Port Flashcards
Chapter 3 Port
What explains to origins of Port?
Trade wars between England and France in the 17th century
Caused the English to increase trade with Portugal
Brandy was added to stabilize the DRY wines and make sure they made it to England in good condition
How did the practice of fortifying wine DURING fermentation start in Port?
2 British merchants visited the Abbot of Lamego and found the SWEET wines there were of a higher quality than the DRY wines seen anywhere else
They shipped the entire stocks to England
Name some of the earliest Port shippers
- Kopke, Warre, Croft, Quarles Harris and Taylor’s
What was the traditional role of Shippers in Port? How has that evolved?
Shippers were agents that took a commission for shipping Port abroad or acquired Port from brokers in the Douro and then stored them in ‘lodges’ in Vila Nova de Gaia prior to onward shipment overseas
Most have now become producers and have become dominant players in the production of Port with their own vineyards, wineries and bottling facilities
What is meant by a Port “lodge”?
These are wine cellars/ warehouses, traditionally maintained by “shippers”
What treaty ensured that Portuguese wines received lower rates of duty in England than those of any other country?
- the Methuen Treaty in 1703
How was the success of Port in the 1700’s problematic?
Port’s popularity lead to production of large amounts of poor-quality port-style wines (using poor quality spirit, thin wines, and bolstering color with elderberry juice)
Poor quality led to slumping demand, over-supply and falling grape & wine prices
What was done to address slumping demand for Port in the 1700s? When?
In 1756, the Marquês de Pombal (Prime Minister of POR) drew up production regulations to officially demarcate Port wines
Pombal also created the Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro - aka Real Companhia Velha - from which all Ports for export had to be bought
The Companhia also fixed prices and also had the right to supply the spirit used in fortification
What is the Methuen Treaty? When was it signed?
A treaty between England and Portugal that ensured Portuguese wines received lower rates of duty than any other country
1703
What key events happened in Portugal in the 19th century, affecting Port?
Early 19th century = Peninsular Wars and Portuguese Civil war
Later in the century, vineyards hit by both mildew and then phylloxera
Many small producers needed to sell their land and properties in order to survive
Shippers took advantage and started to own vineyards and Quintas (estates)
What body is responsible for the administration and supervision of the Port industry? When was it started?
Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP)
Instituted 1933
What body is responsible for supervising the GROWERS within the Port demarcation? When was it created?
Casa do Douro
1932
When were the vineyard parcels in the Douro first rated based on suitability for producing Port?
Just after the creation of the IVP (Instituto do Vinho do Porto) and Casa do Douro
Approx 1932/33
What is the name of the Port classification system? What is the scale on which it rates vineyard parcels of the Douro?
The Beneficio
Rating scale A to I based on suitability for producing Port
When did Portugal enter the EU?
- In 1986
What key change happened in 1991 that affected how Port producers made their wines?
As a result of entering the EU in 1986, by 1991 producers were permitted to source their own aguardente (fortification spirit) on the open market (rather than being controlled by the Casa do Douro)
This lead to a rise in the quality in the spirit used and an increase in quality of Port wines overall
What is the name of the spirit used to fortify Port wine?
- Aguardente
What controversial move happened in the Port industry in 1990? What was the result?
The Casa do Douro bought 40% of Royal Oporto (one of the largest shippers at the time)
It was supposed to allow growers to trade their own products, but the venture went bankrupt
This led to a new inter-professional body - the Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro (IVDP) - to supervise both Port and Douro wine producers
What is the IVDP?
When did it come about?
How was it different than IVP?
IVDP = Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro
Created in 2003 after the bankruptcy of Casa do Douro
Created to supervise BOTH Port and Douro wine producers
What are Patamares
One of three vineyard layouts used in the Douro. These are wider planted terraces supported by a steep ramp of earth rather than a stone wall (as with socalcos). They run diagonally up and down the slope.
Is foot treading common in Port production? Why/ why not?
Traditionally it was common because it is the gentlest way to achieve quick extraction
However, de-population in vineyard areas has made it difficult to find the labor necessary for foot-treading so alternative solutions continue to be perfected and are now used for wines of all quality levels
Where is the Douro region?
- NE Portugal
What is the general climate of the Douro region (including temp(s))
What mitigating factor?
