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WSET Diploma D5 2022 > Madeira > Flashcards

Madeira Flashcards

Ch 4 Madeira

1
Q

Where is Madeira?

A

It is a Portuguese island in the Atlantic Ocean
It is ~600km from the coast of Morocco

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2
Q

What were the main exports of Madeira when the island was first discovered?
How and when did that change?

A

Initially sugar, wheat and (grape) vines were the main cash crops and exports

The sugar industry declined in the 16th Century (mainly due to competition) and wine became the main export

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3
Q

How did the style of Madeira come to be?

A

Exports of wine from Madeira grew in the 17th & 18th Century as British merchants arrived and sent wine to their colonies in N America & W Indies
It was found that long periods of time pitching and rolling in the holds of ships sailing to and from the tropics improved the quality of the wines – periods of time in variable temps and hot conditions
Soon, the wines were used as hold ballast (weight in the hull to balance the ship) on such trips with the sole purpose of improving the quality of the wine

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4
Q

What happened to Madeira in the 19th and 20th Centuries?

A

Mid to late 19th century = powdery mildew, then phylloxera, destroying vines and reducing yields

During the 20th century, Prohibition in the USA, 2 World Wars and the Russian Revolution negatively impacted the wine trade on many of Madeira’s major markets

Toward the end of the century sales became more stable, but tastes changed and sales fell well below their 18th century peak

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5
Q

What is the Instituto do Vinho da Madeira and when was it founded?

A

Founded 1979

Regulates production, although superseded in 2006 by the Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, IP-RAM (IVBAM) [coordinates & supports Madeira and embroidery(!) industries]

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6
Q

What key factor led to an increase in the quality of Madeira wines?

A

Portugal’s entry to the EU in 1986, when more regulations were introduced
Additionally EU subsidies led to improvements in the quality of the wines

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7
Q

What is the climate of Madeira?

A

Warm summers (20-22C/ 68-72F)
Mild winters (16-17C/ 61-63F)
The majority of the rain falls in the autumn and winter
Warm and humid, with high disease pressure

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8
Q

How can Madeira’s climate be a problem?

A

It is so temperate that there can be a lack of winter dormancy in the warmest sites

Warm and humid with high disease pressure

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9
Q

How does the north and center of the Madeira island compare to the south?

A

The island has mountains reaching up to 1800m (vineyards up to 800m) which cause moist air in the humid winds arriving from the north to cool and condense into rainclouds, meaning that the north and center of the island are considerably cooler and wetter (rainfall can exceed 3000mm/yr in the center) than the south

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10
Q

What is the vineyard acreage of Madeira?
Where are the vineyards generally found?

A

Madeira has an area of ~74k ha of which only around 450ha are planted w/ vineyards

Vineyards can be found up to altitudes of around 800m and tend to be located relatively near the coast (forests mainly cover the center of the island)

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11
Q

Describe the soils of Madeira

A

Volcanic in origin and high in nutrients

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12
Q

What is the typical vine vigor in Madeira? Why?

A

High nutrient soils and plentiful rainfall provide fertile conditions for vigorous vines

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13
Q

How did the varieties planted in Madeira change with the arrival of powdery mildew and phylloxera?

A

Prior: Verdelho had been the most planted variety, with Malvasia and Terrantez being highly esteemed

After: American and hybrid varieties were planted to produce large, reliable crops (although these could not produce wines of the same quality)
After joining the EU, many of these (although not all) were replanted; note that the the remaining American and hybrids cannot be used for making Madeira

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14
Q

What was the traditional way of classifying grapes for Madeira? How is that now?

A

Traditional categories: noble, good, authorized

Now: recommended, and authorized, with the latter mainly made up of varieties that were introduced after phylloxera but without the same quality potential

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15
Q

What are the “noble” varieties of Madeira?

A
  • Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia
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16
Q

What is the main vinifera variety that has been planted in Madeira since the arrival of phylloxera? Why?

A

Tinta Negra
Produces high yields and is easy to grow

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17
Q

What are the varieties that are currently considered “recommended” in the production of Madeira?

