Part 2: Climbing Fundamentals

Question 1

Define rappelling

Answer 1

The technique of descending an anchored rope by using friction to safely control the rate of descent.

Question 2

The technique of descending an anchored rope by using friction to safely control the rate of descent is called

Answer 2

Rappelling

Question 3

What are the top 3 causes of rappelling accidents

Answer 3

1) uneven rope lengths
2) inadequate anchoring systems
3) an inadequate rappel backup

Question 4

Name the 4 basic elements of a rappel system

Answer 4

1) an anchor
2) a rope
3) a rappel method for applying friction to the rope
4) the person rappelling

Question 5

Define a rappel anchor

Answer 5

The point on the rock or mountain to which the rest of the system is attched

Question 6

The point on the rock or mountain to which the rest of the system is attached is called…

Answer 6

The rappel anchor

Question 7

How do you determine if you will need 1 or 2 ropes for a rappel?

Answer 7

If the rappel is shorter then half a rope length you can use just 1 rope

Question 8

Name the 2 types of rappelling method?

Answer 8

1) mechanical: the rope passes through a friction device attched to the harness
2) non-mechanical: the rope is wrapped around the rappellers body to provide the necessary friction

Question 9

Mechanical and non-mechanical describe the 2 methods of _______

Answer 9

Rappeling methods

Question 10

List a few circumstances that could reduce the friction in a rappeling system

Answer 10

• New rope
• small diameter rope
• stiff rope
• icy conditions
• heavier then usual loads such as gear or backpacks

Question 11

What risks should you consider when setting an anchor?

Answer 11

1) Distance to the edge, as close as safely possible allows the longest rope length
2) the route from the anchor location to the ground
3) Sharp edges
4) cracks or other features that might snag the rope on retrieval
5) Environmental; ropes cutting into snow and ice can freeze inplace

Question 12

When considering an established rappel station as an anchor what are a few warning signs that it may be unsafe?

Answer 12

• Slings with significant wear, damage, nicks, etcetera,should be considered unsafe and removed.
• Slings that are bleached or washed-out in color and have a dry, stiff feel exhibit evidence of damage
• Inspecting the entire length of slings routed around large boulders may often be difficult since sections of the slings may be hidden. Do not trust existing
  slings unless the entire length can be inspected.
• Slings not equipped with a rappel ring or carabiner may no longer be safe because rappel ropes have been pulled through them on previous rappels, which generates friction capable of melting and
  weakening the sling.
• Sometimes so many slings compose an anchor that total failure of every sling is unlikely. Still, a prudent rappeller might cut out a few of the oldest
  slings and add a new one before attaching the rope.
• If using more than one sling, make them of equal length to help distribute the load and avoid shock-loading the rappel system should one fail.

Question 13

When using more then one rappelling sling they should be of equal or different lengths?

Answer 13

Equal lengths to avoid shock loading the rappel system incase of a single sling failure

Question 14

The “V” angle created when using two anchor points should be wide or narrow? Why?

Answer 14

Narrow, too wide an anchor angle and the load on each anchor point increases significantly

Question 15

Define SERENE

Answer 15

Solid
Efficient
Redundant
Equalized
with
No Extensions

Question 16

A fundamental technique for climbing safely ________ is a system of using a rope to stop a fall if one should occur.

Answer 16

Belaying

Question 17

What 3 things are necessary to make a belaying system work?

Answer 17

1) a method of applying and amplifying a stopping force to the rope
2) an anchor strong enough to resist the pull of the fall
3) a skilled belayer

Question 18

Describe a slingshot top rope belay

Answer 18

Typically found on single pitch route such as the ones you find at a climbing gym etc. Anchored at the top of the route the belayer belays at the bottom of the route.

Question 19

What type of belay is pictured?

Answer 19

Slingshot top-rope belay

Question 20

What type of belay is pictured?

Answer 20

Lead belay

Question 21

What is the difference between slingshot top-rope belay and a lead belay?

Answer 21

In a lead belay the climber is leading the route, placing protection as they climb.

Slingshot top-rope belays rely on an existing anchor above the climber.

Question 22

Why is the force generated in a fall different between a lead belay and a slingshot top rope belay?

Answer 22

In a lead belay the force of the fall, and thus the force transferred to the belay, is dependent on the distance from the last anchor point when the climber falls.

Question 23

Why would you use a dynamic rope when lead climbing?

Answer 23

Dynamic ropes stretch to limit the amount of force on the system and the climber. That limits strain on the anchor, the climber and the belaying partner.

Question 24

Define hip belay

Answer 24

The hip belay—also called the body belay—is a belay method in which the rope is wrapped around the belayer’s body to generate enough friction to stop a climber’s fall.

Question 25

When would you use a munter hitch?

Answer 25

Anytime you need to add friction

A munter hitch is a good alternative to a belay device if your is lost or unavailable

Question 26

Name a pro of using a munter hitch

Answer 26

• No specific equipment needed
• equal braking pressure in all positions
• if the climber takes a fall the munter will catch if you sre applying pressure with your breaking hand

Question 27

What is the difference between static and self equalization when discussing anchor points?

Answer 27

Static equalization distributes the load in only one direction. Self-equalization distributes the load in a range of directions.

Question 28

A simple yet highly effective set of principles to follow when evaluating anchor systems goes by the acronym _______.

Answer 28

A simple yet highly effective set of principles to follow when evaluating anchor systems goes by the acronym SERENE.

Question 29

Define rappelling

Answer 29

rappelling is the technique of descending an anchored rope by using friction to safely control the rate of descent.

Question 30

Why is rappelling often more dangerous then belaying?

Answer 30

It is a primary safety system, If any element of the rappelling system fails the results are likely to be catastrophic. Unlike the belay system, which is a secondary safety system—it is called upon only if a fall occurs—the rappel system is the primary fall restraint system, necessarily called upon to absorb the forces exerted by the rappel the entire time it is in use.

Question 31

What are the top three AVOIDABLE causes of rappelling accidents?

Answer 31

(1) uneven rope lengths
(2) an inadequate anchor system
(3) an inadequate rappel backup.

Question 32

What are the four basic elements of a rappel system?

Answer 32

• an anchor
• a rope
• a rappel method for applying friction to the rope
• the person rappelling