Warm continental,
with temps reaching 40C (104F) in the summer and freezing temps not unusual in winter
Distance from the Atlantic and protection from the Serra do Marão to the W of the region means vineyards are warmer and drier than Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia (70km away
What are the 3 main sub-regions of the Port vineyard area?
From West to East
Baixo Corgo
Cima Corgo
Douro Superior
Which of Port’s subregions is the coolest and wettest? How much rain?
Baixo Corgo
900mm rainfall/year
Which wines tend to be produced from fruit in the Baixo Cargo? Why?
Inexpensive Ruby and Tawny Ports (also Rosé)
The cooler wetter climate
High extraction is less important for these wines from both a color and tannin perspective
What is the Cima Corgo climate?
How much rainfall?
What is it known for?
It is warmer and drier than the Baixo Corgo (700mm rainfall vs 900mm)
Not as dry as the Douro Superior (700mm vs 450)
Most of the well-known producers have vineyards in this region used to produce Age-indicated Tawny Port and Vintage Ports
Describe the Douro Superior (rainfall, climate, plantings)
It is the warmest and driest of the 3 sub-regions of Port
450mm of rainfall vs 900mm Baixo Corgo, 700mm Cima Corgo
Drought is a frequent issue
Sparsely planted
Relatively flat which allows mechanization so plantings are increasing
Describe the soils of the Douro
Stony, shallow, free-draining soils
Poor nutrients, limiting vigor
Underlying bedrock is schist (crumbles into layers relatively easily)
Schist in this area is split into vertical layers (rather than the more common horizontal) which allows roots to penetrate deep into bedrock to find water
Is irrigation permitted in the Douro for Port?
Only in exceptional circumstances, such as periods of drought under which the vine could be in extreme hydric stress
What are the 3 main vineyard layouts of the Douro Valley?
Socalcos
Patamares
Vinha ao Alto
What are Socalcos?
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock
Not typically suitable for mechanization so not typically considered for planting new vineyards
Those of the Douro are protected by UNESCO so cannot be converted to other layouts (although can be left to decay?)
What is the typical planting density for Socalcos? When is this varied?
Allow for planting densities of 6000 vines/hectare
Can be planted at lower densities to allow for a small tractor to enter the terraces to reduce need for labor
What are Patamares?
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Terraces supported by a steep earth ramp rather than a stone wall (as would be for Socalcos)
They allow for small tractors to run up and down the slopes by the use of tracks than run diagonally up the slope
Cheaper to implement and maintain than Socalcos
However erosion and weeds on the ramps can be problematic
What are the typical planting densities for Patamares?
3000-3500 vines/ hectare, as the ramps take up a lot of space
What are the two types of Patamares?
How do they compare?
Original style (from when bulldozers were large). Large, wide patameres that support 2 rows of vines on each terrace.
Makes efficient use of land, but uneven ripeness can be an issue
Narrow patamares that only support 1 row of vines
More modern version carved by newer, smaller bulldozers
Often use laser tech to ensure precise construction
Often tilted slightly toward the slope and also from 1 side to the other to improve water absorption and drainage + reduce erosion
Fewer problems of uneven ripening
What are Vinha ao Alto?
Density?
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Vines are planted in vertical rows up the slopes
Least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high-density planting (~5000 vines/ ha)
Why would a vintner like to use Vinha ao Alto? What are the limitations?
Least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high density planting (~5k vines/ha)
Efficient use of the land
However, above 40% incline, mechanization cannot be used, therefore in these situations patamares are more likely
Water runoff and erosion can be significant problems
How are vines typically trained / pruned in the Douro?
Cordon-trained and spur-pruned or
Head-trained and cane-pruned
VSP trellised to promote even sun exposure and ripening, and allow for mechanization where viable
What rootstocks are used in Douro?
Drought-tolerant rootstocks such as 110R and 1103P
Both of which are hybrids of V. rupestris and V. berlandieri
What are key considerations when replanting Port vineyards?
Socalcos are UNESCO protected so cannot be converted to other layouts; can be planted at lower densities to allow small tractors to enter and reduce need for labor
In other cases, the goal is often on increasing vine density
Vineyard layouts that allow mechanization
Selecting the best planting material (grape variety, rootstock, etc) for the area of land (which may include planting different grape varieties on the same terrace)
What is the max yield permitted for Port wine production?
