Hydrophilic Raw Materials -Humectants Flashcards
Glycerin
-discovered in 1779 from hydrolyzed olive oil
-alcohol propane-1,2,3-triol is clear. colorless, odorless, syrupy, and hygroscopic
-it is miscible in water, alcohol
-insoluble in ether and chloroform
-glycerin not only attract water but prevents crystallizartion
Butylene glycol
-is usually means 1,3 butanediol
-clear and colorless
-is considered safe by the cosmetic ingredient
-reported to be less irritating of propylene glycol
Propylene glycol
-colorless and clear
-clinical date shown skin irritation and sensitization reactions at concentration as low as 10%
Sorbitol
-is an hexahydric alcohol, white crystalline powder, odorless, and fresh and sweet taste
-it occurs naturally in fruit and vegetable
- prepares commercial by the reduction of glucose
-commonly in aqueous solution; it is practically insoluble in organic solvent
D-panthenol
-is a liquid alcohol clear, colorless, odorless, and hygroscopic
-it is miscible in water, alcohol, glycerol
-insoluble in fats and oils
-topically applied penetrates the skin and can accelerate the skin barrier and SC hydration
-has very low toxicity and is considered safe to use in cosmetics
the substance that make up NMF: Natural Moisturizing factor
40% free amino acids
12% pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA)
12% lactates
7% Urea
2% lactic acid
minimal salts
NMF: Natural Moisturizing factor
-the special blends of humectants found in the stratum corneum (SC)
-can make up about 10% of the dry weight of the SC cells
Urea
-is a white crystalline powder, odorless, colorless
-soluble in water
-a physiological substance occurring in human tissues, the amount is of order 2% in urine
PCA and salts if PCA
-PCA is the cosmetic ingredient terms used for the cyclic compound: 2-pyrrolidione 5 carboxylic acid
-the āLā form of the sodium sald is humectant in the SC at level about 12%
Calcium Chloride (inorganic)
-are quite efficient
-fail badly on corrosion and compatibility
-they find limited use in cosmetic
Sodium Lactate (metal-organic)
-which is greater hygroscopic power than glycerin
-however, it is incompatible with some raw materials has a pronounced taste and may discolor