main features of coastal transport and deposition Flashcards
TRANSPORT traction
rolled along the sea bed
TRANSPORT saltation
bounced along the sea bed
TRANSPORT suspension
small particles carried by waves
TRANSPORT solution
dissolved chemicals in the water, chemical change (limestone and chalk)
swash
body of water pushing up the beach after a wave has broken
backwash
body of water pushing down the beach after wave reaches highest point
fetch
length uninterrupted water over which waves can be generated
how are waves formed?
wind blows over ocean waves-friction occurs- energy=waves. stronger winds=greater friction
constructive waves
long and wave height <1m -breaking waves low levels of energy and spill onto beach-swash quickly absorbed by beach- sediment thrown increases by breaking waves accumulates in ridges/berms. backwash has little power to move sediment=beach!