Midterm 2 Flashcards
Primary Functions of the skin: 6
Sensation
Protection
Heat regulation
Excretion
Secretion
Absorption
Skin type: 1
Determined genetically
Skin Conditions:1
Caused by external factors
Massage: 1
Manual or mechanical manipulation achieved by rubbing, kneading or other methods that stimulate metabolism and circulation
Benefits of Massage: 10
Relaxation
Stimulation
Improved metabolism
Helps muscle tone
Cleansing
Exfoliation
Reduces puffiness
Produces absorption
Relieves tension
Sense of well-being
Massage contraindications: 9
Contagious disease
Inflamed acne
Sunburn/windburn
Sensitive skin
Open lesions, cuts, sores
Skin disorders
Severe uncontrolled hypertension
Uncontrolled diabetes
Cancer
What massage can estheticians not perform:
Therapeutic massage/ deep tissue
5 main massage movements
Effleurage – continuous stroking
Petrissage – stimulation- kneading, pinching
Tapotement – fast tapping
Vibration – rapid shaking
Friction – rubbing technique
How long are massages in treatment :
10-20 mins ‘
What is important to do during massage: 3
Maintain consistent flow
Don’t break contact
communicate with client- pressure
Benefits of professional Masks: 7
draws impurities out of pores
Clears blemishes
Tighten and tone
Hydrate
Nourish
Calm
Rejuvenate
Microdermabrasion: 2
Machine based exfoliation
Uses crystal spray or diamond tips to gently polish dead skin cells
Crystal Microdermabrasion: 4
Spraying high grade micro-crystals across face through hand piece, and vacuumed off simultaneously
corundum powder, aluminum oxide
Messy and requires additional cleanup
Respiratory hazard
Crystal-Free/ Diamond tip microdermabrasion: 2
Diamond tip applicator that gently polishes dead skin
Same results with less clean up
the treatment: microdermabrasion:2
Offered alone or part of a facial, or advanced treatments
Drying effects- serums, masks, hydration can be added after
what must be done while performing microdermabrasion: 2
Performed in stretched skin- action zone
To avoid skin damage and have optimal results
factors of the number of passes of microdermabrasion:4
skin type
Skin condition
erythema
toleration
Technique of microdermabrasion: 5
Cross-hatching method
Horizontal, vertical and diagonal directional applications
2 passes
Used to complete treatment quicker
Fewer passes for sensitive areas/sensitive skin
Factors of aggressive microdermabrasion: 3
Higher vacuum
Time in contact with skin
More passes
Endpoint of microdermabrasion:
Erythema/redness
When to use microdermabrasion: 2
Those who cannot tolerate acids
Surface exfoliation
Microdermabrasion used to diminish: 6
Sun damage
Pigmentation
Open and closed comedomes
Fine lines and wrinkles
Enlarged pores and coarsely textured skin
Stimulate cell metabolism and blood flow
Contraindications and precautions for microdermabrasion: 13
Recent cosmetic surgeries, laser, chemical peels, dermabrasion
Injects/fillers
Retin-A, prescribed exfoliants
Allergies/sensitivities to products/ingredients
Pregnancy
Herpes
Hyperpigmentation tendencies
Rosacea/acne
Infectious diseases
Open sores/lesions
Sunburn/irritation
Fragile skin
Photosensitizing medication
What should clients avoid after microdermabrasion:6
Sun exposure
Sweating
Scrubs
Rubbing
Depilatories/waxing
Chemical exfoliation
microdermabrasion machine contains and how to clean: 5
Motors- internal
Hoses – wiped down
Filters- gets replaced
Hand-pieces – wiped down
Motors and hand-pieces must be dry
Crystal microdermabrasion use and safety 4
Only use recommended crystal
Don’t over use crystals
Crystals should flow on skin surface only
Avoid breathing in, or getting them in eyes/nose
Cleanup and disposal of crystal microdermabrasion machines: 4
Clean while wearing gloves and a mask to avoid contact
Separate containers for used and un-used crystals preferred for safety
Follow directions for disposal and maintenance
Treatment room linens also need to be cleaned and checked for crystals
Extractions: 4
Manually removing comedomes, dead cells, sebum, bacteria, and other debris from follicles
Allows follicles to contract back to regular size
Often only way to expel debris
Sometimes may need lancet – pustules and milia (closed comeomes)
Desincrustation:1
Refers to the process of softening the skin and sebaceous impactions by applying chemical that helps liquify to softer consistency
Desincrustation solutions; 2
More alkaline pH
Applied to oily areas, clogged pores and areas of extraction
On for 10-15 mins
Used with steam
What procedures is desincrustation used for: 3
Extractions
Galvanic current
Suction/vacuuming
General rules of extractions: 6
Always wear gloves
Don’t go over 10 minutes
Keep skin pulled tight
Proper pre-softening of skin
Tone/antiseptic after
No AHA after
High Frequency Machine: 5
Apparatus that utilizes a smooth, repetitive, alternating current (tesla/sinusoidal)
