged in oak, even if for a relatively short time
The size of the oak vessels varies greatly, depending on the O2 level desired
The largest are called balseiros - 100,000 liters - generally used to store wine and keep it fresh
For gentle oxidation, 600 L barrels called pipes are used
New oak aromas are not desired
86
What is a method beyond the choice of barrels that Port producers can use to control the amount of oxidation?
The frequency of racking to remove lees during the maturation process
The degree to which vessels are topped up with wine
87
What influences the ripeness and concentration of the grapes used in Port production
Much depends on the weather
Producers can have an impact through canopy management techniques and harvesting dates
88
How might a Port producer treat grapes that are less ripe?
Producers may use relatively gentle extraction on their least-ripe grapes so as not to extract under-ripe tannins or flavors
This wine is best suited to less concentrated styles such as basic Tawny
89
Describe Basic Ruby Port
M body
M tannin
Mixture of red & black fruit flavors
Suitable for early drinking; not suitable for aging (fruity w/o much tannin
Expected to be consistent YOY
Generally acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid-price
Often simple fruity flavors and can have slightly harsh alcohol (due to lower quality spirit used)
90
How is Basic Ruby Port made?
Usually protective winemaking to retain primary fruit flavors
SS or concrete fermenting and aging the wines in bulk (usually SS or concrete vessels, or sometimes large old wooden vessels
Aging a max of 3 year
Generally a blend of more than 1 year (YOY consistency)
91
Describe Basic Tawny
Show some lightness and browning of color in common w/ other Tawny Ports but not from long oxidative aging
92
How is Basic Tawny made?
Often aged no longer than Ruby Ports (3 years)
Paler color comes from light extraction during fermentation (similar to Rosé Ports) making them seem older than they are (appearance)
Fermenting must may be drained early, concentrating the remaining wine which can be used to add more color and flavor to Ruby Port
93
What is the aging requirement for Reserve Ruby? For Reserve Tawny?
Reserve Tawny must be aged in wood for a minimum of 6 years
There is no min aging requirement for Reserve Ruby Port but they must be tasted and approved by the IVDP tasting panel
94
How does a Reserve Tawny differ from a Basic Tawny?
Reserve Tawny must be aged in wood for a minimum of 6 years
Reserve Tawny is higher quality and likely has its color due to extensive aging
Basic Tawny is lower quality; its color is paler due to lower extraction
95
How does Reserve Ruby differ from Basic Ruby?
Reserve Ruby Ports are higher quality wines
Reserve Ruby must be tasted by the IVDP tasting panel to qualify as Reserve
Reserve Ruby tends to be more concentrated
Basic Ruby may have more simple fruity flavors and slightly harsh alcohol
96
How are Age-Indicated Tawny Ports made?
Aged for long periods in wooden barrels
Barrels typically called “pipes” and hold 620-640 liters
Large barrels permit controlled exposure to O2 which over time softens tannins, integrates alcohol, and transitions fruit from primary to tertiary flavors from fruit development (e.g. dried fruit) and oxidation (e.g. coffee, caramel, walnut)
Barrel are old/used and do not contribute oak flavors
Barrels are racked and topped off periodically due to gradual evaporation of wine
Clarification and stabilization occurs naturally in barrel over a long period so wines do not tend to need filtration during bottling
97
What age-indications can be stated on a Tawny Port label?
- 10, 20, 30, 40
- From 2022 on, 50 year-old category has been approved
98
What do the age-indications on Tawny Port labels indicate?
The age specified (10, 20, 30, 40) is NOT the minimum amount of time the wine must be aged
These are usually blends of more than one vintage which can be much younger and/or much older
The wines are tasted by a panel within the IDVP and must be deemed as characteristic of a wine that age
99
What is the new sub-category of Tawny Port that has arisen? How old are they? Examples?
Very old (non-age indicated)
Some are more than 150 years old
Started with Taylor’s Scion (more than 150 yr old)
Others such as Graham’s Ne Oublie (dating to 1882)
100
What is Colheita? What requirements?
