Marking, Cutting and Joining Flashcards
Marking Knife
- marks lines on timber
- Thinner than pencil mark
Try Square
- Used to mark line 90 degrees to an edge
- Can test how square a corner is
Marking gauge
- Draws a line along grain parallel to an edge
- uses a small point called a spur
Cutting gauge
- Uses a small blade to mark across grain parallel with an edge
Mortise gauge
- Similar to marking gauge but has two spurs
- Used for marking mortise and tenon joins
Mitre Square
- Used to mark angles of 45 or 135 degrees
Sliding Bevel
- Used to mark any angle like a protractor
Cross cut saw
- Used to cut across grain
Ripsaw
- Used to cut along grain
Tenon saws
- Used for making straight cuts
Coping saw
- Used to cut curves in thin timber
Handsaw
- General name used for a saw used to cut large pieces of timber
Jigsaw
- Electric saw
- Used for cutting manufactured board
- Fine, medium and coarse blades
Fret Saw
- Electrical saw fixed to a bench
- Used for cutting curves in thin material
- Thin blade moving up and down quickly
Band saw
- Heavy duty electrical saw
- Often fixed to the floor
- Big band shape blade, available in different thicknesses
- Used for cutting curves in timber and manufactured board
Circular Saw
- Heavy duty electrical saw
- Circular blade used for cutting timber
- Can be handheld or mounted to a workbench
- Often used in factories
Types of drills and drill bits:
Drills:
- Hand drill
- Pillar drill
- Portable drill
- Cordless drill
Drill Bits:
- Twist Bits (Timber, metal, Plastic)
- Countersink Bits (Make countersunk shape)
- Forstner Bits (Flat bottomed, smooth sided hole)
- Flat Bits (Fast and Accurate in timber)
- Hole saws (Interchangeable blades allowing for different sized, circular holes)
- Expansive bits (adjustable bits for shallow holes)
File shapes
- Hand
- Flat
- Half round
- Round
- Four square
- Three square
Types of Sander
- Disc sander
- Belt sander
- Orbital sander
- Palm sander
Butt Joint
- Connects two pieces of timber
- Ends are placed together at a corner
- Nailed or Glued
- Sometimes reinforced by corner pieces
e.g. Building Frames
Dowel Joint
- Joins the edges of two pieces of timber
- Corresponding drilled holes are joined with dowels and glue
- Accuracy is essential when drilling holes
e.g. Tables and Chairs
Comb Joint
- Ends of two timbers interlock at 90 degrees with small finger like slots
e.g. doors and floorboards
Dovetail Joint
- Similar to comb but pins and tails are not straight and so are resistant to being pulled apart
e.g. Drawers and Cabinets
Half-Lap Joint
- Two timbers joined together at a corner
- Material is removed from each and they are overlapped
- Reinforced with dowels or nails
e.g. Framing
Mitre joint
- Two timbers joined at 90 degree by cutting them at 45 degrees
- Quite weak so keys are used for reinforcement
e.g. Picture frames
Housing Joint
- T shaped Joint by inserting a timber into a cut channel
e.g. Shelving or Cabinets
Mortise and Tenon Joint
- A joint by inserting a tenon tongue into a mortise hole
- This is a very strong joint
e.g. Table legs
Bridle Joint
- Similar to a mortise and tenon but the tenon is longer and the mortise doesn’t have a top so the tenon can slide in
- Stronger but less attractive than mortise and tenon
e.g. Legs or frames
Corner Halving Joint
- Two interlocking channels in the corner of the timber
- Reinforced with glue or screws
e.g. Frames
Cross-halving Joint
- Constructed in the same way as corner-halving but in the middle of the frame
- Allows internal parts to cross each other
e.g. Strengthening for tables or boxes
Biscuit Joint
- Small slots are cut in the edges of the timbers using a biscuit joiner
- Fibre biscuits are inserted and glued, securing the timbers together
e.g. Tabletops
Kerfing
- Cutting thin slits into timber, evenly spaced apart, allowing the wood to be bent
- Only really works if you can only see one side of the wood
e.g. Guitars
Steam bending
- Timber is placed into a sealed steaming box, allowing it to absorb the hot moisture
- Now it is easer to bend, so is clamped into a former and left to dry out
- Once it is entirely dry, it can be taken out and will stay in its set position
Laminating
- Thin layers of wood called veneers are glued together and clamped together in a former
- Once taken out, they hold their curved shape
- Veneering can also be done through vacuum pressing