Produces heat
No polarity in effect does not produce chemical changes- no product penetration
Rapid oscillation vibrates water molecules – produces mild heat effect
Creates noise and has distinctive smell
Electrodes: 3
Several kinds of direct and indirect available with unique benefits and features producing specific physiological reactions
Neon/argon gases replace air in the tubes as
As electricity passes they emit visible light
Neon gas; light colour and use: 2
Pink, orange or red light
Sensitive skin and aging skin
Argon gas; light and use: 2
Blue or violet light
Normal-oily skin and acne prone skin
When to use high frequency: 2
After extractions
Over product- but will not penetrate
Effects of high frequency: 6
Antiseptic and healing effect from ozone
Stimulates circulation
Helps oxygenate the skin
Increase cell metabolism
Helps coagulate and heal from sparking
Warm and relaxing effect
Contraindications: for high frequency 10
Couperose
Inflamed
Pacemaker
Metal implants
Heart issues
High blood pressure
Braces
Epilepsy
Clients who are pregnant
Body piercings waist up
Guidelines for high frequency: 2
Avoid metal
Ground fingers to electrode before applying and removing
Indirect High frequency effects: 4
Creates regenerating action
Increase blood flow
Great for skin lacking firmness and tone
Stimulating to dry skin
Maintenance of high frequency: 4
Clean electrode with soap and water
No alcohol on electrode
Wipe only glass end
Don’t break or damage electrode
Ultrasound Technology: 3
Ultrasound/sonic refers to frequency above range of sound audible to human ear
Uses non-invasive sound waves
Based on high-frequency oscillation produced by metal spatula-like tool
When to use Ultrasound: 3
Product penetration
cellulite reduction
Cleanse and exfoliate from vibrations through water medium
Viable choice for clients with sensitive skin and rosacea- nonabrasive nature
Ultrasound effects: 5
Penetrates deep- stimulates tissue, increased blood flow and promotes oxygenation
Lower the frequency the deeper the penetration
Cellulite- through heat manipulation of tissue and
lymphatic movement
Heat created, vibration in cells stimulates circulation, metabolism and lymph drainage
Heat damage stimulates collagen production
Ultrasonic; sonophoresis: 1
Process where device sends waves through skin to assist with product penetration
Contraindications of ultrasonic: 9
Open/unidentified skin lesions
Heart conditions
Pacemakers/implants
Epilepsy
Pregnancy
Advanced diabetes
Cancerous lesions
Anyone under doctors care
Metal
Best practices and safety considerations for ultrasonic: 2
Maintain constant movement on moist skin to Avoid excessive heat build-up and unstable cavitation
Caution on fragile/thin skin
Spray for vacuum machine: 3
Beneficial in calming and hydrating the skin
Can be used to apply toner
Attached to vacuum machine
Contraindications for spray machine :1
Respiratory issues
Safety for spray machine: 3
Do not allow to drip into eyes, mouth, ears or down neck
Do not leave solution in spray bottle overnight
Only use in well-ventilated room
Vacuum: 2
Suction is beneficial to remove impurities and stimulate skin
Perform machine-aided massage
Vacuum machine- 2 main functions: 2
Used after desincrustation and before extractions
To stimulate the dermal layer, lymphatic and blood circulation
What are the attachments for the vacuum machine: 2
Ventouse
Glass or plastic
Vacuum machine contraindications: 6
Couperose
Dilated capillaries
Open lesions
Rosacea
Inflamed
Loose skin- caution
Vacuum machine safety: 5
Do not hold still over area
Clean ventouse soap and water/process
Disinfect machine
Filter in hose needs to be changed frequently
Store ventouse in protective package
When to use vacuum machine: 2
Deep pore cleaning- after desincrustation with steamer, before extractions
Sluggish skin- after exfoliation, before serum/mask
How to move vacuum across face: 1
From center out towards lymphs
Chemical exfoliation: 4
Process of removing excess accumulations of dead skin cells from surface with superficial peeling , exfoliation and desquamation
More significant results
Produce chemical change
Come in many formulations and strengths \
Basic treatment protocol for chemical peels: 4
Varies depending on product line
Applying product
Neutralizing
Removing
Acids pH; 1
0-6
Neutral pH; 1
7
Alkaline pH: 1
8-14
Skin average pH:1
4.5-5.5
Cell renewal factor:1
Cell turnover rate
Cell renewal factor for babies:1
14 days
Cell renewal factor for teens: 1
21-28 days
Cell renewal factor for adults: 1
28-42 days
Cell renewal factor for 50 and older: 1
42-84 days
Factors influencing cell renewal factor ;6
Genetics
Natural environment
Medical history
Life style
Personal care
Exfoliation methods
Superficial or light peels: 3
Administered by estheticians
