NH - Unit 2 - Vineyard management - site preparation Flashcards

1
Q

What are the 3 major steps in site preparation?

A
  • disinfection
  • cultivation
  • fertilisation
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2
Q

How do you start with preparing the soil for a vineyard?

A
  • remove existing vegetation, large stones, former vines, trees etc.
    • uproot trees rather than cut down
      • roots may harbour fungal diseases
      • gather and burn roots on the spot
  • kill troublesome weeds (e.g. with non-residual herbicide)
  • Fix dips in water
  • Assess risk of erosion
  • sometimes break up subsoil
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3
Q

Why and how can you fix dips in water when preparing the soil ?

A
  • Can cause root asphyxiation and problems when passing machinery
  • remover topsoil, level the subsoil, replace topsoil
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4
Q

What steps should one take when there is risk of erosion?

A
  • plant trees or dig ditches above the field
  • establish paths with ditches or surface guttering across the field
  • plant along the contours
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5
Q

Why and how should one break up the subsoil?

A
  • at depths of 50 - 100 cm
  • Can improve drainage
  • can improve the depth of rooting of the young vines
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6
Q

Why are soil tests prior to planting vital?

A
  • Any soil nutrient deficiencies must be corrected.
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7
Q

Why should there not be a need to add nitrogen?

A
  • It will leach out before plants can reach it?
  • May lead to over-vigourous growth in the young plant
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8
Q

To what level is organic matter normally raised, how and why?

A
  • above 2%
  • by adding farmyard manure
  • to improve structure and add to the humus content
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9
Q

To what level is the PH normally raised, how

A
  • Above 6,5 %
  • using calcite (calcium carbonate), magnesite (magnesium carbonate) or dolomite (a mixture of both)
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10
Q

How does one improve the structure and why?

A
  • By using Gypsum (CaSO4)
  • It reduces the dispersion of surface soils
  • It minimises the swelling of sub-surface soils
    • improving the permeability and aeration
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11
Q

At what depth and why are vineyard sites often ploughed?

When is it best done? Why?

A
  • A depth of 20 to 60 cm
  • to bury the existing vegetation
  • to incorporate fertilisers
  • to increase aeration and drainage
  • exposes remaining large roots which can be removed

Best done in autumn to benefit from freeze-thawing action during subsequent winter.

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12
Q

How can you kill the (fan-leaf carrying) nematodes ?

A
  • desinfection
  • or leave the soil fallow for 5 - 8 years (only required in vinegrowing areas with a history of viral and nematode problems
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13
Q

How and why is the tilth finally produced (akker)?

A
  • By using a power harrow, spader or rotary cultivator
  • to produce a medium-fine tilth at a depth of 200 - 300 mm
  • makes planting easier by loosening and levelling the soil
  • It destroys any weeds that have grown on the surface
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14
Q

Is cultivation done on dry or wet soil?

A

Dry soil

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15
Q

Explain the planning and preparation of planting vines

A
  • Summer year 1 : Remove existing vegetation (optional : plant external windbreaks, levelling, terracing, sub-soiling, install drainage, soil disinfection)
  • Autumn : Corrective fertilisation / Deep ploughing
  • Spring year 2 : Deep cultivation / Tracing out the plantation / Planting
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16
Q

Natural drainage ensures that water is distributed in several ways :

A
  • runs off surface
  • taken up by plant roots
  • absorbed into pores in the soil particles
  • evaporates from the soil surface
  • drains down through the soil
17
Q

What are the most important control methods of drainage?