A
  • Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia, Tinta Negra, Terrantez
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18
Q

Describe Tinta Negra (grape)

A

Black grape
Most planted variety on Maderia
High yielding and easy to grow
Used to make wines where a level of sweetness rather than grape variety appears on the label
Used in wines of all sweetness levels

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19
Q

Describe Sercial (grape)

A

Known for high acidity
Used in driest styles of Madeira
Late ripening and, especially in cool sites, is latest variety picked (barely above min potential alcohol levels)
Resistant to powdery mildew but susceptible to botrytis bunch rot
Can experience poor fruit set
Plantings are small

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20
Q

Describe Verdelho (grape)

A

2nd most planted vinifera variety on Maderia
High acidity but slightly lower than Sercial
Susceptible to botrytis bunch rot, coulure, and downy & powdery mildews

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21
Q

Describe Boal (grape)

A

Umbrella term for a # of grape varieties
The variety that grows in Madeira is Boal Cachudo, aka Malvasia Fina (as found in White Port)
Grows best on warm, low altitude sites in the S of the island
Susceptible to drought and needs adequate irrigation to survive
Typically used to produce semi-sweet wines

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22
Q

Describe Malvasia (grape)

A

This is an umbrella term for a # of grape varieties
Malvasia Candida was historically the most important Malvasia (in Madeira) and is still prized for its quality
Is susceptible to powdery mildew which can limit yields, therefore plantings are small
Malvasia de Sao Jorge is the most common grown on Madeira
Can produce high yields but is susceptible to botrytis bunch rot

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23
Q

Describe Terrantez (grape)

A

Plantings are limited
Susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot therefore it is picked soon after reaching 9% potential abv

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24
Q

Describe the vineyards of Madeira

A

Given the mountainous nature of the island, many vineyards are terraced to make planting on steep slopes viable

Vines are generally trained and trellised into a pergola system (here called latadas)

