Perfumery (Part 01) Flashcards
It is defined by the FDA as the combination of chemicals that gives distinct scent. It described in the musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious scent accord.
Perfumery
Three (3) Sets of Notes of Perfumery
- Top Notes
- Middle Notes
- Base Notes
(T/F): Notes at the top of the pyramid have the higher volatility (they evaporate faster), while notes at the bottom are longer-lasting.
T
First notes perceived after applying the perfume. It consist of the most volatile compounds, which evaporate very quickly. The short-lived but strong and sharp. Introduced the wearer to the fragrance and serve as first impression.
Top Notes
Examples of Top Notes
- Citrus
- Light Fruits
- Bergamot
- Rose
- Basil
- Lavender
A main body of the perfume. They make up almost 70% of the total scent. As the name suggests, heart notes make up the “heart” of the fragrance. Their function is to retain some of the top notes’ aroma while also introducing new scents to deepen the experience. A buffer for the base notes, which may not smell as pleasant on their own. Scents under this note includes rose, lemon, nutmeg, jasmine, geranium, neroli and ylang-ylang as well as cinnamon, pepper, pine, lemongrass, black pepper and cardamom.
Middle Notes
A foundation of fragrance. A long-lasting aromas that usually form accords with the heart notes. It provides fragrance’s longevity and can usually last for hours. They help boost the lighter notes while adding more depth and resonance. They are very rich, heavy and long-lasting fragrance notes. They kick in after about 30 minutes and work together with the middle notes to create the fragrance’s scent.
Base Notes
Examples of Base Notes
- Sandalwood
- Vanilla
- Amber
- Musk
- Patchouli
- Cedarwood
Five (5) Classification of Perfumes (Based on Concentration of Fragrance and Duration of Lasting)
- Eau Fraiche (1% - 3% Oil)
- Eau de Cologne (3% - 5% Oil)
- Eau de Toilette (6% - 12% Oil)
- Eau de Parfum (13% - 20% Oil)
- Parfum (20% - 34% Oil)
A scented substance worn in the manner similar to perfumes and fragrances. The difference lies in its lower price, which is due to the percentage of essential oils it contains. The highest percentage is found in true perfume, which has about 22%. It can last for about 2 hours.
Eau Fraiche
Eau Fraiche means __________.
Fresh Water
Although the exact formula for original fragrance has remained secret for hundreds of years, it contains an alcohol concentration of approximately 3% - 5% and essential oils from lemon, orange, bergamot, tangerine, neroli, and grapefruit which can lasts for up to 2 hours. (e.g., Chanel).
Eau de Cologne
One notable person that uses Eau de Cologne.
George Washington
A toilet water. A lightly scented cologne that is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving. It has high alcohol content and lower percentage of fragrant oils than those found in ordinary perfume. This contains 5% - 15% of aromatic compounds and can lasts for up to 2 - 3 hours. (e.g., Versace Eros).
Eau de Toilette
One notable person that uses Eau de Toilette.
Marilyn Monroe
A perfume water. It contains more concentrated amount of the fragranced oils that defines scent. It should contain over 13% - 20% of essential oils and can last for up to 4 - 5 hours. (e.g., Santal 33).
Eau de Parfum
It is also known as “Extrait de Parfum” or “Pure Perfume”
Parfum
It has the highest fragrance concentration. It will contain anywhere from 15% to 40% fragrance however concentration is generally between 20% to 30% for most parfums. Of all scents, parfums last the longest; usually 6 to 8 hours. (e.g., Sauvage).
Parfum
(T/F): Men’s fragrances are usually Eau de Toilette (6% to 12%) strength.
T
Six (6) Classification of Perfumes
- Bright Floral
- Green
- Aquatic
- Citrus
- Fruity
- Gourmand
Fragrance from one or several flowers. (e.i., Estee Lauder’s Beautiful).
Bright Floral
Fragrance from cut grass or leaf. (i.e., Calvin Klein’s Eternity).
Green
A clean smell reminiscent of ocean. (e.g., Davidoff, Cool Water)
Aquatic
It has freshening effect. (i.e., Faberge Brut).
Citrus
Aromas of fruits other than citrus. (e.g., Ginestet, Botrytis).
Fruity
Scent with edible or desert like qualities. (i.e., Thierry Mugler’s Angel).
Gourmand
Eight (8) Plant Sources of Fragrance of Perfumes
- Bark
- Flowers
- Blossom
- Fruits
- Resins
- Roots
- Seed
- Wood
Five (5) Animal Sources of Fragrance of Perfumes
- Civet
- Honeycomb
- Deer Musk
- Ambergris
- Hyraceum
Six (6) Synthetic Sources of Fragrance of Perfumes
- Calone
- Terpenes
- Argumen
- Aldehyde
- Amber
- Amyris
Four (4) Manufacturing of Perfumes
- Collection
- Extraction
- Blending
- Aging
Before manufacturing process begins, the sources of suitable fragrances are collected in the manufacturing center.
Collection
Oils are extracted from plants and other substances by several methods like steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, and expression.
Extraction
Four (4) Types of Extraction
- Steam Distillation
- Solvent Extraction
- Enfleurage
- Expression
It is passed through plant materials held in still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, liquefied and collected.
Steam Distillation
The flower parts are dissolved in benzene or petrolatum that retains the fragrance of the flower. Alcohol is used to dissolve the fragrance and heated to obtain it after evaporation of alcohol.
Solvent Extraction
Flowers are kept in glass sheet with grease that absorb the fragrance of flowers.
Enfleurage
As one of the oldest forms of extraction. This process, often used for extracting citrus oils, involves pressing the plant, either mechanically or manually, until all of the oils are extracted.
Expression
Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to the formula determined by the master in the field, known as “nose”. After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. Most full perfumes are made of about 10% - 20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and trace of water.
Blending
High quality and pure perfumes are often aged for months or potentially even years after the scent has been blended. This is done to ensure that the proper scent has been created. Aging allows the different scents, or notes, to really blend together. Perfumes are made up of top notes that provide the scent with body as well as base notes which create an enduring fragrance.
Aging
Three (3) Composition of Perfumes
- Essential Oils
- Fixatives
- Solvents
It is derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and/or synthetic aromatic chemicals (e.g., Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, etc.).
Essential Oils
These are natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate (e.g., Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, etc.).
Fixatives
The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water.
Solvents
Five (5) Ingredients that can cause Allergic Reaction
- Acetone
- Ethyl Acetate
- Benzyl Alcohol
- Benzyl Benzoate
- Sandalwood
This requires good instrumentation such as capillary gas chromatography and possibly with coupled mass spectrometer. Also good manufacturing practice (GMP) in storage, production and finishing area is important.
Quality Control
Two (2) Types of Quality Control
- Thermal Stability
- Photosensitivity
Destruction of perfume molecules is proportionally related to increase in temperature. Accelerated storage test, as the measure of the stability of the product and its fragrance over the much longer period of its shelf life, in the much cooler environment of its storage and use.
Thermal Stability
It is frequently used during manufacture but the temperature must be closely controlled to maximize the efficiency of the process without causing decomposition of the product.
Heat
Sunlight and to the lesser extent the ordinary forms of artificial light, are in general harmful to aromatic materials, and perfumed products of all kinds, which must therefore be protected from light at all times.
Photosensitivity
Perfumes for these product categories need to be completely free from any possibility of irritant or sensitizing activity towards the skin, while imparting fresh and cleanly fragrance at levels sufficiently modest not to interfere with any personal perfume being used at the same time.
Deodorants and Antiperspirants
