Midterm

Question 1

Functional Ingredients

Answer 1

Do not affect the appearance of the skin but are necessary to the product formulation. They can act as vehicles that allow products to spread, give products body and texture, and give products form; lotion, cream, or gel. Common functional ingredients: water, emollients, surfactants, delivery systems, preservatives, fragrances, color agents, thickeners, pH adjusters, solvents.

Question 2

Performance Ingredients

Answer 2

Cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin. Sometimes referred to as active ingredients. Active ingredient is an official term used in the drug industry to indicate ingredients that chemically cause **physiological changes.

Question 3

Products that do not contain any water are

Answer 3

called anhydrous.

These include oil-based serums, silicone serums, and petrolatum-based products such as lip balms. In addition, aloe vera is often used instead of water as a vehicle in product formulations.

Question 4

Effleurage

Answer 4

to soothe and relax nerves of the skin, beginning and end of massage

Question 5

Petrissage

Answer 5

needing and squeezing, deeply stimulates muscles, nerves and glands

Question 6

Tapotement

Answer 6

increases blood circulation, tapping

Question 7

Friction

Answer 7

warms the muscles, Cris-cross motion

Question 8

Vibration

Answer 8

very stimulating to the skin, only use for a few seconds in one spot

Question 9

how long is a full European massage

Answer 9

20 minutes

Question 10

examples of specialized massage techniques

Answer 10

Acupressure: Massage technique derived from Chinese medicine. Consists of applying pressure to specific points of the face and body (acupressure points) to release muscle tension, restore balance, and stimulate chi (life force; energy).

Shiatsu: A form of acupressure; the Japanese technique of using acupressure massage points to relax and balance the body. Many motor points on the face and neck are acupressure points. The standard pressure point technique is to pause briefly for a few seconds over the motor points using light pressure. It is also used on the scalp.

Pressure point massage: Similar to acupressure. On each point, movement is repeated three to six times with a three- to six-second pause on each point. Move point to point from the top to the bottom of the face using light inward pressure at each point and lifting to slide to next point.

Aromatherapy: Uses essential oils mixed with an emulsion or oil and applied to skin during massage movements; oils promote mental relaxation and treat skin in numerous ways.

Manual lymph drainage (MLD): Uses gentle, rhythmic pressure on the lymphatic system to detoxify and remove waste materials more quickly. It reduces swelling; used before and after surgery. It is a very light touch.

Question 11

What is the definition of massage

Answer 11

Massage is a manual or mechanical manipulation achieved by rubbing, kneading, or other methods that stimulate metabolism and circulation.

Question 12

what is an aestheticians scope of practice regarding areas of the body to massage

Answer 12

An esthetician’s massage services are commonly limited to certain areas of the body (e.g., face, neck, shoulders, décolleté), depending on your state’s scope of practice.

Therapeutic massage (deep tissue and manual lymph drainage) should be performed by licensed massage therapists who specialize in these areas.

Many body treatments such as back facials or wraps are performed by the esthetician without massage, only the application of products.

Question 13

massage contraindications

Answer 13

Massage contraindications include contagious diseases; inflamed acne; sunburn, windburn, irritation, severe redness; sensitive skin; open lesions, cuts, sores, abrasions; skin disorders; severe, uncontrolled hypertension; and *uncontrolled diabetes.

Question 14

what is the difference between cosmetics and drugs?

what are COSMECEUTICALS

Answer 14

cosmetics improve appearance, drugs CAUSE ACTUAL PHYSIOLOGICAL CHANGES

The term **cosmeceutical has no meaning under the law. The professional skin care industry created this term as a bridge between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, or drugs.
It can be used in many ways, but in general refers to professional skin care products and makeup that include pharmaceutical-grade ingredients. This pertains to higher concentrations, grade, and purity of active agents.

Question 15

FDA regulations for cosmetic labeling

Answer 15

State that cosmetic companies must list the company’s name, location, or distribution point as well as all the ingredients in the product.
Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, starting with the ingredient having the highest concentration and ending with the ingredient having the lowest concentration.
A fragrance must be listed as fragrance, but the particular ingredients used for the fragrance need not be listed.