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25
What are “latadas”?
Name for the pergola vine training system used in Madeira
26
What type of vine training is used in Madeira? Why?
Generally pergolas are used (here called latadas). Vineyards are also cordon-trained, VSP trellised (here called espaldeira) Pergola allows air circulation above and beneath the vine which helps reduce incidence of fungal disease in the humid climate It also permits other crops to be grown on the land underneath, making effective use of a small landholding
27
What is “espaldeira”?
Name used in Madeira for cordon-trained, VSP trellised vines
28
What are the key vineyard challenges in Madeira? Why?
Madeira has a warm, humid climate This leads to challenges with downy mildew, botrytis bunch rot and Phomopsis
29
Are chemical treatments used in Madeira? Why/why not?
Madeira’s warm, humid climate leads to downy mildew, botrytis bunch rot, Phomopsis While canopy management techniques can help, fungicide sprays are usually necessary
30
Is irrigation allowed in Madeira?
Yes, and it is widely practiced Rainwater is carried from the center of the island to vineyard areas by “levadas” — small irrigation channels With lower rainfall, irrigation is more required in the S of the island
31
When is harvest typically in Madeira?
Typically at end of Aug or start of Sept Decided by IVBAM in consultation w/ producers and growers
32
How are grapes typically harvested in Madeira?
Given Madeira’s typography, it is not surprising that much is done by hand
33
What is the min potential alcohol at harvest for wines of Madeira?
9% abv, although generally picked at levels with avg potential alcohol of no more than 11% abv
34
What is the max yield in Madeira ?
Max yield varies according to vintage conditions Yields as high as 150 hL/ha are not unusual (fertile soils, plentiful water)
35
What must happen to the grapes in Madeira upon arrival at the winery?
Grapes are checked for weight, health and potential alcohol (reps from IVBAM must be present) Grapes are then destemmed and crushed
36
Do Madeira wines typically have skin contact?
Use of skin contact depends on the producer Wines from Tinta Negra are often fermented on their skins, particularly for med-sweet styles Some producers have intro’d a period of skin contact for wines made from white grapes
37
What vessels are typically used for Madeira fermentation?
- Stainless steel
38
What yeast is typically used for Madeira?
Typically ambient yeast
39
When are Madeira wines typically fortified?
Timing of fortification will depend on the style of wine being produced Sweeter styles are fortified earlier in fermentation to retain more RS — these may ferment for as little as 2 days Drier styles may ferment for around a week
40
Describe the alcohol used to fortify Madeira
Must be 96% abv grape spirit (compared to 77% used in Port) Neutral in style Producers free to purchase from wherever they choose but must be checked by IVBAM for quality
41
What is the typical alcohol level of Madeira post-fortification?
- usually 17-18%
42
What will be done to Madeira wines prior to maturation?
Wines will be fined (bentonite, gelatin and albumin are commonly used Wines are usually filtered (diatomaceous earth) to clarify the wine Batches of wine will also be tasted and classified according to their style and quality — this will determine their maturation pathway
43
What are the two options for Madeira maturation? What are they meant to replicate? Which is considered to make the higher quality wine?
Estufagem and Canteiro are the two methods Meant to replicate the hot, oxidative conditions that the wine was subjected to when being shipped in the 17th and 18th centuries Canteiro is used for higher quality
44
Describe the key steps of Estufagem
Wine heated in SS vessels called estufas (stoves) to 45-50C (113-122F) w/ max of 50C/122F permitted (heating coil of water jacket used) Wine must remain in tank for min of 3 mo Reps from IVBAM seal the vessel at start of maturation and beak seal when maturation complete Tank sealed, but vessel typically not full to permit some oxidation Some of them allowed to cool Filtered then left to rest for 6-12 mo May not be sold until 31 Oct of 2nd year following harvest
45
What Madeira wines are typically produced using the Estufagem method?
Tends to be used for 3- to 5- year-old wines made from Tinta Negra
46
Describe the key steps of the Canteiro method
Wines matured in old oak vessels in warm environment (may be loft or warehouse heated by the sun) Vessels are usually 400-700L left w/ small headspace of air to aid oxidation Temps typically 25-40C/77-104F (not uncommon to have different warehouses in warmer and cooler areas, or simply warmer and cooler areas w/in the same warehouse) Younger wines typically stored in warmest conditions before being moved to cooler areas for extended aging High humidity but w/ warm conditions, evaporation still causes alcohol level to rise gradually to 19-20% abv Other compounds such as sugars, acidity and aromas concentrate VA increases Wines cannot be sold until 3 years after Jan 1 following harvest, and IVBAM must seal and unseal vessel (same as Estufagem) Further aging may be carried out, often in larger wooden vessels, SS vats or Demi-johns to limit further evaporation
47
How might a Madeira producer mitigate the costs of extended aging?
Beyond the min permitted times for estufagem and canteiro aging, producers may apply to IVBAM for an EU subsidy to offset the cost of aging their wine if they agree to age it for a further 5 years The subsidy depends on the volume in hectoliters IVBAM will seal the vessel and then unseal it after 5 years Producer can then request permission to check the wine and adjust as necessary, under supervision As the 5 year ends, producer can then apply for another 5 year subsidy