A
  • improving soil structure by the addition of farmyard manure, organic matter, sand, grit, lime
  • ditches
  • drainage pipes
  • mole drainage
  • sub-soiling
18
Q

Explain the drainage method : ditching

A

These are the cheapest method of putting in artificial drainage (ditches and their outfalls need to be maintained every few years)

19
Q

Explain mole drainage

A
  • This is a cheap method
  • usually used on field with clay subsoil (no stones)
  • Mole ploughs have a torpedo or bullet shaped “mole” attached to a steel coulter (vertical cutting blade) and form a cylindrical channel in the subsoil
20
Q

Explain the drainage method : subsoiling

A
  • it mechanically bursts the soil
  • it artificially creates the passages which enable the free movement of water and air
  • it allows root systems to fully develop
21
Q

Explain the drainage method : draining pipes

A
  • Perforated plastic pipes are more common than clay ones
  • Distance between drains depends on soil type
  • Positioning of the drains depends
    • upon the slope of the field
    • the occurrence of springs and wet patches
22
Q

When should terracing be considered?

What is the drawback?

A
  • If the slope is above 20%
  • Expensive operation => retaining walls made of grass of stone must be established
23
Q

When do you plant the rooted cuttings?

A
  • as early as possible
  • wait until spring frost risks are over
  • ground must be effectively prepared
24
Q

What do you do if plants are delivered before they are due to be planted?

A
  • must be protected from drying out
    • keep them in a dark cool place
    • in the plastic bags in which they were delivered
    • in buckets of water
25
Q

Till when can you plant potted plants?

A

As late as July

26
Q

Steps for planting by hand

A
  • the plantation must be traced out carefully to ensure vine rows are straight and evenly spaced.
  • After cultivation, plant the supporting stakes.
    • hole must be deep enough to hold graft union out of the soil
  • The plant’s roots may need trimmed to fit the hole.
  • The plant should be placed securely against the stake
  • fine earth placed around its roots.
  • watering-in is recommended, particularly for potted plants
27
Q

How does machine planting proceed?

A
  • planting machines are usually tractor-trailed
  • often laser-guided so the rows are straight
  • Succes is more dependent on the quality of the soil preparation than hand-planting
28
Q

What is plastic mulching? How does planting proceed?

A
  • for controlling weeds, to maintain higher moisture levels and promote faster root development.
  • vines are planted without supporting stakes
  • a film of plastic about 1 m in width is unrolled using a trailed implement that buries 200 mm on each side to a depth of 150 mm.
  • holes are then cut in the plastic to allow the vines to poke trough
  • Canes or stakes are planted next to the plants
29
Q

What are the advantages of plastic mulching

A
  • young plants do not suffer from drought, even in dry summers
  • there is no weed competition, so no under-row weed control is required
  • soil structure under the row is maintained
  • soil temperature is increased, which increases microbial activity

=> young plants grow much faster and can gain a year in growth

30
Q

What are the disadvantages of plastic mulching

A
  • the initial expense of plastic and hire of machine
  • increased frost risk ,as plants grow earlier & faster
  • weeds develop at the base of the plant that are difficult to control
  • the plastic harbours slugs, mice and snakes
  • the eventual removal of the plastic is arduous and its disposal difficult
  • it promotes superficial rooting. Roots are restricted to the suface level of the soil where they are most vulnerable to drought
31
Q

What other measures can be taken with new plants?

A
  • the use of tree guards
    • rigid grow tubes
    • polythene sleeves
  • placed on the plant after plantation
  • secured to the supporting stake
  • will increase the growth rate dramatically
  • leading to an earlier crop by reducing drought stress
  • protecting the vines from herbicides, rabbits, deer
32
Q

What involves the care of young plantations?

A
  • watering-particularly important for potted vines
  • weed control, as weeds compete for water and soil space. Care must be taken in herbicide selection and application
  • protection from rabbits (plastic netted sleeves)
  • protection from slug and snails (slug pellets)
  • wind protection (temporary wind breaks)
  • disease protection (against late season attacks of powdery mildew)
  • tying up and summer pruning (remove any flowers and shoots from rootstock and roots from scions
  • replacing any unsuccessful vines (order and pot few extra vines for replacement)

!! twice as much time is spent on young plantations than on established vines!!