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ISIPCA > Olfactory > Flashcards

Olfactory Flashcards

1
Q

Rose

A

For natural:
family: floral
aspect: spicy, fruity, citrus
extraction: distillation of petals
place of origin: Syria, Bulgaria turkey
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: it’s an allergen specifically
Volatility: Heart
Uses: find fragrances only
Price: $$$$$
Important comments: critonnellol 30 to 40%, geraniol 10 to 20%, neroli 10%, PEA 2%

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2
Q

Maltol

A

For synthetic:
family: pyrogenated
commercial name: maltol
Other name: veltol
aspect: white powder
uses: fine or functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: heart and base
Some remarks: sugary, goumard, caramel, cotton candy
Artificial/nature id: pine needles, beach wood, licorice, root synthétises when malt is roasted
name of molecule: pyrane

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3
Q

Exaltolide

A

For synthetic:
family: Musk
commercial name: macrolide
Other name:
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine
IFRA: restricted
Allergen:
Volatility: base
Some remarks: clean, white floral powdery
Artificial/nature id: ambiette seed absolute and angelic root
name of molecule: macrocyclic musk

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4
Q

Neroli Oil

A

For natural:
family: orange flower
aspect: citrus green spicy bold tone
extraction: distilled in March or April
place of origin: Tunisia, Morocco, Italy, Egypt, Central America
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: geraniol, limonen D
Volatility: Head/Heart
Uses: find fragrances only
Price: $$$$$
Important remarks: linalol 40 to 45% d limonen 10 to 15% linalyl acetate 7% Indio 0.3% methyl anthranylate 1%

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5
Q

Lemon oil

A

For natural:
family: citraly
aspect: zesty, acidic and sweet
extraction: cold extraction
place of origin: mediterranean, Sicily, USA
IFRA: limited
Allergen: it’s an allergen specifically
Volatility: Head
Uses: fine and functional
Price: $
Important comments: solubility issues in alcohol

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6
Q

Basilic (methyl chavicol) oil

A

For natural:
family: Amish
aspect: green spicy clove astringent
extraction: distillation of whole plant
place of origin: India cultivated in Egypt and Vietnam
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: it’s an allergen specifically
Volatility: Head
Uses: fine fragrances only
Price: $$$
Important comments: contains estragon which is methyl chavicol 80% eugenol, 0.5%

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7
Q

Hedione

A

For synthetic:
family: floral
commercial name: methyl dihydrojasmate
Other name:
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: heart
Some remarks: fresh airy white floral
Artificial/nature id: in Jasmine absolute and tea
name of molecule: ester

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8
Q

Eugenol

A

For synthetic:
family: Spicy
commercial name: Eugenol spice
Other name:
aspect: pale, rose liquid
uses: fine functional
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: yes
Volatility: heart
Some remarks: warm woody Christmas
Artificial/nature id: 85% in clove bud oil
name of molecule: alcohol

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9
Q

Patchouli oil

A

For natural:
family: mossy mold
aspect: earthy wood cauphor
extraction: steam distilled
place of origin: Indonesia
IFRA:
Allergen: Eugenol
Volatility: base
Uses: fine fragrances only
Price: $$$$
Important remarks: part of Chypre scheme*

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10
Q

Virginia Cedarwood oil

A

For natural:
family: wood
aspect: smoky, earthy, spicy
extraction: distillation of wood chips
place of origin: North Carolina, Virginia
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: it is an allergen
Volatility: base
Uses: fine and the functional fragrances only
Price: $$
Important remarks: contains 25% cedar acetate

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11
Q

Ylang ylang

A

For natural:
family: floral
aspect: white floral, spicy clove, and powdery
extraction: distillation of flowers
place of origin: Madagascar comares
IFRA: limited
Allergen: yes
Volatility: Heart
Uses: fine fragrances only
Price: $$$$
Important remarks: contains benzyl, acetate, 20% methyl para crésol linalol

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12
Q

Triplal

A

For synthetic:
family: green
commercial name: Triplal
Other name: cycial, vertocitral
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA: restricted
Allergen:
Volatility: head
Some remarks: apple, grassy, solvent
Artificial/nature id: can form a schiff base
name of molecule: aldehyde