FDA requires that all cosmetic labels include a list of ingredients using standardized INCI names for each ingredient. INCI is an acronym for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient and the names are allocated by the American Cosmetic Association, Personal Care Products Council and are used internationally. The adoption of INCI names ensures that cosmetic ingredients are consistently listed, using the same ingredient name from product to product, which allows customers to easily compare products.

Question 16

Difference between irritant and allergen

Answer 16

In general, symptoms of an irritant reaction include burning, while itching is usually a sign of an allergic reaction. Additional symptoms: inflammation of the skin, blisters, hives, or rashes. The eyes may swell, puff, or produce tears.

Question 17

Name the sources that cosmetic ingredients can be derived from.

Answer 17

Natural sources, including plants, vitamins, or animals. Ingredients can also be synthesized in a lab using chemical compounds.

Question 18

What is the difference between noncomedogenic and comedogenic ingredients?

Answer 18

Noncomedogenic ingredients will not clog pores. Comedogenic ingredients tend to clog pores.

Question 19

What has to be done to a product formulation in order for it to be labeled unscented?

Answer 19

More ingredients have to be added to mask and neutralize the natural smell

Question 20

water

Answer 20

performance and functional

-vehicle, solvent

Question 21

emollients

Answer 21

Functional and/or Performance Ingredients

Purpose:
As a functional ingredient, help place, spread, and keep other substances on the skin.

As a performance ingredient, lubricate the skin’s surface and guard the barrier function. Emollients in products are one of the most common performance ingredients. They are made of lipids (substances such as fat, oil, or wax), both natural and synthetic. They lie on top of the skin and prevent dehydration. Emollients may be very rich or light in consistency.

Types of Emollients
Oils: When formulated into cosmetics, vary in density, fat content, and heaviness; come from different sources, two most common:
Mineral sources: Oils from the earth; come from highly refined and purified petroleum sources. Nonreactive and biologically inert; can be used with no added preservatives. Examples: liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum.
Botanical sources: Oils from plants; vary in fatty acid content and heaviness. Examples: coconut oil and palm oil (two of the fattiest and heaviest oils), argan oil and hemp seed oil (light, less comedogenic).
Silicones: Group of oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin. Also act as vehicles in some products. Excellent protectants. Add a silky, non-greasy feel to products. Examples: cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone.

Question 22

difference between
fatty acids
fatty alcohols
fatty esters

Answer 22

Fatty acids: Lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats; non-irritating; more like oils. Examples: caprylic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid.

Fatty alcohols: Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen; not drying; wax-like consistency. Examples: cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol.

Fatty esters: Produced from combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols; easily recognized on labels because they almost always end in -ate; often feel better than natural oils and lubricate more evenly. Examples: glyceryl stearate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate.

DID YOU KNOW? Botanical oils vary in fatty acid content and heaviness. Many estheticians refer to comedogenic ratings to guide them in selecting botanical oils for certain skin types. There are a few rating scales available on the Internet, which may differ slightly because they are often updated. Use Table 6–2 to compare comedogenic ratings of common oils. This list has been compiled from various sources, including the American Academy of Dermatology.

Question 23

Surfactants

Answer 23

Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Reduce tension between the skin and the product; increase the ability of cosmetic products to spread; can act as cleansing agents, foaming agents, and emulsifiers to create stable mixtures of oil and water, and more. Work by becoming infused in both water and oil mixtures. Play many roles in cosmetic formulations and are some of the most versatile.

Types of Surfactants

Detergents: The main types of surfactants; are used primarily in cleansing products. Are the agents that cause cleansers to foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup, and debris from skin’s surface. Refer to Figure 6–5 (left image). Examples: ammonium laureth sulfate, cocomidopropyl betaine, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.

Emulsifiers: Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix; surround particles, allowing them to remain evenly distributed throughout. Refer to Figure 6–6 (right image). Without emulsifiers, oil and water in products would separate into layers. Two types of emulsifiers: oil-in-water (o/w; keep oil drops mixed in water; used in hydrating products, like light lotions and serums) and water-in-oil (w/o; keep water drops mixed in oil; used in rich moisturizers, like night creams). Examples: polysorbate, potassium cetyl sulfate, cetearyl alcohol.

Question 24

Delivery Systems

Answer 24

Delivery Systems
Category: Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Used to distribute a product’s key performance ingredients into the skin once it’s applied.