Only removes from stratum corneum
Enzymes, glycolic acid, lactic acid (30% or less)
Medium or deep peels: 2
Administered by physicians
Penetrate deeper into dermal layer
What chemicals are used for deep peels: 5
Resorcinal
Phenol acid – carbolic acid/bakers peel
Trichloroacetic acid TCA
Glycolic acid- 50% or more
Jesseners Peel
General effects of chemical exfoliation and peels: 6
Improves texture, barrier function and moisture retention
Increased cell renewal factor, hydration and
intercellular lipids
Reduced fine lines, wrinkles and surface pigment
Smoother and softer skin
Improved skin conditions
Potential stimulation of elastin and collagen
General precautions: 4
Use sunscreen- Need to be protected from UV to avoid hyper pigment and damage
Can result in burns that may require medical attention and cause scars
Follow instructions
Perform patch test
What is the aftercare for chemical peels: 8
Next 24-48 hours
Avoid sun exposure
Scrubs
Rubbing
Pulling dead skin
Depilatories and waxing
Benzoyl peroxide
Exfoliation/glycolic products
Contraindications of chemical peels: 13
Recent cosmetic procedures, laser, chemical, dermabrasion
Injects and fillers
Skin exfoliating topicals
Allergies/sensitivities
Pregnancy
Herpes
Hyperpigmentation tendencies
Rosacea/ acne
Infectious disease
Open sores/lesions
Sunburn/irritation
Photosensitizing meds
Other contraindicated drugs/meds
What is an enzyme peel: 2
Proteolytic in nature
Work to digest keratin in dead skin cells on surface
Forms of enzyme peel: 2
Ready to use mask
Powder with liquid activator
Ingredients of enzyme peels: 4
Bromelain
Papain
Pancreatin
Trypsin
Wen to use enzyme peel: 4
Once every 1-2 weeks
With clinical facial
Prepare for advanced treatment
Not prior to chemical peel
Consideration for treatment of enzyme peel: 6
Skin type
Sebaceous gland activity
Skin conditions
Philosophy of sun exposure
Cosmetic and product use
Any acne products/retinols
Effects of enzyme peel: 5
Superficial and temporary
Refreshed dewy complexion
No in-depth clinical changes
Very light erythema/redness
Minimal tingle
Best practices of enzyme peel: 3
Eyewear for client and tech
Some areas may process sooner – may need spot removal
Prepare to remove at endpoint of application to avoid over processing
AHA peels:4
Alpha hydroxy acids
Mild acids that come in different percentages and pH levels
No peeling or flaking
Exfoliate and dissolve
What does AHA do:2
Penetrate and loosen bond between cells
Stimulate production of intercellular lipids
What kinds of acids can AHA contain and where is it from: 6
Glycolic acid- sugar cane
Lactic acid – milk
Tartaric acid- grapes
Malic acid- apples
Citric acid – citrus
Mandelic acid – bitter almond
BHA peels: 5
Beta hydroxy acids- under same premise of AHA
Better suited to dissolve oil
Primarily for oily skin and acne
Usually stronger than AHA
Slight flaking and peeling
What does BHA contain: 2
Salicylic acid – anti-inflammatory properties
Clients allergic to aspirin cannot use
When to use AHA peels:5
Home care regimen to prepare skin and jumpstart process
Maintenance- montlhy peel
Graduated peeling system
Clients cleared for this level of peeling
Those who want faster results
When to use BHA peels: 5
Same as AHA, but added products specifically for oily skin
Acne and oily
Lower strength and work up
Implemented according to goal
Maintenance to maintain results
Best Practices for AHA and BHA peels: 8
Explain outcomes and realistic goals
Choose type based on skin condition and goals
Eyewear
Barriers to corners of eyes and nostrils
Aware of sun exposure
Stinging and tingling during application- fan or tap to cool down
During neutralization peel can be temporarily reactive do to rehydration
BHA may have residue
What is Jessner’s and TCA peel: 8
Stronger superficial peel
jessners solution- mix of salicylic acid, resorcinal, lactic acid, ethanol
TCA=Trichloroacetic acid
Applies low percentage and fewer layers
Protein coagulation- flaking and peeling
May not be neutralized and stay on face to rinse later
Home care regimen
Starting at lower strength and working up
What are Jessners and TCA peels addressing: 4
Aging
Sun damage
Oily
Acne
Jessner peel use: 3
Primarily for oily and acne and sun damage
Applied in several layers
Once every 3-4 weeks or more
TCA peels use: 3
Aging and sun damage
Applied in several layers
Once every 3-4 or more weeks
Jessener and TCA best practices: 7
Same contraindications as AHA/BHA
Eye wear and barriar cream in sensitive areas
Beware of sun
May have more stinging- use fan to cool
Mild erythema/frosting immediately after
Flaking and peeling- no picking or peeling
Once peel process is complete can return to normal
skin products
What is a designer peel: 3
Yield more targeted results
Additional ingredients may be added
Pigment lighteners, acne ingredients, moisturizers or hydrators