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13
Q

Coumarin

A

For synthetic:
family: coumarinic
commercial name: coumarin
Other name: 1,2 benzopyrone
aspect: white solid
uses: fine and functional (banned in flavor due to blood clots
IFRA: yes
Allergen: yes
Volatility: base
Some remarks: amber, almond, powdery
Artificial/nature id: tonka bean, hay, liatrix
name of molecule: lactone

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14
Q

Lauric aldehyde

A

For synthetic:
family: citrus
commercial name: orange aldehydic
Other name: dodecanal or lauric C12 aldehyde
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: heart
Some remarks: soapy coriander metallic
Artificial/nature id: coriander oil, citrus, ginger
name of molecule: aliphatic acid

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15
Q

Vanillic

A

For synthetic:
family: balsamic vanillic
commercial name: vanillic
Other name: 4 hydroxy 3 methoxybenzaldehyde
aspect: white powder
uses: fine and functional used in food industry specifically Oreo
IFRA:
Allergen: yes
Volatility: base
Some remarks: sweet powdery milky
Artificial/nature id: in vanilla
name of molecule: aldehyde

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16
Q

Isoraldeine 95

A

For synthetic:
Family: floral
commercial name: isoraldeine 95
Other name: alpha isomethylione
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: yes
Volatility: heart
Some remarks: violet, powdery, fruity, berries, woody
Artificial/nature id: violet (cannot distill fragrance)
name of molecule: artificial molecule

17
Q

Lavender oil

A

For natural:
family: agest
aspect: fresh herbal aromatic
extraction: distillation in August or sept
place of origin: south of France
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: yes
Volatility: head/Heart
Uses: fine fragrances only
Price: $$$
Important remarks: unstable because of ester turning acids

18
Q

Hexyl acetate

A

For synthetic:
Family: fruity
commercial name: hexyl acetate
Other name: hexyl ethanoate
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: head
Some remarks: juicy, apple, pear, solvent
Artificial/nature id: can be isolated from lavender essential oil; present in many fruits
name of molecule: ester

19
Q

Calone

A

For synthetic:
Family: marine
commercial name: calone
Other name:
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: heart and base
Some remarks: cucumber, ozonic, green, fruity, melon
Artificial/nature id: perception threshold very low
name of molecule: ketone

20
Q

Ambroxan

A

For synthetic:
Family: a very
commercial name: ambroxan
Other name: ambrofix, **Ambroxide cristal
aspect: white solid
uses: fine
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: base
Some remarks: powdery, mineral , woody
Artificial/nature id: in grey amber
name of molecule:

21
Q

PEA

A

For synthetic:
Family: Rosy
commercial name: PEA
Other name: phenyl ethyl alcohol
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: heart
Some remarks: almond, honey, plastic, powdery
Artificial/nature id: in rose 40-70% in damascena
name of molecule: alcohol

22
Q

Bourgeonal

A

For synthetic:
Family: floral
commercial name: Bourgeonal
Other name: burgenal, lilional
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA: limited at 0.47% in cat 4
Allergen:
Volatility: heart
Some remarks: watery, paper, metallic, marine
Artificial/nature id: can form a schiff base
name of molecule: aldehyde

23
Q

Citronellol Cœur

A

For synthetic:
Family: rosy
commercial name: Citronellol cœur
Other name:
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine
IFRA: restricted
Allergen: yes
Volatility: heart
Some remarks: lemongrass mosquito fresh lychee, citronella
Artificial/nature id: rose and geranium
name of molecule: alcohol

24
Q

Benzyl Acetate

A

For synthetic:
Family: floral
commercial name: benzyl acetate
Other name:
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: head
Some remarks: solvent, fruity, banana, nail polish remover
Artificial/nature id: found in Jasmine 22 to 35% Jasmine absolute also in Yang Yang oils can be extracted from these naturals
name of molecule: ester

25
Q

Iso E Super

A

For synthetic:
Family: woody
commercial name: Iso E super
Other name: isocyclemone ethanone superior
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA: restricted
Allergen:
Volatility: base
Some remarks: Violet, clean Ambry
Artificial/nature id: stable in EDT
name of molecule: ketone

26
Q

Vertiofix

A

For synthetic:
Family: woody
commercial name: Vertofix
Other name: methyl cedryl ketone
aspect: colorless liquid
uses: fine and functional
IFRA:
Allergen:
Volatility: base
Some remarks: smoky powdery, Virginia, Cedarwood
Artificial/nature id: stable in many base
name of molecule: ketone

ISIPCA (9 decks)

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