48
How does the maturation process affect the style of the final Madeira wine?
Oxidation causes color to gradually turn to brown Oxidation also causes primary aromas to develop into tertiary notes and dried fruit Warm aging conditions speed up oxidation and cause caramelization of the sugar Final wines have a range of flavors depending on the style, age and quality, including dried fruits such as apricot and raisin, caramel, chocolate, nuts and often a smoky character
49
Is most Madeira vintage or Non-vintage?
Most is NV
50
Is blending common in Madeira?
Yes — blending of different vintages and different vineyard locations for consistency of style YOY is standard practice in Madeira There is also variability amongst barrels in different areas of the warehouse so these can also be used to maintain consistency Blending can also be used to achieve a certain style or for complexity Additionally, wines made mainly in estufas can include some canteiro wine to bring greater complexity of flavors
51
What is done before bottling Madeira?
Adjustments can be made as necessary Fining and filtering before bottling Caramel is used in a # of inexpensive and mid-priced wines to add color (by comparison, carbon fining can be used to strip color) RCGM can be added to increase sweetness if needed Blending with some drier wine can be used to decrease sweetness
52
What are the factors that go into the labeling conventions of Madeira?
Defined labelling conventions for Madeira are usually based on: - Grape variety - Level of sweetness - Length of aging - Whether the wine is from a single vintage or multiple vintages
53
What are the sweetness levels used in labeling Madeira?
Extra dry Dry Medium dry Medium sweet (or Medium rich) Sweet (or rich) Note: even wines labelled as “dry” demonstrate some degree of sweetness, and there is also some overlap between categories (i.e., 1 producer’s “dry” may be another’s “medium dry”)
54
What is common to see on labels of Madeira, particularly premium priced wines?
Varietal labeling, where each variety is associated with a particular style
55
Describe the style of a wine that is labeled Sercial
Extra dry or dry Tend to be the lightest colored and bodied of the varietal wines Notes of citrus peel and nuts
56
Describe the style of a wine that is labeled Verdelho
Medium dry Usually has more RS and therefore more body and rounder texture than Sercial The slight sweetness also gives the impression of sweeter flavors such as candied fruits May be slightly darker in color than Sercial
57
Describe the style of a wine that is labeled Boal
Medium sweet Fuller and sweeter than Verdelho Darker in color Flavors of Caramel, chocolate and candied nuts
58
Describe the style of a wine that is labeled Malvasia
Sweet Aka Malmsey Tends to be full-bodied and often brown in color Sweetest style, but still balanced by refreshingly high acidity Can show notes of raisin and caramel
59
Describe the style of a wine that is labeled Terrantez
Medium dry or medium sweet Can have relatively high levels of sugar, there is always delicacy to them Aromas include citrus peel, caramel and sometimes even floral Mostly sold as Frasqueira or 20-year old
60
Describe the style of a wine that is labeled Tinta Negra
Since 2015, this can be varietally labeled and made at any level of sweetness
61
Does an indication of style — e.g., medium dry — have to appear on the label of varietally labeled Madeira?
No - varietal labeled Madeira does not have to include an indication of style (sweetness level)
62
As of 2015, what must all Madeira indicate on the label?
A bottling date
63
What are the possible age indications of Madeira? Are these vintage or NV?
Non-vintage products that may be labelled as 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 or “more than 50” years old The age is an indication of style rather than a minimum or average age Style is verified by IVBAM tasting panel Wines may also be labelled according to style and/or grape variety
64
What grape(s) is/are common in Madeira labeled as 5 year? What production method? Quality and price?
Tend to be predominantly Tinta Negra Most of the wine will be from the estufagem system Typically good to very good and mid-priced
65
What grape(s) is/are common for Madeira labeled as 10 year or older? What production method? Quality & price?
Often made with one of the white varieties (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malmsey/Malvasia, Terrantez) but some producers use Tinta Negra now that its name can appear on the label Wines will be made from parcels that have all been aged in the Canteiro system With increased time spent maturing the oldest wines tend to be increasingly concentrated and complex and have the highest levels of acidity Wines that are 20 years old or more will often be of outstanding quality and sell at premium and super-premium prices
66
For Madeira wines that do not qualify for an age-indication or another labeling term, how are these wines typically labeled? How long do they mature? How are they typically labeled?
Tend to be sold between 2-3 yr after harvest, and categorized as "corrente" by IVBAM Sometimes labeled with a brand name of the producer, such as Blandy's Duke of Clarence Some may simply use one of the style descriptions, for example Henriques & Henriques’ Full Rich Madeira
67
What does the term “Rainwater” indicate for Madeira?
Relatively light style in terms of alcohol, body and concentration of flavors Usually around 18% abv Must be medium dry Can only be associated with a max age indication of 10 years
68
Where does the term “Rainwater” come from?
It is thought to have originated when some casks awaiting shipment were left open outside and the rain diluted the wine
69
What is a “Frasqueira” labeled Madeira? What alias does it have? What rules apply?