Types of Delivery Systems
Vehicles: Carrying bases and spreading agents necessary for the formulation of a cosmetic. Carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective. Examples: emollients, silicones, water.

Liposomes: Microscopic hollow, fluid-like spheres (like bubbles) filled with performance ingredients to encapsulate and protect them. Bilayer structure mimics cell membranes, allowing for easy penetration beyond stratum corneum. Bring key ingredients to targeted depth of the skin and slowly release them. Liposomes also protect the quality and integrity of performance ingredients.

Polymers: Chemical compounds formed by a number of small molecules. One use of polymers is in delivery systems. Used in advance vehicles that release ingredients onto skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate. Examples: hydrogels, microsponges.

Question 25

Preservatives

Answer 25

Preservatives
Category: Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Prevent bacteria, fungi, molds, and other microorganisms from living in a product. Also extend shelf life of a product and offer protection from chemical changes that can adversely affect the product.

Types of Preservatives
Traditional: Include formaldehyde-releasers and parabens. Some chemical preservatives remain controversial due to potential of irritancy and other health concerns. Examples: butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, imadozolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, Quaternium-15.

Organic acids and natural alternatives: Available for use as preservatives; typically combined together in a product to provide a wide range of protection from the growth of bacteria and fungi. Examples: phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, sorbic acid.

Antioxidants: Extends the shelf life of a product and reduces the rate of oxidation in formulas. Examples: BHA (synthetic) butylated hydroxyanisole, BHT (synthetic) butylated hydroxytoluene, citric acid.
Chelating agents: Ingredients added to cosmetics that boost the efficacy of preservatives. Work by breaking down cell walls of bacteria and other microorganisms. Examples: disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA.

Question 26

Fragrances

Answer 26

Category: Functional Ingredients
Purpose: May be added to mask a formulation’s unpleasant natural smell, neutralize the smell, or improve consumer’s experience and use of product.
Types of Fragrances
Synthetic fragrances: Created by combining chemical ingredients in a laboratory. Will be listed simply as fragrance.
Natural fragrances: Botanicals comprise the basic elements of natural scents in skin care product formulations. Essential oils are highly concentrated plant oils used for their natural aromas. Aromatherapy is derived from the ancient practice of using natural plant essences to promote health and well-being.

FOCUS ON: Aromatherapy
In the practice of aromatherapy, when essential oils are inhaled through the nose, aromatic molecules are carried through the lining of the nasal cavity via tiny olfactory nerves located in the roof of the inner nose. They may be applied to pulse-points or mixed with a carrier oil or cream used in massage or a facial mask. Whether inhaled or applied topically, researchers believe that essential oils can help influence changes in physical, emotional, and mental health. For estheticians interested in the practice of aromatherapy, it’s very important to first check with your state board regulations to determine if it falls within your scope of licensure. Additional training and education is required as well because essential oils are extremely volatile and can cause adverse effects (e.g., allergies), including burns, when used incorrectly.

Question 27

Colour agents

Answer 27

Category: Functional and/or Performance Ingredients
Purpose: As functional ingredients, they enhance visual appeal. As performance ingredients, they add color to makeup products.

Types of Color Agents
Certified colors: Subject to FDA batch certification and include synthetic organic dyes, lakes, and pigments. Synthesized mainly from raw materials obtained from petroleum. Listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic) or FD&C (food, drug, and cosmetic). Lakes: Insoluble pigments made by combining dye with an inorganic material.

Noncertified colors: Organic compounds primarily from mineral, plant, or animal sources. Although not subject to FDA batch certification requirements, they are still considered artificial colors. When used in cosmetics or other FDA-regulated products, they must comply with all labeling requirements.

Question 28

THICKENERS,pH ADJUSTERS,AND SOLVENTS

Answer 28

Category: Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Added to products to give a specific consistency or to help suspend ingredients that are hard to mix into a product. Derived from various sources such as lipids, emulsifiers, polymers, minerals, and synthetic ingredients. Examples: carbomers, carnauba wax, gelatin, silica, stearyl alcohol, xanthan gum.

pH Adjusters
Category: Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Also called buffering agents; stabilize products and prevent changes in pH. Acids and alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products. Examples: acetic acid, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate.

