Method of evaluation

Question 1

What is the objective or purpose of having an evaluation

Answer 1

To determine the fragrance performance in all stages of application before submitting to customers.
Any lack of performance in any stage would have to be addressed by the perfumer or fragrance evaluator to tweak the formulation before subjecting the submission to repeated performance evaluation again

Question 2

Explain the evaluation process

Answer 2

Depending on the application, the process may involve the use of items such as smelling strips, hair swatches, towels, evaluation booths( where temperature, humidity, and brightness can be controlled) to aid in the evaluation. At times, it can be extended to involve trained panelists from company employees and the general public.

Question 3

Evaluation for fine fragrances

Answer 3

Tool of evaluation: smeling strip and human skin

1. dip the smelling strip into the fragrance dosed (~10-15%) in alcohol.
2. evaluate the fragrance profile and keep the smelling strip on a rack or clips for hourly evaluation
3. a perfumer is able to modify or enhance certain accords in different stages of evaporation
4. when a fragrance is more or less completed, the sample is applied to human skin for a more realistic evaluation. The substantivity of the fragrance on human skin is a crucial criteria for the fragrance performance.
5. the fragrance is applied on the skin on the evaluator and subsequently evaluated hourly to understand the fragrance performance and structure
6. an internal panel test is conducted during the final stage to give comprehensive results on the fragrance.
7. a positive result calls for the final submission

Question 4

Evaluation for skincare fragrances

Answer 4

Tool of evaluation: Human skin

1. Dose the required amount of fragrances into the unscented product base provided by the clients
2. Take an initial sniff from the product container to ensure fragrances can mask the base odors.
   - a good fragrance coverage is easily perceivable from opening the receptacle and there are no residual chemical smells coming from the base formulation.
   - a weak or poorly created fragrance cannot work well with the base, thus the scented chemical odors can be detected from the first sniff.
3. applies on human skin and conduct the hourly evaluation as in fine fragrances.

Question 5

Evaluation of hair care fragrances

Answer 5

Tool of evaluation: Swatches, hair scalp / half-head method

1. Dose the required amount of fragrance into the unscented product base provided by the clients
2. take an initial sniff from the product container to ensure that fragrance can mask the base odors
3. The product is dosed in a cup of warm water for evaluating the blooming stage
4. applied on hair swatches to evaluate fragrances profile of all stages of the washing, rinsing, and drying
5. kept on a rack or clips at all stages of the evaluation
6. drying of the hair swatches can either be by natural drying for 24hours or assisted by hair dryers.
7. use the half-head method to evaluate fragrance coverage on the human scalp.

Question 6

When to use hair swatches or human scalp

Answer 6

For perfume brief that requires fragrance substantivity on the hair, hair swatches are used.
Evaluation is done on the human scalp to determine if the fragrance has good coverage on the hair scalp.

Question 7

Important criteria for hair care fragrances

Answer 7

The fragrances must give the impression of cleanliness or conditioning as well as good lingering smell after drying.

Question 8

Evaluation of home care fragrances

Answer 8

Tool of evaluation: booth

1. dose the required amount of fragrance into the unscented product base provided by the clients
2. take an initial sniff from the product container to ensure fragrances can mask the base odors
3. for air care products, place the product in an enclosed space of an evaluation booth.
4. conduct a 10mins interval evaluation from the opening of the booth for blomming and substantivity characteristics,
5. for floor or toilet cleaners, evaluate on wet stage for blomming effects and substantivity on dry stage.
6. Any required modification will be discussed during the evaluation process.

Question 9

Important criteria for home care fragrances

Answer 9

must have a fresh and clean scent.

Question 10

Evaluation of laundry care fragrances

Answer 10

Tool of evaluation: towels

1. dose the required amount of fragrances into the unscented product base provided by the clients.
2. take an initial sniff from the product container to ensure fragrances can mask the base odors
   - important as this is the decision-making stage for customers
3. measure a certain amount of the product in a measured amount of water as prescribed by the client’s in-use method.
4. soak towel for a period of time as prescribed by the client’s in use method
5. evaluate the fragrance profile in all stages pf washing, rinsing, ad drying for blomming and substantivity characterisitcs.
6. towels can be dried naturally or by drying machines

Question 11

Important criteria for fabric softener

Answer 11

blooming and longer-term substantivity of the fragrance and must give a soft and caring impression.