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Consumer Chemistry Q3 > Perfume > Flashcards

Perfume Flashcards

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1
Q

the art of making perfumes

A

perfumery

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2
Q

The world’s first-recorded chemist is __

A

Tapputi

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3
Q

he introduced the process of distillation in extracting oils from flowers.

A

Ibn Sina

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4
Q

an arab chemist who wrote the book of the chemistry of perfumes

A

Al Kindi

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5
Q

The perfumed produced by the Hungarians as commanded by Queen Elizabeth is
known as ___

A

Hungary Water

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6
Q

___ was credited when France became the European center of perfume.

A

Rene the florentine

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7
Q

created the perfume water called Aqua Admirabilis.

A

Giovanni Paolo Feminis

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8
Q

Cultivation of ___ was a major industry in France in 14th century.

A

Flowers

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9
Q

were grown in France, Sicily and Italy in the 18th century

A

Aromatic Plants

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10
Q

Between 16th and 17th century, perfumes were used primarily by ___ to
mask body odor resulting to infrequent bathing.

A

Wealthy

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11
Q

Sweet and romantic

A

flower, floral

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12
Q

crisp and fresh

A

mountain air, oceanic

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13
Q

comforting and alluring

A

sugar and spice, spicy

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14
Q

natural or energetic

A

fresh leaves, green

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15
Q

masculine and classic appeal

A

bark and moss, woody

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16
Q

other name of al kindi

A

alkindus

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17
Q

other name of ibn sina

A

avicenna

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18
Q

As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases,

A

so does the intensity and
longevity of the scent created.

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19
Q

Perfume extract, or simply perfume

A

15-40% typical 20%

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20
Q

Esprit de Parfum (ESdP):

A

15-30%

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21
Q

Eau de Parfum (EdP), Parfum de Toilette (PdT):

A

10–20%

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22
Q

Eau de Toilette (EdT):

A

5–15% typical 10%

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23
Q

Perfume mist:

A

3–8%

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24
Q

Splash (EdS) and aftershave:

A

1–3%

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25
Q

most common solvent for perfume oil dilution

A

ethanol like brandy, cognac, pisco, rakia and rectified strips or a mixture of ethanol and water

26
Q

scents that are perceived immediately on application
of a perfume

A

Top notes / head notes

27
Q

emerges as soon as the first note i.e the top note submerges and is the body of the perfume and helps in masking or taping the unpleasant base note smell of perfume

A

Middle note / heart note

28
Q

emerge with the submergence of the heart notes and the main theme of a perfume

A

Base notes

29
Q

Fragrances that are dominated by a scent from one particular
flower;

A

Single Floral

30
Q

Is a combination of fragrance of several flowers in a perfume
compound.

A

Floral Bouquet:

31
Q

A large fragrance class featuring the sweet slightly animalic scents of ambergris
or labdanum, often combined with vanilla, tonka bean, flowers and woods.

A

Amber or “Oriental”:

32
Q

Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of agarwood,
Sandalwood and cedarwood.

A

Woody

33
Q

A family of fragrances which features the scents of honey, tobacco, wood and
wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather.

A

Leather

34
Q

Meaning Cyprus in French, this includes fragrances built on a similar accord
consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum.

A

Chypre

35
Q

Meaning Fern in French, built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss.

A

Fougere

36
Q

the traditional Single Floral & Floral Bouquet categories. and A good example would be Estée Lauder’s Beautiful

A

Bright floral

37
Q

a lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type,
with pronounced cut grass, crushed green leaf and cucumber-like scents

A

Green

38
Q

the newest category in perfume history, first appearing in 1988 Davidoff Cool

A

aquatic oceanic ozonic

39
Q

An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of “freshening” eau de colognes, due to the low tenacity of citrus scents.

A

Citrus

40
Q

featuring the aromas of fruits other than citrus, such as peach,
cassis (black currant), mango, passion fruit, and others.

A

fruity

41
Q

scents with “edible” or “dessert”-like qualities.

A

Gourmand

42
Q

The method was created in 1983 by Michael Edwards, a consultant in the perfume
industry, who designed his own scheme of fragrance classification.

A

Fragrance Wheel

43
Q

Created the fragrance wheel

A

Michael Edwards

44
Q

traditionally classified as a “Floral Aldehyde” would be located
under Soft Floral sub-group, and “Amber” scents would be placed within the Oriental group.

A

Chanel No.5

45
Q

fragrant oil in cinnamon and cascarilla.

sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent,

A

bark

46
Q

rose and jasmine, osmanthus, plumeria, mimosa, tuberose, narcissus, scented geranium, cassie, ambrette , citrus and ylang-ylang trees.

A

Flowers and blossoms

47
Q

apples, strawberries, cherries , blackcurrant leaf, litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper
berry.

A

Fruits:

48
Q

The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in
the modern perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic
compounds.

A

Maceration

49
Q

Two ways of maceration

A

supercritical fluid extration and ethanol extraction

50
Q

A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such
as orange blossoms and roses. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected
through condensation of the distilled vapor.

A

Distillation

51
Q

Three ways of distillation

A

Steam, dry, fractionation

52
Q

Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their
volatile fragrant compounds.

A

steam distillation

53
Q

The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as
water.

A

Dry distillation

54
Q

Through the use of a fractionation column, different fractions distilled from a material can be selectively excluded to modify the scent of the final product.

A

Fractionation

55
Q

Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected.

A

Expression

56
Q

Absorption of aroma materials into solid fat or wax and then extraction of odorous oils with ethyl alcohol.

A

Enfleurage

57
Q

Can consist of one or a few main ingredients for a certain concept, such as “rose”.

A

Primary scents

58
Q

These ingredients alter the primary scent to give the perfume a certain desired
character: fruit esters may be included in a floral primary to create a fruity floral; calone and citrus scents can be added to create a “fresher” floral.

A

modifiers

59
Q

A large group of ingredients that smooth out the transitions of a perfume between
different “layers” or bases. They themselves can be used as a major component of
the primary scent.

A

blenders

60
Q

Used to support the primary scent by bolstering it. Many resins, wood scents, and amber bases are used as fixatives.

A

fixatives

61
Q
A

Consumer Chemistry Q3 (3 decks)

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