Solvents
Category: Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Added to product formulation to help dissolve other ingredients. Examples: alcohol, polyethylene glycol, water.

Question 29

botanicals

Answer 29

Category: Performance Ingredients
Purpose: Botanicals can provide many benefits to support the health, texture, and integrity of the skin, including healing, soothing, and brightening. Many botanical ingredients also provide antimicrobial and antioxidant benefits.

Botanical ingredients originate from a plant, including herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, leaves, and seeds. Composition varies: extracted using a solvent, different parts processed, dried and ground into powder, squeezed or pressed for juice or oil. Examples: The list is endless. Additional details listed throughout the chapter.

Question 30

INGREDIENTSFOR EXFOLIATION

Answer 30

Category: Performance Ingredients
Purpose: Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells on the skin’s outermost surface. Helps skin appear brighter and allows for other skin care products to be more effective.

Types of Mechanical Ingredients for Exfoliation: Also referred to as physical exfoliation; ingredients used to polish away dead cells from the skin’s surface. Gentle massage actions loosen dead surface skin cells to be sloughed away. Examples: beeswax, ground nuts and seeds, jojoba beads, magnesium crystals, oatmeal, rice bran.

Types of Chemical Ingredients for Exfoliation: Chemical agents used to dissolve dead skin cells on the surface and the intercellular matrix that holds them together (desmosomes). Smooths the skin; also helps brighten overall skin tone and improve conditions such as acne.

Enzymes: Provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface to make skin softer and smoother, and to help maintain the hydration level of the epidermis. Examples: bromelain (pineapple), papain (papaya), pumpkin, pancreatin (beef by-products).

Alpha hydroxy acids: Naturally occurring acids derived from fruit, nuts, milk, or sugars. Can be synthetically produced. Water soluble and dissolve “glue” holding dead skin cells together. Brighten skin, smooth surface, and aid in cell turnover and collagen production. Examples: citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid.
Glycolic acid: Smallest molecular structure; has the ability to penetrate deepest of all AHAs. Products with high concentrations should be used with caution, especially on thin or sensitive skin.
Lactic acid: One of the most popular AHAs. Larger molecular structure, gentler, and potentially less irritating.
Mandelic acid: Largest molecular structure, very gentle; effective to improve overall skin tone and texture; helpful in treating oily and problematic skin due to natural antibacterial and sebum-regulating properties.
Beta hydroxy acids: Salicylic acid is most common BHA found in skin care products. Works by dissolving the bond between cells in epidermis so dead skin cells can slough off. Salicylic acid is oil soluble and has antibacterial and anti-Inflammatory properties. Certain botanicals are high in natural salicylic acid. Examples: meadowsweet, willow bark.
Retinol: A vitamin A derivative; when applied, it does not induce immediate redness or irritation. Visible sloughing may not be seen for several days after application. Amount of retinol in products will vary, with higher concentrations available through licensed skin care and medical professionals.

Question 31

LIGHTENERS ANDBRIGHTENERS

Answer 31

Category: Performance Ingredients
Purpose: Brightening ingredients provide and maintain a natural radiance and glow to the skin. Botanicals are popular source of brightening agents. Lightening ingredients are used to improve discoloration in the skin (hyperpigmentation). They help return skin back to its normal, healthy color. Also known as melanin suppressants or tyrosinase inhibitors. Examples: azelaic acid, bearberry, hexylresorcinol, kojic acid, licorice, vitamin C.

Hydroquinone is proven to be one of the most effective skin lightening ingredients available, but also controversial due to health concerns. Classified as a drug in the U.S. Up to 2% concentrations are available OTC, with higher concentrations available by prescription only.

FOCUS ON: Controversial Ingredients
Controversial ingredients used in products include the surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate; preservatives, including parabens and formaldehyde-releasers; the lightening agent hydroquinone; color agents; nanoparticles; and plasticizers called phthalates.
Scientific research and testing continue to determine potential side effects from using certain chemicals. Some concerns are valid, while others are not yet proven. There are many rumors, and incorrect information is prevalent on the Internet. Estheticians and consumers need to research and verify facts from reliable sources to determine what true concerns there may be.