- Tawny Ports that are made from grapes of a single vintage
- Must be aged in small barrels a min 7 yrs before bottling
- Label must state vintage AND bottling year
- Can be topped off w/other wines or spirits to avoid ullage
101
What are the requirements for Colheita Port?
Must be from a single vintage (although the wine in barrel can be topped up with other wines or spirit to avoid ullage)
Must be aged in small barrels for a minimum of 7 years before bottling
Label must state the vintage of the wine as well as the year the wine was bottled
102
What tends to be more expensive, Vintage Port or Colheita?
Vintage Port tends to be more expensive
Some shippers hold small stocks of very old Colheita wines that can sell for super premium prices
103
Does all Colheita Port from a single vintage have to be bottled at the same time?
No. While a Colheita must be barrel aged for a minimum of 7 years before being bottled, a shipper can bottle only a portion of the wine after that time, and continue to release portions over coming years
This is one reason that the Colheita bottle will indicate BOTH the vintage of the wine and the bottling year
104
What is Vintage Port?
What requirements?
Key grapes?
Port wines from one “declared” vintage
Producers must register their intention to release a Vintage Port in the second year after harvest and the young wine is approved by an IVDP tasting panel
Grapes come from good vintage, high quality plots (often shipper’s own vineyards, usually old vines)
Touriga Franca & Touriga Nacional key components
Max 3 yr large wood vessels before extensive bottle aging
Majority bottled after 18-20mo wood age
105
How often is Vintage Port produced? (Examples?)
Producers usually only declare Vintage Port in years where their grapes and young wines are of exceptional quality
There are some years where a majority of shippers will declare a vintage (e.g. 2011, 2016) whereas in other years the decision is more mixed (e.g. 2015)
It is rare to declare a vintage 2 years in a row, in part due to not wanting to potentially steal sales from each other
106
Which grapes are typically the key components of a Vintage Port? Why?
Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional
These grapes give color, tannin, and flavor concentration for long-term aging
107
What happens to barrels of maturing Port that are not deemed suitable for Vintage Port?
They may become Single Quinta Ports, LBV, Crusted Port or even possibly a form of Tawny Port
108
What are the requirements for Vintage Port?
Producers must register their intention to release a Vintage
Port in the 2nd year after harvest
Producer tastes along the way to decide if, and which lots, might be worthy
The young wine must be approved by an IVDP tasting panel
Undergo a max of 3 years in large old wooden vessels before extensive bottle aging, although a majority are bottled during the second spring after the harvest (18-20 months in wood)
Bottled w/o fining or filtration (results in heavy deposit of sediment on opening and pouring)
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What insures the stability of color in Vintage Port
The small amount of oxygen exposure during the ~18-20 months in large old wooden vessels
This results in anthocyanin-tannin bonding
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Describe Vintage Port. How does this vary with bottle-aging?
Young Vintage Ports tend to be
deep in color and
full bodied with
high levels of tannins and
pronounced intensity of ripe black fruit and sometimes floral notes
As they age
Gradually develop flavors of dried fruit AND forest floor
Tannins and alcohol become more integrated
Tend to be VG to O quality and sell for premium/super-premium prices
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Why do Vintage Ports tend to be highly profitable for producers
These wines spend a limited time in wooden vessels (typically 18-20 months, max 3 years)
The wines are released relatively early from the winery
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What is “Single Quinta” Port
A wine from one year that is made only from the grapes of one estate (Quinta) that is stated on the label
May be produced in a year when the producer doesn’t produce a Vintage Port (for example, the weather has not been suitable to produce grapes of sufficient quality)
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Provide examples of Single Quinta
Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas
Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos
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What is Crusted Port?
Non-vintage Port
Aged in wood up to 2 years before being bottled w/o fining or filtration (hence a deposit or “crust” forms in the bottle)
Can be similar in style to Vintage Port and have considerable aging potential
Usually G to VG and mid- to premium priced
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What requirements are there for Crusted Port?
