Midterm Flashcards
Functional Ingredients
Do not affect the appearance of the skin but are necessary to the product formulation. They can act as vehicles that allow products to spread, give products body and texture, and give products form; lotion, cream, or gel. Common functional ingredients: water, emollients, surfactants, delivery systems, preservatives, fragrances, color agents, thickeners, pH adjusters, solvents.
Performance Ingredients
Cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin. Sometimes referred to as active ingredients. Active ingredient is an official term used in the drug industry to indicate ingredients that chemically cause **physiological changes.
Products that do not contain any water are
called anhydrous.
These include oil-based serums, silicone serums, and petrolatum-based products such as lip balms. In addition, aloe vera is often used instead of water as a vehicle in product formulations.
Effleurage
to soothe and relax nerves of the skin, beginning and end of massage
Petrissage
needing and squeezing, deeply stimulates muscles, nerves and glands
Tapotement
increases blood circulation, tapping
Friction
warms the muscles, Cris-cross motion
Vibration
very stimulating to the skin, only use for a few seconds in one spot
how long is a full European massage
20 minutes
examples of specialized massage techniques
Acupressure: Massage technique derived from Chinese medicine. Consists of applying pressure to specific points of the face and body (acupressure points) to release muscle tension, restore balance, and stimulate chi (life force; energy).
Shiatsu: A form of acupressure; the Japanese technique of using acupressure massage points to relax and balance the body. Many motor points on the face and neck are acupressure points. The standard pressure point technique is to pause briefly for a few seconds over the motor points using light pressure. It is also used on the scalp.
Pressure point massage: Similar to acupressure. On each point, movement is repeated three to six times with a three- to six-second pause on each point. Move point to point from the top to the bottom of the face using light inward pressure at each point and lifting to slide to next point.
Aromatherapy: Uses essential oils mixed with an emulsion or oil and applied to skin during massage movements; oils promote mental relaxation and treat skin in numerous ways.
Manual lymph drainage (MLD): Uses gentle, rhythmic pressure on the lymphatic system to detoxify and remove waste materials more quickly. It reduces swelling; used before and after surgery. It is a very light touch.
What is the definition of massage
Massage is a manual or mechanical manipulation achieved by rubbing, kneading, or other methods that stimulate metabolism and circulation.
what is an aestheticians scope of practice regarding areas of the body to massage
An esthetician’s massage services are commonly limited to certain areas of the body (e.g., face, neck, shoulders, décolleté), depending on your state’s scope of practice.
Therapeutic massage (deep tissue and manual lymph drainage) should be performed by licensed massage therapists who specialize in these areas.
Many body treatments such as back facials or wraps are performed by the esthetician without massage, only the application of products.
massage contraindications
Massage contraindications include contagious diseases; inflamed acne; sunburn, windburn, irritation, severe redness; sensitive skin; open lesions, cuts, sores, abrasions; skin disorders; severe, uncontrolled hypertension; and *uncontrolled diabetes.
what is the difference between cosmetics and drugs?
what are COSMECEUTICALS
cosmetics improve appearance, drugs CAUSE ACTUAL PHYSIOLOGICAL CHANGES
The term **cosmeceutical has no meaning under the law. The professional skin care industry created this term as a bridge between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, or drugs.
It can be used in many ways, but in general refers to professional skin care products and makeup that include pharmaceutical-grade ingredients. This pertains to higher concentrations, grade, and purity of active agents.
FDA regulations for cosmetic labeling
State that cosmetic companies must list the company’s name, location, or distribution point as well as all the ingredients in the product.
Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, starting with the ingredient having the highest concentration and ending with the ingredient having the lowest concentration.
A fragrance must be listed as fragrance, but the particular ingredients used for the fragrance need not be listed.
FDA requires that all cosmetic labels include a list of ingredients using standardized INCI names for each ingredient. INCI is an acronym for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient and the names are allocated by the American Cosmetic Association, Personal Care Products Council and are used internationally. The adoption of INCI names ensures that cosmetic ingredients are consistently listed, using the same ingredient name from product to product, which allows customers to easily compare products.
Difference between irritant and allergen
In general, symptoms of an irritant reaction include burning, while itching is usually a sign of an allergic reaction. Additional symptoms: inflammation of the skin, blisters, hives, or rashes. The eyes may swell, puff, or produce tears.