Question 32

NUTRITION,HEALING, ANDREJUVENATION

Answer 32

Category: Performance Ingredients
Purpose: When applied topically, ingredients that provide vital nutrients and hydration to the skin also play role in healing and repair. High-tech ingredients also reduce inflammation, stimulate metabolic processes, and help restore skin to healthy state while preventing further damage.

Types of Ingredients
Humectants, hydrators, and hydrophilic agents: Ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface. Examples: algae extract, aloe vera, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, honey, sodium PCA.

Antioxidants: Among most effective ingredients for all skin types and conditions; help to protect the skin from free radicals and the damaging effects of pollution, stress, UV rays, and the strong blue light waves emitted by LED screens on smartphones and computers. Examples: alpha lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, green tea, resveratrol, pomegranate, vitamins A, C, & E.

Vitamins: Provide essential nutrition for preventing and improving the signs of aging and other skin disorders. Examples:
Vitamin A: Potent antioxidant ingredient, protecting against UV damage and slowing down signs of aging. Composed of two parts: provitamin A carotenoids and retinoids. Choosing best form of retinoid for each client is imperative. (retinoic acid and retinol)
Vitamin C: Performs a variety of functions, including stimulating collagen, smoothing texture, brightening and evening skin tone, reducing inflammation, and enhancing protection against UV exposure. (ascorbic acid, ester of vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate)
Vitamin E: Main function is to protect against UV damage, strengthen skin’s natural barrier, heal and repair tissue, and prevent moisture loss.
B vitamins: Also known as pantothenic acid. Alcohol form of vitamin B5 is called panthenol; when applied to and absorbed by skin, it converts into pantothenic acid, which has natural abilities to deeply hydrate, soothe, heal, and regenerate skin (vitamin B3)
Vitamin K: Essential in aiding body’s process of blood clotting. When topically applied, it can help reduce swelling and bruising of the skin. Is recommended by physicians after surgical procedures. Can improve appearance of stretch marks, spider veins, and scars. Also popular in eye area products.

Question 33

NUTRITION,HEALING, ANDREJUVENATION
cont. 
minerals
peptides
ceramides

Answer 33

Minerals: Needed by the skin for optimal health and function. Also provide therapeutic benefits when applied topically. Examples: copper, magnesium, zinc, selenium, silica, sulfur, silver, gold (see textbook for benefits of each).

Peptides: Short chains of amino acids; the building blocks of proteins. In skin care products, many peptide ingredients are used to help reinforce proteins naturally occurring in the skin. Can smooth lines and wrinkles, brighten skin tone, repair barrier function, increase firmness and hydration, reduce swelling under the eyes, and provide antimicrobial effects to treat acne lesions. Examples: palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl-tripeptide, acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl glutamyl heptapeptide.

Ceramides: In skin care products, restore moisture, reinforce the skin’s natural barrier, and help protect it against harm from foreign elements. Replenish natural lipids. Examples: sphinogsine, sphinganine, phytosphingosine, ceramide EOP, ceramide AP.

Question 34

NUTRITION,HEALING, ANDREJUVENATION
cont.
healing botanicals
probiotics

Answer 34

Healing botanicals: Botanical oils and stem cell extracts have become increasingly popular in product formulations because they provide additional benefits for ultimate healing and repair.

Botanical oils: Rich in essential fatty acids (EFAs), promote healthy cell membranes and barrier function. EFAs help cells stay fluid and flexible and also create an antimicrobial barrier against the elements. Two kinds of EFAs: linoleic acid (omega-6 fatty acids) and alpha-linoleic acid (omega-3 fatty acids). Cannot be manufactured by the skin and must be obtained topically or through diet.
Plant stem cells: Naturally occurring botanicals extracted from meristems of plants. Have been proven to protect skin stem cells from UV-induced oxidative stress, inhibit inflammation, neutralize free radicals, and help reverse the effects of photoaging. Can assist in increasing production of human skin cells and collagen by delivering potent nutrients to the skin. Can be derived from several sources, and the list continues to grow.

Probiotics: Topically applied, they are considered one of the latest beauty breakthroughs, especially for skin prone to acne, rosacea, and eczema. Act to balance and retain healthy bacteria on the skin while combatting harmful bacteria. Strengthen the skin’s barrier function while promoting a healthy immune system. Can also help to decrease sensitivity and contain anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Examples: Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus ferment, Bifidobacterium longum.