Non-vintage
No fining or filtration
Bottling date must appear on the label
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What does it mean if a Crusted Port label indicates “bottle matured”?
- After 3 years of bottle aging it may say this on the label
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What is Late Bottled Vintage Port (LBV)?
Port wines made from a single year
Must be bottled between 4-6 years after harvest
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How does LBV differ from Vintage Port?
LBV does not tend to be of the same quality as that of Vintage
LBV is aged longer before bottling
LBV is considered ready to drink upon release
Many LBVs are filtered on bottling so can be drunk w/o decanting (although not all are)
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How are LBVs matured?
Before bottling the wine is usually stored in large old wooden vessels or stainless steel vats to avoid oxidation
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What does it mean if a LBV Port indicates “bottle matured” on the label?
LBV must be bottled between 4-6 years after harvest
However, beyond this time, wines that have been aged for 3 years in bottle before release from the winery can have this on the label
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What shipper/producer “invented” Rosé Port? When?
- Croft invented it in the late 2000s
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Describe the grapes used for Rosé Port
Made from black grape varieties
Tend to come from the coolest areas, high altitudes or from the Baixo Corgo
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How is Rosé Port made
Black grape must left to macerate for only a few HOURS before draining the free run juice and clarification (some of the lightest press juice may also be used
Fermentation at 15-16C (59-61F) to retain red berry fruit aromas
Aguardente spirit used is as neutral as possible and high quality so as not to stand out
Wines bottled soon after fortification
Released from the winery within a year
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Describe Rosé Port
Less intense flavors and usually little tannin as compared to red Ports
Inexpensive to mid-priced
Color and flavor depends on producer, but color ranges from pale pink-orange to deep pink
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When are the grapes for White Port harvested?
If the white grapes are scattered within mixed vineyards (which is often the case), they will be harvested along with the red grapes and separated
If they are grown in vineyard parcels dedicated to white grapes, they may be harvested first
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Are White Ports uniform or do they come in a range of styles?
Made in a range of styles with varying degrees of sweetness and oxidation
Some are fruity, unoxidized - typically with Moscatel (Gallego Branco aka Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) as one of the key grape varieties
Some are highly oxidized - typically with Malvasia (Fina) as a key part of the blend
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Describe a fruity, unoxidized White Port
Often lemon in color
Tend to be M body
Flavors of stone fruits or floral notes
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Describe oxidized White Port
Subtle flavors in youth becoming honeyed and nutty with age
Tend to show flavors of caramel, citrus peel, dried stone fruits and nuts
Can be amber or even brown in color
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Describe how fruity, unoxidized White Port is made
Grapes are crushed, SO2 added and maceration may last a couple of hours at chilled temps to limit oxidation
Must is then drained and pressed and the juice is fermented off the skins at temps similar to those used for unfortified whites (17-18C/ 63-64F) to enhance/retain fruity aromas
Wine may be stored in either SS or very large old oak casks for a short period
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Describe how oxidized White Port is made
Typically use Malvasia as key part of the blend
Crushed, but spend slightly longer on the skins than unoxidized
Fermented at slightly warmer temps (20-22C/ 68-72F) to extract more phenolics that will support the wine during aging
Aged for several years in small casks (like Tawny)
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What labeling terms can be used for White Port?
Same labeling terms as Tawny
Can be labelled “Reserve” if aged in wood for min 7 years
Can be labeled w/ age-indications of 10, 20, 30, 40 if deemed to have characteristics by IVDP tasting panel
Can be classified as Colheita if single vintage and aged min of 7 years.
In 2022, approved for 50 yr and VVO (80 yr)
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What is the general ownership structure in the Douro?
