Physical Oceanography Flashcards
Standing Wave
Wave energy does not move forward
Label the wave
A. Crest, B. Trough, C. Wavelength, D. Wave height, E. Flat water
Shallow water wave vs deep water wave
Shallow: less than 1/2 height
Deep: more than 1/2 height
Things that cause tsunamis
Landslide, earthquake, hurricanes
Lunar Day
24 hours 50 minutes. Affects tides by time of low and high is different
Spring Tide
Highest highs and lowest lows. Sun, moon and earth in a straight line
Neap Tide
Lowest highs, and highest lows. Sun moon and earth at 90 degree angle
Western Boundary Current
Swift, narrow, warm, deep
Eastern Boundary Current
Slow, broad, cold, shallow
Northern Hemisphere
Southern Hemisphere
Clockwise
Counter clockwise
More dense water
Cold and salty
Immediate source of waves and currents
Wind
300 feet apart, “feels” bottom at
150 feet
Steps as a wave approaches shore
- Wave “feels” bottom
- Wave crest peaks
- Friction, causing pile up
- 1:7 ratio; height to length
- 3:4 ratio; height to depth
Primary Forces
Density, thermohaline circulation and wind