aka Garrfeira Usually the flagship of a producer’s range Used for vintage Madeira that has been aged in wood for a min 20 years Must be made from a prescribed grape variety which must appear on the label together w/ the year of harvest and year of bottling Since 2015 the list of prescribed grapes has expanded to include Tinta Negra The quality must be assessed by IVBAM tasting panel
70
Describe the characteristics of a Frasqueira Madeira
Exact style will depend on the grape variety from which it is made Generally notable for their concentration and complexity of tertiary flavors with sweetness balanced by high acidity Typically command super premium prices
71
What is a “Colheita” Madeira?
A vintage Madeira coming from grapes of a single year that has been aged in wood for a min of 5 years May include a blend of varieties or be made from a single variety Grape does not have to appear on the label but the harvest year and year of bottling must be stated Quality must be assessed by IVBAM’s tasting panel
72
When was the term “Colheita” approved for use with Madeira?
- in 2000
73
How many Madeira growers are there? What is the average vineyard holdings?
Over 1,000 growers Average holdings of 0.3ha
74
How many Madeira producers are there?
The winemaking and maturation side of the industry is extremely consolidated with only 8 producers
75
What are the 3 largest Madeira producers?
Justino’s Madeira Wine Company Henriques & Henriques
76
Do producers typically own or rent vineyards? Do they tend to buy grapes?
Only 2 (of the 8 total) producers own or rent vineyards (Henriques & Henriques and Madeira Wine Company) and this only covers small %s of there production Therefore, all producers buy grapes A producer will often need to buy grapes from as many as a few hundred growers
77
What are the key responsibilities of the IVBAM? (6)
Coordinating and supporting the wine and embroidery(!) industries of Madeira Monitoring Madeira stocks and quality control Representatives must be present at grape reception and at the beginning and end of aging process to seal and unseal the maturation vessel Tasting panel and lab check of the profile of wines to be labeled w/ an age indication or vintage year Techs pay visits to growers to give advice and support Set regulations as part of the production and labeling of Madeira
78
What is the general sales trend of Madeira?
Sales have been relatively stable for the past few decades In 2019 sales were 3.2mm liters
79
What represents the majority of Madeira sales?
Young “Corrente” Madeira wines generally made from Tinta Negra (1.9 of the 3.2mm liters sold in 2019) 5- and then 10-year old Madeira are the most common age-indicated categories and account for the highest proportion of wines labeled as Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malmsey/Malvasia Most Terrantez is sold as Frasqueira or as 20-yr old wine. In 2019, Colheita and Frasqueira together made up just over 44k liters and these vintage products are generally more common than the older age-indicated categories of non-vintage madeiras (e.g., 20-, to 50-yr old)
80
What is the most common style of Terrantez Madeira?
Mostly sold as Frasqueira or 20-year old
81
What are the largest markets for Madeira?
France is largest (more inexpensive Madeira) Madeira itself, with the tourist trade making an important contribution (more expensive wines) Germany (more for inexpensive Madeira) Japan (more for expensive wines)
82
Describe Madeira that is used in cooking or confectionery?
Heated by the estufagem method and can be released for sale on 31 October of the year after harvest. May be modified with the addition of salt and sometimes pepper Makes up around 1/5 of the total volume sales of Madeira
83
What is the early history of the Island of Madeira?
Colonized shorty after 1420 by Portuguese discoverers and then by wealthy settlers who worked the land with their enslaved workers and other laborers. Large areas of forest were burnt to provide room for agriculture and increase the fertility of the soil. Terraces and irrigation channels were built. Initially sugar, what and vines were the main crops & exports, but sugar industry declined during the 16th century due to competition and wine became the main export.
84
Describe how the mountains of Madeira affect the climate / microclimates of the island
As a mountainous island, temps become cooler w/ altitude. The mountains, reaching up to 1800m, cause moist air in the humid winds arriving form the north to cool and condense into rainclouds, meaning that the N and Center of the island are considerably cooler and wetter (rainfall can exceed 3000mm/year in the center) than the south. A majority of the rain falls in AU and WI
85
What circumstances contribute to vine vigor in Madeira?
- Soils are volcanic and high in nutrients - plentiful rain These provide fertile conditions and therefore vigorous vine growth
86
What is Tinta Negra's classification within the Madeira classification scheme?
It was at one point categorized as "good" but now is in the "recommended" category alongside traditional varieties Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia and Terrantez (note: traditional scheme = noble, good, authorized; now = recommended and authorized)
87
What is the name used in Madeira for cordon-trained, VSP trellised vines?
Espaldeira
88
What are pergola training systems called in Madeira?
Latadas
89
What is/are the name(s) used for vintage Madeira that has been aged in wood a min of 20 years? What (other) rules apply?
Frasqueira or Garrafeira must be made from a prescribed grape variety that must appear on the label Must include vintage/harvest year as well as year of bottling

WSET Diploma D5 2022 (9 decks)

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