Land ownership is very fragmented
~20k landowners (OLD: w/ 43% owning less than 0.5ha and 92% owning <5ha) with average only 2.2ha each
Most owners sell grapes to med/large producers or a coop
Coops produce ~20% of the wine, many of whom then sell their wine to the producers
Brokers are often employed
There are far fewer producers, than there were, with only 30-35 producers producing significant volume. There are 5 main groups that make up 80% of sales volume
133
Name the 5 main groups of producers that make up 80% of Port production
Porto Cruz - largest, owns largest single brand Gran Cruz
Symington Family (Cockburn’s, Dow’s, Graham’s, Warre’s, et al)
Sogrape (Portugal’s largest WINE producer, owns Sandeman, Offley, Ferreira)
The Fladgate Partnership (Taylor’s, Fonseca, Croft, Krohn)
Sogevinus (Burmester, Barros, Cálem, Kopke)
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What role(s) does the IVDP serve?
Created in 2003 to govern and represent the interests of wine producers in the Douro
SUPERVISES the production and trade of wines in the Douro (both unfortified and Port)
REGULATES the amount of Port that can be produced in any one year (the beneficio) and holds the register of vineyards as well as companies involved in wine production and shipping
CONTROLS the volume of Port that can be released onto the market in a year (set at a max of 1/3 of a shipper’s total stocks)
ANALYZES and tastes Port wines to ensure they meet specifications of legally defined styles
Promotion of Port and unfortified wines of the Douro
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What is the Beneficio in Port?
Refers to both the amount of Port must that can be produced each year and the system itself
Each vineyard parcel is classified on scale of “A to I”
Classification determines the amount of Port wine that can be made from a parcel
Sets the prices of grapes used for Port
Aims to balance supply and demand
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How are the vineyards of Port classified?
On a scale of A to I which is called the beneficio
Considers factors such as location, altitude, aspect, soil, varieties planted
"A" denotes the highest quality which in turn can produce the most Port wine
Ratings below F cannot make Port wine, but can be used to make unfortified wine or be distilled into spirits
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What is the main aim of the benficio?
To keep grape and wine prices stable through its influence on the balance of supply and demand
138
How do the prices set for Port grapes differ from those outside the beneficio?
Port grape prices are generally high (1.2-1.4 Euro) versus those outside the beneficio system (0.25-0.40 Euro)
139
What is the general sales trend for Port?
After 3 decades of growth at the end of the 20th century, sales peaked at the millennium and have been steadily declining since
One bright spot is the increase in average price, due to increasing sales of premium wines such as age-indicated Tawny Ports
This is thought to be attributable to increasing quality of production and effective marketing of premium products
140
What % of Port is exported? What is the largest export market?
87% as of 2019
France is largest market by volume (POR is 2nd), particularly for inexpensive styles drunk as aperitif
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What Port products are being targeted to bring new consumers to the Port category? Why/How?
Rosé and un-aged White Ports
Rosé can be drunk as an aperitif but also for use in cocktails
White Port is also sometimes used in cocktails, but also mixed w/ tonic as an aperitif. It has a lower alcohol concentration than many spirits and mixers (such as Gin & Tonic) which is attractive to some consumers
Premium red Ports are being marketed to the hospitality sector (photo op of a 4.5L bottle of Tawny Port)
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What is a Balseiro
A large vat used in Port production that can hold 100,000 liters, generally used to keep wines fresh
143
What is the name for the large (oak) barrels used in Port production? How big (liters) sate they?
Balseiros
100,000 liters
144
What are “pipes” as related to Port production?
Barrels used when oxidation is desired in Port.
These barrels are ~600 liters and are neutral
145
What are the smaller barrels used in Port production called? How many liters are they?
Called “pipes”
~600 liters
146
What is the maximum volume that a Port producer can release onto the market in a given year, relative to their total stock?
- Max of 1/3 of shipper’s total stock can be released in 1 year
147
What new categories of Vintage Port was approved in 2022?
"Very Old Wines": 50-year for White & Tawny
"Very Very Old" or VVO or W for wines over 80 years (White & Tawny)