Question 35

NUTRITION,HEALING, ANDREJUVENATION
cont. 
POLYGLUCANS AND BETA-GLUCANS
GLYCOPROTEINS
GROWTH FACTORS

Answer 35

Polyglucans and beta-glucans: Used to enhance the skin’s defense mechanism and stimulate cell metabolism; are hydrophilic; help preserve hydration, collagen, and elastin by forming a protective film on skin. Beta-glucans help reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating formation of collagen.

Glycoproteins: Also called glycopolypeptides; yeast cell derivatives that have been found to enhance moisture content, immune response, and cellular metabolism, which boosts cellular oxygen uptake.

Growth factors: Also called cytokines; protein ingredients that regulate cellular growth and proliferation to promote skin tissue repair and regeneration. Play an important part in healing and maintaining a healthy skin structure, including firmness and elasticity. Multiple sources; can be derived from human cells grown in a laboratory as well as nonhuman sources like plants.

Question 36

Sunscreen ingredients

Answer 36

Category: Performance Ingredients
Purpose: Sunscreen ingredients help prevent ultraviolet radiation (UV) from harming the skin.
Types of Ingredients
Chemical: Chemical ingredients are organic (carbon-based) compounds that work by absorbing UV rays into the skin, changing them to heat, then releasing them from the skin. May cause irritation as well as an increase in existing brown spots, discoloration, and cell damage. Vary in protection from specific UV rays. Examples: avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, homosalate.

Physical: Physical ingredients, also called mineral sunscreens, are inorganic (without carbon) mineral compounds that physically reflect or scatter ultraviolet radiation. Naturally provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Typically preferred sunscreen ingredients for sensitive or reactive skin, as well as inflamed conditions like acne and rosacea. Examples: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide.

Question 37

Desquamation

Answer 37

Skin natural shedding process
Stratum Corneum
New cells replaced from lower stratums – cell turnover
Average 28 days – lifestyle, age and health vary

Question 38

treatment protocol for lipid dry skin

Answer 38

Use Cleanser and toner for DRY skins
Do NOT use harsh abrasive exfoliants
Extreme care with peels
Minimal use of steam
Use non-setting masks
Massage with a high emollient slip cream
Complete facial with an occlusive cream
HOMECARE:  
Avoid artificial ingredients and fragrance
Minimal sun exposure

Question 39

treatment protocol for oily skin

Answer 39

OILY SKIN
Use cleanser and toner for Oily Skin
ONLY use mask for Oily skin on Oily areas
Do NOT use harsh abrasive exfoliants
Moderate use of the steamer
HOMECARE:
Do NOT wear drying agents in the sun
If acneic – avoid products fragrance and colour

Question 40

treatment protocol for PERMANENT DIFFUSED REDNESS

Answer 40

Use cleanser and toner that contains no fragrance or colour
Avoid extreme HOT and COLD
Do NOT use harsh exfoliants
EXTREME CARE with chemical peels (if at all)
Avoid extended use of steam (minimal)
Avoid alcohol based toners
Avoid using drying masks
Avoid dilating the capillaries
HOMECARE:
Use products WITHOUT fragrance and colour (artificial)
NO AHA’s for home
Avoid hot, spicy, caffeine, alcohol
Minimal sun exposure - SPF

Question 41

what are extractions

Answer 41

Refers to the removal of dead cells, sebum, bacteria, and other debris from the skin’s follicles

Question 42

Desincrustation

Answer 42

refers to the process of softening the skin and sebaceous impaction by applying a chemical that helps liquefy the sebum, reducing hard solid plugs to a softer consistency

Question 43

General Rules for Extractions

Answer 43

Always wear gloves
Do not extract for over 10 minutes
Keep skin pulled taut during extractions
Proper pre-soften the skin
Use a toner/antiseptic after extractions
Do not use AHA products after extractions

Question 44

what are humectants

Answer 44

they are moisturizing agents that draw and lock in moisture from the air
ex) Hyaluronic acid , glycerin, urea, AHAS, salicylic acid

Question 45

what are occlusive

Answer 45

barrier that docent allow moisture to come out
Occlusives are primarily oil-based. Examples include:

petroleum jelly
dimethicone
bath oils
Occlusives are particularly useful for dry skin and hair. They may also help with the treatment of eczema.