What is common?
55 hL/ha
Due to limited water availability, and hazards/diseases, yields more likely to be around 30 hL/ha
What are the main viticultural hazards for Port?
Late spring frosts in highest altitude vineyards
In some years, cool, wet weather during the early summer which disrupts flowering & fruit-set
Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot, especially in the wetter Baixo Corgo
What are the key vineyard management practices for Port?
Canopy management and spraying with fungicides to combat mildew and bunch rot
Fertilizers may be used as necessary to improve poor nutrient status
Herbicides may be required to control weeds that grow on slopes of patamares and compete w/ vines for water and nutrients (mower may be used instead if there is space)
On vinha ao alto slopes, cover crops may be grown to prevent erosion improve soil structure and nutrition, and reduce the presence of weeds
Many are shifting to sustainable or organic techniques where possible
How are grapes for Port typically harvested?
Exceptions?
Generally done by hand as much of the vineyard topography does not allow for machine harvesters
Symington Family Estates (single largest grower of the region) has been developing a suitable machine harvester to mitigate the flight of labor
How many grape varieties are permitted in Port production?
What grapes are the focus?
Over 100 grape varieties are permitted
Since the 1980s 5 prescribed varieties have been the focus of replanting efforts and clonal research:
Touriga Franca
Tinta Roriz
Tinta Barroca
Touriga Nacional
Tinto Cão
What is the common planting practice of the many small vineyard owners in The Douro
Field blend
Why are most Port wines made from a blend of varieties?
To make use of the differing characteristics that each variety contributes
To reduce vintage variation (cool, wet years disrupt some varieties more than others)
Many vineyards are planted as a field blend, with mix of varieties with different ripening cylces
What is the term for old vines in Portugal?
What are grapes from these vines typically used for?
Vinha velha
Used as key part of the blend in premium and super-premium Port wines; some make wines exclusively from old vine fruit
Describe Touriga Franca
Late-ripening, therefore suitable for grown in the warmest sites (low altitude, S-facing)
Tight bunches of thick skinned grapes, so relatively resistant to fungal disease
Can be vigorous so need mgmt/ summer pruning
Contributes color, tannin and acidity
Juicy red and black fruit flavors + floral aromas
Popular w/ growers and producers
By far the most grown variety
Describe Tinta Roriz
aka Tempranillo (Spain), Aragonez (POR)
Early ripening that is best grown in relatively cool sites (otherwise suffers from water stress)
Lends body and deep color
Capable of producing high yields, but these need to be limited so wines don’t lack concentration
Describe Tinta Barroca
Early ripening variety best planted on coolest sites (high altitude or N-facing slopes, generally in Baixo Corgo and Cima Corgo) to avoid heat damage and grape shriveling
Not as floral as some of the other grapes
Flavors tend to be more earthy
Unless planted on coolest sites, it can lack acidity
Color tends to fade more quickly than with Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca
Capable of producing high yields
Describe Touriga Nacional
Mid-ripening w/ thick-skin, producing wines w/ deep color intensity and high levels of tannin
Retains acidity well and displays concentrated flavors of black fruit and floral aromas
Said to have long aging potential so often a component of premium and long-matured wines
Can suffer from excess vegetative vigor which needs to be managed w/ summer pruning
Susceptible to coulure, which can lower yields and cause vine imbalance
Describe Tinta Amarela
aka Trincadeira in other parts of POR
Prone to fungal disease due to tight bunches
Produces full-bodied wines
Concentrated black fruits and spicy notes
Approachable in youth but also capable of aging
Describe Tinto Cão
Low yielding
Thick-skinned resistant to fungal disease
Ripens late and very tolerant of heat
Produces concentrated wines w/ high acidity
Capable of aging well
What are the key white varieties of Port production?
Key characteristics of each?
Malvasia Fina
AKA Boal in Madeira
Neutral wines w/ Med acidity
Full body
Slightly honeyed characteristic
Moscatel Galego Branco
AKA Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains
Aromatic
Often used for un-aged styles of Port
What is the typical residual sugar (RS) of Port wine
- Usually 80-120 g/L
What is the maximum time of skin maceration in Port?
What is the implication?
Maximum of two days
Extraction techniques need to be very effective