Name the sources that cosmetic ingredients can be derived from.
Natural sources, including plants, vitamins, or animals. Ingredients can also be synthesized in a lab using chemical compounds.
What is the difference between noncomedogenic and comedogenic ingredients?
Noncomedogenic ingredients will not clog pores. Comedogenic ingredients tend to clog pores.
What has to be done to a product formulation in order for it to be labeled unscented?
More ingredients have to be added to mask and neutralize the natural smell
water
performance and functional
-vehicle, solvent
emollients
Functional and/or Performance Ingredients
Purpose:
As a functional ingredient, help place, spread, and keep other substances on the skin.
As a performance ingredient, lubricate the skin’s surface and guard the barrier function. Emollients in products are one of the most common performance ingredients. They are made of lipids (substances such as fat, oil, or wax), both natural and synthetic. They lie on top of the skin and prevent dehydration. Emollients may be very rich or light in consistency.
Types of Emollients
Oils: When formulated into cosmetics, vary in density, fat content, and heaviness; come from different sources, two most common:
Mineral sources: Oils from the earth; come from highly refined and purified petroleum sources. Nonreactive and biologically inert; can be used with no added preservatives. Examples: liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum.
Botanical sources: Oils from plants; vary in fatty acid content and heaviness. Examples: coconut oil and palm oil (two of the fattiest and heaviest oils), argan oil and hemp seed oil (light, less comedogenic).
Silicones: Group of oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin. Also act as vehicles in some products. Excellent protectants. Add a silky, non-greasy feel to products. Examples: cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone.
difference between
fatty acids
fatty alcohols
fatty esters
Fatty acids: Lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats; non-irritating; more like oils. Examples: caprylic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid.
Fatty alcohols: Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen; not drying; wax-like consistency. Examples: cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol.
Fatty esters: Produced from combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols; easily recognized on labels because they almost always end in -ate; often feel better than natural oils and lubricate more evenly. Examples: glyceryl stearate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate.
DID YOU KNOW? Botanical oils vary in fatty acid content and heaviness. Many estheticians refer to comedogenic ratings to guide them in selecting botanical oils for certain skin types. There are a few rating scales available on the Internet, which may differ slightly because they are often updated. Use Table 6–2 to compare comedogenic ratings of common oils. This list has been compiled from various sources, including the American Academy of Dermatology.
Surfactants
Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Reduce tension between the skin and the product; increase the ability of cosmetic products to spread; can act as cleansing agents, foaming agents, and emulsifiers to create stable mixtures of oil and water, and more. Work by becoming infused in both water and oil mixtures. Play many roles in cosmetic formulations and are some of the most versatile.
Types of Surfactants
Detergents: The main types of surfactants; are used primarily in cleansing products. Are the agents that cause cleansers to foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup, and debris from skin’s surface. Refer to Figure 6–5 (left image). Examples: ammonium laureth sulfate, cocomidopropyl betaine, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.
Emulsifiers: Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix; surround particles, allowing them to remain evenly distributed throughout. Refer to Figure 6–6 (right image). Without emulsifiers, oil and water in products would separate into layers. Two types of emulsifiers: oil-in-water (o/w; keep oil drops mixed in water; used in hydrating products, like light lotions and serums) and water-in-oil (w/o; keep water drops mixed in oil; used in rich moisturizers, like night creams). Examples: polysorbate, potassium cetyl sulfate, cetearyl alcohol.
Delivery Systems
Delivery Systems
Category: Functional Ingredients
Purpose: Used to distribute a product’s key performance ingredients into the skin once it’s applied.
Types of Delivery Systems
Vehicles: Carrying bases and spreading agents necessary for the formulation of a cosmetic. Carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective. Examples: emollients, silicones, water.
Liposomes: Microscopic hollow, fluid-like spheres (like bubbles) filled with performance ingredients to encapsulate and protect them. Bilayer structure mimics cell membranes, allowing for easy penetration beyond stratum corneum. Bring key ingredients to targeted depth of the skin and slowly release them. Liposomes also protect the quality and integrity of performance ingredients.
Polymers: Chemical compounds formed by a number of small molecules. One use of polymers is in delivery systems. Used in advance vehicles that release ingredients onto skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate. Examples: hydrogels, microsponges.
